Italy

January 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Trockie's Treks Read more
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  • Day 52

    Spoleto & Spello

    March 10, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Well today it is overcast but not crazy cold and rain isn't predicted so hopefully that will hold out to be true.

    I am going to 2 towns today as neither has any "huge" sights and are mainly just known as pretty Umbrian hilltowns. I guess when you have the Alps in part of your country, you can't call these "mountain towns" as it might seem like an exaggeration, however in the south we would definitely term them as mountains.

    I arrived in Spoleto first and, yet again, there was no tourist information at the train station. I had read that you needed to take a bus into the historic center and purchased my ticket from the little convenience store in the station. When I asked the woman at the store which bus to take, she said she didn't know and it wasn't because she didn't speak English (she did) it was because she didn't know about the buses. Are you kidding me? You sell bus tickets all day and live in the little town and you have no idea? Seriously?

    I finally figured out which bus and took it up to the historic area. The girl at the tourist info center was nice and gave me a map as well and I set out walking with the aid of the map and Google maps- thanks SIM card! That said, Google maps is not the easiest to use here when walking. I find it has a slightly hard time following you for some reason and often there is not signage as to the names of roads, so it is a bit of a guessing game at times. I managed to find my way around and took a nice walk and mainly just caught the outside of the sights and enjoyed the local scenery. Then I decided it was time to head to Spello. I arrived back at the tourist info center and bus stop around 2:00 and it was closed. Closed at 2:00 on a Saturday... really? And no, I don't think it was just for the midday break, although I guess it is possible. From what I could discern, it didn't seem as though another bus was coming for about 2 hours, so I decided to start walking downhill, figuring I'd eventually find the train station and/or someone who could point me in the right direction. Unfortunately my phone battery had died and the map was challenging due to a lack of road signage. I looked around for a taxi but there were none.

    I walked. And walked. And walked. And then I walked some more. I met some folks along the way but either they didn't speak English or they had no idea where to go because they were not from the town. EVENTUALLY I came across a hotel and they pointed me in the right direction, which I had actually been traveling already. I finally arrived at a bus stop and 2 buses stopped and said mine would be along in 10 minutes. Finally about :30 later a bus did come and it took me to the train station!

    I arrived in Spello and yep, you guessed it, no tourist information. I found someone who pointed me in the right direction, which was basically just pointing skyward and said "up there". I asked if there was a bus and he said "It's not so bad. Just a little way." So I did some more walking. While it was an uphill trudge a fair way, it wasn't so bad and the historic area was very quaint once you arrived there. I basically spent my time in Spello just meandering amongst the cobblestone alleys and seeing the local color. They have an annual contest in Spello in the springtime to see who has the prettiest flower pot displays at their home and I could see evidence of the fact that people are really into it, unfortunately mainly just empty pots at this point. That said, I bet it is gorgeous when the contest is taking place. Almost as nice as mine possibly...

    Before leaving the train station in Spello, I had noted what times the trains returning to the town where I am staying were departing this evening and saw that I had a choice between one leaving just a few minutes before 7:00 or having to wait until shortly after 9:00. Since I was going to be moving hotels/towns tomorrow, I decided I definitely wanted to catch the 7:00 train. Well it was dark on my walk out of the town and I got disoriented and my phone was dead and I never obtained a map of Spello as the tourist info wasn't open when I arrived. So once again it was walk, walk, walk and TRY to find someone who spoke English. I found no one but a few old Italian ladies did their darndest to explain how to get there, in detail in Italian. I now know what I must sound like to my dogs... I finally found a young couple and their baby who spoke broken English and they pointed me in the direction: across parking lots, a soccer field, through a neighborhood and over the river, through the woods and almost to Grandma's house. I was walking through one neighborhood when a car quickly drove up next to me and stopped. It was the young couple and they offered me a ride. They must know hopeless when they see it. The train was due to arrive in less than 5 minutes and I really didn't want to have to wait until 9:00 (particularly since I was now out of the cute part of town) so I got in and they drove me to the train station. I gave them my sincerest thanks and ran into the station and bought a ticket. For once I was thankful that Italian trains consistently run late because predictably it was and I made it there with about 4 minutes to spare and caught the train back to Foligno! So sometimes late is a good thing.

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  • Day 53

    This Is Us; Italian Version

    March 11, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    So here's a pretty typical experience in Italy over 24 hours...

    We'll start with last night-

    My hotel was supposed to have a guest computer but something happened to it (probably a guest smashed it out of frustration with all things Italy) but the owner said I could use their office computer and sends me into their office. My brother's office was more organized and comfortable and his was a mess. You would not believe the absolute POS office chair they had. Incredibly uncomfortable and that comes from me, clearly not the person who thinks furniture is generally uncomfortable. So I use the computer to draft a list of things to see over the next few days and some notes on a Word document and go to print it out. Well I did not know he had loaded some receipt paper in the printer and when he heard the printer go off, he came rushing in the room screaming No! No! No! and got all upset. You would have thought I had printed all over his daughter's wedding invitations just before they were to be mailed. I said "sorry I didn't know" and he just kept shaking his head and exclaiming how this couldn't happen. NEVER said, "Well I realize you didn't know" "It's my fault, I should have told you..."

    So after that I go to this restaurant that is really close to the hotel and is good and cheap and I have already eaten there twice before. It is always full of locals and not tourists but then again the town I am staying in is not a big tourist destination, it was just easiest as a base due to its proximity to the train station. So I walk in and the woman starts yelling in Italian that they can't serve me and basically waves me off. So since I only wanted one of their pizzas I ask if I can get one to-go. She doesn't understand and keeps waving me off and finally a local explains to her. She gets exasperated like I have asked if they can whip me up a baked Alaska and yells back at the kitchen and owner and he finally says OK so then I am made to stand there and wait for the damn pizza. Meanwhile I notice that their other room only has 1 couple in it AND there are 2 waitresses this night as opposed to just 1 as was the case on all the previous visits. In not too long they shove my pizza at me and say bye!

    So this morning I get to the train station on time and get my ticket and get on a train. Halfway to my destination I have to switch trains with about a 30 minute layover. So I get off at the correct station and, of course I have to get to another track. Another track which requires going below one level and back up BUT there's NO ELEVATOR or escalator. So for people with luggage, babies in strollers or, God forbid a disabled person in a wheelchair, tough shit. So I lug my bag down the stairs and back up.

    I arrive at my final station and, since my hotel is only 1.5 blocks and 10 minutes away, I decide to walk. So I use Google maps and head to my hotel but end up going the wrong way, UPHILL, and then it starts to pour rain. So I trudge downhill with my bag along a shitty sidewalk with rain running like a river and get soaked. Oh and it's like 55-60 degrees. I find the street to my hotel and it's back uphill again. These are like San Francisco hills BTW. I finally get to my hotel, looking like a drowned rat, and they hardly acknowledge my existence. I explain who I am and they say "Well your room is not ready yet." So I stand there because I don't want to get their furniture soaking wet and they say, "We'll let you know when it's ready." One of the owners is presiding over the breakfast that is there for guests and I finally ask him if I could take a glass of water and he says "sure" and also offers me coffee. After about 15 minutes they get me a room, hand me a keyring and show me the way there, which is across the street. One of the owners did help me with my bag, which was nice because the room is on the 2nd floor and there are no elevators.

    Enroute to my new town, Orvieto, I noticed that the sole of my hiking boot was coming off, so I asked the hotel owner if there was a shoe repair place where I could get it repaired tomorrow. She says no. I say what about a place where I can buy some glue. She says that won't work. She then proceeds to tell me I have to buy new ones and tells me how her shoes are really good and I should get some like them and they cost about 120 euros, so like $150. There is no offer to go on the internet or call to try and find me a repair solution.

    So I get settled and set off exploring. I had read about how to get around and got way up the mountain into the historical part of town without incident and headed straight towards the tourist information (TI) center. I noticed that the "Underground Orvieto" tour office is right next to the Tourist Office, so I made a note to go there next. I go into the TI and ask about walking tours or tours of the churches other than the Underground tour and the lady says "Yes there are some but you have to ask the lady next door, she has a list on her door." So I go back to the Underground tour and by my ticket for that and I ask the lady there about this list and she says "No, you have to ask the tourist information next door." To which I of course reply "I did and she told me to ask you."She indicates that this isn't right and waves me off. So no help there. Both office then close for the 2 hour midday break. So suck it tourists, if you need help or want to see anything between the hours of 12:30-2:30 in Italy, you are SOL and then things are going to close between 4-6 in the evening. God forbid you sleep in on vacation. Oh and it's generally not easy to go back to your hotel and take a nap because most of them are down at the bottom of the mountain and your transport bus cards are only good for 90 minutes. So you will have to pay to go both down and up for that nap, if you wanted to join in the midday break.

    Later I am touring the Duomo (cathedral) the surly Italian guide takes my ticket. No welcome, thank you, do you have any questions, etc. Just takes the money and ignores you. I ask if there are any tours or guides and he scowls and shakes his head no. As Iam looking around, I notice there are these phone box looking things in different areas of the church and lo & behold they are audio in 4 different languages that tell you about things in different parts of the church. No bother to mention that buy the ticket guy. God forbid they help you out, You'd think they'd want to earn more money for the church. Better yet, since it is a place of God you think they might be gracious and helpful. The stupid audio things cost 2 euros, so about $2.50 each to listen to, so that could easily add another $10 to the church coffers.

    It's raining out again so I decide to call it a day and head back to the hotel. I get to my building and pull out the key ring with 3 keys, none of which anyone has bothered to explain to me. None of the keys work to open the door and I am getting soaked. (Forgot to mention that umbrella I bought was great but I left it somewhere) So I go to the office and no one is there. Eventually one of the owners strolls in and I explain the key doesn't work and ask them to explain it to me. She looks at the keys I am holding and says No! These are not your keys! Where are your keys? Cue the Twilight Zone music... I say "Well these are the only keys I have. This is what I was given." She says "No! WHere are YOUR keys?" I'm thinking, what does she think that I can somehow magically make random hotel keys appear in my purse? We do the verbal key tango about 3-4 times and So I then I empty out my purse and lo and behold I do have another set. How I got the extra set I have no idea but they must have given them to me at some point. Anyway I then ask her about the 3 keys and what they do and she explains that one is for the front door, one is for my room. And then I ask about the 3rd key and she looks at me like I am a stark-raving idiot and says "it's for the garage!" On the way out I noticed an internet code posted, which no one had bothered to share with me. THere's none of that, "Welcome to Hotel.... Let me show you to your room and explain how everything works..." There's also little heat in this hotel but at least it is spacious by Italy standards and there are extra blankets,

    I am getting back at Italy though... I am using the big flush button on ALL their toilets everywhere I go. Screw them. LOL

    A couple of people have indicated to me that things are better in the big cities, so we'll see. Things were fairly good in Milan.

    Also I met a really nice guy from N Dakota, who is here on a college trip. He is originally from Liberia. Seemingly great guy and he said we should visit Liberia. Note LIBERIA not Libya! LOL Anyway, his impressions are similar and, like the Australians, he thinks the no speaking of English is purposeful. I didn't prompt him either, he mentioned that on his own.

    So there's a typical 24 hrs. here... and the night is young

    And this is why I may go to Paris for my last 10 days of the trip. It's pretty bad when I am thinking of preferring the French to your country. At least the art is spectacular and the scenery is often pretty.
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  • Day 54

    Orvieto

    March 12, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I changed my home base yesterday and I am now in Orvieto. The good news is the funicular that takes you to the historic center is located just outside the train station so that makes things much easier. My hotel was also near the train. I got my things settled and headed into the old town.

    Orvieto is a town that is formed on top of a layer of tufa, which is a softer, porous type of volcanic stone. It was established by the Etruscans and at one time they lived underground here. There is a tour of the ancient underground, so I went there first as it was just about to begin when I arrived. The tour showed you where they pressed olive oil, the well and where they kept pigeons. Each house had a pigeon keep. There were also places where you could see stairs leading up to where the house was above the pigeon keep but no house excavations were shown, so I guess there aren't any. I hope to try pigeon whi.e I am here as there are supposedly a couple of places that cook it.

    After the underground tour, I went and had lunch at a local trattoria. I had some cured venison that was really good and almost literallly melted in your mouth and a very good roulade of rabbit with a side of spinach.

    Speaking of food, European breakfasts continue to be the weak point- cold cuts and pastries with no eggs or anything hot making an appearance. At least their coffee choices are plentiful. Italian breakfast cakes tend to routinely be dry and bland. Evidently just a variant taste from our preferences. That said, they do go to a fair amount of trouble to make them appealing looking.

    After lunch I headed to Orvieto's Duomo. Talk about a mega church! It is pretty massive. I believe it took about 300 years to complete. The outside has very ornate decoration, both sculpture and paintings. The inside also has some beautiful frescoes by Luca Signorelli that depict mainly end-times themes. He is one of the artists by whom Michelangelo was inspired. The artwork throughout the church was so abundant and overwhelming that I may return for a second visit if time allows.

    Today I got up and took a touring break to do some laundry. I hate having to take the time to do it but with a trip this long, it is unavoidable. The laundromat here is amall: 4 washing machines and 2 dryers and you have to wait to put your laundry in between loads that they are doing for their laundry service. It's also a little pricey compared to our laundromats- about $10 per load to wash and another $4 to dry. At least it includes the soap. The lady that runs the place was nice and showed me how to program and use the machines which was great because I don't know that I would have figured it out myself. The soap is contained within the machine somehow and you go over to one wall to insert your money and select your machine and then the machine itself to select temperature and then back to the wall to select start and then back to the machine to press a button and make it start. Confusing.

    After my laundry was done and I walked it back to my hotel, I went back up to the old town and walked around a bit; bought a new umbrella and had pigeon for dinner. I figured I'd see what the Etruscan fare was like while I had a chance. Answer is it was OK but not much meat and somewhat gamey tasting. It's a dark meat. Mine was covered with this olive puree, which while it didn't make for an aesthetically pleasing dish, it did help the flavor and lessened the gamey taste. So I can scratch pigeon off my list. No need to have it again. I also had a glass of their local wine and I have to say that Orvieto wine is pretty decent. Actually all the wine in Italy has been decent. Some is better than others but none of it has given me any allergy problems, a sign for me that it's decent.
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  • Day 58

    Rome

    March 16, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I got to Rome a couple of days ago and the good news is the people here are nice and helpful. My hotel is great and with the exception of having spacious rooms, offers pretty much everything you could want. Rome is to Italy something like what New York is to us, so I should not anticipate there would be spacious rooms.

    Most of what I have done this far has been to go on walking tours. I did see the inside of the Pantheon and a couple of interesting churches. There's plenty of art and history to be seen here and I would say there's more here for the individual interested in history than anything.

    I am finding it's more difficult to find one's way around here because of all the buildings and the fact that the roads go in all different directions with no grid system. Also there are only 2 metro lines which means that the sights aren't all accessible by the metro but rather a large bus network which is also a challenge to navigate. For this reason I have largely been walking and walking and walking. I'd like to say Google maps has been a huge help but even it seems to be challenged to direct a clear-cut walking path. Plus it tends to eat up phone battery time.

    Tourism is alive and well in Rome. Unfortunately that means lots of "souvenir" shops lining the streets all selling pretty much the same junk. There's also an abundance of hustlers selling selfie sticks, bus tours and other stuff they are hassling you to buy. I just completely ignore their existence and find myself left alone. Unfortunately I see tons of tourists that get stop and hassled because they fall for answering their questions. I have not seen many real artists selling things which sort of surprises me. There are several individuals selling "watercolor" paintings but they are actually prints that people are being duped into buying. Either that or their are multiple artists painting the EXACT same scenes, in the exact same style and colors around Rome- LOL.

    The other thing you see plenty of in Rome is clothing shops. I haven't checked any prices as I'm not interested but if you were there is plenty of great fashion to be found lining the streets.

    There are some street performers here & there. A couple of very good ones. It's always interesting to me how many people will stand around and enjoy them, take pictures, clap, etc. but never donate any money as a show of appreciation. If everyone who enjoyed them even offered up as little as a quarter it would make a big difference in the income realized for such performances. I don't get why people can't do that for the ones they enjoy.

    I am glad I did my research and purchased tickets in advance for all these sights. The lines at places like the Colosseum are ENORMOUS. I have heard people discussing the fact that they spend 1/2 their day waiting in line to get into a sight. Definitely not ones idea of fun on a vacation.

    After today you will probably not hear from me very often during the next two weeks as they are super packed but I will be checking emails.
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