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Via Francigena - part 2
  • Carmel Carlsen
Apr – Jul 2024

Via Francigena - part 2

Having finish the first half of the Via Francigena at Grand Saint Bernard Pass (GSBP) in 2023, I'm returning to Europe to complete the second half of that Pilgrimage from the Aosta Valley (just 14 km from GSBP), in the Italian Alps, to Rome. Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 19, 2024
    Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    6The Guy Boyd sculpture at Sydney airport11

    Sydney Airport

    April 19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I've checked in, and my bag was a very disappointing 8.1 kg! I'm blaming all of the warm clothing that I'm taking for the mountains. Luckily, that part of the journey is first, so I'll be able to send a lot of that home. I'm nervous and tired, as I did not sleep well last night, and have my fingers crossed that I will sleep well on the plane. I have added a photo of the Vegvisir, a norse compass or way pointer, and a tiny metal box with three angels that will keep me on the right path and protect me as I'm walking.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    522

    Doha Airport

    April 20, 2024 in Qatar ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    I'm sitting in a smoking room at Doha airport. The 14 hour flight was surprisingly good, and I did manage to get the most sleep I've ever had on a flight. It's just after 5 am here, and the sun has not yet come up. As you can imagine, the airport is fairly quiet. There is a waterfall that is enclosed in massive glass arches, surrounded by real trees. A lot of people are enjoying the space.
    P.S. I just ordered a latte - not bad, but I did need to add a sugar. They also offered a "Spanish Latte"; it comes with condensed milk. Perhaps I should have given that a go?
    P.S. check out the amazing information kiosk in my pictures; I scanned my boarding pass and it tells me my gate!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    72

    Milan

    April 20, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I've made it safe and sound to Milan. My second flight seemed to pass in no time at all. I caught some wonderful sights of snow-capped mountains on the few occasions that the clouds cleared away. I decided not to sleep on my second flight to make sure that I was tired enough to get a good nights rest tonight. That may have been a mistake as I'm sitting here eating dinner feeling a little shaky. I managed to hop on the wrong train from the airport to the city, and I also managed to lock myself out of my hotel safe (staff had to help me regain access). But I was able to recover both mishaps without too much drama. I heard from the BBC tonight that it has been snowing on the Alps. That may impact my ability to get to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Also, I've had no luck getting tickets to see the Last Supper. I'm pretty heart broken. As I never give up, I will try again tomorrow in person.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    On the Milano Stazione Centrale
    On the Milano Stazione CentraleChiesa Parrocchiale di Sant Agostino (across from my hotel)4Beautiful mosaic work in the Sant Agostino church8Bosco Verticale (vertical forest). The trees were there before the residentsMy first real life harpsichord in the Basilica di San Marco2Castello Sforzesco (the Castle of Milan)Ceiling work in a courtyard of the castle4The Last SupperCeiling work in Santa Maria delle Grazie. Where the Last Supper isCeiling work and the dome of Santa Maria delle Grazie6Bumblebee the Transformer4Duomo di Milano. The Cathedral of Milan2Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. An incredible shopping mallThe Needle, Thread and Knot sculpture (the knot is missing from the photo)2There are heaps of these old trams, each decorated differently, all across the city

    Milan

    April 21, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I exhausted myself today walking all over Milan. Thankfully, I'm travelling most of the day tomorrow on train and bus, so I should be rested to start my pilgrimage the day after. I was lucky enough to get a ticket to see the Last Supper, and it was, as expected, the highlight of the day. The tour guide really did enhance the entire experience. I was mistaken; I thought the French had super cute little cars. Well, the Italian's, if Milan is anything to go by, beat them hands down. I've added just one photo so that you can see what I mean. I really have a lot to say about today, but I'm too tired to make the effort. Rest assured, it was memorable and included a lot of churches. I have to add that the hotel I'm staying at has free beer on tap, Heineken, I'm enjoying one in my room right now.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    A Last Supper bronze in the Sant Agostino church
    A Templar cross in the Sant Agostino church2Misty mountains on the way up the Aosta ValleyMisty mountains on the way up the Aosta Valley1The view from my balconyMy accommodation tonight2My room

    Day 0: Milan to Echevennoz

    April 22, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The day started out wet and cold. I managed to catch two trains and two buses today without a hitch - I am very pleased. The only mishap was a broken clip on my backpack. It broke this morning on my way out of the room (I'm obviously not used to having the backpack on yet). Fortunately, I have a crocodile clip that will keep the strap in place. That stap secures my water supply! Thankfully, the rain cleared up as I was making my way through the Aosta Valley (amazingly beautiful. I can'twait to begin walking). The mountains were misty, and as we approached Aosta on the first bus, I saw a lot of snow on the peaks. It was cold in Aosta, and now that I am in Echevennoz, where I am staying tonight; it is freezing! I've decided against taking on Grand Saint Bernard Pass as the forecast for tomorrow is overcast and for Wednesday rain. I have no snow walking experience in good weather, so I have no confidence at all in taking on the mountain in less than ideal conditions at this time of year.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    22A sample of the slate roofs that are everywhere422Aosta Cathedral

    Day 1: Echevennoz to Aosta

    April 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    I had the most delicious meal last night in the trattoria a few steps from my accommodation. The meal was cooked by my host Erik's parents. I ate my plentiful and also delicious breakfast to the sounds of Erik playing the accordion (video attached). What a wonderful way to start the day. The walk today wasn't long (17.53 km) but descended about 600m. My knees really felt it. The Way started right outside my accommodation and followed an impressive irrigation canal (Ru Neuf) filled with pristine water for quite some time. Then, I made my way down into the valley. It was a beautiful sunny day with the snow capped peaks changing minute by minute as the clouds moved across them. Aosta is a reasonably sized town so I gathered some food supplies for the walk tomorrow, took in some sights and visited both the Cathedral and a smaller church. Three things impress me about the Italian churches I have seen so far: the incredible variety and colour of the marble, the interior and exterior frescoes, and the detailed painting on the ceilings and arches.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Ru Mazod2Church door at St. Martin and St. Lucia4The nicest confessional curtain I have ever seenThe front door at San Lorenzo church. Saint Christopher is on the rightDisused train station at Chambave2An abandoned villageCastello GambaThe view from my balcony tonight

    Day 2: Aosta to Châtillon

    April 24, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Today was a long one (30.6 km) and the hardest walk I've done in a long time. I don't mind admitting that I'm sore all over. I literally took the scenic route - there were so many amazing things to see, and I took advantage of every photo opportunity. I'm sure it delayed my arrival, not to mention all the breaks I took, which let me soak in the views and was worth any delay. The Way today ranged from sealed road (a fair bit of that) to goat tracks. Again, I walked alongside an irrigation canal (the Ru Mazod). As you can imagine, there is a good amount of water around here. One bit of excitement: a dog came at me. I must have startled it when I suddenly appeared around the corner. I gave it a fierce stare and said "no" in my bossy voice, and it backed right off - what a relief. Funny, lots of dogs barked at me in France (even a goose had a go), not one dog that I recall barked at me in Switzerland, but here in Italy, the dogs seem to be territorial as well. One last thing; Saint Christopher is a big deal around here!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    6Stained glass in the San Pietro Church Chatillon
    22A wine pressOne of many vineyardsThe Torrente ZerbionThe Dora Baltea2A mural on my accommodation tonight

    Day 3: Châtillon to Verrès

    April 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A shorter walk today (21.73 km). The guide said it was challenging, and I was finding it easy! I even joked to myself that the end section was going to have to be tough to warrant the designation. Well, truer words have never been spoken! The last 6 - 7 km was an absolute howler. I didn't help myself by going the wrong way up a really steep incline only to have to turn around and retrace my steps to rejoin the Way! What a dill. Not long before I reached Verres, I was telling myself that there was no way this was the original pilgrim route when there was a perfectly flat and reasonable valley below to walk along LOL. I met an Australian this morning, Ann, in Chatillon. She now lives in Mexico and has walked all the way from Santa Maria di Leuca. When I asked why she chose to walk the VF in reverse, she replied that she had started in Rome, hated walking with the sun in her face, and then made her way to Santa Maria di Leuca. I believe she will finish today in Aosta. What a legend! I wore my skirt for the first time today (my standard for Part 1 of the VF). I had my tights underneath but took them off after the first 2 km - it was another sunny day and the sun is warm.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4
    4Saint Martin church in Arnad2Echallod bridge412Fort BardGeppetto making Pinocchio2The darling little balcony attached to my room

    Day 4: Verrès to Pont-Saint-Martin

    April 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    I woke this morning to a fully overcast sky and light rain. I got to test out my new poncho, which will be known from now on as the "Great Pumpkin" (I'm a Peanuts fan) as that's exactly what I look like with it on. It did the job perfectly, and even though the wind was bracing, I never felt too cold (or hot). Today was one of those perfect walking days (26 km), even with the rain, I was filled with joy all day. There is something magical about the ever moving mist and low-lying clouds around mountains. Oh, and I got to walk in the valley itself and for some time beside the river. Everything was lovely. It was quite a steep hike to my accommodation, but it was worth every step. I listened to the book "A pilgrimage to eternity: From Canterbury to Rome in search of faith" by Timothy Egan, which was recommended to me by Andrew from Victoria whom l walked a little of the VF with last year. We reconnected a couple of days ago, and he's about a week behind me on the VF as he restarted in Switzerland. Anyway, I would highly recommend the book, especially for anyone who was raised Catholic.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Beautiful Barmet
    2My view this morningSaint Rocco Chapel24Stained glass in the church at Carema (St. Matteo?)2Palm trees!22Snow White and five dwarfs!Castle Sabaudo at Ivrea

    Day 5: Pont-Saint-Martin to Ivrea

    April 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    My accommodation last night was wonderful. My host drove me higher up the mountains to a place called Barmet so that I could eat dinner in a fabulous restaurant. The staff drove me back home! I have now left the beautiful Aosta Valley and am in the Piedmont region. Today's walk (26.94 km) was almost entirely joy filled. The scenery was picturesque and the waymarkers plentiful. I was just complimenting myself on not getting off track once, after passing yet another waymarker, when I checked the VF App to see how much farther the end point was, to discover to my horror, I was no where near the route! I backtracked, took a local path, and rejoined the Way! Oh, and it's official; I hate cobblestones! My calves are aching, and my hip is sore! Not to mention my poor feet. Also, it rained again today. A light rain; nothing dramatic - just cold really. The Great Pumpkin is serving me well.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    9The Great Pumpkin in actionSaints Pietro and Paolo Church in BollengoEntering into PiveroneView from my accommodation tonight

    Day 6: Ivrea to Viverone

    April 28, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I had the most incredible meal last night. It was a tasting menu with pasta as the star. I made it through the first eight courses, all small servings (anchovies, three types of sliced cured pork, vegetables in tomato sauce, blue cream cheese on celery, baked cornmeal, beets, an eggplant dish with some small frittatas, and a really refreshing shaved radish dish) but, I could not eat anything more and had to skip the made on-site pasta! I left Ivrea early, but not before I gave the castle a quick once over (what I could see from the outside) and checked out the cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta). The cathedral was pretty dark with only very minimal lighting - luckily, there was natural light coming in from the high windows. Honestly, I felt lucky that it was even open before 8 am (though it is Sunday here). I managed to find the light switch for the crypt for Saint Gaudentius (the first bishop of Novara), but not until after I had walked around in there with my phone torch, and then I managed to get some photos of the beautiful art work from the 12th century. It rained the entire walk today, which has not bothered me anywhere near as much as it did last year. Now that I have the Great Pumpkin, I'm not stressed about keeping my front pockets dry, and the rain wasn't hard. The Way today (24.59 km) was more rural; trailing through small villages, along pathways around farm houses, and through vineyards. It really was quite lovely. My only complaint is that it got cold. Again, I had a hike to get to my accommodation, and again, it was worth it. I saw two VF Pilgrims today and could only exchange "buen camino" as we had no common language and met up with a young person who is doing the Cammino di Oropa over the next three days. She was lovely.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4My view this morning
    2My view this morning4Only 880 kms to Rome!Oratorio di San Rocco in Cavaglia2A VF info stop. Unfortunately, closedSan Michele Arcangelo Church in CavagliaLa Santa Vergine di OropaCastello Rondolino in CavagliaThese could be heronsA lovely rest stop. They are everywhere along the WayCanali Cavour2

    Day 7: Viverone to Santhià

    April 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke this morning and no rain! What a difference a day makes. There were some clouds, but it was mostly a sunny walk (19.01 km) through woodland, tree lined roads, open roads (dirt, stones and tar), tree bordered fields, even one canal (Canali Cavour), and more serious agricultural properties as I got closer to Santhià. As my accommodation didn't start breakfast until 9:30 am, I was very kindly driven ("no need for a seatbelt") to a pasticceria so that I could eat something in the morning. However, I only had a croissant and coffee for breakfast, and it really made a difference to my stamina, and my daily food supplies couldn't cover the difference. I am exhausted! However, I got into Santhià in the early afternoon, so I made a beeline for my accommodation, and after a refreshing shower and change; I attempted to visit the church. No luck! I couldn't get in! I was disappointed as Saint Agata is the patron Saint of those who have recovered from breast cancer, and apparently, the images of her story are quite compelling. One funny story; I'd washed out my things and put them on the line in the sun. When I went to check on them, my undies were gone! A really lovely lady in the same compound had taken them by mistake! She apologised and invited me for coffee. Which I would have had if I had known the church would be locked! I'm currently sitting outside a bar having a lovely beer. Oh, and a bonus: I got two mandarins, obviously just off the tree, from a little fruit shop as I was walking along. One last thing; I saw a lot of pilgrims today, all going in the opposite direction. I can only assume they are doing the Cammino di Oropa.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Saint Stefano's crypt in the church in Santhià
    Beautiful mosaics in Church Collegiata of Saint Agata in Santhià2What a beautiful alter4What a ceiling!Naviglio di Ivrea near Santhià2Recrossing Canali Cavour2Baptismal font in the church at San Germano VercelleseDome and organ at San Germano Vercellese churchThe organ with a bit more detail1Walking on the main road4A Coypu in the Naviglio di IvreaNaviglio di Ivrea near Vercelli

    Day 8: Santhià to Vercelli

    April 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The most positive thing I have to say about today is that the terrain was mostly flat and that the weather was terrific. The most appropriate word to use to describe the walk (27.9 km) would be monotonous. At one point, I abandoned the Way and took to the main road so that I could avoid rambling through yet more farmland - which shaved a good few km off the length of the walk (about 30 km). The farm houses along the way were of no structural interest, and you can only take so much of tilled earth fields or water soaked paddocks before you are over them. Funnily enough, I had toyed with the idea of taking the train from Santhià to Vercelli because of how spent I'd been the day before. I'm not saying I wish I had, as there were some real highlights to the day, but I am saying that if you were to take the train, you wouldn't be missing much. I met a really lovely couple in the village of San Germano Vercellese, and while we were chatting in the park, two pilgrims doing the VF in reverse came by. Their end point is Lausanne. Now for the highlights: unbelievably, the church was open this morning before 8 am! I was so glad I checked on my way out of town. Again, I had to help myself to light up the crypt (Saint Stefano), and it was worth seeing. The next two highlights happened when I was walking on the main road: I saw what I believe is a marmot as the tail was thin (I now know this to be a Coypu) swimming in the Naviglia di Ivrea, and I startled a snake in the grass on the roadside! It was about 1/2 a metre in length and may have been a barred grass snake, which is non venomous, but it set my heart pounding! No photos, I'm afraid.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    6
    My accommodation. I even have a little balconyPaul the Apostle churchSaint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick2Basilica of Saint AndreaThe Magna Carta (?)Cathedral of Saint Eusebio22Darling little wine bottles in my hotel fridge2

    Day 9: Vercelli - rest day

    May 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    I've taken my first rest day, and as far as I'm concerned, it's was a day late. I walked five days last year on the VF and then took a rest day, which seemed a little wimpy, so I thought I would see how far I could go this time around before I needed a break and I've come to the conclusion that it's only six days of walking! Vercelli is a terrific place to stop for an extra day - it's a very attractive city. I didn't do a great deal of walking as it was raining, and I wasn't willing to share the Great Pumpkin with this world. It's May Day here, and I was treated to the town band in a square nearby, and the bell tower behind my accommodation tolled the most delightful tune this morning. I then popped into a church (Paul the Apostle) and sat through mass - there was the most beautiful singing; even a hymn I knew! After that, I visited a most beautiful church (Saint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick), the Basilica of Saint Andrea (the first Abbot is recorded at 1226!) and they appear to have a copy of the Magna Carta on display! My last church was the Cathedral of Saint Andrea. I gave up after that as the rain got too heavy.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2A whimsical display in a shop window in Vercelli
    2A tower just outside PalestroSome erosionYou see these wonderful water fountains everywhereTorrents Agogna, just outside of NicorvoMy Hospice is right next to this bell towerThe small church at Nicorvo

    Day 10: Vercelli to Nicorvo

    May 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I awoke this morning to heavy rain. Luckily, it was pretty much stopped by the time I left. I still wore the Great Pumpkin as the forecast was for rain all day, which it did on and off. Despite the weather, the walk (26.66 km) was extremely pleasant and over mostly flat terrain. I have never been in an environment where there is so much water - there are water channels and canals (not large ones) everywhere you go. I met another Australian today who is doing the VF on his bike, but he can only do so for two weeks. I'm spending my first night in legitimate pilgrim accommodation, a donativo (Ospitalità Madonna del Patrocinio e San Terenziano)! It has everything a pilgrim could want (except WiFi), and the heater is excellent. There is one other pilgrim here also, but she disappeared soon after I arrived. I'm sure we'll get to chat at dinner as there is only one place to eat in town. Some highlights from the day: walking for ages on a raised road (which gave me a wonderful view) and seeing two darling little two carriage local trains go by.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4
    64Santuario Madonna del Campo5La prima pellegrina at Madonna del Compo4The darling little local train2Love the clock!In MortaraThe church in Mortara2The church in Mortara2Subdiramatore MortaraAmazing door in the church in Remondo2There are three rabbits in the photo.

    Day 11: Nicorvo to Garlasco

    May 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The forecast promised rain pretty much all day, and it was raining before 6 am. But as I was leaving town with the church tower bell tolling at 8 am, the sky was relatively clear, and it only got better as the day progressed - ending in beautiful sunshine. Today's walk (30.26 km) was very similar to yesterday. Though there did seem to be a lot more trees surrounding the fields and waterways. When I entered the church in Mortara, the organist was practising (video attached)! It was lovely. Then I went on to cause a mild sensation in the fruit shop and also the tobacconist when I told them I was Australian. I saw lots of birds, a frog, some rabbits, and two of what I now know to be Coypu (the thing I thought was a Marmot the other day). One was swimming, and the other was sitting on the bank, but they were too quick for me to get a photo. I'm staying again tonight in "proper" Pilgrim accommodation (another donativo). This time, it is run by the local council.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4
    San Rocci Church in Gropello Cairoli. I love the staircase to the organ2Roggia CastellanaFuime Ticino42Fuime TicinoThis fluffy stuff, from cottonwoods, was everywhere.6I had to cross this bridge!22Resti del Ponte CopertoA sample of the stonework in the Basilica4Thomas and I

    Day 12: Garlasco to Pavia

    May 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Another great day of walking (26.68 km). The Way was quite diverse. It started with farmland and canal walking and ended with a combination of riverside (Fuime Ticino) and woodland walking. It's Saturday here and so there were quite a few people about along the riverside, even some fishermen. I should have mentioned that I've spent the last two nights (Nicorvo and Galasco) with a group of four Italian pilgrims who are walking the VF from Santhià to Santa Cristina. They think it will take them about ten years to complete the whole thing! I also met a French pilgrim, Thomas, who is on his way to Rome and who had actually braved Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass (five metres of snow). He said that the way down from the Pass to the Italian side was terrible and not marked. I am so glad that I didn't attempt it. I also met two Belgians on their bikes. They say it will only take them fifteen days to reach Rome! I saw lots of rabbits today, some ducks, and another coypu (but again, it was too quick for a photo). Finally, the Basilica San Michele Maggiore in Pavia has the best stonework I have ever seen.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Sant Agostino Cathedral in Pavia. Quite an impressive dome
    The cathedral catching the setting sunA street in PaviaA street in Pavia2Naviglio PaveseThe church in San LeonardoCottonwoodsThe church door in San GiacomoMountains in the distance, but no snowThe church in Santa Margherita28My accommodation tonight8The wind rustling through the wheat2Belgioioso CastleA statue in Villa Trespi Liberty garden4Archangel MicheleThe castle and fence that encloses the garden under renovation

    Day 13: Pavia to Belgioioso

    May 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I was lucky enough to find a cafe open at 7 am this morning and was able to have two macchiatos and two croissants before leaving Pavia. The walk today wasn't long (17 km), but the entirety of the Way was almost fully exposed roadside walking. Thankfully, it wasn't a problem for me as though the sun was shining and warm it really wasn't hot. I will admit my feet are a little sore from all that bitumen. I got to Belgioioso just after one pm and am so glad that I had a chance to look around as there is a castle here! I could not get inside as it is being renovated, but the outside was impressive enough. The highlight of my day was going into Sant Michele Arcangelo church, braving the sacristy, and asking the Priest for a "timbro" (stamp) for my credential. Not only did I get a stamp, but he also gave me a holy card. It literally brought tears to my eyes. The VF is a big deal here in Italy. I get shout outs and well wishes everywhere I go.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Olona river2484The church at Camporinaldo222Castello di Chignolo PoThe overgrown pathway2Lambro river42

    Day 14: Belgioioso to Orio Litta

    May 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Wow! What a day! I'm exhausted. Thankfully, there was not as much road walking today, which was a relief. I've come to the conclusion that my replacement boots are not as cushioned as the original pair as my feet are sore every day. I set out early (just before 7 a.m.) as I had a long way to go (31.06 km). I love Italy, I'm so impressed that I could find a cafe open at 6 a.m. I even got a latte this morning. It was a cool and overcast day - perfect walking weather. It did sprinkle, on and off, so it wasn't a problem until about an hour before I got to Orio Litta when the rain would not stop. I caved about 3 km out and put on the Great Pumpkin, and I'm glad I did as the next part of the Way was tall and overgrown vegetation! At least the Great Pumpkin stopped me from getting completely soaked. I saw another coypu today and managed to get a photo. I've been trying to get a photo of the storks, but they are very elusive. Oh, and I saw another castle - I think it's privately owned!
    P.S. I should have mentioned the "Mama Mia" is an actual expression here. I've heard it twice in the last few days - in connection with me being Australian!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Time pieces on houses seems to be a thing
    2Villa Litta Carini4The rear of the villaThe French pilgrims10Waiting to take the ferry4The Po river4Our landing point!Our pilot2The obstruction!2My first deer26The church at Calendasco42San Brigida in Piacenza. I've seen some incredible baptismal fonts in Italy4

    Day 15: Orio Litta to Piacenza

    May 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night, I was in Pilgrim accommodation with two French pilgrims who did not share their names - even after I explained that I was Australian (i.e. not British) - their end point is Lucca. I had the second best meal I've had since I've been in Italy that night at the "Sports" bar. It was another great day along the Way today. The section itself was 25.28 km, but about 4 km of that was by a small boat, the "ferry", along the mighty Po river! Almost all of the walking route today was roadside, but thankfully, the first few kms up to the Po river offered an alternative through nice dirt and grass lanes. Just after we, the French women and I, got off the Ferry, two large fallen trees blocked the path (which was raised above the fields below), and we had to climb over and under the trunks and branches to make our way forward! Just after I got through that mess, I saw my first deer! The photo I took is not great, but at least it is something. Not long after that, the rain started again, and the Great Pumpkin was called into service. Piacenza is quite a large place. I will do some exploring tomorrow. According to my guidebook, there are 309 km between Echevennoz (where I started) and Piacenza, and it's 685 km to Rome! I'm getting there.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2
    2Basilica du San SavinoCattedrale Sant Maria Assunta e Santa Giustina22Basilica di San Antonio2

    Day 16: Piacenza - rest day

    May 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    First thing, I went to the post office to send back some warm things. I got there just after 9 am and wasn't finished until just before 11:30! What a rigmarole! After that, I checked out some churches, walked through the morning markets, and visited the tourist information office, and Sylvia sorted some accommodation for me - I'd tried to ring the night before, but no one there had any English. Then I had a lovely lunch. The blow for the day came when I went to walk through the modern art gallery, and it was closed. My fault, I should have checked the opening times. So, I went back to my hotel and had a siesta.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    6The biggest screws I've ever seen
    An amusement park on the way out of PiacenzaTorrente Nure4The quagmire!4

    Day 17: Piacenza to Fiorenzuola d'Arda

    May 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A big day of walking today (33.67 km). I added about 2 km to that by getting off track! It was a very pleasant rural countryside to walk through, with some mountains in the distance, but with very little shade. My legs got sunburnt even though I started the day with sunscreen. My recommendation for anyone doing the VF in Italy is to wear the most cushioned shoes you can find as you will be walking on a lot of sealed surfaces - either on the roadside itself or the paths adjacent to those roads. It gets very wearing. Luckily, about 6 km before the end, there was a long section of dirt road, which eased my discomfort somewhat. That road brought me to my first quagmire! I was able to avoid the mud on the first side but slogged through the mud on the other side. My boots look very second-hand now. I met four Italian pilgrims today, one French pilgrim and a British couple. Only the British couple and I are going all the way to Rome.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Abbazia di Chiaravalle: Chiostro2424Pilgrims on the Way42Cattedrale di San Donnino6San Donnino, the decapitatedPorta di San Donnino2These are images of pilgrims on the cathedral

    Day 18: Fiorenzuola d'Arda to Fidenza

    May 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Another beautiful day, where it got quite warm and with another day of mostly roadside walking - broken up with a stretch of dirt and gravel road. I'm not completely happy with all the hard surfaces, but it's also the safety aspect. The roads are narrow and the cars are fast! I got some good news from one of the British pilgrims; I've been assured that it doesn't last. I hope so; my boots are not designed for this (nor are my poor little feet). Again, the walk (23.51 km) was through a green and lush rural environment with mountains in the background: very pretty. The highlights of the day were the Abbey (Abbazia di Chiaravalle della Colomba) and the Cathedral here in Fidenza (Cattedrale di San Donnino). I've got a big walk ahead of me tomorrow and still have not managed to find a place to stay! I've sent heaps of emails but have only received one reply - a rejection. I'm going to try to ring later - wish me luck.
    P.S. crisis averted. I now have accommodation in Fornovo!!!!!!!    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2
    48A poor dead snake2A perfectly timed benchCastello de Costamezzana22I crossed the creek using that branch!2The Big Oak - Via Francigena. Apparently, it's a thing2The sun on the cross on the church at Fornovo

    Day 19: Fidenza to Fornovo di Taro

    May 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I was up, breakfasted, and out before 7:30, leaving Fidenza through the lovely tree lined streets. I left early because I had a long way to go. Mercifully, there was a lot less road walking today. I seem to have passed through the even, shall I say flat, lands for now. Todays walk (35.23 km) was up and down and round about and included some woodland walking - just the way I like it. I didn't get to Fornovo until about 5:30 (so ten hours of walking) only to discover I had another 5 km to go to my accommodation. Luckily, a local political, canvassing for votes in the square outside the church, was able to direct me to the pilgrim accommodation who I had WhatsApped last night and said they had a place! There are four pilgrims here tonight; a Korean (who does the Camino Santiago every 2 years - he says the VF is a warm up for his Camino this year; from Saville), a French woman, and the French pilgrim, male, I met a few days earlier.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 20: Fornovo di Taro to Cassio

    May 12, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A, hard, but magnificent day of walking (23.08 km). I took it as slowly and as easy as I could as well as taking lots of breaks. Unfortunately, the first 13 km was all road walking - consistently upwards (from 158m at Fornovo to about 450m). The road walking then changed to a rocky mountain track and gave some very welcome shade. Over the course of the next part of the walk, I rose to almost 900 (887m), but, as you know, what goes up must come down, and so I climbed and descended a number of times to settle at 815m at Cassio. I have finally walked in a forest, hence the use of the word magnificent! I've seen a lot of push bikes and motorbikes today - the mountain roads attract them. I did not see one pilgrim as I walked, but the two French pilgrims I was with last night are here with me tonight, as well as six additional French pilgrims! As wonderful as todays walk was, the thrill of the day was coming upon a death match between a lizard and a snake! I thought the lizard was done for, but as I edged past them on the narrow path, the lizard broke free and the snake chased after it (thankfully in the opposite direction) - both were very fast!Read more

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