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Via Francigena - part 2
  • Carmel Carlsen
  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 2

Having finish the first half of the Via Francigena at Grand Saint Bernard Pass (GSBP) in 2023, I'm returning to Europe to complete the second half of that Pilgrimage from the Aosta Valley (just 14 km from GSBP), in the Italian Alps, to Rome. Okumaya devam et
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    24Corine22Jean

    Day 21: Cassio to Passo della Cisa

    13 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    What a day. The scenery and the walk (23.28 km) were great. I climbed to a height of 1214m and felt every single step of the descent! My left knee totally packed it in, and by the time I got to the base of the last mountain for that day and the end of the section, I was limping badly. It was then I discovered I would have to walk 2.5 km back down the road to my accommodation for the night. I got to the accommodation to find Corine, the French pilgrim I'd met at Fornovo and the four other French pilgrims that I'd met the night before. One was a doctor, he looked at my knee and, obviously, recommended rest. Honestly, it was that bad I planned on taking a taxi to my next stop, Pontremoli. However, I put on my knee brace and elevated the leg, and reserved judgement for the morning. I saw two snakes today a brown one and a black one. There was a fair amount of mud today, but most of it was avoidable. Oh, and my accommodation last night had no WiFi, and phone reception was almost non-existent.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    24

    Day 22: Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli

    14 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I've crossed over the Apennines! Two things enabled me to make it to Pontremoli today: the first was the knee guard, and the second was my poles. The going was tough as it was a lot of sharp descents that never seemed to stop. My knee felt fine when I woke, so I decided to give the walking (23.51 km) a go. I saw the most perfect church I have seen in Italy to date, at Pass della Cisa. And, I've crossed over into Tuscany (another life dream fulfilled) I really felt a connection to the medieval pilgrims today as I seemed to be walking on some very ancient paths and, it may have been the fatigue, but I really felt disconnected from the rest of the world today as I was walking along, surrounded by the trees with just the path ahead of me, and no signs of civilisation. I'm spent, but fine.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Torrente Verde
    22Fiume Magra

    Day 23: Pontremoli - rest day

    15 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I don't have a great deal to report today as I've done very little and done my best to rest as much as possible. Also, it rained today; which encouraged me to stay indoors. Pontremoli is a lovely medieval township with a castle on the hillside and where the Torrente Verde joins the Fiume Magra. The township name literally means "trembling bridge" as, apparently, the original bridge here did shake. I did try to visit the museum inside the castle, but as I arrived, so did a bunch of rowdy school children, and I decided to give it a miss.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    La Chiesa di San Pietro, Pontremoli
    2Convento Della SS. Annunziata24Pieve di Sorano, Filattiera4242Filetto2Castello di VirgolettaThis darling sign saved me from walking the wrong way21Castello Malaspina di Terrarossa, Aulla

    Day 24: Pontremoli to Aulla

    16 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today was one of the most pleasant walking days I've had since being in Italy - even though it was a long one (33.45 km). The weather was a mixed bag: fog, mist, rain, bursts of sunshine, followed by rain. It seemed to sort itself out by midday with the sun winning. I packed the Great Pumpkin away and didn't get it out again for the rain that started at three (more like a series of sun showers). Not unexpectedly, there was a lot of mud today (not all could be avoided) and very slippery rocks (the moss covered ones being the most treacherous) as I made my way up, down, in and out of lovely woodland, crossed a lot of creeks and more significant waterways and wandered through some really appealing villages. I haven't seen one fish in any of the water I've walked by, and next to; and I've really looked - I'm surprised. I won't say that my knee didn't give me some grief, but it was manageable with the knee brace.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Fortezza della Brunella
    Torrente AulellaCastello di BibolaVecchietto42Can you see the sea?A communal wash roomPonzano Superione22Castello della Brina2Canale LunenseFortezza Castracani2

    Day 25: Aulla to Sarzana

    17 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The way today started tough and steep for about the first 8 - 9 km. It was equal to or harder than any walking I've done in the Blue Mountains. I'm calling Italy the "Land of the Sharp Ascent". Thankfully, it wasn't a long walk (20.54 km), and the descent was much smoother and more gradual than the rise, so my knee didn't complain too much. Naturally, after I opened my big mouth about not seeing any fish, I was treated to an abundance of them today as I approached Sarzana in the clear water of the Canale Lunense! My treat for today is that I'm staying in an old Palace tonight. A Pope has stayed here as well as Napoleon's wife - Josephine, I assume! What a thrill! Oh, and I got my first glimpse of what turns put to be the Ligurian Sea as I came out of the woods behind the township of Ponzano Superiore - that was incredible!Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    243My PalaceIncredible wood carving in the church in SarzanaFortezza FirmafedeFortezza CastracaniRoman amphitheatre at Luni2The Apuan Alps behind CarraraMalaspina Castle

    Day 26: Sarzana to Massa

    18–24 May 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I left Sarzana at 8 am and didn't arrive into Massa until after 6 pm! These long sections (31.8 km) are really making me work hard! It was a brilliant sunny and warm day - a little warmer than I like to walk in, especially when shade is hard to find. The walk today was surprising; it was like walking through the suburbs. Even when I walked along the canal, I was surrounded by houses. One good thing, it was fairly flat - just some climbing and descending at the start and for about the last 8 km. I met up with seven French pilgrims today; a group of four, a single female, and a couple whom I have briefly encountered three times over the past five days (they walk like legends). Massa looks like a really vibrant place, but I'm simply too tired to explore (as was Sarzana). Today's highlight is that I've now seen where Carrara marble comes from! The mountains (the Apuan Alps) from which it is quarried are impressive. Oh, and I also toured (€2) a Roman amphitheatre at Luni. One final thing, I was impressed that the streets of Aventia were paved with marble, then I get to Massa, and the gutter is made of marble - not to mention the dirt mountain road that was strewn with marble!Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Mandarins trees - I wished I was tall enough to take some
    It's the Ligurian SeaCastello Aghinolfi2Fuime Versilia2"Ego"2San Martin church at Ponterosso2A little bamboo forest I walked through2The clear waters of CamaioreTwo of the largest sets of rosary beads I've ever seen

    Day 27: Massa to Camaiore

    19 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A shorter walk today (27.18 km). Most of it was on sealed surfaces, except for brief stints on dirt and rock pathways. The day started with a mountain climb, along the road, which gave me some good views. I also got to walk beside two rivers and enjoy the wonderfully clear water. It was another warm day of brilliant sunshine, and I welcomed every wiff of breeze and every morsel of shade. I have an apartment tonight and was incredibly lucky to find a shop open on a Sunday! I went in there for yoghurt and came out with dinner tonight (including a beer) and ham, cheese, bread, and the yoghurt for breakfast tomorrow. He offered me tastes of everything before I committed; a utterly delightful experience.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Torrente Lucese
    Torrente FreddanaPiazzanoFuime SerchioMy room in Lucca

    Day 28: Camaiore to Lucca

    20 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The Way (29 km) provided a nice change today. For the first 16 km, I walked through woodland and forest on wonderfully non sealed roads and pathways. A light rain started around 10:15 (it only lasted for about an hour), which was welcomed by me as I'd just reached the top of my third mountain for the morning and enjoyed the cool that the rain brought with it. It's surprisingly humid here. The road walking wasn't bad either, and the rain came back, heavier, at around 2 pm and really settled in by 5 pm - which was fine as I was safely in my accommodation by then. So, all in all, it was a very good day.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Saint Michael the Arch Angel church
    2I love how the Italian's can ride with their umbrellaThe wallsThe Basilica of San Frediano2Torre GuinigiSaint Martin's CathedralBeautiful tile workMosaics from the 4th - 5th centuryThe ceiling in Saint Giovanni and ReparataAn illuminated manuscript in the Cathedral museum

    Day 29: Lucca - rest day

    21 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Lucca has really captured my heart. There is something very special about this place. The fact that the "old city" is still entirely encased by walls totally blows my mind. You see many fortified cities in Europe, but I have never seen fortifications so complete (and so maintained). The existing wall dates from the 1500s (the original bulit in the 1200s) and are so thick - everyone who lived here must have felt so protected and safe. Honestly, the word impregnable comes to mind. I did the tourist thing today and walked the 4km of walls. I was told it would take an hour, but it took me most of the day as I would dip back into the town to see some sight of interest - mostly churches. I climbed three church towers and found that my fear of heights has not completely gone! My pilgrim credential got me free entry into the Basilica (San Frediano) and the Duomo (house of God - I love that description): Saint Martin's Cathedral. I'm off to a Puccini concert tonight (Puccini's women); Lucca is his birth place. I feel reinvigorated today and so glad I chose this place for some rest days.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The Labyrinth
    2The tiles in the accommodationInside the walls3Pilgrim wear, apparently2

    Day 30: Lucca - rest day

    22 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I've done the math, and my guidebook tells me that I have walked 589 km from my starting point (Echevennoz), and I now have 405 km to go until Rome. Therefore, I'm officially over 1/2 way! The Puccini concert last night was great. I sat in the front row and made friends with a man from Israel. He's recently been cycling in Portugal. The world is full of the most interesting people. Today, I was a lot more laid back, I barely walked at all. I climbed the Guinigi tower, which has seven oak trees planted at the top, and provides some lovely views of Lucca and the surrounding mountains. I'm sharing a photo of the Labyrinth that is carved into one of the pillars at the Cathedral here. It is a welcome to pilgrims and a symbol of the spiritual path that leads the believer to salvation. I also visited the Via Francigena museum. There was not much there, some good videos, but not much else.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The original city walls from the 1200s2"Please Talk Softly" - who doesn't love a library?I love how the shutters bend at the bottom226San Jocopo Church at Altopascio

    Day 31: Lucca to Altopascio

    23 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was a much shorter walk today (20 km). Other than an extremely short stretch along a dirt path, the entire Way was sealed - I think I'm getting used to it. It was 19 degrees when I set out from Lucca around a quarter past seven, and surprisingly, as I expected it to be a hot day, I don't think the temperature got much more than that. If it did, I didn't really feel much heat. The standouts today were the smell of the jasmin that adorned quite a lot of the fences I walked past and the huge semi trailers that seemed to contuinually pass me along a particular section of the road! I just missed market morning as I arrived into town; all of the vendors were packing up.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Tammy and Alan4Fiume Arno22This is an elevator!2The Cathedral at San Miniato

    Day 32: Altopascio to San Miniato

    24 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today, Tuscany delivered. The Way was mostly on unsealed paths, dirt roads, and, initially, through woodland; it was an absolute pleasure to walk (30.24 km). I encountered seven pilgrims today: two French, two from the USA, Tammy and Alan, and three Italian. All of us, except the Italians, are walking to Rome. The weather was beautiful and a little on the warm side. Who knew? Italy has a carnivorous plant! I thought they were only in South America. Not that I saw one. It was on a sign, but they were in the area, protected, of course, that I walked through today.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2The local constabulary on the beat in San Miniato2A darling little first aid box on the Val d'Elsa322Stephan

    Day 33: San Miniato to Gambassi Terme

    25 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Tuscany delivered again! Certainly, the first six kilometres were along the road, but after that, the Way moved to a dirt and rock pathway called the Val d'Elsa and I was treated to spectacular views and vistas on both sides as I walked up, down and around the hill crests. I encountered 14 pilgrims today; only two, Tammy and Alan, had I met before. All of the others were Italian, except for Stephan, who's German and an incredibly fast walker! Both yesterday and today, I had to climb into town and me being me, I happened to choose accommodation at the highest point in the area! The walk (27.41 km) wore me out, but on the plus side, I have panoramic views! Another great day on the VF.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Madonna and child in the Sanctuary at Pancole4222

    Day 34: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

    26 May–1 Haz 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A change of pace today - suitable for a Sunday. I didn't leave my accommodation until 10 am! It was only a short walk (15.88 km), so I took my time. Don't think I didn't have to work for it, though - there was a lot of climbing and descending, and it was hot! Fortunately, it was a good ratio of unsealed and sealed surfaces. San Gimignano is a massive tourist town and is full of people. The Basilica is impressive, as was the sacred art museum. The Basilica has some of the most beautiful and numerous frescoes I have seen. I'm here in the midst of a cycling event: the "Tuscany Tour".Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2
    22Colle di Val d'ElsaThe home of Italian crystal36Under the algae, the water was crystal clear2Monteriggioni

    Day 35: San Gimignano to Monteriggioni

    27 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Tuscany continues to deliver. A long and rather warm walk today (32.85 km). This section is touted as one of the best of the VF, and overall, it was very pretty. The highlight of the day was walking the Sentier Elsa river trail. The water was aqua, but my camera has not given the colour justice. A very young pilgrim, Louis, who I'd encounter a few days ago, from Switzerland, spoke to me today to let me know how impressed he was with me walking at my age (LOL), he's a darling young thing so I couldn't take offence. I also saw another eight pilgrims on the Way and heaps of bikes participating in the " Tuscany Tour" and had breakfast with two bike pilgrims who will be in Rome in no time at all.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    3The "cells" on the ground floor!
    2Monteriggioni as I was walking awayBeautiful red earthCastello della ChiocciolaCastello della Villa3222La Piramide; a memorial to human efforts to control nature2Coming into SienaThe Siena city wallsSaint Christopher's church2Piazza del Compo

    Day 36: Monteriggioni to Siena

    28 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Another brilliant day of walking (22.79 km) through lots of woodland paths. Again, I encountered a lot of bikes on the "Tuscany Trail" - luckily, they were going in the opposite direction. One charming thing about Monteriggioni; there were horse stalls outside the walls - just in case you arrived on horseback! Oh, and I think my accommodation was part of the old town lockup - there were definitely rooms that looked like cells on the ground floor. It was on the warm side today, but there was plenty of shade , which was a real blessing. I met a young Italian couple who were training for their Camino Frances later on in the year, a sole Italian pilgrim (she is friendly but may be shy) and Philip, from NZ, who had aarn pockets, camps as he walks, has walked from Florence and will be ending up in Lucca - he walks in Italy every year. Siena is lovely, and the old section is huge! My accommodation is right off the Piazza del Compo, which is brilliant and where I'm sitting now, having an Aperol Spritz enjoying the afternoon sun.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4Siena Cathedral
    2Hospital chapel, opposite the cathedralThe back of the cathedral4e Libreria PiccolominiInside the cathedral cryptInside the Basilica di San FrancescoOratorio San BernardinoCollegiata di Danta Maria in ProvenzanoBasilica Cateriniana di San Domenico

    Day 37: Siena - rest day

    29 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The heart, the old city of Siena, is amazing. I've walked around all day, sometimes with purpose, sometimes not, and love the place. Where else but Italy would you carelessly walk down some creepy looking, dimly lit, alleyway (even at night) and be completely charmed (and safe)? The Cathedral is literally awesome in so many ways. Then there are two Basilicas and numerous churches: I fit in as many as I could. And, of course, the views. It's obviously a tourist town and the place is alive with people from everywhere. I took so many photos, so I can only give a very small sample here.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2The Cathedral gilt catching the afternoon sun
    2Ted and KimThe Roman gate, leaving Siena12

    Day 38: Siena to Ponte d'Arbia

    30 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I woke today to a Siena shrouded in a pea soup fog. It had lifted to just above the buildings as I left, but it was still quite thick as I began my walk, and so I was unable to see any of the views as I made my way out of the city. I actually like the fog; it gives me a real sense of closeness to the things in my immediate area. Overall, the day was cooler than it has been, which I enjoyed. The walk itself (27.33 km) was a genuine pleasure as it was up and down the gently rolling hills, through small villages and beside train tracks. I felt a real sense of peace and contentment today as I walked, and it reinforced for me how much walking is my "happy place". Other than the birds and about three bikes, I was on my own right up until I came upon Ponte d'Arbia, where Tammy and Alan arrived as I was having a little rest. We are all at the same accommodation tonight and have just returned from a beer. There is a gentle rain, but all should be gone by tomorrow. I almost forgot; I met a lovely couple from Townsville last night, Ted and Kim. They are travelling around Italy and were the nicest people. It felt so good to speak, so comfortably, with other Australians.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Tammy and Alan
    3Torrente Arbia6241222222Here comes the rain2The church at San Quirico d'Orcia

    Day 39: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'O

    31 Mayıs 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I awoke to another foggy morning. It makes everything look mystical and beautiful. I could mix it up a bit and say that it was a bad day of walking (28.35 km), but that would not be the truth. It was great, up and down hills, by crops and mown grass fields with rolled up hay bales and along winding unsealed roads that appeared to go on forever. There was quite a stiff breeze to keep me cool and a little bit of rain, even some thunder and lightning, but nothing to be concerned about or to detract from the enjoyment of the walk or the places I walked through. I met two Swiss pilgrims from Lausanne (Anna and Gabriel), who started in Siena and will end in Rome, another lone female pilgrim (French, who started in Lucca and is going to Rome), and met Tammy and Alan at the end of the day - everyone seems to walk so much faster then me!Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The beautiful Romanesque Church at San Quirico D'Orcia
    Who doesn't love a trebuchet?The garden at San Quirico d'Orcia3SunsetVignoniThe church at Vignoni was playing recorded monks chanting. It was beautifulThe sign said "climb over" so I did1The two pilgrims I saw today2Radicofani in the distanceThe military band

    Day 40: San Quirico d'Orcia to Radiocofa

    1 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was a hard day. The walk was long (34.07 km), the day was very warm (the strong breeze was a God send), there were only three places to rest (two without shade), the Way seemed to have received the least attention of any so far in Italy, sure the waymarkers were everywhere, but some of the paths were so overgrown that making headway was difficult. The icing on the cake was the 300m climb at the end! I met up with the solo French pilgrim (Claire) I saw yesterday, who I will eat a meal with tonight, and another female solo pilgrim from Korea. Both walked faster than me. The highlight of the day was the military band who played in the town centre this afternoon. What a treat!Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The church at Radiocofani
    2Rocca di Radicofani342San Francesco Church at Acquapendente2Madonna and child in Saint Agostino church Acquapendente

    Day 41: Radicofani to Acquapendente

    2 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I left Tuscany today. Although its incredible charm took a little while to be fully revealed, once it was, after Altopascio, the spectacular countryside exceeded all of my expectations. I have realised another of my life dreams, and I feel truly blessed. The best thing about being in a tourist town is that the shops open early, so I was able to get something to eat on a Sunday, before I left town. The day started with an 8 km descent, then turned into a lot of roadside walking, which ended with the now familiar climb into town (total walk 25.98 km). It rained for most of the day. It was a light but persistent rain, and so the Great Pumpkin was brought into play - I see it as a real asset on the road as I have a very high profile LOL. There was an alternative walk to the section today, but it added an extra 8 km to the length. I'd been warned not to walk along the regular route along the road by Claire (the French pilgrim) as it has a reputation amongst the French as being particularly dangerous. I reasoned that as it was Sunday, there wouldn't be any trucks, and there would be less traffic - that proved to be correct. I had a late lunch with Anna and Gabriel, the Swiss pilgrims, and we are both at the same accommodation tonight. One final thing; I'm seeing a lot of road signs for Rome and am beginning to feel like I'm getting close!Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The Cathedral at Acquapendente. Which I didn't get to seeMt first sight of Lake Bolsena222722Saint Christina cathedral11

    Day 42: Acquapendente to Bolsena

    3 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another great day of walking (26.53 km) through farmland (got wet from irrigation hoses twice - the first I've seen in action in Italy), through a small forest, beside woodland and olive groves. The highlight of the day was my first sight, followed by glimpses of Lake Bolsena, as I left the town of San Lorenzo Nuovo. The lake is magnificent. There was a little rain today, and I had put on the Great Pumpkin again. For the past few days, I have been feeling quite strong (like I could walk anywhere), but today, I surprised myself as I didn't seem to have any energy. I put it down to lack of food, even though I'd had a pretty good breakfast, and got two sandwiches and a can of coke (something I haven't drunk since my daughter told me it had 17 teaspoons of suger in it) and that seemed to do the trick. The cathedral here at Bolsena is for Saint Christina of Bolsena (with Saint George - apparently, it's not ok for women to have a church solely dedicated to them). Her crypt is in the church. There were also some of the best frescoes I have seen.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2The goldfishCorpus Domini church11The Sanctuary of Our Lady of GraceBasilica of Flaviano

    Day 43: Bolsena to Montefiascone

    4 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today I have arrived in the Sarria of Italy; I am now within 100 km of Rome! I will be interested to see how many pilgrims are on the Way from now on. It was a relatively short walk today (18.5 km). A warm day with blue skues, no rain, but threats of it, and most of the walking on dirt and gravel roads and paths. The highlights of the day were the walk through Turona Wood, the views of the lake as they appeared, some dragon flies, and three gold fish in the water trough at one of the VF rest areas. I have visited three churches so far in Montefiascone, and all were worth the visit.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Saint Andrea church
    The crypt of Saint LuciaFilippini23The sun through the stained glass in the cryptSaint Marguerite cathedralThe fort from the pilgrim towerThe pilgrim tower1Dome detail in the museum3

    Day 44: Montefiascone- rest day

    5 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I don't have a lot to report today. I took my time, ambled around, had a long leisurely lunch, and took everything as easily as I could. Montefiascone is charming and lovely to walk around (and a little hilly). There were some markets in the morning, but I wasn't feeling it. I visited the papal fort, Rocca dei Pai, which had been used by about 36 popes as a Rector Seat from the 1200s to the 1600s. The fort had a really nice structured garden out the front, with some lovely sculptures, magnificent views of the surrounding area, and an architectural museum inside, so I visited that also. Oh, and of course, after I opened my big mouth at Bolsena, the cathedral here is dedicated to a woman (Saint Marguerite). A male does get a mention, but that is all - he doesn't share dual billing.Okumaya devam et

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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Via Cassia
    22MontefiasconeViterbo walls2Stained glass windows in Saint Angelo in Spatha5Gonfalone churchSaint Maria Nuova churchWonderful ceiling in Saint Maria Nuova churchBasilica Cathedral di San LorenzoIncredible tiles in the Basilica52

    Day 45: Montefiascone to Viterbo

    6 Haziran 2024, İtalya ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    It was a steep hike out of the township of Montefiascone followed by a reasonable descent and then walking across fairly flat plains without much shade. I walked upon the Via Cassia (an ancient road that runs from Rome to Florence), which has been in existence since, at least, 154 BC and the remains of which are still intact in this area. The walk wasn't long (20.33 km), and I got off the Way for quite a bit (by accident), and I was really feeling the heat. Despite that, I was very surprised that the temperature was 31 degrees when I arrived in Viterbo! Viterbo is the first township that I have walked into in a very long time that isn't dominated by tourists. It makes a nice change. Like every other place I've visited in Italy, there are a lot of churches and I managed to visit a few. It's cooled down now to a pleasant 28 degrees, and I'm enjoying my aperol spritz in one of the summer frocks I've been carrying along with me.Okumaya devam et

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