• Rob and Pam T
Apr – Nov 2021

North Queensland then West

This trip starts from home and does a near lap of Queensland. The furthest point is the Dig Tree, nearly to the South Australian border. Approximate duration, six months. Read more
  • Normanton - Krys the Croc

    July 13, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Kris was one of the largest crocks ever caught in Australia.

    Text from the sign.
    HISTORY OF KRYS-THE SAVANNAH KING

    Krys the Savannah King is an accurate artist's impression of the largest recorded saltwater crocodile captured in the world.

    Krys was shot on the MacArthur Bank, Norman River, down stream from Normanton in July 1957 by Krystina Pawlowski, one of the many crocodile shooters operating in the area at that time. The crocodile's name, "Krys the Savannah King", reflects the feats of this lady.

    Krys measured 28ft 4in (8.63m) and is the largest authenticated crocodile ever shot. Krystina's husband,

    Ron, estimated that it would have weighed over 2 tons. Ron took several photographs so that some comparison of the crocodile's real size would be made. These photographs were lost in the 1974 floods.

    This replica at the L.E.W. Henry Park has been built to the dimensions listed in the Guiness Book of Records and was officially opened by Krystina Pawlowski on Saturday, 12th October 1996
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  • Indelible Sunset - Fishing Bridge

    July 13, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The most purple indelible ink sunset I have ever seen. I know it looks like a photo shop or a fancy filter but it is actually so close to how it looked I can't believe it. There are some things you can't un-see! In this case that's not a bad thing...

    On the way back from Mutton Hole we decided to walk over what is now known as fishing bridge. It is the old bridge just off to the side of the new two lane bridge. It was getting on time wise, with the sky rendered in deep rich colours of the purple indelible ink pencil of years ago.
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  • Karumba Sunset

    July 14, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This trip we are camped about 1.5 kilometres from Karumba point. Six years ago we were camped in old Karumba town. Then we walked a bit further and were amazed by the sunset. We also decided, after many recommendations on our way here, to try the Barra burger from Ash's Cafe. It was delicious.

    This time the walk was a bit less but the sunset and Barra burger were amazing. We took our coffees with us as well as seats. We were well prepared.
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  • Karumba bird watching tour

    July 15, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Up early this morning for a cruise along the Norman River, in the hope of seeing birds in the edges of the river. We had to wait about half an hour for stragglers who were not clearly understanding where the boat left. We were not positive ourselves.

    Off we went with a decent history lesson. This was a Catalina base for a short time during WW2. The zinc refinery and even a scuttled boat were points of interest. There were Black Kites circling around and visiting the boat for a fish treat.

    Soon we nosed into the mangroves at various points to observe many small birds. Red headed Honeyeater were plentiful and a few yellow silver eyes. Robins, mangrove fantail and a Herron were seen. Pam photgraphed these and more but sadly I was often too close to use my binoculars.

    It was a quite interesting tour with an enthusiastic group of birders.

    The GPS track runs a bit after we finished because I forgot to turn it off. I also had forgotten to turn it on immediately we started the tour, but you can see where we went in the boat.
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  • Normanton Rail

    July 17, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today we are having a short rail trip out to Critters Camp, from Normanton.

    HISTORY OF THE NORMANTON RAILWAY STATION
    ** Info from the sign **

    Original construction of the railway began in 1888 with the line being completed in 1891. The line was originally proposed because of the copper mining industry in Cloncurry and also the cattle industry. The only way the copper was able to be transported to the port of Normanton was bullock and dray. This transport was only possible when the roads were dry enough for the heavy drays to be towed and there had to be enough feed and water available for the teams to eat & drink on their way. Because of this, the cost of transport was very expensive. But that all changed when gold was discovered at Croydon.

    The Normanton-Croydon line was then constructed under the supervision of Mr George Phillips, an engineer and advocate of the Gulf Country. He designed and patented the steel sleepers used on the line. Interestingly, they are hollow based and packed with mud, avoiding the need for ballast material in the track. This low cost railway was also designed to be submersible, allowing flood waters and debris to flow over the line, leaving it intact when the water subsides.

    Today, over one hundred and twenty years since the start of the construction most of the original steel sleepers are still in place.

    The original service consisted of five, first and second class passenger carriages and fifty assorted freight wagons. The last steam locomotive ran in 1929, but the first railmotor was introduced in 1922 for the services with little freight.
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  • Critters camp

    July 17, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A worthwhile trip when you visit Normanton is the railmotor journey to Critters Camp. The 70 year old railmotor makes an easy run over the 130 year old track. About 95% of the railway is what was originally laid.

    Critters camp is one of the points on the line where the railmotor can be turned around. A short curve runs off at right angles and switches back the other way.

    All about the name.... Apparently when the camp was setup in 1989 one of the workers was bitten on the derryairre by a redback spider. There were other biting "critters" such as venomous snakes so hence the name. Not at all about the cute fuzzy critters also seen here.

    Critters camp was reconstructed in 1989. It was the turn around point then for the couple of trains that ran along the line. When the Norman River was flooded supplies and people could be brought from Normanton and taken across by the flood boat. Here everything was loaded on the train and taken the remaining 80 miles back to Croyden.

    When the gold ran out at Croyden the turn around rails were taken out as they were not needed for the once a week service.

    In 1989 the rails were replaced to cater to tourists wanting to travel this railway.
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  • Mad GT's Campsite

    July 17, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We have no idea who mad GT was or why he camped here. The place is beside a nice billabong or seasonal Lagoon and right now it is quite a nice place. We hope GT did not meet an untimely demise and haunts nightime visitors.Read more

  • The Road from Normanton to Burketown

    July 17, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    226 kilometres is not far right? In the outback it can be any sort of trip that can change with weather and traffic.

    From Leichardt Falls the road was sealed but not always smooth. There was about 120 kilometres of unsealed, very dusty road. We pushed into the wind most of the way and used more fuel than usual.

    The dirt road was actually not too bad but there was a lot of dust stirred up by every car. For us the wind favoured by taking the dust off quickly but there was still a fair amount of dust over everything when we stopped to camp for the night.

    There was a couple of gravel pits being setup so I think roadworks might be planned for the future.

    There was quite a bit of traffic heading east. It seems the circuit is out on the main highway to Cloncurry, up via Gregory then east from Burketown.

    Overall it is quite a good trip at this time of year.
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  • Frederick Walker

    July 18, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Caution, history lesson. Text from the sign not far from Leichardt Falls.

    Born in England about 1820, Frederick Walker came to Australia as a young man, worked as a station manager, then as Clerk of Petty Sessions at Tumut in NSW

    Because he was an excellent bushman, knew the country and moved quickly Fred was recommended for the position of first Commandant of the Native Mounted Police (NMP). The Corps was established in response to reduce the frequent conflicts between Aborigines and colonists beyond the settled districts.

    Eventually his indiscretions as a heavy and indiscriminate drinker lead to his dismissal from the Corps. So he raised a troop of Aboriginal mercenaries who carried out the work of the NMP in a private capacity but this illegal force was soon disbanded by the Government. Walker wrote frequent letters of complaint about what he regarded as the needless killing of Aborigines.

    In 1861 he was employed to lead one of the Burke and Wills search parties. After following their tracks until rain had obliterated them, Walker passed the present site of Marathon Station, where Walkers Creek is named for him.

    Frederick Walker, Floraville Station

    On August 9, 1864, the Legislative Assembly of Queensland thanked Walker for his services as an explorer in Northern Australia. In 1866, W. J. Cracknell, Superintendent of Electric Telegraph advised:

    ... Mr F. Walker with a well equipped party consisting of four Europeans and four Aboriginal Assistants left Rockhampton in the 19th ultimo (March for Bowen, enroute for the Albert and Gulf shores to thoroughly explore and survey the country... to discover the most eligible route."

    Frederick Walker was in many ways a remarkable man. His exploration of the Gulf assisted in opening up the region and his maps were considered accurate. Walker did not find Burke and Wills but he did find Camp 119, their last camp before they turned south on their fatal return journey.

    Walker was later employed to survey a 500 mile route from Bowen to Burketown in a bid to compete against South Australia to have Burketown the end of the Trans-Oceanic link from Europe. Although Frederick lost the race and Darwin became the terminus, he did complete the surve line.

    His arrival in Burketown was at the height of the Gulf Fever - at phoid which affected the Gulf bought to Burketown by a vessel on which all the crew except the Captain died. His job completed, he began the return journey on November 1866, unwell but determined to continue. On 19 September 1866 the Expedition's log reads:

    ... About dinner time observing a great change for the worst, they gave him a drop of sal volatile and a gentleman was requested to come from the station to see him... he did not think that Mr Walker would live throughout the day... He died at noon and was buried on the evening of the same day."

    The place of Frederick Walker's grave was forgotten and remained a mystery until Mr Walter Camp of Floraville discovered it in 1979, after inany years of searching.
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  • Leichardt Falls (East Side)

    July 18, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The crossing of the Leichardt River above the falls is a long narrow cement track. A low bridge spans the channel where the water flows across.

    We stopped at the beginning of the road across a d were greeted with a huge noise of little corella in groups of thousands.Read more

  • Burketown

    July 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The furthest North West we will be on this trip. Burketown has proven quite interesting with a few things to experience.

    This time we have had a look around and decided we will plan a return trip in the future.Read more

  • Boiling Down Works

    July 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Text from the information sign.

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiling_Down_Wo…

    The first boiling down works was established in 1867. The plan was to cure beef in brine for export to Batavia. However, the business was not successful and closed in 1870. Construction of a new boiling down works commenced in November 1891 and was operational in July 1892. However, it closed for a period around 1893-4 due to the drought. In February 1896 it shut down again after a quarantine order to prevent the spread of disease and cattle tick.

    In April 1898 it was announced that the Endeavour Meat Export Agency (EMEA) would re-open the Burketown meatworks. So in May it was at last arranged for the sale of a mob at Hughenden to the EMEA. Soon after the cattle had moved off with their respective drovers, the news came back that the new processing works had been destroyed by fire. They were then repaired to re-open in June 1899..

    In February 1901, the works was doing well, processing 20,000 cattle in a season. However, the business had losses from its decision to own and operate its own ships. In October 1901, the works closed temporarily due to a shortage of cattle because of high prices being paid for them from other buyers. In November 1902, the Queensland Government withdrew its meat inspectors from the works because of "the closing down of the meatworks and the uncertainty about their reopening".

    By 1905, even though only 88 town residents are listed in Burketown, the works continued in the business of canning, extracting, tallow refining and fertiliser production.

    In 1911, a bid to secure a railway link from Burketown to the east coast was scuttled when it was claimed that "the white ants are making havoc with all that remains of the Burketown works".
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  • Landsborough Tree

    July 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    There is a long story attached to the Landsborough tree. Check out the Web links for the story. In 2002 the tree was burned away to a Stump. The small tree growing beside was planted to commemorate the sire. It is a coolabah tree the same species as the original tree.

    Its kind of humbling to stand at these sites where people endured hardship and often perished.

    https://www.burke.qld.gov.au/our-region/history…

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsborough_Tree
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  • The Burketown Bore

    July 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    From the sign....
    The Burketewn Bore was drilled by the Queensland Government in 1897. At the time the sinking of the bore was an important new facility for Burketown and an indicator of the expected economic development. of the area. The Gulf country's currency was high in 1890s, largely due to the establishment of the big meat works, and Burketower was to be a major centre for travelling stock.

    However the water is suitable only for adult cattle to drink, and is not much use for anything else. In a 1959 report C.S.I.R.O. noted that the water was. unsuitable for drinking, domestic use or irrigation, the flow was uncontrolled and the casing was leaking very badly.

    Over the decades vast amounts of artesian water, full of all sorts of minerals, have created an unusual environment in the flooded surrounding area. You'll see the large mound of minerals left as the heated water has evaporated over the past century, creating am impressive structure around the old bore hole.

    Hot Showers
    A Public Bath House was built in the 1940s. Users had to be very careful not to scald themselves, which a bit tricky, since it involved using a valve ar the borehead to mix the bore water with cooled water in a catchiment tank on top of the Bath House.

    Somewhat more recently, the vital statistics supplied by C.S.I.R.O. in 1959 for registered Bore No. 330, Burketown were:

    Depth: 702.3 (m)
    Elevation: 10 (m)
    Depth of Aquifers: 329.2 (salt), 606.6, 671.0 and 690.7
    Flow rate M3/D: 180
    Temp . 68C°.
    Total salts: 598 mg/l

    https://www.burke.qld.gov.au/our-region/history…

    http://www.burketown.com.au/discover/nature-and…
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  • Bon Voyage Burketown

    July 19, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Only 1 and a half days stopover in Burketown. It's just time to get a bit of an inkling there is much more to see.

    Probably to have a decent look around, take in the tag along trip, go hot air ballooning and do some relaxing, it would warrant a few days at least. The town feels pleasent but we know this is about as cool as it ever gets. We actually had coats on this morning but as the day progressed the temperature rose to mid 30's.

    The town is very remote and isolated. No big shops, and fuel is a bit more costly. It is a long way from Townsville. Many people come here every year after the wet for the fishing. It seems everyone has a boat here and visitors seem to drag one in. Huge fish can be caught in the Albert River and even more by taking the 40 kilometre trip down to the open sea.

    The boating is not for the faint hearted though. Signs at the boat ramp drive home the point that you must be well prepared, carry spares and be experienced in gulf weather conditions.

    The rewards are great but so are the consequences for poor preparation. The rivers up here have a huge population of "lizards", the local term for man eating estuarine crocodiles that are commonly 3-5 meters long, weighing up to 1,000 kg. You are at extreme risk if you get tossed in the water. Boaties are required to advise their planned movements and set a SAR time. (Search and Rescue) Safety equipment such as flares, radio etc are mandatory, even in the river.

    I don't think I would be keen to break down or capsize in these parts.
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  • Upper Gorge Lookout - Boodjamulla NP

    July 23, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today was the big walk. Nearly 8 kilometres. (Tap on the path file after the photos to see where we went).

    A total of 17,000 steps logged by my Samsung watch. My app says nearly 13 kilometres total for the whole day. I'm gonna believe that because it seems a lot! My legs certainly believe as they are quite tired.

    We had breakfast before the sun rose and were on the track as the sunlight spread over the sharply rising hills. The rich reds were a treat to see in the crisp morning.

    The track is not too hard with some inclines, rock hopping and steps. The info board reckons the walk is rated for experienced hikers. That's us!

    The view at the lookout is spectacular. After steeping in the views for a while, resting a bit and drinking a lot of water, we returned along the creek, up the steps from the falls and back to our camp. We were out for around 5 hours. Of the 4 litres of water we took, only about 500ml was left.
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  • A short walk along the Creek

    July 24, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We were planning a longer walk this morning, but after such a huge day yesterday we woke up a little weary. The 4k walk can wait until tomorrow.

    Pam went out for a while before breakfast and limbered up while I got ready for breakfast. After breakfast I decided to take a bit of a walk along the creek. It should have taken about 20 minutes of easy activity.

    The steps down to the water provided a vantage to relax and enjoy the fish and turtles. Talking to people and giving directions for the walk we had done yesterday turned the 1.3k walk into a bit over an hour.

    It is very easy to get distracted around here.
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  • Lawn Hill Gorge Cruise

    July 24, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    It is often be difficult to pick moments during our travels that stand out. The boat cruise up the Lawn Hill Gorge is definitely right up high on the list.

    The electric powered boat glides silently through the imposing gorge fed by foreign artesian water that flow all the way below sea level from New Guinea. On the trip the water absorbs much calcium and hence not optimal drinking water, even though quite clean.

    The colours of the cliffs each side are impressive, especially in the late afternoon sunlight. The scale of it all is too massive to capture in a single photo frame. One has to resort to wide angle cameras or panorama software.

    This is certainly a memorable trip on an amazing creek.
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  • Howlin' at the FULL Moon!

    July 24, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Tonight is a full moon. Out here in far north western Queensland, it is very bright. There is easily sufficient light to walk around without a torch.

    Night photography is quite interesting with good scenery results with high ISO speed of 800, full aperture and shutter speeds of around 4 seconds.

    In town and on the farm, these nights were restless with the animals. Dogs, roosters and other animals can be unsettled and sometimes noisy.

    Werewolves obviously come out for a howling good time and patients in hospital and other places are often observed to be restless and unsettled. This gives rise to the term lunatics.

    Whether physical due to gravitational forces exerted by the moon, or simply that things can be seen to move in the shadows more on moonlit nights is anybody's guess.
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  • Constance Range Walk

    July 25, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This morning we were up again early. This time for the range walk. It turned out to be an amazing walk with fairly easy trek up the hill. Some care required of course but well within our capability.

    There are 360 degree views of the landscape with beautiful lighting on the cliffs. We were lucky to see a sea Eagle tending its nest quite a way over near the creek.

    Early morning is definitely the best time to do this walk before it gets too hot.

    Walk info..... (from the info board)
    3.7km return, allow 3hrs return
    Best time: sunrise or sunset when
    you can also watch the moon rise
    (bring a torch for the return trip).

    Walk alongside Lawn Hill Creek before taking a steady climb up the ancient sandstone ridge ofthe Constance Range. Sit down to catch your breath and enjoy the silence before embarking on the 475m ridgetop circuit.
    Fantastic panoramic views over the black soils of the GulfSavanna Plains can be had from the lookout.

    This is a challenging walk, suited to
    experienced bushwalkers. For a less
    strenuous pace, walk 750m beside Lawn Hill Creek returning when the track the creek edge and starts to climb up.
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  • Duwadarri Lookout Hike

    July 25, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    This was probably the hardest walk we have done. Possibly having done the other walk this morning made us a little more fatigued. The route in places was climbing up over rocks and fairly big steps. We took the easy option, returned back the way we went, and did not take the steep steps.

    Today we walked altogether about 8.5 kilometres according to the GPS logger. My watch has logged 18,500 steps. Still a bit of time left to get a 20.000 step one day record. 😁

    From the sign.
    2.5km one way
    - the "long and easy way" allow 1.5hrs 920m one way
    - the "short and steep way" allow 1 hr
    Best time: avoid the heat ofthe day.

    The most direct route to Duwadarri lookout includes a very steep hill climb, not recommended unless you are a fit and experienced bushwalker. The alternate route, or 'the long and easy way' to reach Duwadarri lookout means walking the tracks in a clockwise direction, visiting Indarri Falls and Indarri Falls lookout before continuing along the rim ofthe gorge to Duwadarri lookout.
    Take in views over Middle Gorge and
    Duwadarri Waterhole contrasting with the dry savanna landscape. Ifyou take this option a very steep descent leads you back here.

    FUN FACTS.
    The Spinifex Story from an info sign....

    Boodjamulla is largely covered in spinifex the spiky grass you see while walking on these tracks. It provides protection for animals from predators and extreme temperatures, and is essential nesting habitat for many bird species, including the threatened Carpentarian grass Wren.

    The old growth spinifex you see supports a rich abundance of termites. which are food for reptiles, birds and mammals.

    Boodjamulla's TraditionalOwners, the Waanyi people, would burn patches of spinifex as they moved across the land creating a variety of ages in the grass.

    Today we burn early, like the Waanyi people did, to avoid hot summer wildfires burning out large areas of country. Burning this way reduces the scale and severity of naturally occurring summer wildfires and promotes healthy spinifex communities.
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  • Leaving Boodjamulla :(

    July 26, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Last walk this morning at Boodjamulla so we decided to walk along the creek on the first part of the walk to the Constance range lookout. At the end of the creek Pam searched for birds while I went on about halfway up the hill.

    Returning to the Ranger station we continued walking along the creek until the path peeled to the left for the Indarri waterfall walk. By now it was well time for us to leave the park so we returned to our camp and set sail for Gregory Downs. In 2 hours I had walked about 3.5k.

    It was a little sad to be leaving such a beautiful place after only 5 nights. 😢😭
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  • Murray's Place, Gregory

    July 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A small oasis in the dusty trek west. Murray has a small shack on the roadside over the road from the hotel. He makes great coffee and home made muffins. Murray has quite a huge stock of small luxury foods like tea, coffee and biscuits as well as small grocery necessities such as milk. It was well worth stopping for smoko before we continued towards Four Ways where we will turn south towards Cloncurry.

    Murray has an interesting model aeroplane on the roof.

    Pam was delighted with the many visiting Crimson finches. Murray has Billy cans hanging that must have seed in them. The tiny finches land on the edge, check to see if anyone is already inside then duck into the billys for a minute or two. It is a novel way to safely feed these colourful and sweet little birds.
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  • Burke and Wills Roadhouse.

    July 27, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    The trip down from Gregory has been quite easy. We are travelling at a maximum of 80 kph to ensure the piece of blue tarp stuck over the missing rear window stays in place. So far, so good. At least we have done the dusty, dirt, corrugation section from Boodjamulla back to Gregory.

    The windows in the van did release and open enough to dust it all quite badly though. Big clean up yesterday afternoon. I shook quite a red cloud out of my bedding.

    Now I heard someone thinking, "what happened to the back window?" Interesting story. It happened on the way from Gregory to Boodjamulla. We had done the 20k of sealed road at the Gregory end, then several bits of gravel and short sealed sections. As we mounted another nice bitumen section another vehicle went past.

    All good so far. About 300m after we passed the vehicle there was a loud kaaa-booom. We had no idea what it was but I immediately abandoned my clever plan to go a little faster on the good road. Checking my rear view I now had a crystal clear view of part of the van behind I had not been able to see for days for the layers of dust on the rear window.

    Mystery solved as to the what, but we still have no idea why. There were no stones, not even scattering under our own wheels. The other vehicle long past by then All I can speculate is a catastrophic failure of the glass panel. Such thing have been spoken of but usually it is believed to be a delayed break after stone damage.

    We spent over half an hour clearing as much broken glass as we could and then wedging in a tarp to keep most of the dust our for the next 60 or so Kilometers we still had to go to Boodjamulla.

    We have just had confirmation that a new rear window is waiting to be fitted when we get to Mt Isa on Friday. Until then we are hoping the duct tape hangs in.

    Just a short distance south of the roadhouse we were lucky enough to see a brown Falcon perched in a tree.
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