• lehmkuhl leaves, reflections on the trip

    July 30, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It's emotional to see statsraad preparing to set sail. A few other ships were still in the harbour last night after mist caused the parade of sail to be cancelled.
    I woke to the sound of a horn blowing. It wasn't lehmkuhl. But only an hour later I watched her leave, passing Sørlandet as she went out by Bressay lighthouse onwards to Arendal. Part of me wishes I was still on board. I definitely want to sail with her in the future.

    Looking back, I am very happy with how much I've achieved on this adventure!
    I was so anxious about the whole idea of living and working on a ship let alone cope with a such an unusual routine while living with Narcolepsy.
    Once I got on board and settled into the routine, to my own surprise I thrived and managed better than I ever expected. The shift pattern really worked for me and the adrenaline kept me going. I didn’t need as many daily naps as I usually would.
    I'm so glad I did this. Thanks also to sail training Shetland, your organising and to Lucy Morris my chaperone for being so well organised and encouraging.

    I've loved every second of it and met so many great people! I'll forever remember my time on board. Nothing is impossible!

    Fair winds Statsraad lehmkuhl!
    Go win the race to Arendal!
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  • Tall ships day 3

    July 28, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was the last time I was on board the Statsraad Lehmkuhl. It was really quite sad to leave. I would have loved to continue on to Arendal and do more sailing. But the boat is fully booked.

    I packed my sleeping bag and put away my hammock. The Sail train Shetland trainees had to gather at Fort Charlotte for a group photo and an audience with HRH Princess Anne. We were able to stow our luggage in the classroom off the sail locker below the fore banjer.
    The Statsraad gang was the last ones to arrive. But we had plenty of time for group photos as well as in our ship groups. A couple of trainees were chosen from each ship to come forward to meet the princess. Jonathan was given this opportunity on behalf of the Shetlanders on board Eendracht.
    The rest of the group waited in the background.

    When the princess arrived we all clapped and watched on as she spoke to the trainees.

    I gave Jonathan a tour of statraad before finally leaving her for the last time. I'm going to miss her and the people I met. The whole experience still hasn't fully sunk in yet.
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  • Tide Lines

    July 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    This evening I went along to the main stage at Holmsgarth to see Tide Lines! It was super weather and the support act, The Chair was amazing, just as good as tide Lines themselves. I had a great night dancing and singing with my pals.

    I returned to the ship for one final night aboard.
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  • Tall ships festival day 2

    July 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The weather today was amazing! Just like the night before. It was a miracle that we got some good weather for the tall ships!

    I woke up and had a nice morning walk along deck just after breakfast. There was a cruise ship at anchor off the starboard side.

    I met Rachel and Dad this morning. Dad's a liason officer and was allocated a dutch naval yacht the Urania. We were given a tour and it's amazing how many people are accommodated in such a peerie boat, in comparison to the Lehmkuhl.
    We also had some lovely ice cream before I gave them a tour of my ship.
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  • Crew parade & party

    July 26, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    At 4pm we gathered as a ship together for the crew parade! It was amazing to see so many people watching! The streets were packed!

    The parade went from the esplanade to the main stage at holmsgarth. And here we had the opening of the Lerwick Tall Ships festival.
    A prize giving ceremony then took place. Winners included Bima Suci, with the tallest mast and having travelled the furthest to take part. The Swan won the prize for outstanding contribution to the Cruise-in-Company.

    After the ceremony we attended the crew party where lots of Shetland trainees helped guide in Shetland dances. There was a DJ as well as Alan Nicholson's dance band.
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  • Tall ships festival day 1

    July 26, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    There are so many tall ships here. I visited Jonathan's ship, Eendracht from the Netherlands. He gave me a guided tour. It's a very neat boat, but the layout is completely different to what I'd experienced. The crew sleep in cabins unlike hammocks on the Lehmkuhl. The Dutch crew are great. They were so welcoming. I love camaraderie displayed among different ships and their crews.

    The sunset that night was just stunning!
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  • Last watch & arriving in Lerwick

    July 26, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    This watch started like every other but today's is the last watch as we will arrive in Lerwick by mid morning. I had my last physical watch, at the helm with John. We could see Sumburgh head lighthouse and the red lights from the radar domes.

    Earlier we took down the staysails. It was difficult to haul in the mizzen fall. We were all really tired. But eventually got it done. We did the same again for the main Staysail. And I worked with some norwegians to pack & fold the mizzen Staysails.
    You could tell everyone was ready for shore, we were all in high spirits as the last 20 minutes counted down. And we had some great laughs below deck discussing plans for what we'll do first when we moor. I've had an absolute ball. I wish it could have been longer! I've met so many great people. It's sad to leave them soon.

    We were awoken by funny norwegian music at 7:50 this morning. After a quick breakfast we started to give our Banjer a good spring clean. We finally arrived alongside Victoria pier at 9:30 am. We couldn't get off yet. At 10:30 a full muster was held on deck, where the captain gave a short speech thanking and congratulating us trainees on our trip. We all descended into the forward banjer where we each received a diploma and a statsraad lehmkuhl badge from the Sergeant, Mons. It was an amazing feeling to step up in front of all your peers clapping and encouraging you.

    I got selfies with Alan from Newcastle and Hans from Bergen before they left.
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  • Engine room, sailor training & les Mis!

    July 25, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Tonight's watch was not as dark because we are continuing to move North.

    One of the Ordinary seamen Christian told us how to become a sailor in Norway.
    It generally consists of electrical/mechanical studies in 1st year and
    studying deck and engine for half a year before then having to choose one.
    This is equal to becoming an ordinary seafarer.
    To become an able bodied seafarer, 2 years must be spent on a school ship.

    Next you can do vocational higher education or university.

    Christian sang master of the house from Les Mis. He'd previously been on stage performing in front of thousands.

    I was on lookout with felix from Bergen. His parents are sailing across to Lerwick in their yacht. He has visited Lerwick once before and thinks it is very nice.

    The dawn was lovely. Especially the daylight this far north.

    2nd watch.
    Sustainability talk, engine room tour, taking in sails and wearing.

    We were given a short introductory talk about Sustainability by Sunniva an officer on board. Her knowledge is in navigation but she also has the role of sustainability officer.
    We were told the definition of sustainable development mentioned in the Brundtland report and discussed ways to help protect the environment. We also looked at the 3 pillars of sustainability: governance, environment and Social.
    Sustainability is an important part of Statsraad's current and future plans. Sailing ships like Statsraad are very green at a time when the International maritime organisation is clamping down on the biggest polluters.
    It was all very familiar to me, from my Sustainable development lectures at uni.

    Next we took down the main course, or the mainsail on the main mast. I was on fire watch, so didn't have to do too much of the sail work.

    11 of us visited the engine room this afternoon. Statsraad was one of the first school ships to have an engine. There is one engine and 2 diesel generators. These provide electricity when the engine isn't running. The engine also heats the hot water.

    I resurfaced in time for 3pm coffee break where we ate the best banana bread I've ever had. It's so much more moist. Not dry in the slightest.
    Finally we had to wear the ship. This involves hauling the braces to change the angle of the sails. This is different from a tack because we do it with the wind and have a wider turn.
    I was on the main brann brace or the topgallant in English. It was hard work, but worth it.

    Before tea one of the members of white watch gave a talk about his experience as a young guy on the school ship in the 1970s. He joined statsraad lehmkuhl in Bergen on a voyage organised by his school Oceanic in New York. They sailed from November 1972 for 7 months visiting france, the Gambia, Brazil and the Caribbean before returning to Bergen via the Azores. It was notable for being the first voyage to include women and also a newly installed hydraulic steering system.
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  • Sailing, history and a cold wind

    July 24, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Leaving the Scottish coast behind. It's a horribly cold and windy evening. We've got the lights of Peterhead as company.

    Tonight we were told the history and exciting future of Statsraad lehmkuhl.
    First of all some background into the type of ship Statsraad eventually became.

    In the late 1800s Norwegian school ships started to be set up. This didn't begin in Bergen. The aim of teaching people on these ships was primarily to improve the lives of young men.

    Built in Bremmerhavn by an archduke who named it after himself.
    She trained merchant seamen during first world war and was taken by Britain as a victory prize in 1920.
    The following year Kristofer Lehmkuhl who was a cabinet minister (statsraad) bought her for a vey large sum of money. When bought, the ship was state of the art with a diesel engine. 90% of her steel is original.
    School ship.
    Renamed Westwarts & painted black in WW2.
    Supported by another business man.
    Did training in 1960s-70s. There is one guy on board with us who was one of the last boys on ship.
    Late 1970, businessman went bankrupt but did not want the ship to be taken. So it was sold into the Statsraad Lehmkuhl foundation for 1 NOK.

    She only sailed in the summer season. There was no fully employed crew until 2000s. When the Norwegian naval academy signed a contract for use of the ship 3 months every year. Recently Dutch Navy has signed a contract with statsraad foundation too.

    Future is as important as the past.
    One ocean expedition, was a vision from the director of the lehmkuhl foundation.
    The scientific paper from the expedition will be published in the Autumn.

    Future plan for expedition to Northwest passage in 2025.
    After the talk, I asked Kristian if there was any more information about the next expedition and he explained the current plan which will be confirmed soon.
    The ship will leave Bergen in April after the one ocean week, Travel to tromso, Svalbard then Nice for the one ocean conference. After that she will head North to Nuuk in Greenland, followed by Halifax in Canada. And then she will enter the Northwest Passage.

    I was on buoy watch for the last hour of our watch period. It was really cold, but I'm glad I was at the most sheltered part of the ship.

    The 2nd watch was still windy but bright. Although we did have rain in the first hour.

    We are setting sails today. We have set the lower and upper topsails. Stump & most in Norsk. This involved work on the yards. So a number of trainees have been aloft in the rigging.
    My job has involved the ropes on deck, releasing buntlines and hauling sheets.

    In the last hour I was at the helm with Eirin from Norway. We chatted about school, sustainability, learning English and learning Norwegian. Her friend spoke better English but had learned it from watching the Kardashians.
    We started with the course 035° and then the captain told us to adjust to 020° and finally to 025°.

    P. S. I just ate the best cooked salmon ever, for tea tonight.
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  • Bye bye Aberdeen, Next stop Lerwick

    July 23, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Leaving Aberdeen after a short stay. I am disappointed that we couldn't visit any Norwegian ports but I'm looking forward to the voyage to Lerwick.

    Just after 3pm all hands were called to muster on deck. We had a roll call and then were tasked with bracing the sails. Bracing involves changing the angle of the horizontal yards that sails hang from.

    We were meant to leave at 4pm but waited while the Northlink ferry, and a cruise ship had departed. The hours went by but we still couldn't leave. As the pilot was unhappy with the access arrangements on Lehmkuhl. So we had more down time in the banjer. After tea I saw that the carpenter had crafted a new suitable rope ladder, it was eventually put to use when we left after 8pm. The ladder was actually gifted to the pilot after he rejoined the pilot boat.
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  • Aberdeen

    July 22, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We have successfully crossed the skaggerak and the North Sea to arrive in Aberdeen. We had to wait until Border Force gave us the all clear to disembark.

    The Shetland trainees had a group photo at the helm. We then left the ship and were met by a welcoming party handing out wristbands and tourist info.
    The wristbands acted as a free pass to all sorts of different activities.
    Firstly we walked to Aberdeen sports village to play badminton. In the afternoon we played Adventure golf and ten pin bowling. I love bowling!
    I got a strike and a few spares, winning overall with a score of 119.

    Had tea at Nando's and chilled with some coffee and hot chocolate at Costa before enjoying watching The Barbie movie.
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  • Tours, timings and movie night

    July 22, 2023, North Sea ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We all mustered at 11:50pm norwegian time. But Blue watch didn't finish until 00:20. But the watches each shifted back 20 minutes to align with British summer time. So it was a very complicated night.
    I was on lookout watch with herman from Southern Norway. He told me the best way to cook lobster.

    Tonight we had been promised a tour of the ship's crew quarters. It's surprising how peerie the cabins are. We started by going aft along the crew corridor to the Captain's stateroom, followed by the crew mess. It was really nice and cosy. We also went to the foremast accommodation underneath the fo'c'sle.

    After our tour, our watch leader's assistant set up a projector to watch a Cape horn sailing film. It focused on an American sailor filming on board the peking square rigger from Europe to Chile, Via Cape Horn. The film Highlights just how people coped in an age before health and safety and modern technology.
    Kristian continued by recounting Statsraad's 2 journeys round the cape. The first time there was no wind and then the second rounding had a very strong headwind, enough to slam ship if off course.

    There was no second watch at 12pm as we arrived Aberdeen this morning.
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  • Rigs, Staysails and brass polishing

    July 21, 2023, North Sea ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    As we mustered we could see the lights from multiple rigs in the distance. This was the Ekofisk oil field. One of the largest in the North Sea. The main sails were furled and the engine speed increased due to changing wind direction, an oncoming storm and the need to keep a precise course to avoid rig safety zones.
    Our main task involved stowing the staysails. These are sails on the stays, cables that hold the masts in place.
    I held and gave out slack from the sheet for the main topmast staysail. Once the sail was down, a group of us climbed onto the galley roof to fold the sail into itself. We used the seam as a mark of the 'bag' to pack the sail up into.
    We also went over some additional knots but it was difficult because we were tired.

    The second watch involved cleaning the engine cover. It started nice and dry, even a peerie bit warm. But it barely lasted half an hour. For the next hour I was on helm watch. We had to keep to a course of 275°. I had a really interesting conversation with Nico. He explained the vision behind and preparations carried out for the OneOcean expedition. He had a few Holiday recommendations too. Recommending visits to New York and Austin; Cape Town, Mauritius, and Fiji.

    In 2025 Statsraad lehmkuhl will be sailing the Northwest passage!
    Nico's also been to Shetland 14 times.

    The Statsraad is usually chartered by the naval academy then sails to Shetland, followed by fjord cruising, tall ships then back to fjords, Shetland and then dry dock.

    Nico also mentioned watching the Shetland crime drama. And about wishing to watch Oppenheimer in Imax.

    After Helm watch we had another round of 'rope safari' to test our knowledge.

    After coffee I volunteered to do some brass polishing. All we had to do was polish the door thresholds at the entrance to the crew quarters. I worked until I could see my face in it.

    Finally, we were given a talk about sailors' tattoos. Each one is linked to mileage and notable journeys such as rounding Cape horn.
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  • Dolphins, knots and drills

    July 20, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Our night watch was very quiet, and spent doing nothing more than sitting around after carrying out 1 hour of physical watch duty.
    This time I was on fire watch with Alan.
    We had to visit numerous locations, check them and report back to the Officer of the Watch. The only activity above deck consisted of trainees going aloft and along the yard of the main sail. I also helped clean the Men's toilets, this is red Watch's cleaning role.

    Our second watch was much better, my favourite so far.
    I was on lookout with Ava for the first hour. The wind was nice and fresh and it wasn't raining. Nothing came over the horizon for the entire hour. But we were lucky to spot some dolphins swimming across the Bow. This activity really made me glad to be alive. Living and sailing such an old and graceful vessel is just awesome.

    (some of life's best moments are those in your memory. These are real experiences even if they may lack the physical visual provided in a photo.)

    The rest of the watch involved learning to tie knots.
    Figure of 8, Clewline, clove, sheet bend, bowline, reef.
    Then after that, the entire ship held a fire drill, where the crew practiced with fire hoses spraying into the sea. This was followed by an exercise of abandoning ship. The entire ship's company mustered on deck and survival suits were handed out to all.
    The watch ended with snack time at 3, where pancakes were on offer.

    The ship's merchandise shop was open today! I bought a One Ocean expedition t-shirt.

    We finished the day playing more card games and monopoly.
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  • Slops chest

    July 19, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    This afternoon the slops chest was opened. This is the on board shop. Items for sale included alcohol, cigarettes and sweeties. I bought some haribo and Norwegian chocolate.
    Later in the evening we played a lot of card games. Pig, Palace and blackjack.
    The merchandise store should be open in a day or 2. I'm hoping to buy a few things from it.
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  • First watch cycle and new routine

    July 19, 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Last night we all mustered on board at midnight. We learned how to hold fast ropes on the pin rails. In the second hour I was on helm watch with John from Bergen.

    I slept until 11:30 am, where lunch became a defacto breakfast.
    Our second watch began at 12 noon. We learned the locations of sheets, braces, clew lines on the pin rails lining the deck.
    I was on buoy watch for the first hour. I was there with oli from Bergen. We chatted about school, living in Norway and travel. Buoy watch is nothing more than keeping an eye out for a 'man over board'. We had our first experience of wet weather on this watch.
    The rain began just 2 minutes before we started, lasting around 40 minutes. And it returned around 2:30.
    By then I was posted on lookout at the bowsprit keeping an eye on the sea and horizon. When the rain came it just hammered into you.

    Thankfully break time came at just the right time. Nico our watch leader let us step down to the cafeteria to warm up. There were 3 trays of warm chocolate cake with ganache. I even went back for seconds. And it was wonderful to get a warm cup of tea!

    Surprisingly we had mobile signal. We were still far from the shore, but could see it.
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  • Parade of sail

    July 18, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Statsraad lehmkuhl was the first of the Tall Ships to leave Fredrikstad. At first we were towed down river backwards with the help of a tug before being turned around. We continued down river under engine power. The ship has begun to sway this way and that since arriving at the open seaRead more

  • All hands on deck

    July 18, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today was our first full day spent on board the Statsraad Lehmkuhl. We began the day with breakfast at 7:30. By mid morning we had fully mustered on deck, in rows by our hammock numbers. This was followed by getting our passports stamped by the Norwegian police.
    We were all briefed on the safety protocols and how to put on survival gear.

    We also learned about going aloft. In the afternoon we were introduced to the 4 physical watch positions.
    Starting with the lookout based on the fo'c'sle deck, where everything capable of harming the ship must be declared using a bell system.
    Next up was helm watch. This was followed by Buoy watch, which involves keeping a lookout at the stern for persons who may have fallen overboard.

    Finally we were guided through, the fire watch. This involves walking the entire ship, checking that everything is ship shape. This must be done every half hour. The second job of fire watch is to mark the passing of time using a serious of single and double bell sounds.
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  • Fredrikstad

    July 17, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We rocked up here after a short but scenic bus ride from Oslo Airport. We encounted a few tunnels on the way.

    The majority of sail trainees left the bus on the west side of the river before we were dropped outside the old town. We only had a short walk before we reached the quayside and set foot on the majestic Statsraad Lehmkuhl! We were all very tired. Once we'd been checked in we were given hammock numbers and led down below deck into the trainee living quarters. I was assigned hammock 62. I am part of Red watch. The ship is run by trainees working in 3 shifts red, white and blue. Red watch work from 12pm to 4pm and midnight to 4am.

    I had a lovely evening, and a nice chat with Amy from the Western Isles and Alan from Newcastle.
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  • Stavanger - Oslo

    July 17, 2023 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We flew on an SAS A320 to Oslo. I sat in the last row. The flight was short, but because we were so far back. There was little time to drink the complementary cup of tea.
    However the views from the window were really nice as we descended towards the Airport. I'm grateful that the clouds had cleared.

    We all collected our hold luggage before meeting our bus only metres from the main entrance.

    Next Stop Fredrikstad!
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  • Arriving in Norway

    July 17, 2023 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    After only 48 minutes in the air we touched down in Norway at Stavanger Airport.
    We reached the international arrivals terminal by bus and had our passports stamped. As we were catching a connecting flight our luggage had to be re-cheched-in. We were initially directed to self service bag drop but the computer didn't work. So we all queued at the manned check-in.
    After security we entered the serene environment of Norwegian airside.
    Its very nice with quiet restaurants and lots of modern architecture.
    The gates are displayed hours earlier than in the UK. Also, there are no 'final boarding calls'. It's so laid back. So Hygge!
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  • Leaving Lerwick Harbour

    July 16, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The journey has begun!
    We left Lerwick on the Hrossey at 7pm.
    If this were a movie I'd play Willie Hunter's tune.
    I met with the rest of the Shetlanders sailing on the Statsraad Lehmkuhl. I'm nervous but excited! Accommodation is a reclining seat at the Bow! The boat is pitching, but hopefully I won't be seasick.
    Still, I can't quite believe that this trip has started!
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  • Excitement builds!

    June 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Last month I found out that I was successful in being offered a place on the Norwegian Ship, Statsraad Lehmkuhl in the Tall Ships!! I'm going on the Cruise in Company leg, from Fredrikstad in Norway to Lerwick!

    The sail trainees met together tonight to learn more about the trip and received information packs with Ship details and packing lists. We also collected some official Sail Train Shetland merch! It's getting exciting. Less than 3 weeks to go!
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  • Sailing taster day

    April 17, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Today I was on board the Swan, getting a taste of sailing. The Swan is a sailing ship built in Lerwick as a herring drifter and more recently fully restored as a sail train vessel.

    At 9am we set off from Albert wharf in Lerwick, sailing out the south mouth and stopping at Mousa for lunch. The other tall ship applicants and I were fully involved in the running of the ship. Roles included hauling up sails and making adjustments when tacking. There were also chances to take turns at the helm and do activities such as filling in the ship's log. After 9 hours at sea we made it back to Lerwick. The experience was hard work but still very enjoyable. Plus I didn't feel seasick! The next thing is a wait to see if I'm successful in being offered a place on a ship in the Tall Ships Races in July.Read more

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