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Via Francigena - part 2
  • Carmel Carlsen
Apr – Jul 2024

Via Francigena - part 2

Having finish the first half of the Via Francigena at Grand Saint Bernard Pass (GSBP) in 2023, I'm returning to Europe to complete the second half of that Pilgrimage from the Aosta Valley (just 14 km from GSBP), in the Italian Alps, to Rome. Read more
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Saint Sisto church Viterbo
    The walls at ViterboThe church of San Martino Al CiminoI love this lead offertory box4I think these people grow mushrooms2One exhibit in the open air museum in Vetralla

    Day 46: Viterbo to Vetralla

    June 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Another very warm day of walking (23.21 km). It's 30° here now! Luckily for me, the majority of it by far was through extremely attractive woodland, so I was able to take advantage of the shade - I am very grateful as I was a bit washed out after the heat yesterday. Also, the humidity isn't too bad, so I do feel a lot cooler out of the sun, and when the breeze touches you, it's a real pleasure. Contrary to expectations (being so close to Rome), I did not see one pilgrim today or yesterday for that matter! The pilgrims I've enjoyed seeing regularly up until Montefiascone (Anna and Gabriel, the Swiss couple and Claire, the solo French pilgrim) will have moved on when I took my rest day. Note: the flies in Italy are much more persistent than they ever were in France or Switzerland. And, a mosquito got me today in the woods.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4
    122CapranicaSaint Maria at CapranicaCapranica22Approaching SutriThe tiles in the Sutri Cathedral: Santa Maria Assunta

    Day 47: Vetralla to Sutri

    June 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    What a day! It was 30° when I checked at 11 am, and 32° when I arrived at Sutri. Today was hot, and I have no problem admitting that I struggled with the heat. I had to take heaps of breaks and had sweat dripping of me most of the day (grose). Mercifully, there was shade for most of the walk (25.97 km) that was through forest, woodland, kilometres of orchards, tree lined lanes that ended, and peaked, with a finale of walking through an amazingly beautiful path through what looked like rainforest alongside a creek. What a joy that path was! My accommodation tonight is cut into stone, so I'm looking forward to a cool nights sleep. I saw three, smart, pilgrims this morning - all leaving my accommodation very early (obviously to avoid the heat): the first two left at 6 am and the third at 6:30 am.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2Sutri
    2The rock amphitheatreSaint Croce church MonterosiSaint Giuseppe church Monterosi24Approaching Campagnano

    Day 48: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma

    June 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    It only got to 30° today, and a very strong cooling wind came up in the afternoon. I'm not saying I'm coping better in the heat, but I'm trying to make the best of it. I was able to leave at 7 a.m., which helped make the walk (25.75 km) cooler at the start and got me to my accommodation earlier! I didn't see one pilgrim today, but a car pulled up alongside me (yes, there was some road walking) and wished me well (buen passaggio) - which was lovely. I expected to see fewer cars on the road as it's Sunday, but I encountered both buses and trucks as well as at least one maniac driver (I had to jump into the bushes on the side of the road). There wasn't as much shade as the past few days, but the trees were really beautiful to look at as were the mountains in the distance. Sutri has both an Etruscan archaeological site and a rock amphitheatre - I had a quick look on my way out of town this morning.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    Leaving Campagnano di Roma
    24Bucolic (there's a cow, so I'm using it)Wall mural at Formello2I love the golden fields10Getting close24

    Day 49: Campagnano di Roma to La Storta

    June 10, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    What a weird day of weather! I had sweat dripping from my forehead before 8 a.m.; not long after that, the clouds came over, and it was raining around 11 a.m. Then, the clouds remained, but it got incredibly humid, and I was back to the sweating forehead issue. After that, the wind picked up and cooled things down. It was a bit of a roller coaster. I didn't see any pilgrims today, but I did meet a lovely couple from the Sunshine Coast who have cycled from Amsterdam - final destination: Rome (they will be there now). Most of the walk today was through the Parco Regionale Di Veio. It was fantastic, the trees were brilliant, there were both Etruscan and Roman archaeological sites and, maybe because it is Monday, I had the place to myself - what a gift. P.S. I saw a murder of crows this afternoon and tried to get a photo - but, of course, they all flew off as soon as I raised my phone to take the shot.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    2I love these trees
    The solo French pilgrimSenatus Populusque Romanus. Still in use!24210The gate I climbed over4The gate I climbed overFountain in Saint Peter's SquareSaint Peter's Basilica4The view from my balcony

    Day 50: La Storta to Rome

    June 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    This morning, I was humbled and inspired by a solo French pilgrim who is just a few weeks away from her 80 birthday and had, from what I could gather, walked from Vercelli to finish the VF in Rome today! What a legend. Then, as I was on the Way, I met up with an American mother and daughter team (the little one was only 8 or 9) whom I obviously fell in love with as well. The walk today was much better than I expected. Yes, there was a fair amount of road walking, particularly at the start and at the end, but the middle was through two nature reserves (dell Insugherata and di Monte Mario). The first nature reserve was so funny, it was so overgrown - you had to fight your way through and the second ended with a locked gate that I might have been able to circumvent if I'd let myself take a step back and really look at my map, but me being me and on a mission to get to Saint Peter's Square, I decided to climb over (no mean feat, I can assure you). When I got to Saint Peter's Square, my credential got me past the line for Saint Peter's Basilica (which was huge), and onto the "Prayer Path" (for pilgrims), through security (Italian police, who confiscated my knife and gave it back to me as I left) and I went straight to the office (again credential only access) to collect my testimonium. After that, I WhatsApp called Alex, Marian, Bernadette, and Jenny to celebrate. Unfortunately, they couldn't hear me, but we all shared the joy! Yes, it was hot, yes, it was hard today - the VF in Italy has made me work for every metre - but I'm beside myself with joy that I've been able to do this. I don't care how hard it was, it was worth every step.
    P.S. for the record; I walked 994 km this leg of the pilgrimage.    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    4Saint Peter's Basilica2A list of all the popes26

    Day 51: Vatican City and Rome

    June 12, 2024 in Vatican City ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I attended Pope Francis' weekly audience today! The Aussies I met on my way to La Storta were lucky enough to get tickets, and as Steve didn't want to use his, Leontine offered me the ticket. We joined the ticket holder queue at 7 a.m. and unbelievably, we were only three rows from the front when we got to sit down! The 38th Irish Brigade of Irish soldiers, playing the bagpipes, entered the square before the pope (yes, he was in the pope mobile) - the soldiers were brilliant and the pope was greeted like a rock star. As I only understand English, most of what was said was lost on me, but I do know from the crowds reaction that he was funny and made a real connection with those present. After a coffee and a sit down (I did not get much sleep last night), I walked through Saint Peter's Basilica, then met the American pilgrims, Tammy and Allan, in Saint Peter's Square as they have now completed the VF also. We had lunch together, it's also Tammy's birthday, and then I went off to collect my credential for the Via di Francesco and ended my day with a walk along the Tiber.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 2Carmel Carlsen
    The Vittoriano21A green parrot living in the Colosseum2Enormous seagullsSanta Maria AntiquaWhat's left of the temple for Castor and PolluxStained glass at Santa Martiri church4Trevi Fountain2An obelisk that appeared to be for AugustusThe PantheonA special shopping trolley for pets!

    Day 52: Rome

    June 13, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I've walked my legs off today (23.7 km). My day started with a three hour tour of the Colosseum and Forum. I then visited the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. After that, I had a rest and then spent an hour and 10 minutes sending a parcel home! Rome is incredibly crowded. I don't like crowds at the best of times, but after weeks of spending a lot of time on my own, I have found it wonderful but overwhelming.Read more

    Trip end
    July 17, 2024
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