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Return to France 2023
  • Kate Boyd

Return to France 2023

A 25-day adventure by Kate Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 7, 2023
    Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Coronation channel crossing

    May 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    So, after a long ride to Portsmouth we caught the 10.45 pm ferry to Caen. There was a Coronation Disco in the bar and a carboard cutout of Charles in the vestibule... we watched a hoard of pre-teen french school kids do the makarena and a congo in the bar before retiring for side to side rolling and no sleep. And then the 5 am wakening by the Brittany folk music...
    But off we went south . Kate broke her European driving duck and drove the van for a hundred miles or so , including a jaunt down a motorway storm drain that we only just escaped with our roof intact...it will become dinner table folklore.
    After a visit to a medieval castle, we ended up in Montbazan , just south of Tours. And the heavens opened and washed away a very large car boot sale on the other side of the river. And also a wedding reception in a big marquee.
    But then the sun came out and we went for a stroll to the town before wine and hotdogs beside the van. Great to be back in France.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Tour of Tours

    May 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Awoke to the sound of the Marseillaise blasting out. Later found out its a national holiday on 8th may in France to mark victory in Europe day, when the Germans surrendered in WW2. Every wee village seemed to be having parades and bands so a pretty big thing all round.
    Ian mapped a bike route into Tours and off we set, cuckoos singing all around us, all the way. Impressed with the bike lanes in such a major city but might have been less impressive if it was a normal traffic day and not deserted for the holiday. We cycled about the medieval section , and of course there is a massive cathedral. And oh yes Tours is on a route to Santiago de Compostela like everywhere in France!
    I woke up dreaming of a croque monsieur and frites so that had to be done in a cafe near the town hall.
    Lovely route back along empty lanes.
    Moving on south tomorrow.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Recovery day at the Bastard Chateau

    May 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Yesterday was best forgotten. We tried to set off southbound but it had rained so much we were stuck in a quagmire on our pitch and in a wheelspinning mess. The campsite boss tried to pull us off the pitch and our tow hook sheared off and took a bit of the bumper with it.... could have been worse I suppose. Ian had nightmares about the hook flying off and hitting me, so at least that didn't happen... then we drove 250k through fierce rainstorms. Horrible journey. I did a swerve on the motorway, startled by a fast slip road entry and frightened the pants off Ian. We didn't talk much after that...
    But arrived safely at a really nice site by a river near Perigeaux and slept like two people who had had a day to forget
    Woke up to sunshine and croissants popped on the van seat while we were at the bathroom. Drove to a magnificent Chateau at Hautefort, renovated by the Bastard family, but the site dating back to a Roman fort . Smashing place, beautifully restored, great information everywhere, lovely gardens, formal and wooded. Quite restored us to normal service.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Perigeaux-go

    May 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    With one eye on the threatening sky we gamely pedalled off to Perigeaux, via one of the many voie vert bike routes. The heavens opened after a bit and we took shelter for half an hour under the trees by the River Isle. We made it eventually, the sun came out, we explored the old streets and had lunch in a park by the cathedral. Mainly to skip an impending thunderstorm we found our way to a Roman museum, the Vesunna. After an initial slight 'lost in translation' interaction, the staff helpfully tucked the bikes behind the counter. We jostled with French teens for some of the exhibits, but it was suprisingly good. Vesunna is the ancient Gallo-Roman Perigeaux, and the museum is located over an excavated urban dwelling or domus, with intact walls, gardens, underflooor heating, baths and mosaics and friezes. Astounding stuff.
    Then we raced home on a bit of a nasty main road just ahead of the next cloudburst.
    Bromptons standing up to the challenge .    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Lascaux cave paintings

    May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Off pitch early as we had a timed entry to the Lascaux cave paintings. Just as well Ian booked as there were no spaces left when we got there and they were turning folk away. Very modern, so very French. Excellent guide, headphones , tablets with translations, mock up of caves, movies, the lot. The cave paintings date back 20,000 years, and were discovered in 1940 by a dog called Hobo...
    Go Hobo.
    Then a drive down through Sarlat to our next stop, and our first stop by the Dordogne this trip. Lapped the campsite a few times trying to choose a pitch that we wouldnt get stuck on like before, but not confident....and its raining again...    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Sarlat-Eyrignac loop

    May 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Off we set on the bikes to Sarlat for the Saturday market. Last time here 30 years ago when Erin was 4 weeks old and the boys both had chickenpox. Don't remember much from then, but the market today was HUGE. It took over the whole medieval centre but was busting at the seams with Americans. We had pencilled in lunch but downgraded to a coffee, with lunch purchased from a nice Frenchman in a bakery who persuaded us into a quiche and a prune tarte.
    Uphill all the way to the gardens, and trying not to use power assist in case we needed it later so progress was slow, but we got there in the end. Picnic lunch on a bench overlooking the valley we had just climbed up from. Then we toured the splendid gardens, which we agreed were well worth a visit. Top topiary skills.
    After a coffee, spin back down country lanes through lovely villages to the bike path and home. Great day out (apart from the noisy Americans)    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Dordogne doddling

    May 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Weather finally on the up. Set off on the bikes after breakfast with a dual mission today. A chateau and some gardens, about 10 miles away. Both involved a stiff climb to even get to the ticket office which maybe explains the welcome lack of loud Americans who seemed to have taken over Sarlat. The chateau was at Castlenaud , and was brilliantly restored with lots of information everywhere. We did a lot of climbing up and down keeps and towers and it is was a wee bit " health and safety" in places, but well worth the slog up from the river.
    The gardens at Marquaysacc were only a couple of miles away from the chateau , but also a stiff climb up from the river. The whole area is filled with topiary box hedges, hand clipped by the gardeners. We thought they must get a bit bored....
    Some very flashy peacocks showing off, and also scavenging at the cafe tables which was novel.
    There was a 2k walk to a marvelous viewpoint overlooking the Dordogne, with canoes and boats serenely drifting by, and the village of la Roque-Gageac far below ( another of those "most beautiful villages in France" )
    A slow and slightly weary pedal home past drifts of meadow sage and glorious red poppies in the roadside verges.
    Beers in the sun by the van perked us up again.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    14 stations of Rocamadour

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Yesterday was a moving on day. Not far, and still hugging the Dordogne, but it gave us a chance to catch up with shopping, planning and washing . We don't do it often, but spent the afternoon chilling beside the van and reading. We have a lovely pitch on the edge of the river and facing west so we get the evening sun. The campsite is great. Run by 2 young men who also cook in the snack bar, which seems to attract all the local cyclists, always a good sign. They cook up meals and deliver them to people's tents and vans!
    Today up and away on the bikes to Rocamadour. We rode quiet lanes for 10 miles or so and then burst out into tourist central, the viewpoint over the village, Bellevue. We parked the bikes and hiked down from the top on a serpentine path with one of the 14 stations of the cross at each bend in the trail. The tourbus folk took the elevator....
    Half way down is the church with the black Madonna. Pilgrims climb up the many steps from the village on their knees to show devotion. The jury is out as to whether the madonna is black from centuries of church candle smoke, or it's meant to depict the fact that Africa is the mother of all humanity. Anyway she seems to attract a lot of interest. Saw our first walking pilgrims of the trip here with shells on their backpacks.
    We went all the way to the bottom of the hill to eat our picnic lunch watching vintage cars snake up the road opposite.
    Suprised ourselves by the speed of our ascent back up the steps and the hillside.
    Glad to get back on the bikes and away to the lanes with their carpets of wild flowers .
    Then sat watching the sun go down over the river back at the van.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Up the cliff to another Bellevue

    May 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Slept in today, not sure why. Woken up by barking dogs. Set off a little later than planned on a hike the campsite owner had recommended.
    Out along the river, then scrambling up under the limestone cliffs , and up onto the plateau at the top for a picnic and a splendid panorama .
    The route down had some health and safety elements, so much so that we googled the French emergency number! (112)
    But we made it down safely. Walking poles probably responsible for saving us, not least from several aggressive dogs who tried to ambush us on the route.
    Back to the van and spent the evening watching our camping neighbour fly fishing beside us as the sun set.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Steaming along the Dordogne valley

    May 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Waking up to a Baltic but clear morning that needed the heat on in the van to get us up out of bed. Lunch packed we pedalled off to a nearby medieval town Martel 6 miles away up a long hill. Part of the draw was a scenic steam train ride running today. Our route to the town was along quiet, empty country lanes. We hadn't booked a ticket expecting it to be quiet.... but we didn't factor in another national holiday (Ascension Day). When we got there it was heaving, with families (schools all shut), motorcycling groups, cyclists. You name it. We did get a ticket, but there must have been 200 on the train ride, steaming through tunnels in the rocks and past majestic viewpoints from the cliffs. Not sure how any asthmatics would have survived the return journey with the train in front...the smoke in the tunnels was choking!
    Then we pedalled on into the medieval centre and were seduced into a menu du jour at a nice little restaurant that seemed to have attracted all the cyclists too. Very tasty . We had a nice glass of local wine and sat in the sun. Picnic tea instead tonight.
    Lovely return journey down wooded lanes and through wild flower meadows.
    Campsite busier than its been all week. Think its a french " long weekend"
    We will leave them to play in the Dordogne. Moving on tomorrow.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Medieval meanderings

    May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Packing up from the banks of the Dordogne we saw our first canoeists powering by. Looks like it's going to be a busy weekend on the river...
    We had a short journey to Figeac. A place that gets a few mentions in the guidebooks. So we snuck into the campsite before lunch. Our pitch is like a meadow with wild flowers and mint growing in the grass. We had a bacon sandwich and cycled into town. Tourist office showed us a guided walking tour so we set off. 2 hours later still discovering this splendid town. We have never seen so many perfectly preserved medieval buildings in one place before.
    Also, it's the birthplace of Jean- Francois Champollion. The chap who deciphered the rosetta stone in Egypt...
    Pedalled back to the site for curry and wine. Listening to a battle for auditory supremacy between a cuckoo and a cockerel .    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Jazz in Figeac

    May 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had explored the town yesterday. The tourist office told us there would be jazz in the market in the morning so we had to go and take in both. And what a great morning we had. The market was the best we have seen in France. Lots of local produce, chickens roasting with tantalising smells, and then the jazz band arrived. They were great fun, dancing and weaving through the streets. Everyone was smiling and dancing along. We both agreed it was depressing that the UK chose to separate itself from this kind of joy....
    We had a coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice and soaked up the fun.
    Then off we went on a ride to a nearby hilltop town Capdenac. Great spot overlooking the Lot river. Perfect for picnic lunch. The village is Gallo/ Roman and closely tied to the knights templar and the pilgrim routes to Rocamadour and Santiago de Compostela. Lots of pilgrims about including one young man lugging a big cross on his shoulder.
    A great spin down afterwards back to the campsite through isolated wooded valleys.
    Great day all round. We have decided to join the European movement...    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Imp on the bridge

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Set off in the rain headed for Cahors. Another medieval / gallo/ Roman town. It was the old capital of Quercy.
    We pitched up, had lunch , and then cycled into town as the rain stopped.
    Picked up a walking map from the tourist office and a bird promptly did a big shit on it. Had to get another, much to amusement of tourist staff.... The big town draw is the Pont Valentré. Apparently the best preserved medieval bridge in Europe. Six gothic arches and three towers, built between 1308 and 1378. Stunning. Rumour has it the architect made a pact with the devil, selling his soul to guarantee finishing on time. Then he changed his mind and the devil made an imp climb up the middle tower every night and throw down a stone so it was never finished. The bridge was restored in 1800s and the then architect added a devil's imp to the middle tower in deference to the story.
    Spent the afternoon meandering the medieval streets and visiting the cathedral. Lots of pilgrims here, one walking in flip flops....    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Another day another river

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We left the Lot behind us this morning and started the journey north. We crossed the Dordogne along the way, and are now settled in for the evening by the Dronne. The nearest town to the campsite is Brantome, famous for its massive Benedictine abbey. The bell tower dates beck to the 11th century. The town sits on an island in the river with bridges and weeping willows all around. Very quiet- French monday syndrome. We walked back to the campsite just ahead of a thunderstorm. A few too many UK number plates here for our liking so we will move on tomorrow and try and get off the beaten track a bit.Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    The long straight road north

    May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Another long drive today. Some of the straightest roads we have ever driven. Miles and miles and miles of them. We figured they must be Roman. They didn't waste time on bends. Easy driving, little traffic.
    Several hundred K later, we are back near the Loire, and pitched in a nice site by a lake. When we walked around it, we could see massive pike coming up to the surface and writhing about, maybe fighting. There is a beach on the lake but not sure we want to share our toes with hungry pike. Back to some history tomorrow. Difficult to avoid the chateaux round these parts!
    Cherries falling from the trees on the pitches here might keep us awake tonight bouncing off the roof...    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Lovely Loches

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Up early to ride to Loches. The market was on this morning, and we know from experience these markets pack up and go without trace on the strike of 12. We had a great ride through rolling farmland and forests. Arrived in plenty of time and had a mosey round the market before climbing the medieval streets to the fortress again well restored with loads of information in French and English.there was a statue of a unicorn in the gardens. Apparently they were popular in the 1400s as it was thought they could tell a virgin from her scent.... The ticket got us entry to the Royal lodgings too and that was on a fantastic site high above the town with splendid views . We had promised ourselves a treat so menu du jour it was, sitting watching the market stalls pack up . Then, pedalled back through the sunny back lanes and a nice rest by the van. Great dayRead more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Headwinds to Montresor

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Set off today on the bikes to visit a chateau about 3 miles away but, just to make it interesting, Ian added in a 20 mile extra loop. The first half was like riding through the prairies of the mid West into the teeth of a strong headwind, so it quite pooped us. After a coffee stop we finally got a tail wind and got to our destination. Interesting visit, not least for the urn that contains a human heart! There was a sizeable display of taxidermy, too. The Chateau at Montresor dates back to 1050 but was restored by a Polish chap in the 1800s. He brought water to the village and built schools and a hospital so everybody loved him and all the streets in the (one of the most beautiful in France) village are called after him.
    Back to the campsite to find some sort of school triathlon going on round and in the lake. Wonder if they know about those big pike.....    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Back to the Cher

    May 26, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    A short hop this morning , with a quick shop and arrived at a site next to Chenonceau. Everyone here would be visiting the chateau, but we have both seen it. We have other destinations on our list. We landed a prime pitch spot next to the river by chance. Quick lunch and then off along a cycle path to Montrichard. A village ( one of the plus belle...) with a Fort dating to 1014. Was closed today but the village was lovely. Nice cycle back, dinner outside watching returning canoeists go upstream.
    And watching the sun set over the weeping willows.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Good year for the roses

    May 27, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Up and away on the bikes to a village about 10 miles away. Chédigny. We had spotted they were having an annual rose festival. And what an event. People marching about with 6 ft roses on their shoulders, masses of blooms everywhere. We cycled in on a backroad and saw no one. Then everyone in the whole of the Loire was there buying huge roses. The village was lovely. We had a picnic and explored some of the gardens. There was music and food and art and good humour . Back to base for a BBQ and watched hot air balloons drifting over Chenonceaux .
    Lovely evening to watch the river in the sunset.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Back to the lovely Loire

    May 28, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Picnic made. Off on the bikes again. Amboise is on the banks of the Loire so we left the Cher behind and headed there for the Sunday market. Seems everyone in the district turned out for this one. It was huge and packed. The air heavy with roasting chickens again. Veg, meat, fish, clothes, and you could even buy your mattress at this one, although I predict a challenge to get it home through the crowds.
    Then we headed for the Chateau Royal d'Amboise, perched high above the town on a rocky outcrop. Packed with history, beautifully restored and stunning gardens where we ate lunch.
    Rerkable not least for a helix shaped cavalry ramp inside the chateau tower so the horses could gallop up to the terraces from the town below. A bit like the ramps into a multistorey car park- maybe where the idea came from....
    We pedalled home along a very good cycleway through forests and back alongside the Cher.
    Another lovely day between two lovely rivers.    Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    La Loire à velo

    May 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We are camped less than a mile from Chenonceaux , a really big tourist draw , but we have resisted the temptation all week. Guidebooks say you can't see the chateau from the road. All along the river canoes and boats for rent at high prices so people can float down the river under the arches of the chateau as it spans the river Cher. We did think about finishing our trip with that, but sacked that idea off for a last bike ride. The Loire is criss crossed with lovely biking routes, often with no cars, between the rivers and forests and villages. We did a super long ride today, combining several of the routes, and had a grand last picnic, thanks to the local boulangerie. Gteat to see so many cyclists out, all wishing us a cheery bonjour. And then our route took us right past Chenonceaux chateau anyway!Read more

  • Kate BoydReturn to France 2023Traveler

    Au revoir, à bientôt

    May 30, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Packed up for the final time and left our tranquil spot by the Chèr river. Decided to use the péage motorways for the last push north, which was smooth, quiet and fast. Still a little twinge of anxiety as we rolled up to every toll booth wondering if the dash box would work, but it didn't let us down.
    Our ferry not until 11pm so Ian had the idea of visiting Bayeux for the afternoon. Great shout. After a Breton galette for lunch we went to see the tapestry. It was astounding. Brings it home how tightly intertwined English and French history is.
    Then we walked over to the museum of the battle of Normandy. Excellent stuff, with lots of poignant exhibits and a movie that explained the almost inexplicable way the advance moved inland. Almost marred by a noisy American but we are used to that.
    Then we drove to the plage at Ouistreham. Probably a mistake as it was obvious we were in for a rough crossing. The wind was so strong half the beach was blown onto the road. Made a sandwich with our last pain traditionnel and then moved to the ferry terminal. Lovely staff , who manage to make security checks inside the van seem like a social event.
    Crossing as expected. Another group of rather more rowdy French schoolkids doing the makarena and congas round the bar at midnight before they were all rounded up and dispatched to bed by pretty hands-off set teachers who were enjoying the bar and oblivious to the mayhem . We watched with a last glass of Bordeaux
    Great trip, but looking forward to seeing everyone, and hugs.
    À bientôt la belle France.    Read more

    Trip end
    May 31, 2023
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