Resetuj wyszukiwanie
Via Francigena - part 2Via Francigena - part 2
Edytuj trasę

Via Francigena - part 2

kwietnia - lipca 2024
  • Carmel Carlsen
Having finish the first half of the Via Francigena at Grand Saint Bernard Pass (GSBP) in 2023, I'm returning to Europe to complete the second half of that Pilgrimage from the Aosta Valley (just 14 km from GSBP), in the Italian Alps, to Rome. Czytaj więcej
  • Carmel Carlsen

Lista krajów

  • Watykan Watykan
  • Włochy Włochy
  • Katar Katar
  • Australia Australia
Kategorie
Wędrówki, Podróż w pojedynkę
  • 17,8kprzejechane kilometry
Środki transportu
  • Lot16,7kkilometry
  • Pieszy-kilometry
  • Wędrówka pieszo-kilometry
  • Rower-kilometry
  • Motocykl-kilometry
  • Tuk Tuk-kilometry
  • Samochód-kilometry
  • Pociąg-kilometry
  • Autokar-kilometry
  • Samochód kempingowy-kilometry
  • Karawana-kilometry
  • Samochód terenowy-kilometry
  • Pływanie-kilometry
  • Wiosłowanie/Rzucanie-kilometry
  • Motorówka-kilometry
  • Żeglowanie-kilometry
  • Łódź mieszkalna-kilometry
  • Prom-kilometry
  • Statek wycieczkowy-kilometry
  • Koń-kilometry
  • Narciarstwo-kilometry
  • Autostopem-kilometry
  • Cable car-kilometry
  • Śmigłowiec-kilometry
  • Boso-kilometry
  • 57ślady stóp
  • 90dni
  • 1,0kzdjęcia
  • 764lubi
ObserwujKalendarzDzielićLista postanowień
Najpierw najnowszy
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    9The Great Pumpkin in actionSaints Pietro and Paolo Church in BollengoEntering into PiveroneView from my accommodation tonight

    Day 6: Ivrea to Viverone

    28 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I had the most incredible meal last night. It was a tasting menu with pasta as the star. I made it through the first eight courses, all small servings (anchovies, three types of sliced cured pork, vegetables in tomato sauce, blue cream cheese on celery, baked cornmeal, beets, an eggplant dish with some small frittatas, and a really refreshing shaved radish dish) but, I could not eat anything more and had to skip the made on-site pasta! I left Ivrea early, but not before I gave the castle a quick once over (what I could see from the outside) and checked out the cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta). The cathedral was pretty dark with only very minimal lighting - luckily, there was natural light coming in from the high windows. Honestly, I felt lucky that it was even open before 8 am (though it is Sunday here). I managed to find the light switch for the crypt for Saint Gaudentius (the first bishop of Novara), but not until after I had walked around in there with my phone torch, and then I managed to get some photos of the beautiful art work from the 12th century. It rained the entire walk today, which has not bothered me anywhere near as much as it did last year. Now that I have the Great Pumpkin, I'm not stressed about keeping my front pockets dry, and the rain wasn't hard. The Way today (24.59 km) was more rural; trailing through small villages, along pathways around farm houses, and through vineyards. It really was quite lovely. My only complaint is that it got cold. Again, I had a hike to get to my accommodation, and again, it was worth it. I saw two VF Pilgrims today and could only exchange "buen camino" as we had no common language and met up with a young person who is doing the Cammino di Oropa over the next three days. She was lovely. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    4My view this morning
    2My view this morning4Only 880 kms to Rome!Oratorio di San Rocco in Cavaglia2A VF info stop. Unfortunately, closedSan Michele Arcangelo Church in CavagliaLa Santa Vergine di OropaCastello Rondolino in CavagliaThese could be heronsA lovely rest stop. They are everywhere along the WayCanali Cavour2

    Day 7: Viverone to Santhià

    29 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke this morning and no rain! What a difference a day makes. There were some clouds, but it was mostly a sunny walk (19.01 km) through woodland, tree lined roads, open roads (dirt, stones and tar), tree bordered fields, even one canal (Canali Cavour), and more serious agricultural properties as I got closer to Santhià. As my accommodation didn't start breakfast until 9:30 am, I was very kindly driven ("no need for a seatbelt") to a pasticceria so that I could eat something in the morning. However, I only had a croissant and coffee for breakfast, and it really made a difference to my stamina, and my daily food supplies couldn't cover the difference. I am exhausted! However, I got into Santhià in the early afternoon, so I made a beeline for my accommodation, and after a refreshing shower and change; I attempted to visit the church. No luck! I couldn't get in! I was disappointed as Saint Agata is the patron Saint of those who have recovered from breast cancer, and apparently, the images of her story are quite compelling. One funny story; I'd washed out my things and put them on the line in the sun. When I went to check on them, my undies were gone! A really lovely lady in the same compound had taken them by mistake! She apologised and invited me for coffee. Which I would have had if I had known the church would be locked! I'm currently sitting outside a bar having a lovely beer. Oh, and a bonus: I got two mandarins, obviously just off the tree, from a little fruit shop as I was walking along. One last thing; I saw a lot of pilgrims today, all going in the opposite direction. I can only assume they are doing the Cammino di Oropa. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    2Saint Stefano's crypt in the church in Santhià
    Beautiful mosaics in Church Collegiata of Saint Agata in Santhià2What a beautiful alter4What a ceiling!Naviglio di Ivrea near Santhià2Recrossing Canali Cavour2Baptismal font in the church at San Germano VercelleseDome and organ at San Germano Vercellese churchThe organ with a bit more detail1Walking on the main road4A Coypu in the Naviglio di IvreaNaviglio di Ivrea near Vercelli

    Day 8: Santhià to Vercelli

    30 kwietnia 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The most positive thing I have to say about today is that the terrain was mostly flat and that the weather was terrific. The most appropriate word to use to describe the walk (27.9 km) would be monotonous. At one point, I abandoned the Way and took to the main road so that I could avoid rambling through yet more farmland - which shaved a good few km off the length of the walk (about 30 km). The farm houses along the way were of no structural interest, and you can only take so much of tilled earth fields or water soaked paddocks before you are over them. Funnily enough, I had toyed with the idea of taking the train from Santhià to Vercelli because of how spent I'd been the day before. I'm not saying I wish I had, as there were some real highlights to the day, but I am saying that if you were to take the train, you wouldn't be missing much. I met a really lovely couple in the village of San Germano Vercellese, and while we were chatting in the park, two pilgrims doing the VF in reverse came by. Their end point is Lausanne. Now for the highlights: unbelievably, the church was open this morning before 8 am! I was so glad I checked on my way out of town. Again, I had to help myself to light up the crypt (Saint Stefano), and it was worth seeing. The next two highlights happened when I was walking on the main road: I saw what I believe is a marmot as the tail was thin (I now know this to be a Coypu) swimming in the Naviglia di Ivrea, and I startled a snake in the grass on the roadside! It was about 1/2 a metre in length and may have been a barred grass snake, which is non venomous, but it set my heart pounding! No photos, I'm afraid. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    6
    My accommodation. I even have a little balconyPaul the Apostle churchSaint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick2Basilica of Saint AndreaThe Magna Carta (?)Cathedral of Saint Eusebio22Darling little wine bottles in my hotel fridge2

    Day 9: Vercelli - rest day

    1 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    I've taken my first rest day, and as far as I'm concerned, it's was a day late. I walked five days last year on the VF and then took a rest day, which seemed a little wimpy, so I thought I would see how far I could go this time around before I needed a break and I've come to the conclusion that it's only six days of walking! Vercelli is a terrific place to stop for an extra day - it's a very attractive city. I didn't do a great deal of walking as it was raining, and I wasn't willing to share the Great Pumpkin with this world. It's May Day here, and I was treated to the town band in a square nearby, and the bell tower behind my accommodation tolled the most delightful tune this morning. I then popped into a church (Paul the Apostle) and sat through mass - there was the most beautiful singing; even a hymn I knew! After that, I visited a most beautiful church (Saint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick), the Basilica of Saint Andrea (the first Abbot is recorded at 1226!) and they appear to have a copy of the Magna Carta on display! My last church was the Cathedral of Saint Andrea. I gave up after that as the rain got too heavy. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    2A whimsical display in a shop window in Vercelli
    2A tower just outside PalestroSome erosionYou see these wonderful water fountains everywhereTorrents Agogna, just outside of NicorvoMy Hospice is right next to this bell towerThe small church at Nicorvo

    Day 10: Vercelli to Nicorvo

    2 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I awoke this morning to heavy rain. Luckily, it was pretty much stopped by the time I left. I still wore the Great Pumpkin as the forecast was for rain all day, which it did on and off. Despite the weather, the walk (26.66 km) was extremely pleasant and over mostly flat terrain. I have never been in an environment where there is so much water - there are water channels and canals (not large ones) everywhere you go. I met another Australian today who is doing the VF on his bike, but he can only do so for two weeks. I'm spending my first night in legitimate pilgrim accommodation, a donativo (Ospitalità Madonna del Patrocinio e San Terenziano)! It has everything a pilgrim could want (except WiFi), and the heater is excellent. There is one other pilgrim here also, but she disappeared soon after I arrived. I'm sure we'll get to chat at dinner as there is only one place to eat in town. Some highlights from the day: walking for ages on a raised road (which gave me a wonderful view) and seeing two darling little two carriage local trains go by. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    4
    64Santuario Madonna del Campo5La prima pellegrina at Madonna del Compo4The darling little local train2Love the clock!In MortaraThe church in Mortara2The church in Mortara2Subdiramatore MortaraAmazing door in the church in Remondo2There are three rabbits in the photo.

    Day 11: Nicorvo to Garlasco

    3 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The forecast promised rain pretty much all day, and it was raining before 6 am. But as I was leaving town with the church tower bell tolling at 8 am, the sky was relatively clear, and it only got better as the day progressed - ending in beautiful sunshine. Today's walk (30.26 km) was very similar to yesterday. Though there did seem to be a lot more trees surrounding the fields and waterways. When I entered the church in Mortara, the organist was practising (video attached)! It was lovely. Then I went on to cause a mild sensation in the fruit shop and also the tobacconist when I told them I was Australian. I saw lots of birds, a frog, some rabbits, and two of what I now know to be Coypu (the thing I thought was a Marmot the other day). One was swimming, and the other was sitting on the bank, but they were too quick for me to get a photo. I'm staying again tonight in "proper" Pilgrim accommodation (another donativo). This time, it is run by the local council. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    4
    San Rocci Church in Gropello Cairoli. I love the staircase to the organ2Roggia CastellanaFuime Ticino42Fuime TicinoThis fluffy stuff, from cottonwoods, was everywhere.6I had to cross this bridge!22Resti del Ponte CopertoA sample of the stonework in the Basilica4Thomas and I

    Day 12: Garlasco to Pavia

    4 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another great day of walking (26.68 km). The Way was quite diverse. It started with farmland and canal walking and ended with a combination of riverside (Fuime Ticino) and woodland walking. It's Saturday here and so there were quite a few people about along the riverside, even some fishermen. I should have mentioned that I've spent the last two nights (Nicorvo and Galasco) with a group of four Italian pilgrims who are walking the VF from Santhià to Santa Cristina. They think it will take them about ten years to complete the whole thing! I also met a French pilgrim, Thomas, who is on his way to Rome and who had actually braved Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass (five metres of snow). He said that the way down from the Pass to the Italian side was terrible and not marked. I am so glad that I didn't attempt it. I also met two Belgians on their bikes. They say it will only take them fifteen days to reach Rome! I saw lots of rabbits today, some ducks, and another coypu (but again, it was too quick for a photo). Finally, the Basilica San Michele Maggiore in Pavia has the best stonework I have ever seen. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    Sant Agostino Cathedral in Pavia. Quite an impressive dome
    The cathedral catching the setting sunA street in PaviaA street in Pavia2Naviglio PaveseThe church in San LeonardoCottonwoodsThe church door in San GiacomoMountains in the distance, but no snowThe church in Santa Margherita28My accommodation tonight8The wind rustling through the wheat2Belgioioso CastleA statue in Villa Trespi Liberty garden4Archangel MicheleThe castle and fence that encloses the garden under renovation

    Day 13: Pavia to Belgioioso

    5 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I was lucky enough to find a cafe open at 7 am this morning and was able to have two macchiatos and two croissants before leaving Pavia. The walk today wasn't long (17 km), but the entirety of the Way was almost fully exposed roadside walking. Thankfully, it wasn't a problem for me as though the sun was shining and warm it really wasn't hot. I will admit my feet are a little sore from all that bitumen. I got to Belgioioso just after one pm and am so glad that I had a chance to look around as there is a castle here! I could not get inside as it is being renovated, but the outside was impressive enough. The highlight of my day was going into Sant Michele Arcangelo church, braving the sacristy, and asking the Priest for a "timbro" (stamp) for my credential. Not only did I get a stamp, but he also gave me a holy card. It literally brought tears to my eyes. The VF is a big deal here in Italy. I get shout outs and well wishes everywhere I go. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    2Olona river2484The church at Camporinaldo222Castello di Chignolo PoThe overgrown pathway2Lambro river42

    Day 14: Belgioioso to Orio Litta

    6 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow! What a day! I'm exhausted. Thankfully, there was not as much road walking today, which was a relief. I've come to the conclusion that my replacement boots are not as cushioned as the original pair as my feet are sore every day. I set out early (just before 7 a.m.) as I had a long way to go (31.06 km). I love Italy, I'm so impressed that I could find a cafe open at 6 a.m. I even got a latte this morning. It was a cool and overcast day - perfect walking weather. It did sprinkle, on and off, so it wasn't a problem until about an hour before I got to Orio Litta when the rain would not stop. I caved about 3 km out and put on the Great Pumpkin, and I'm glad I did as the next part of the Way was tall and overgrown vegetation! At least the Great Pumpkin stopped me from getting completely soaked. I saw another coypu today and managed to get a photo. I've been trying to get a photo of the storks, but they are very elusive. Oh, and I saw another castle - I think it's privately owned!
    P.S. I should have mentioned the "Mama Mia" is an actual expression here. I've heard it twice in the last few days - in connection with me being Australian!     Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • Carmel CarlsenCarmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2
    2Time pieces on houses seems to be a thing
    2Villa Litta Carini4The rear of the villaThe French pilgrims10Waiting to take the ferry4The Po river4Our landing point!Our pilot2The obstruction!2My first deer26The church at Calendasco42San Brigida in Piacenza. I've seen some incredible baptismal fonts in Italy4

    Day 15: Orio Litta to Piacenza

    7 maja 2024, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night, I was in Pilgrim accommodation with two French pilgrims who did not share their names - even after I explained that I was Australian (i.e. not British) - their end point is Lucca. I had the second best meal I've had since I've been in Italy that night at the "Sports" bar. It was another great day along the Way today. The section itself was 25.28 km, but about 4 km of that was by a small boat, the "ferry", along the mighty Po river! Almost all of the walking route today was roadside, but thankfully, the first few kms up to the Po river offered an alternative through nice dirt and grass lanes. Just after we, the French women and I, got off the Ferry, two large fallen trees blocked the path (which was raised above the fields below), and we had to climb over and under the trunks and branches to make our way forward! Just after I got through that mess, I saw my first deer! The photo I took is not great, but at least it is something. Not long after that, the rain started again, and the Great Pumpkin was called into service. Piacenza is quite a large place. I will do some exploring tomorrow. According to my guidebook, there are 309 km between Echevennoz (where I started) and Piacenza, and it's 685 km to Rome! I'm getting there. Czytaj więcej

    Zobacz tłumaczenie
  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Strona główna
  • O nas
  • Śledzenie grupy
  • Wciśnij
  • Warunki
  • Prywatność & Cookies
  • Centrum pomocy
  • Odcisk