Wet in Wengen

It was wet with low cloud cover this morning. I decided to spend the morning at the hotel as I’ve been doing quite a bit each day and needed a break.
After lunch I went into Wengen. I took the cableLue lisää
It was wet with low cloud cover this morning. I decided to spend the morning at the hotel as I’ve been doing quite a bit each day and needed a break.
After lunch I went into Wengen. I took the cable car to Männlichen and then a gondola down to Grindelwald. It’s the first gondola I’ve done this trip and had forgotten what they were like. They have small cabins for 4 and they don’t stop. The cabins are moving really slowly as you exit the building but then it speeds up and seems really really fast. There were gorgeous views down into the valley.
From Grindelwald I took the train to Kleine Scheidegg and then Wengen. Even though the clouds were low I still had good views and it looked rather beautiful.
Tonight at tea there was the option of beef fondue. It was okay but really just cooking hunks of steak in boiling oil and then eating it with one of the many sauces provided. The oil didn’t add any extra flavour to the beef. I put this in the category of “tried it once, won’t bother again”.Lue lisää
Today started out as another lovely day although clouds were coming and going in the morning. Irene and I decided to stick to the plan of visiting Mürren. We took the train to Lauterbrunnen and then a cable car to Grütschlap and then a train to Mürren. The train stops at one end of the village and you walk to the other end to get the cable car either up to Schilthorn or down to Stechelberg. Schilthorn is where one of the James Bond films was made and is famous due to that. The live webcam showed it was mostly covered in cloud so we didn’t go up. Had I been a James Bond fan I probably still would have gone. I met a guy this afternoon who did go up and said even though the view wasn’t great it was still worth it. Irene if you are reading this he also went paragliding at Mürren.
The views from Mürren where amazing. We could see the peaks of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.
So we went down and along to the Trümmelbach falls. These are a series of waterfalls inside a mountain. As it turns out I don’t really like being in a confined space where it is dark, slippery, wet and very noisy. 20,000L of water hurtles down every second. So after two falls I left Irene to it and waited outside. I did meet the couple from the Glacier Express inside the falls.
As we waited for the bus back to Lauterbrunnen it started to rain so we timed it well. At Lauterbrunnen I said goodbye to Irene as she was heading back to Zurich.
As I’ve said multiple times I like travelling on my own but it has been nice to have a companion for a few days. Travelling with someone else means I saw things I might have missed if I’d been on my own. I probably wouldn’t have been brave enough to walk out onto the packed snow at Jungfraujoch and I certainly wouldn’t have sat in one of the deckchairs on the snow. It’s also been nice to have someone to talk to at mealtimes. I really felt it tonight when I went down to dinner and found I didn’t have a reserved table. The other two nights my room number (and Irene’s) was sitting on a table. So I was given a table right by the salad bar so it wasn’t the best in the room.
Anyway after arriving in Wengen I went and did my washing. I was lucky that there was an available machine as there is only two washers and dryers in the whole town and when hotels want 8CHF to wash a pair of pants and 3CHF to do undies lots of people use it. Unfortunately the instructions didn’t make a lot of sense to me and I ended up putting my washing in the dryer (with powder). In my defence it did look like a washing machine and the washing machine like a dryer. I got some help and got it sorted out. It took about 2 1/2 hours and the washing still isn’t dry but I had to come back to the hotel.
Three other guys came along after a while so it was nice to have someone to chat to. They had all tried to do washing yesterday but couldn’t get an empty machine.
They were all from the USA and it was good to swap stories of what we’d done and planned to do. We also talked about the differences in the industrial systems in both countries. I continue to astound people with my description of long service leave. One of the guys had been saving his leave to be able to afford nearly three weeks off.
It stopped raining long enough for me to walk back to the hotel.
I’m not sure what I’m doing tomorrow. It will depend a bit on both the weather and what time I get going.Lue lisää
Last night after discussion with Irene (the lady I met on the train) and checking the weather we decided to book the train to Jungfraujoch. The Jungfrau is the highest mountain around here.
We started out by taking the train to Kleine Scheidegg then changed trains to Jungfraujoch. From Wengen it took about an hour, the last 20 minutes or so through a tunnel.
I was writing this in the lounge of the hotel but then Irene and I started discussing our plans for tomorrow and I got sidetracked. Irene is returning to Zurich tomorrow but as it’s only a two hour and a half hour trip she was trying to decide what to do. I’m hoping to do a circuit on the other side of the Lauterbrunnen valley that involves buses, trains, cable cars, hopefully some walking and waterfalls. Providing the weather cooperates (it is thunderstorming at the moment) and Irene will probably join me.
Anyway back to today. Jungfraujoch is simply amazing. I don’t have enough superlatives to describe it. There’s a lot to do up there. They have an observation deck that gives you 360 degree views. From there we went to the snow fun. Walking on packed snow in sneakers was not easy. Where are my nailed boots when I need them?
I made it the two metres or so down the incline to some deck chairs. We sat in them, with cold backsides from the cold coming up from the snow and warm faces and legs from the sun beating down. We couldn’t have asked for better weather. There were people zip lining and well as on donuts, skis and something that looked like a tiny ride on mower with no engine.
From there we went to the Alpine sensation which was just weird. They had various wood carvings and an alpine display in a dome. We went through much of that on travelaters. Then the ice palace and theat was COLD. The floor was icy but not necessarily ice. There were various ice sculptures throughout. From there it was the Lindt store where I didn’t buy anything but did see how they get the liquid inside the balls. We got a Lindt ball as we left the shop. We had some lunch and then came back down to Wengen. The ticket checker on the train gave everyone a Lindt ball as he checked their tickets. While waiting in line for the toilet the woman in front of me said “I recognise you.” Unfortunately I couldn’t say the same until she reminded me they had sat across the aisle from me for part of the way on the Glacier Express. They are also staying in this hotel but I didn’t see them at dinner.
Irene and I parted ways, she got off in Wengen and I kept going to Lauterbrunnen. I knew if I went back to the hotel I’d just have a nap and I wanted to make the most of the beautiful day. At Lauterbrunnen I walked to the other end of the village to the Staubbach falls. At nearly 300m are simply stunning. I was there quite a while before returning to the station and back to Wengen.
Irene is lovely, she Canadian and also a solo traveller so we’ve compared notes on what its like. Fortunately we seem to be interested in the same things so travelled well together. See does seem to regard me as a bit of an expert on all things Wengen and surrounds which is a bit of a worry when all I am is quoting TripAdvisor a lot of the time.Lue lisää
The Alpine Sensation wasn't there when we were last there in 2010, nor the Lindt store! I had to buy a pair of gloves in the gift shop, which were hideously expensive, but I still have them so I guess I got my money's worth. Sounds like you're having a great time. Did you climb up the path at the Staubbach Falls and go in behind the waterfall? From memory, it was a bit of a steep climb and it was touch and go whether my knees would hold out, but they did, and it was lovely to look out over the valley through the falling water. Phil
Michelle CreasyHi Phil I already and a pair of gloves that I bought the other time I saw snow back in 2012.i didn’t take my scarf up with me though and would have appreciated it in the ice palace. I didn’t climb to behind the falls. My knees aren’t great at going downstairs at the moment.
Today has been another busy day. I’m currently sitting in the garden on the Alpenrose Hotel in Wengen writing this. It’s 6:30pm and the sun is just disappearing behind a mountain. I can hear cowbells.
Today was purely set aside for travel from Zermatt to Wengen but when I looked at the travel time (3 hours) and the checkin time (4-7) I realised I had time to look around the Zermatt area. Unfortunately I didn’t have time to do both Gornergrat and Kleine Matterhorn. Gornergrat offered better views but Kleine Matterhorn offered snow to touch (and a different, some say disappointing view of the Matterhorn). I went with the experts on TripAdvisor and took the cog railway to Gornergrat. My cabin on the train was filled with Americans on a National Geographic tour. Fortunately they had a very loud and informative tour guide so I got the info as well.
It took about half an hour to get up to the top. It’s 3135m at the top and for the first time I noticed the thinness of the air. My walking poles came in very handy for the short walks I did at the top. My knees have been giving me a lot of trouble the whole trip but the poles definitely make it easier on my knees.
The views were spectacular. I can see why the Matterhorn was a challenge to be conquered but (from a distance anyway) it looks like sheer rock. I had a 360 degree view and the photos I took will not do the views justice. I did however finally learn how to take a panoramic photo on my phone. I’ve only had my phone for 2 years.
On the way back to the hotel I came across the Zermatt graveyard. One section is for graves and memorials to those who have died while climbing in the region. Apparently a group of 7 where the first to get to the top of the Matterhornin 1865. One member slipped on the way down and took three others with him. The rope broke or all would have been killed. The graveyard was quite poignant.
I had stored my luggage at the hotel while I did this so I returned to the hotel to pick it up and got a lift to the station. Apparently they are only allowed to pick up/drop you off at the station when you check in or out. The station was only a 15 min walk so easy without luggage. As I was waiting for the driver a man came to the desk and was wanting a lift to the station. When it was explained they weren’t allowed to give him one he asked for a taxi. The receptionist said by the time it arrived he could walk there plus it would cost 15-18 Swiss francs. I told him I had just walked it no trouble so he grudgingly decided to walk. I left him demanding instructions on how to get there. Google maps is great!
I had just over half an hour before my train so I had lunch at an Italian place at the railway station. The wait staff seemed to be speaking Italian so I ordered Gorgonzola gnocchi. It was very nice.
The trip from Zermatt to Wengen was mainly uneventful. It was quite hot. I’d worn my jacket up to Gornergrat but as soon as I did some walking I took it off and didn’t put it back on again. It was apparently zero degrees at Gornergrat. As I’ve said before the cold is very different to the cold at home.
I spent most of the trip trying to undo the padlock on my suitcase. I’m travelling with a suitcase, backpack and handbag. To carry my walking sticks I use my backpack so I emptied it and only put in the things I would need today. As I was checking out I put my handbag in my suitcase. Absentmindedly I put my purse with the key for the suitcase lock in my handbag which I only realised once I’d locked my case. The owner of the hotel managed to open the lock with a pair of pliers which made me wonder about the effectiveness of the lock. All good? Yeah it would have been but I tested the lock and it seemed to work so I put it back on my suitcase. I used it again at the train station with no problems. Once on the train I tried to open the lock to get my iPad out and realised it was broken. Of course I did what most people do, kept trying and trying and trying, getting more frustrated in the process. I debated trying to find someone in Interlaken to remove it but I was hot, tired and frustrated so I left it until I got to to the hotel.
The porter had no problem using his hacksaw to remove the lock. He’s done it before.
On the train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen I sat next to a Canadian woman. She heard me call the hotel to ask them to pick me up from the train station and did the same. She is staying at the same hotel as me. We had a lovely chat on the way up. She’s visiting her nephew who lives in Zurich and is just staying two nights.
We are going to have dinner together shortly as we both have half board (breakfast and dinner). Half board is great. I had it last night in Zermatt and you get a 4 or 5 course meal with only two choices. Last night I was so tired it was lovely to not to have to think too hard about what I wanted to eat. I even chose the tomato soup of the beef carpaccio which normally I would have because it is something different. One of the courses is also salad. Last night they called it a rich salad buffet. I rolled my eyes. It it was rich. They had a prawn salad as well as 7 or 8 other creamy salads plus plain salad veg. I would have been just happy with the salad course.
Time to go inside as it’s starting to get cold. I’m just waiting for Irene to come down so we can have dinner.
All the photos except the last are of the Matterhorn.Lue lisää
There isn’t a lot to say about today. It’s all about the pictures.
The Glacier Express was stunning. It’s is the “slowest fast train in the world”. There wasn’t much fast about it. A lot of the line is single track so we pulled over quite a few times.
It took just under 8 hours to go from St Moritz to Zermatt. We dropped down to 600m and at the highest were about 2000m.
Most of the passengers in my car were Canadian, American or German. The guy sitting opposite me was German and his English was better than my German but only just.
I started out sitting with my back to the direction of travel but there were some empty seats so I was able to move. At Chur we changed direction as we went back the way we came and that was only 2 hours in.
It was a long day but very much worth it.
Zermatt is a car free town I was picked up in an electric vehicle that was more or less an oversized golf cart.
The pictures don’t do it justice, please forgive the glare/reflections, all the photos were taken through a window.Lue lisää
So much beautiful scenery today. I need to marry a doctor who runs a sanatorium in the Alps! I’d love to spend a month here.
I started with Piz Nair, a mountain that overlooks St Moritz. Two funiculars and a cable car got me two the top. On the way up I saw and heard cows with cowbells. The scenery was simply stunning.
I returned to St Moritz and took the train towards Tirano to Diavolezza. The scenery on the trainwas amazing. It is the first part of the Bernina Express and I can see why.
At the top there was a glacier. Again stunning.
What surprised me most about both mountains is that it wasn’t that cold. I had one layer on (long sleeves) and I was fine. I lugged my jacket around all day but didn’t need it.
By the time I got back to the hotel I was really tired and footsore so I booked in for foot reflexology. Definitely worth it. I had picked up a roll and bits which I had in my room for tea. What I saved on food I spent on the foot massage.Lue lisää
Today was a travel day. I’ve come to St Moritz so I can catch the Glacier Express. Originally I was only going to stay one night and catch the train tomorrow but I ended up booking it for Monday so I have two nights here.
The train journey from Zurich was lovely. The first leg was to Landquart and only took an hour. There isn’t much in Landquart and according to my train schedule I should have changed trains and kept going. It would have gotten me into St Moritz too early to check in and the seat wasn’t reserved so I could take any train along that route.
So I took a look through the Fashion outlet which is like a mini villiage in itself. There were so many interesting things but not having the storage the only thing I bought was some Lindt chocolate. I know we have it at home but I chose flavours I haven’t seen before such as elderberry and orange.
The train from Landquart to St Moritz was stunning. I could tell we were increasing in altitude so I downloaded an altitude app on my phone (yes I know I’m a dork) and we went from 736m to 1829m.
The hotel is wonderful. It’s a 4 star hotel, I have a single room but I’m sure the bed is a double bed. Everything is just a little bit fancy. After checking in I returned to the train station to get some information on what to do tomorrow as there is a lot to choose from. Fortunately there is a summer special where if you stay 2+ nights you get a complimentary travel card which gives free travel on all the cable cars and trains. I then took the bus just to see where it went. That’s when I discovered that both the public transport app and google maps did me a disservice by having me get off the bus one stop early and having to walk uphill with my suitcase when the bus stops opposite the hotel.
It’s been a long day so I’m due for an early night I think.Lue lisää
Superb scenery! So envious but it is making me realise that John and I have to make our version of this trip a reality. Sue Surman
Today’s been a good day, if a little slower paced than yesterday. I was awake at 5:30am and by the time I’d had breakfast and gotten ready I had some time to kill before heading out. I may have had a nap.
I started at the Landsmuseum. I got a great overview of the history of Switzerland and can now understand why there are 4 official languages of Switzerland (basically numerous cantons came together to form a federal state.
I also learnt that Switzerland may have been politically neutral in the past but that didn’t mean Swiss men didn’t fight. They just did it as mercenaries.
I downloaded an app which gave me an audio tour of the museum and was well worth it. I also got to see a Swiss bank vault. It wasn’t all that exciting, just a bank of fancy lockers but interesting for what it represented. I also found out they have 200, 500 and 1000 Swiss franc notes. That’s nearly $1500 in one note!
They had a special exhibition “what Swiss eat” and had a lot of memorabilia from the past. They had a small goods store set up and it was all knitted. From a distance it looks like the real thing.
On exiting that exhibit they had someone handing out samples of insects. He had crickets, locusts and mealworms. There were a couple of guys there already and I watched them eat it before I tried. The cricket was okay, the locust not so good (even after removing the wing and legs) and the mealworm tolerable. If they were in a dish with other ingredients I think they’d be fine. They’d give the dish some crunch similar to nuts. They’ve only been legal in Switzerland for a year or so and still have a way to go before becoming a cheap protein source. The server indicated a bag of 50-100g would be 20-40 CHF.
It was time for lunch, there was a cafe in the museum but as these can often be plain and expensive I thought I’d eat at the cafe just outside the museum. There were too many smokers sitting outside so I went inside. It was only when I sat down I realised it was the museum cafe. I picked out what I thought was a roll with cheese and some type of cured meat (no English translation here) but it turn out to be cheese with purple cabbage.
Behind the museum is a lovely little park. I went and sat there for a while. It was nice and peaceful. I sat there a little too long as I got to the dock for the river boat just as it was leaving. So I sat for a bit longer.
The next stop was the Grossmünster (Great Minster). It’s a grand church and again the audio tour was very informative. I wanted to go there as it played a major part of the reformation movement in Zurich and it was alluded to at the museum. I did feel slightly disloyal though as they talked about the great rivalry it’s the Fraumünster (Women’s Minster) and I didn’t have time for both.
I was going to catch the boat back to the museum as it’s not far from the hotel but my ticket was on my phone and by phone was down to 1% battery power. I was hopeful it would hold as the decrease in battery power isn’t a steady decline. It was a moot point as I also just missed that boat. So walking it was. My phone was still on when I got back to the hotel.
After a brief rest (and recharging of phone) I again set off for the museum to catch the boat. This time I got it right and arrived a couple of minutes before the boat. We then went down the river towards the lake. They say the boats are built especially to fit under the bridges and it looked like less than 30cm clearance. I had expected we’d stop just inside the lake but we kept going to Zurichhörn. I could definitely feel the difference from being on the river compared to the lake. It was choppier.
The driver/pilot/captain/not sure what he is called and his conductor/offsider were having a great time, waving to all the other staff on boats we passed. They certainly seemed to be enjoying their jobs.
I got off the boat and went in search of dinner. I found a place on the list of Swiss restaurants I got from the hotel staff last night. It wasn’t one of the ones personally recommended though (last night’s was). I had a half serving of raclette. I don’t think I would have coped with a full serve after last night’s cheese but I’m glad I got to try it. It was very nice. The same can’t be said for the main meal. I’m not sure whether it wasn’t well made or just not to my taste. It was mushroom sauce with some veal in it and rosti. Supposedly a Zurich speciality. I was kind of regretting not just getting some of the Indian two doors up from the hotel. The smells tempt me every time I leave the hotel.
Tomorrow I head to St Moritz.Lue lisää
I started the day early as I was awake at 4:30am. It meant I was up and going by 9am as I had to go back tpthe mobile phone shop. My SIM card hadn’t kicked in. No idea what the guy did but he got it going.
I then walked down Bahnhofstrasse. It’s the shopping street of Zurich. By the time I got to the end the shops were all very high end - Burberry, Hermes, Cartier, Bvlgari.
I was heading down to Lake Zurich and if I didn’t use Bahnhofstrasse I would have been walking parallel to it.
I had planned to do a round trip on the Lake but overhearing a tour guide talking to her group I decided to get off at Rapperswil. The boat trip was very scenic. Rather than a tour with a commentary it was more like a commuter trip. My ticket was just an all day/all zones public transport ticket.
Rapperswil is at the other end of the Lake/the beginning of the upper Lake.
There were a lot of Italian restaurants there but I did manage to find a Swiss one.
After lunch I walked up to the castle. It is now actually a Polish museum celebrating both Poles in Switzerland and Swiss in Poland. I don’t actually know that much about the history of Poland but am interested in finding out more after today.
The castle itself is gorgeous. I was able to go all the way up into the tower.
By the time I made it into Rapperswil I was rather tired. I came back to Zurich via train.
The receptionist was able to recommend and reserve a table at a fondue restaurant. It was a short walk away and very delicious. Even though my portion was smaller than that for a couple it couldn’t have been only half the amount. I watched several couples scrape the bottom of the fondue pot. I had the traditional version with wine and kirsch.
I did discover I was doing it wrong though. I would use the long fork to dip the bread in the fondu and then transfer it to my dinner fork. Everyone else was eating from the long fork which didn’t seem very hygienic to me.
After I finished I walked down to the river for a gentle stroll back to the hotel. It’s a beautiful night, very summer like.Lue lisää
MatkaajaI bet you went to bed early, since waking up so early and all that walking. 😀Photos are lovely, Rapperville looks very pretty and a fair distance away from hotel. Do the people speak English and did you like the fondue.
Michelle CreasyI was asleep by 10pm but awake at 5:30am. I’ve only found one person in Zurich who didn’t speak English, he was the tech guy at the phone store but I didn’t need to deal with him. All the restaurants seem to have both English and German menus. In Rapperswil the English wasn’t quite as prevalent. The place I had my lunch had an English translation on the menu but not on the lunch specials board. The waitress translated it for me but she did struggle a little bit. The receptionist at the hotel yesterday apologised to a couple checking in saying “ my Spanish isn’t very good. French or English?” He obviously understood some of what they were saying. I have iTranslate on my phone and that helps most of the tine if I can’t work it out from the context. The fondue was very very good. Definitely worth it and (for Zurich) not too expensive.
I’m desperately trying to stay awake. It’s nearly 8pm and I’ve spent the last hour telling myself I cannot go to sleep yet.
The trip from Dubai was pretty uneventful. I did manage to take a shower in Dubai and I felt much refreshed.
I slept a lot of the way to Zurich, apparently the flight attendant tried to wake me a couple of times for lunch. I woke just as they were serving it so didn’t miss out.
I still find the lack of scrutiny at passport control/customs a bit strange. Apart from asking how long I was staying and did I come for a holiday there were no other questions asked. We didn’t have to fill out a landing card either.
I’m staying in the Old Town in Zurich. It’s very centrally located.
After a shower I went for a walk. I wanted to buy a SIM card and managed to find my way to the shop to do that. I then walked along the river and stopped for a snack at a cafe. It was still quite warm and it was nice just to sit and watch.
I stopped at a small supermarket and found the different foods quite interesting. They had a lot of Swiss chocolate but it was all what we can get at home.
I did get a bit lost coming back to the hotel, only realising I’d gone wrong after I walked to the top of a hill.
First impressions
The route from the airport was quite industrial and not pretty. Even here in the old town there are a lot of modern buildings.
The smoking. So many people smoking.
Lots of dogs. Someone even took their dog into the supermarket. No idea whether that’s allowed or not.
Lots of bikes. No one wears helmets.
The coins are tiny. The receptionist at the hotel gave me 2.5 Swiss francs in change and it looked like 25 cents. I’m going to have to be careful with cash.Lue lisää
Until I saw the picture on the carton, I thought they were some kind of exotic berry!!