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Newfoundland
  • Laurie Remillard
September 2023

Newfoundland

A 8-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 17, 2023
    Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    1
    1211121

    Day 1, St. John's

    September 17, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It was an early start, up at 3:30am for our 4am ride to the airport.
    Our flight left Hamilton at 6:15am, arriving in St. John's, Newfoundland at 10:55am local time. We picked up the rental car and headed in search of lunch in Quidi Vidi.
    A short hike up Sugar Loaf Trail, and then off to Cabot Tower and Signal Hill National Historic Site. It didn't occur to me until later to track our route and steps - there were a lot of steps!
    Check-in at the Airbnb, and then a walk downtown for coffee and the Terry Fox memorial, along the harbourfront. There were 3 large cruise ships in Port, we did not expect to see that.
    Lisa, our Airbnb host, recommended Gaham for dinner (the seafood chowder did not disappoint), and then a walk through the neighbourhood looking at all the Jellybean Row homes.
    A long day, we saw so much more than we expected!
    Settled into our room with a movie and a bag of chocolate almonds by 8:30pm.    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    1
    11111211113

    Day 2 Exploring the St John's Area

    September 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We started the day with an amazing breakfast at the b&b, fueling up for a very full day!
    First stop, Fort Amherst. A short walk along the East Coast Trail, through an unlocked gate next to the lighthouse led us down to multiple bunkers, painted over the years with graffiti. 2 guns still stand on their footings, as if protecting the St John's harbour.
    On to Cape Spear National Historic Site... did I mention yesterday that there are a lot stairs? Worth it though, the oldest lighthouse in Newfoundland. We walked through the lightkeepers home - no quilts, but lots of history.
    Now it's 1pm, and we head back to St John's to see The Rooms Art Gallery, and tour the Basilica of St John the Baptist.
    We still have a few hours of daylight, so make the most of our time here and hit the highway for Flatrock and Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto. Pope John Paul visited here in 1984. It was stunning, the Stations of the Cross imbedded in the rock wall with sculptures, steps and view like no other.
    By now we are tired, sore and ready for dinner - at Ches's Fish and Chips! Served with gravy and dressing, that was different, but so good!!    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    HAPPY 25TH ANNIVERSARY!
    THE INSIDE OF THE ENTRYWAY AT THE ROCK'S SIGNAL BED AND BREAKFAST, ST JOHN'S1MOST OF DRIVE LOOKED LIKE THIS, ROCKY TERRAIN, CONIFEROUS TREES, LARGE BODIES OF WATER1OUR RIDE FOR THE WEEK, ON A COFFEE BREAK IN CLARENDON. CHECK OUT THAT VIEW! THE WHOLE RIDE WAS LIKEWE HAVE SEEN THESE SIGNS EVERYWHERE3😳THE ROAD LEADING INTO TWILLINGATE WAS A SERIES OF CAUSEWAYSSADLY, WE WON'T BE HAVING A FIRE ON THE BEACH THIS WEEK, THERE WILL BE RAIN FOR THE NEXT FEW DAYSNOT A BAD VIEW FROM OUR FRONT PORCH!NORM DOESNT HAVE TO DUCK UNDER THE RAFTERS, BUT IT'S PRETTY CLOSE!12ND FLOOR BEDROOM WITH A VIEW AND AN UPPER DECK2AUK WINERY - WHICH ONE SHOULD I START WITH?TWILLINGATE MARINA1Lobster Rolls from Pier 39

    Day 3, St John's to Twillingate

    September 19, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We set off early this morning, after a very nice breakfast at the b&b (shrimp frittata and yogurt parfait). Today is our 25th anniversary, so gifts were in order - first stop was dropping by The Quilted Stash to pick up a copy of their book of Newfoundland inspired quilt patterns, second stop was at the Rugged Rock Harley dealership for a NL shirt. Just what we both wanted!Souvenirs secured, we set off from kilometer one of the Trans Canada Highway, heading for Twillingate.
    We anticipated 6 hour drive (equal to Hamilton to Ottawa) but traffic and road conditions were on our side and we made it ahead of schedule.
    Our beachfront cottage "Robin's Nest" was ready and waiting, super cute and cozy... a perfect getaway for a few days. The rain will keep us off some of the hilly trails, but there will be plenty on level ground.
    After a drive around the marina, a stop at Auk Winery and Foodland for supplies, we had dinner at Pier 39: chunky and sweet lobster rolls!
    Back to the cottage to settle in and plan our next few days.    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    GOOD MORNING FROM ROBIN'S COVE
    THE SLEEPY COVE TRAIL AT CROW'S HEAD. IM POINTING TO OUR DESTINATION1HAVE I MENTIONED HOW MANY STAIRS ARE IN NEWFOUNDLAND?WE MADE IT DOWN THE MOUNTAIN! THE SUN IS OUT, 20°MY TRAIL APP LOST RECEPTION FOR A BIT, THE TRAIL ENDED UP 6.5KMLUNCH AT ANNIE'S RESTAURANTFUN CHATTING WITH THE BOAT BUILDER, BOAT WILL BE AUCTIONED FOR CHARITYTWILLINGATE MUSEUM WAS FILLED WITH ARTICLES DONATED BY LOCALS, DATING BACK TO 1800'SLEFT OVER CELLARS FROM LONG- GONE COTTAGES AT LITTLE HARBOUR1SEEN ON THE TRAIL, ARTISTS EASEL AND STOOL FOR ALL TO USE!❤️2SITTING ON LILLIAN'S BENCH1THE NATURAL ARCH, AMAZING TO SEE!NORM FOR SCALE. HE CLIMBED DOWN AND SCOOPED UP SOME OCEAN WATER!SEEN ON THE TRAIL. CLOSED FOR THE SEASON?OUR ROUTE FOR THIS TRAIL. WE CUT IS SHORT AND TURED BACK WHEN IT STARTED TO RAIN1THESE ARE 2 OF THE 5 PERFORMERS AT THE DINNER THEATER. FANTASTIC!

    Day 4, Twillingate

    September 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Has it really only been 4 days? We have done so much!
    Today we woke to the waves outside our cottage, we had coffee, yogurt and blueberries for breakfast on the beach.
    After a drive through town, we found our way to the Long Point Lighthouse at Crow's Head and the hiking trails. We chose the shorter of the two trails, a 6.5km loop. It was a a down hill trail through the woods on the hillside, leveling out at Nanny's Hole with incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean. The walk back was tough, all uphill and a lot of it on pavement. The reward at the top was a fudge and gift shop! The girl at the shop suggested some great local lunch spots, everyone is always so nice and helpful!
    Lunch at Annie's, I had the Twilly Cheesesteak Sandwich, and Norm had a Club, with a view of the harbour. After lunch we visited the Twillingate Museum, and the Wooden Boat Builder Museum. The boat builder working in the loft told us about some other hiking trails near his home across the island, so we set off for Little Harbour, and the Natural Arch.
    I wasn't sure we had another hike in us today, but we persevered and the Arch was worth it!
    Dinner was pan-fried cod and steamed veggies at the Twillingate Dinner Theatre. We sat with a fun couple visiting from Collingwood - small world. The show was great: music, comedy and local stories all performed by locals who cooked and served the meal too!
    A great day today, and we still have one more full day to explore these beautiful Twillingate islands.    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    1
    THE WATER WAS CALM DESPITE THE RAIN, WE STILL THOUGHT A SAIL WAS AN OPTION AT 9AMBY 9:30 WE KNEW IT WAS TIME TO CHANGE PLANS. OUR PROTECTED COVE WAS CALM, BUT THAT WAS ALL.THIS AREA WAS 2+ HOURS AWAY, BUT A RAINY DAY WAS A GOOD DAY FOR A ROAD TRIPWE PULLED OFF THE ROAD TO WATCH THESE WAVES, THERE WERE OLD CAMPERS PARKED BUT NO PEOPLE AROUND.WHITE SAND BEACHES! SO DIFFERENT FROM THE PEBBLY BEACH ON OUR COVE, AND THE ROCKY SHORE SURROUNDING1THE BEACH WAS COMPLETELY DESERTED EXCEPT FOR US. EVERYONE ELSE IS MUCH SANER!AFTER LUMSDEN WE CARRIED ON TO NEW-WES-VALLEY, WHERE EVERYTHING WAS CLOSED FOR THE SEASONBILLY MURNE WAS A SUSPECTED PIRATE WHO SETTLED IN THE AREA. NO PROOF, BUT A FUN STORYGAS STATION SNACKS, I PASSED ON THE WEINERS BUT BOUGHT THE LEMON CREAMS LOLADMIRING OUR RENTAL CAR WHEN WE STOPPED AT THE COTTAGE FOR DRY CLOTHES BEFORE DINNERTHE DOCKS AT DOYLE SANSOME'S, THIS WAS DEFINITELY THE FRESHST SEAFOOD WE HAVE EATEN THIS TRIP!THE BACK VIEW OF THE DECK AND DINING ROOM AT SANSOME'S. THE INSIDE WAS JUST AS NO-NONSENSE.12 SEAFOOD CHOWDERS PLEASE. THIS WAS ALL SEAFOOD, NO POTATOES AND CREAMY BROTH, NOT THICK. SO GOOD!1FISH AND CHIPS, AND SCALLOPS. AMAZING! WE LEFT STUFFED. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

    Day 5 Lumsden Beach

    September 21, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Today didn't go as we hoped due to the rain... We were looking forward to a fishing charter, but Capt. Dave from Prime Berth tours called us this morning to tell us that winds at 70 knots were expected, and his boats were grounded.
    Plan B was to find the beaches in Lumsden so Norm could finally dip his toes in the ocean. It was windy and drizzling and only 9°. Spoiler alert: he dipped more than his toes.
    After Lumsden we carried on to Newtown and the Barbour Village, but everything was closed, including all restaurants. We really saw that smaller town tourism in September drops and business owners close up shop until May.
    We had big plans for dinner, and didn't want to go out of our way to find a late lunch, so we settled for gas station snacks. It was unsettling to be able to buy a slurpee and ammo at the same counter!
    I heard about the chowder at Sansome's before we left Ontario, and tonight was the night. It was the one thing that went perfectly today 👌    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    A rainbow over Robin's Cove on our last day in Twillingate
    Thank you to Lalena of Robin's Nest Cottages, she has 3 cottages nestled on the CoveRosie's in Gander for a traditional Newfoundland breakfastToutons (tow-tans) with molasses sauce,try them if you haven't already!We saw this giant Joey head on our way past on Tuesday, knew we had to stop and look on our way by1Our room at Cliff's Edge Retreat is modern, main flr, with a private deck overlooking the ocean1Not sure we will use the kitchen, but nice to have the option!A quilt 😍Checking out the deck... I'm told this is a great iceberg viewing spot May/JuneA view of the Retreat property from their RV area. The red cottages are cute, but too big for us.Seal CoveAt The Captain's Table. Captain William Jackson was a sealer Captain who had local fameSalads 😊2They are actual cod tongues. A bit of Fear Factor happening here 😬 haha, they were good!

    Day 6, Twillingate to Tors Cove

    September 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Today was our last morning in Twillingate, it was a beautiful area but we were ready to move on. We highly recommend Robin's Nest Cottages to anyone visiting the area, found on Airbnb, and exactly as advertised.
    We stopped in Gander at Rosie's Restaurant, where I finally tried toutons! I had been looking on every menu and this was the first place to serve them. Chewy fried bread with molasses sauce, perfection! Norm had a traditional breakfast with a thick cut of bologna. It looked fantastic with thick housemade bread.
    4 hours from Gander to Tors Cove, breaking up the trip with a stop at Joey's Lookout over Gambo.
    We arrived at our hotel, Cliff's Edge Retreat at 4pm, but before checking in we found the local trailhead, getting our bearings for tomorrow's adventures.
    Dinner tonight was The Captains Table, recommended by the folks at Cliff's Edge - another first, I had Cod Tongue, Norm went for the safer option, Cod au Gratin. Both with caesar salad - oh, how I've missed salads this week!    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    Coffee on the deck this morning, glad there was a quilt on the bed, it was chilly!
    2We've only seen this soft mossy grass in a few areas hereLa Manche Suspension Bridge2We had to park at the peninsula entrance and walk up the trail to the Ferryland LighthouseFerryland LighthouseOur view from our picnic spotSo many Inukshuk. I wonder if they will withstand the winter here?1If we were here July/Aug, we might have seen whales playing in this coveHave you see the Rick Mercer Report with the sheep on the island? This is the island, and the sheep!Another muster station, and some sketchy stairs.Ice cream stop in Cape Broyle, I had a Reeces Storm (blizzard) Norm had the worst coffee ever.Bay Bulls. I love marinas. The whale tour boats leave from this port.Witless Bay, Norm jumped in the ocean again here!1Dinner on the deck

    Day 7, Tors Cove

    September 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    A slow coffee and breakfast, then off in search of the East Coast Trails at La Manche Provincial Park. I'm glad we scoped out the entrance yesterday, and glad we have a durable vehicle that can handle potholes on dirt roads!
    The hiking trail was moderate, there were some technical spots where we had to watch our footing, but the suspension bridge at our turn-around spot was worth the hike in. We saw some seals in the water, a couple of waterfalls, and the remains of the 1800's homes from La Manche village.
    After the hike we headed south to Ferryland, for our Lighthouse Picnic. I booked this month's ago, and weather was a concern, but today's sunny 15° was perfect :) it was very windy, but not cold. We found a sheltered area in the long grass and layed our blanket in the sun. I wish I'd brought a quilt with me!!
    The lunch was fantastic: sandwiches on thick oat bread, grain salads and cookies. And fresh squeezed lemonade served in mason jars!
    After lunch we wandered the trails at the lighthouse, right down to the water. If we were a month earlier, we might have seen whales in this Cove!
    A drive back up Highway 10 to Bay Bulls, and then slowly though every town to Tors Cove, and our hotel.
    We have to leave for the airport early tomorrow, so we are staying in tonight relaxing and repacking our bags. Dinner on the deck, and maybe a movie.    Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    Windiest spot: Ferryland Lighthouse. I couldn't even keep my balance walking up the hill!
    1Most romantic thing: sand scribbles at the Witless Bay BeachMade me laugh: Turns out sperm oil is used to keep the lamp lit. Cape Spear LighthouseGallery highlight: seeing one of Christopher Pratt's last paintings at The Rooms, St John'sAwe inspiring moment: standing where Pope John Paul II blessed the fleet in Flatrock, 1984Best meal: Fish and Chips (with gravy and dressing) at Ches's in St. Johns. Treated like family.Hardest hike: the Sleepy Cove trail at Crow's Head, Twillingate. I'm pointing at our destination.Most interesting local: the boat builder at Twillingate's Isle Wooden Boats MuseumMost awkward moment: siteseeing, when a funeral let out of the area's oldest churchBest hike highlight: seeing the Natural Arch at Little Harbour, TwillingateBest chowder: Sansome's seafood chowder, by a landslide. Twillingate.2Disappointment: not seeing a sign that said Fogo, Twillingate, Morton's Harbour.Best selfie: at the Ferryland Lighthouse, sheltered from the windSeen everywhere: garbage boxes at the end of most driveways. Some were painted really fun!Fear Factor moment: trying cod tongues at The Captain's Table, Tors CoveBest timing: catching the end of a wedding at Bay Bulls MarinaRock's Signal Bed and Breakfast, on Jellybean Row, St John's NLRobin's Nest Cottage, TwillingateCliffs Edge Retreat, Tors Cove NLThis is just an extra, I'm not sure why my phone created this little video, but I like it.Thanks for following along on our Newfoundland adventure! We flew Swoop Airlines, Hamilton-St John's

    A few thoughts on our trip

    September 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Now that we are home, unpacked and back to routines, I thought I'd share a few more thoughts.... some best of, what made me laugh, things that make you go hmm, and b&b info,
    if anyone's still interested.Read more

  • Laurie RemillardTravelerNewfoundland
    Cliffs Edge Retreat
    No food pic here, the view of Quidi Vidi Lake was distracting!Gahan HouseRock's Signal Bed and BreakfastChes's Fish and ChipsPier 39Auk WineryAnnie's RestaurantNo food pic here either, at the Twillingate Dinner TheatreSansome's RestaurantSansome's RestaurantRosie's BakeryThe Captain's TableCod Tongue!Best ice cream, worst coffeeOn our last night, a glass of wine, with cheese and fruit, overlooking Seal Cove

    All About The Food

    September 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Vacations are all about the food 🦞

    If you've been watching our stories and posts on Instagram and Facebook, and if you know me at all, the camera eats first!

    We had seafood chowder in 3 different towns, fish and chips, toutons for breakfast, cod tongue, cod Gratin, Twilly cheesesteak, traditional breakfast with bologna and homemade bread, lobster rolls, cod bites, pan-fried scallops and an amazing chicken curry sandwich.
    I took pictures of them all, but as with all food photos, sometimes it tasted better than it looked!

    Where we ate:

    Doyle Sansome's, Pier 39, Auk Winery and Annie's Restaurant in Twillingate

    Quidi Vidi Brewing Co, in Quidi Vidi
    Gahan House, Battery Cafe, and
    Ches's Fish & Chips in St John's

    Rosie's Restaurant and Bakery, in Gander

    The Captain's Table, in Tors Cove
    Lighthouse Picnics, in Ferryland
    Riverside Ice Cream, in Cape Broyle    Read more

    Trip end
    September 24, 2023
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