Via Francigena - part 2

abril - julho 2024

Having finish the first half of the Via Francigena at Grand Saint Bernard Pass (GSBP) in 2023, I'm returning to Europe to complete the second half of that Pilgrimage from the Aosta Valley (just 14 km from GSBP), in the Italian Alps, to Rome. Leia mais

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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 1
- sexta-feira, 19 de abril de 2024 18:10
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 8 m
- Austrália Alexandra Canal -33.936451, 151.16585633°56’11” S 151°9’57” E
6 11
Sydney Airport
19 de abril de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
I've checked in, and my bag was a very disappointing 8.1 kg! I'm blaming all of the warm clothing that I'm taking for the mountains. Luckily, that part of the journey is first, so I'll be able to send a lot of that home. I'm nervous and tired, as I did not sleep well last night, and have my fingers crossed that I will sleep well on the plane. I have added a photo of the Vegvisir, a norse compass or way pointer, and a tiny metal box with three angels that will keep me on the right path and protect me as I'm walking.Leia mais
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Viajante Beautiful, stay safe and happy Carmel.
19/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenThanks Jenn
19/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteIm loving you rocking my shirt 😆 those angels are certainly there on the way with you 😇 but your strength and sense of adventure will carry you as well ❤️
19/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenBig hug Marian ❤️
19/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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11 curtidas
Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 2
- sábado, 20 de abril de 2024 04:59
- 🌙 22 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- Catar Hamad International Airport 25.26925, 51.60830225°16’9” N 51°36’30” E
5 2 2
Doha Airport
20 de abril de 2024, Catar ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
I'm sitting in a smoking room at Doha airport. The 14 hour flight was surprisingly good, and I did manage to get the most sleep I've ever had on a flight. It's just after 5 am here, and the sun has not yet come up. As you can imagine, the airport is fairly quiet. There is a waterfall that is enclosed in massive glass arches, surrounded by real trees. A lot of people are enjoying the space.
P.S. I just ordered a latte - not bad, but I did need to add a sugar. They also offered a "Spanish Latte"; it comes with condensed milk. Perhaps I should have given that a go?
P.S. check out the amazing information kiosk in my pictures; I scanned my boarding pass and it tells me my gate!Leia mais
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ViajanteEmirates and Economy, I like your praise. Do I understand you did o/n there?¿?
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenI flew with Qatar. I haven't tried Emirates yet.
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteDoha. Of course. Did U o/n there
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenNo. Just a four hour wait for my flight to Milan. I'll have two nights there before I start my pilgrimage. I'm still hoping a ticket will become available for The Last Supper while I'm in Milan
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteOh Carmel we are the same but nothing all booked out 😢
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 2
- sábado, 20 de abril de 2024 19:46
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 136 m
- Itália Torrente Seveso 45.487472, 9.20071845°29’15” N 9°12’3” E
7 2
Milan
20 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
I've made it safe and sound to Milan. My second flight seemed to pass in no time at all. I caught some wonderful sights of snow-capped mountains on the few occasions that the clouds cleared away. I decided not to sleep on my second flight to make sure that I was tired enough to get a good nights rest tonight. That may have been a mistake as I'm sitting here eating dinner feeling a little shaky. I managed to hop on the wrong train from the airport to the city, and I also managed to lock myself out of my hotel safe (staff had to help me regain access). But I was able to recover both mishaps without too much drama. I heard from the BBC tonight that it has been snowing on the Alps. That may impact my ability to get to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Also, I've had no luck getting tickets to see the Last Supper. I'm pretty heart broken. As I never give up, I will try again tomorrow in person.Leia mais
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ViajanteHi Carmel, glad you arrived safely and hopefully all your mishaps are out of the way and things improve. If you get your see The Last Supper it is definitely a very memorable experience. I look forward to your daily footprints.
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenThanks Alex. I don't think I'll be as lucky as you were to get your tickets the night before. But I'll do my best tomorrow to see if I can get in.
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteHey Carmel, send me your email and I will send you the email where I purchased my ticket.
20/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 3
- domingo, 21 de abril de 2024 21:14
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Altitude: 137 m
- Itália Torrente Seveso 45.488098, 9.20119845°29’17” N 9°12’4” E
4 8 2 4 6 4 2 2
Milan
21 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
I exhausted myself today walking all over Milan. Thankfully, I'm travelling most of the day tomorrow on train and bus, so I should be rested to start my pilgrimage the day after. I was lucky enough to get a ticket to see the Last Supper, and it was, as expected, the highlight of the day. The tour guide really did enhance the entire experience. I was mistaken; I thought the French had super cute little cars. Well, the Italian's, if Milan is anything to go by, beat them hands down. I've added just one photo so that you can see what I mean. I really have a lot to say about today, but I'm too tired to make the effort. Rest assured, it was memorable and included a lot of churches. I have to add that the hotel I'm staying at has free beer on tap, Heineken, I'm enjoying one in my room right now.Leia mais
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ViajanteMilan is such an interesting city. Glad you were able to see the Last Supper. It is such a memorable experience.
21/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenIt really was Alex. There were so many highlights to today
21/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Viajante WoW
21/04/2024Responder
Carmel CarlsenI recently watched a TV program on this building and it was a real treat to see it today
21/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 4
- segunda-feira, 22 de abril de 2024 15:22
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Altitude: 1.248 m
- Itália Echevennoz 45.808322, 7.24177945°48’30” N 7°14’30” E
2 1 2
Day 0: Milan to Echevennoz
22 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C
The day started out wet and cold. I managed to catch two trains and two buses today without a hitch - I am very pleased. The only mishap was a broken clip on my backpack. It broke this morning on my way out of the room (I'm obviously not used to having the backpack on yet). Fortunately, I have a crocodile clip that will keep the strap in place. That stap secures my water supply! Thankfully, the rain cleared up as I was making my way through the Aosta Valley (amazingly beautiful. I can'twait to begin walking). The mountains were misty, and as we approached Aosta on the first bus, I saw a lot of snow on the peaks. It was cold in Aosta, and now that I am in Echevennoz, where I am staying tonight; it is freezing! I've decided against taking on Grand Saint Bernard Pass as the forecast for tomorrow is overcast and for Wednesday rain. I have no snow walking experience in good weather, so I have no confidence at all in taking on the mountain in less than ideal conditions at this time of year.Leia mais
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ViajanteBbrrrr. Good call Carmel
22/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel Carlsen🫠
22/04/2024Responder
ViajanteWise decision. Stay safe
22/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenThanks Jenny
22/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 5
- terça-feira, 23 de abril de 2024 17:44
- ⛅ 8 °C
- Altitude: 581 m
- Itália Aosta 45.739872, 7.32993545°44’24” N 7°19’48” E
2 2 4 2 2
Day 1: Echevennoz to Aosta
23 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
I had the most delicious meal last night in the trattoria a few steps from my accommodation. The meal was cooked by my host Erik's parents. I ate my plentiful and also delicious breakfast to the sounds of Erik playing the accordion (video attached). What a wonderful way to start the day. The walk today wasn't long (17.53 km) but descended about 600m. My knees really felt it. The Way started right outside my accommodation and followed an impressive irrigation canal (Ru Neuf) filled with pristine water for quite some time. Then, I made my way down into the valley. It was a beautiful sunny day with the snow capped peaks changing minute by minute as the clouds moved across them. Aosta is a reasonably sized town so I gathered some food supplies for the walk tomorrow, took in some sights and visited both the Cathedral and a smaller church. Three things impress me about the Italian churches I have seen so far: the incredible variety and colour of the marble, the interior and exterior frescoes, and the detailed painting on the ceilings and arches.Leia mais
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ViajanteSounds like a terrific first day. Enjoy your travels
23/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenIt was. I'm tired but happy
23/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteFantastic photos Carmel, just looks a bit cold.🥰
23/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenIt's cold in the morning, and the wind is brisk. But you heat up as you walk and the sun is surprisingly warm.
24/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 6
- quarta-feira, 24 de abril de 2024 08:56
- ☀️ 5 °C
- Altitude: 501 m
- Itália Châtillon 45.75027, 7.62097245°45’1” N 7°37’15” E
2 2 4 2
Day 2: Aosta to Châtillon
24 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C
Today was a long one (30.6 km) and the hardest walk I've done in a long time. I don't mind admitting that I'm sore all over. I literally took the scenic route - there were so many amazing things to see, and I took advantage of every photo opportunity. I'm sure it delayed my arrival, not to mention all the breaks I took, which let me soak in the views and was worth any delay. The Way today ranged from sealed road (a fair bit of that) to goat tracks. Again, I walked alongside an irrigation canal (the Ru Mazod). As you can imagine, there is a good amount of water around here. One bit of excitement: a dog came at me. I must have startled it when I suddenly appeared around the corner. I gave it a fierce stare and said "no" in my bossy voice, and it backed right off - what a relief. Funny, lots of dogs barked at me in France (even a goose had a go), not one dog that I recall barked at me in Switzerland, but here in Italy, the dogs seem to be territorial as well. One last thing; Saint Christopher is a big deal around here!Leia mais
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ViajanteReally fantastic photos Carmel, especially the snow capped mountains.
24/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenI know! I can't stop taking sooooo many photos of them.
24/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteStunning scenery. Remember to let your body ease into your days of walking
24/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenI will Jenny. I'm pacing myself and taking plenty of rests
24/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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19 curtidas
Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 7
- quinta-feira, 25 de abril de 2024 18:20
- ⛅ 10 °C
- Altitude: 390 m
- Itália Verrès 45.66549, 7.692345°39’56” N 7°41’32” E
6
2 2 2
Day 3: Châtillon to Verrès
25 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
A shorter walk today (21.73 km). The guide said it was challenging, and I was finding it easy! I even joked to myself that the end section was going to have to be tough to warrant the designation. Well, truer words have never been spoken! The last 6 - 7 km was an absolute howler. I didn't help myself by going the wrong way up a really steep incline only to have to turn around and retrace my steps to rejoin the Way! What a dill. Not long before I reached Verres, I was telling myself that there was no way this was the original pilgrim route when there was a perfectly flat and reasonable valley below to walk along LOL. I met an Australian this morning, Ann, in Chatillon. She now lives in Mexico and has walked all the way from Santa Maria di Leuca. When I asked why she chose to walk the VF in reverse, she replied that she had started in Rome, hated walking with the sun in her face, and then made her way to Santa Maria di Leuca. I believe she will finish today in Aosta. What a legend! I wore my skirt for the first time today (my standard for Part 1 of the VF). I had my tights underneath but took them off after the first 2 km - it was another sunny day and the sun is warm.Leia mais
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ViajanteOh Carmel. You made me laugh!
25/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel Carlsen😁
25/04/2024Responder
Viajante How serene
25/04/2024Responder
Carmel CarlsenIt was a very beautiful section today
25/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 8
- sexta-feira, 26 de abril de 2024 17:17
- ☁️ 8 °C
- Altitude: 501 m
- Itália Plan de Brun 45.604318, 7.80195145°36’16” N 7°48’7” E
4
4 2 4 1 2 2
Day 4: Verrès to Pont-Saint-Martin
26 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
I woke this morning to a fully overcast sky and light rain. I got to test out my new poncho, which will be known from now on as the "Great Pumpkin" (I'm a Peanuts fan) as that's exactly what I look like with it on. It did the job perfectly, and even though the wind was bracing, I never felt too cold (or hot). Today was one of those perfect walking days (26 km), even with the rain, I was filled with joy all day. There is something magical about the ever moving mist and low-lying clouds around mountains. Oh, and I got to walk in the valley itself and for some time beside the river. Everything was lovely. It was quite a steep hike to my accommodation, but it was worth every step. I listened to the book "A pilgrimage to eternity: From Canterbury to Rome in search of faith" by Timothy Egan, which was recommended to me by Andrew from Victoria whom l walked a little of the VF with last year. We reconnected a couple of days ago, and he's about a week behind me on the VF as he restarted in Switzerland. Anyway, I would highly recommend the book, especially for anyone who was raised Catholic.Leia mais
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Viajante What an encouraging sign ✅
26/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel Carlsen👍
27/04/2024Responder
Viajante Looks chilly
26/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenNot too bad when you are walking
27/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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Carmel Carlsen Via Francigena - part 2
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- Dia 9
- sábado, 27 de abril de 2024 17:13
- ☁️ 11 °C
- Altitude: 264 m
- Itália Ivrea 45.466207, 7.87129745°27’58” N 7°52’17” E
2 2 4 2 2 2
Day 5: Pont-Saint-Martin to Ivrea
27 de abril de 2024, Itália ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
My accommodation last night was wonderful. My host drove me higher up the mountains to a place called Barmet so that I could eat dinner in a fabulous restaurant. The staff drove me back home! I have now left the beautiful Aosta Valley and am in the Piedmont region. Today's walk (26.94 km) was almost entirely joy filled. The scenery was picturesque and the waymarkers plentiful. I was just complimenting myself on not getting off track once, after passing yet another waymarker, when I checked the VF App to see how much farther the end point was, to discover to my horror, I was no where near the route! I backtracked, took a local path, and rejoined the Way! Oh, and it's official; I hate cobblestones! My calves are aching, and my hip is sore! Not to mention my poor feet. Also, it rained again today. A light rain; nothing dramatic - just cold really. The Great Pumpkin is serving me well.Leia mais
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ViajanteOh Carmel! May those cobblestones be gone soon 🤍✨
27/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenI wholeheartedly agree, Brenda
27/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
ViajanteSounds like you had a wonderful night.
27/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
Carmel CarlsenI did. The food was magnificent. And my host's daughter worked there. She was lovely to me
27/04/2024ResponderTraduzir
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