• DaveMc

Europe 2019

This trip has been in the making for several years, with the stars finally aligning to make it possible, and the first payment made 18 months ago. Leggi altro
  • Lyon - just not as expected

    23 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our next stop is Lyon, with a change of trains in Paris, though opposite sides of Paris. The man in seat 61 (seat61.com) has every thing you need to know about getting from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, the station in Paris for the train to Lyon, not to be confused with either of the Gares in Lyon which often pop up in searches for Gare de Lyon.The man has even done a video, so there are no surprises. We bought first class as the man suggested. For only a few euros extra, we got bigger, more comfortable seats with more legroom and easier luggage storage.

    Not surprising, our transfer across Paris went quite smoothly. The train across Paris was pretty crowded but probably quite normal for lunch time in Paris on a week day. We had allowed plenty of time so still plenty of time for a stress free lunch.

    We caught our TGV train from Gare de Lyon just a few hours after the main Ghostrider group caught theirs, though they went on to Avignon where we will catch up with them to start my first cycling tour in France.

    We arrived in Lyon on time and found our accommodation. We have a one bedroom apartment for our stay here. We didn't expect that the bedroom to also be the living room and only ever so slightly larger than the bed.

    We missed the bit about only stairway access to upper levels, something we try hard to avoid. But you get stairs sometimes getting in an out of stations so I can cope with that even with 2 suitcases. But 5 floors of fairly narrow spiral stairs is a bit more demanding. I don't know how the suitcases will make their way up.

    But at least we have a washing machine (hiding in the wardrobe), a microwave and a fridge so we can get real milk for a decent coffee at last, even if it is instant coffee. But better still, we also have a Nespresso for an even better coffee.

    It's going to be a very cosy time here, tripping over each other and everything else but, hey, we have coffee!
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  • Lyon - just as expected

    24 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Once out of our apartment, Lyon is just as expected - boulangeries, patisseries, brasseries, (the position of the i is important) and cathedrals, including, of course, a Notre Dame.

    Lyon's Notre Dame de Fourviere dominates the western skyline, perched high on a hill rising steeply from the River Saone, steep enough for a funicular railway. It makes a fabulous place from which to gaze over the City.Leggi altro

  • Lyon - more just as expected

    25 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Exploring Fourviere - the part of Lyon on the western side of the River Saone, home to the Notre Dame de Fourviere Cathedral that dominates the Lyon skyline.

    Two funicular railway lines start side by side at the foot of the hill, one going to Notre Dame and the other to the Roman ruins. It was at the Roman Theatre I tried my best Friends, Romans Countrymen but struggled without any friends or Aussies an the Romans had come and gone.

    At the bottom of the hill is Lyon's other cathedral, the Cathedral de Lyon, aka Cathedrale de Saint Jean Baptiste.
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  • Lyon - expect the unexpected

    26 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I enjoy wandering around foreign cities just to see what's different from home. Even visiting a supermarket can be an adventure, finding things you have never heard of, not finding things you expected would be everywhere and labels in another language so you don't know what the heck it is.

    Some of the metro trains have no driver and some of the buses are trams with rubber wheels. Statues keep popping up anywhere and some buildings are not what they seem - the two walls of the building pictured here actually have no doors or windows, no ledges and no people, just some paint, except for my lovely wife being leered at by the Frenchman painted behind her.

    Lyon has numerous wall painting works of art scattered around the city. This is the first we have seen.
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  • Lyon - part two, Part Dieu

    27 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    No, Part Dieu does not mean part two. It is a part of Lyon, on the eastern side of the River Rhone. most famous to travellers for its railway station. Literally, it means For God. Time for us to explore this half of Lyon.

    Our main objective of the day is Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse - an indoor market (halls) established by Paul Bocuse. We arrived by electric bus, some sort of hybrid between a bus and a tram.

    The market has fresh fruit & veg, meat, fish, cheese, etc like most markets. What this has that is different to those at home are the range and shape of breads - very rare to see a rectangular loaf like ours, the cakes and pastries and, most importantly, the chocolates. It would be very easy not to fit through the door when you've finished here. I controlled myself very well, I don't want to sink the boat next week.

    As we headed down the street from Les Halles, we found a barber shop not too busy so this was to become the first time I have had my hair cut by someone with whom I don't share a common language. I can count at least to 10 in French so it shouldn't be too hard to get the message across regarding what number clippers to use, should it? Let's just say that I will save money on shampoo for the rest of the trip. The next day, while wandering through another part of town, we noticed several barber shops, all with more attractive barbers. It was almost worth another haircut, if only I had any hair left.

    As we travelled further east towards Part Dieu railway station, we reached a shopping centre more like Eastland at home and a supermarket more like Coles than the 7eleven look alike we've had to settle for lately. This Carrefour was more like Coles and Kmart combined.

    We finally reached the Part Dieu station to catch the Metro back. We be back here in a few days to catch our train to Avignon where a bicycle awaits.
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  • To scoot or not to scoot?

    28 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Time to discuss the elephant in the room, or on the continent to be more accurate - Electric scooters. These are whizzing around all over Europe. Is it a good thing or not and why?

    Clearly, they are an easy and convenient way to travel short distances around town, more environment friendly than by car but less friendly than by public transport, cycling or walking.

    As was found with dockless shared bike schemes, cities are being flooded with dockless e-scooters and, people being idiots, they get left all over the place and bigger idiots consider it art to steal and vandalize them, often with public support through friendly publicity.

    But let's put aside the issues of share schemes that also relate to bicycles, let's focus on some issues specifically about scooters.

    The main problems I see with them are:

    1. They are too fast. They are not motor bikes. Motor scooters should have the motor capped at, I think, 15kph. If you want to go faster, get a motor bike, even if it's just one of those cute little ones.

    2. They are ridden mostly by joy riders and thrill seekers. They don't appreciate the importance of safety, the safety of themselves and, more importantly, the safety of everyone else. They don't have two-wheeled road sense - awareness and anticipation of what's going on around them.

    I saw a scooter rider ride through a red light into a cyclist in Copenhagen. "Sorry" he said but i doubt he meant it nor cared while the cyclist was left to deal with the damage to self and bike.
    I was almost wiped out by a scooter rider running a red light while I was walking across with the green. Cars had stopped but the scooter rider was looking to the other side. Not only did he run the red, he wasn't even watching where he was going nor looking to see what's coming. Idiot.

    Point 2 above is the product of being too fast and too readily available to those ill prepared. The role of electric scooters on roads and paths should be as a means to commute, more in harmony with leisure cyclists.

    My conclusions are that
    there is a place for them,
    Speed should be capped at about 15,
    Shared schemes should use docking stations, which is still not the ideal solution but necessary until someone can work out a way to solve the littering and vandalism problems, and
    They should be treated as per leisure/commute cycling.

    At the moment, they are a nuisance due to too many inconsiderate idiots using them. As is so often the case, the brainless few ruin good things for everyone else.
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  • Lyon - can drive you canuts.

    30 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    The canuts were Lyonnais silk workers, often working on Jacquard looms. They were primarily found in the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood of Lyon in the 19th century. The Croix-Rousse area is a high point north of the city, between the Saone and Rhone rivers with some lovely views over Lyon, if you can manage the climb up a gazillion steps.

    We cheated, we caught the metro which in this case is actually a funicular railway- too steep in places to maintain traction so has cogs to stop the train plummeting down the track to an abrupt end.

    The main lure to this fascinating part of Lyon is another wall mural, one of many scattered across Lyon. In my opinion, this one takes the title as the best. A very large, very flat and near lifeless concrete wall of a building once sat prominently at a road junction, on display for all to see, it could not be missed. In the 1980s they saw this extremely bland wall as a canvas to display the fine art that this city possesses.

    Over the 30 years since, it has gone through a few evolutions to the awesome piece it is today. As you walk from the Metro, you see a group of buildings with a massive stairway in the middle, a scene very typical of this area. As you get closer, you know it is a mural but the few small, real windows start to do your head in, trying to figure out what is real and what is paint.
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  • Lyon - Adieu

    30 agosto 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today is our last full day in Lyon, a bicycle awaits in Avignon for the next chapter.

    It has been a fascinating week. Lyon has both ancient and modern art on display for all to see and experience. It has hills, big hills, which means lots of steps rewarded with fabulous views. You can join the hustle and bustle of busy streets, busy shopping, busy eating, busy life or sit peacefully in a park or on a hilltop and feel tranquility amidst this busy city.

    Tomorrow, it's another train trip which means finding seats and somewhere for our luggage, then relax a while and watch the countryside pass by. Perhaps most of all, it means no more climbing these damned spiral stairs to our apartment that has been home for the last week.
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  • Avignon- the cycling begins

    1 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Avignon was once the home of the Catholic Church. It has the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) adjacent to the cathedral, Notre Dame des Doms d'Avignon. The entire city is a mix of original or restored buildings and some newer ones. It has the wall all around though the gates remain open and a few more access points cut through.

    The city lies adjacent to the River Rhone which we followed all the way down from Lyon. On the northern side of the city lies another and most recognizable landmark, the Pont d'Avignon, a bridge now only reaching 2/3 across the River.

    The day started with our cycling group collecting and adjusting our bikes, then setting off on a leisurely ride on mostly secluded roads through farmland. We passed through a number of villages before returning to Avignon. Most notable of these was Villeneuve Les Avignon, famous for its cake shop. It also has a cathedral Notre Dame du val de Benediction and the castle Fort Saint Andre, which was the home of the Cardinals.
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  • Pleasant times cycling in France.

    2 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Day 2 on the bike was to Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct built around 50AD, west of Avignon. It is a massive structure, built to supply water for the town of Nimes. It was always going to be a highlight of the trip.

    Day 3 was on the east side me of the Rhone. After a ride alongside the Rhone, the important first stop was the boulangerie at Barbentane gateaux were popular. From there, we headed to the Abbaye Saint-Michel de Frigolet for our lunch stop and on to Boulbon for a look around town and time for a crème glacée.

    This part of France is known for bushfires. From the boat, we saw 4 water bombers flying one behind the other to scoop water from the Rhone almost beside us.
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  • A big day on the bike

    4 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 4 was one of our longest days of cycling. Whilst no longer than a normal ride at home, the heat, the wind, the heavier bike and the hill all added to the challenge, made a little harder by being the 4th consecutive day cycling after none at all for 7 weeks.

    After the climb, we visited Carrières de Lumières, a light show projected on to the walls of an old, underground bauxite mine. I was more impressed by the light show at Amiens Cathedral. We then dod a short visit to Les Baux and finished the day at Arles.
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  • Arles to Aigues Mortes.

    5 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 5 was an easier day. We started with a "free tour" of the city of Arles. Although officially free, a tip of whatever you think the tour was worth is expected.

    We saw the huge bull ring. Every town in this part of France has a bull ring. Bull fighting season is in full swing so towns have festivals to go with it.

    Arles also has a Roman Theatre though not open to the public like the one in Lyon.

    Vincent Van Gough spent some time in Arles. There is a copy of his "Café Terrace at Night" displayed in front of the cafe it depicted which is now called the "Cafe de nuit" which is the title of another Van Gough painting though that one depicts the interior of a different cafe.

    Then it was back on the bikes for a short ride to Saint Gilles to catch up to the boat and then cruise to Aigues Mortes.
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  • Aigues Mortes

    6 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Day 6 is the longest of our rides, still only 60km with no significant hills but a strong wind made us work harder. This is also the last ride of our tour de Provence. We're on the edge of the Camargue National Park, hoping to see wild white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos and take a dip in the Mediterranean.

    No pic but we did see black bulls so tick off that one.
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  • Au revoir

    7 settembre 2019, Francia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    It's time to say farewell to our boat that has been our home for the last week, to my bike that has carried me through the French countryside for the last 6 days, to Aigues Mortes, a charming little town at the end of our cycling tour and to France where we've spent the last 3 weeks. We also say farewell for now to our Ghostrider companions as they continue their tour de France along the Loire River.Leggi altro

  • Geneva non-Convention

    8 settembre 2019, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This is the first time in Geneva for both of us. The third train of our journey on Saturday from Aigues Mortes arrived in Geneva about 6:30pm and we depart on our final rail trip on Monday morning giving us a full day to look around Geneva, being Dimanche (Sunday), most shops and many other things are closed.

    Hotels in Geneva provide free public transport cards for guests. We made good use of it.

    First objectives were to see the big water fountain on the lake and to take a couple of free rides across the lake with our transit cards. Nothing much to see at the end so we jumped on the next bus back to the city centre.

    Geneva some interesting sculptures scattered across the city. We saw some of them. The big broken chair looked interesting so we jumped on a tram to take a look. It doesn't matter what reason you have to go somewhere, the journey is an adventure and often brings surprises.

    After the chair and the United Nations building across the road, we jumped on an electric bus to go to the old town. Like most old towns, it has narrow streets, a Hotel de Ville (City Hall) and a Cathedral all of course on the top of a steep hill.

    We jumped on another tram to head back to the city centre but after heading towards the city, it turned to head out the other side. Oops. The return trip was not wasted, I got to see almost life sized chess games in progress in the park.

    After dinner and packing for our departure in the morning, we decided there was time to walk back down to the lake to see the water fountain lit up after dark. We took a slightly different route and were quite surprised to find that our hotel was beside a thriving red light district. About half the shops were selling bongs and I don't care what else, and the rest were selling human services. There were ladies on the street every where and in red lounges with the curtains open. The blokes standing around seemed to be pimps.

    Life is full of surprises.
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  • Getting to Zurich

    9 settembre 2019, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Inter city train travel is quite a pleasant way to go as long as you don't have suitcases. I'm very glad we didn't bring our big one. Some trains have narrow doors and a few steep steps to test your agility and strength, both of which some days just don't work. Perhaps it's the lack of a good coffee in the morning. Once aboard, you have to find somewhere to stow them. The overhead shelves seem to be getting higher or perhaps the suitcases are getting heavier. Some trains have a small luggage space with shelves and it's usually only the top shelf that is vacant.

    This is our last intercity rail journey. Fortunately, this train had a gentle step to negotiate. We were second onto our carriage, the lady ahead used the prime bottom shelf but second shelf was adequate for both our suitcases and we easily found good seats so this was probably the easiest boarding of all. Time now to sit back and enjoy the Swiss scenery.
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  • Au revoir, auf weidersehen or whatever

    10 settembre 2019, Svizzera ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    One thing you notice as your train gets closer to Zurich is that the announcements become German instead of French. This has been doing my head in ever since. I have to keep reminding myself that I'm still in Switzerland, not Germany. I'm still using Swiss francs, not euros and certainly not Deutsch marks. I have to remember to say danke instead of merci. I finish up speaking one third French, a third German and a third English in one sentence. It's driving me crazy.

    The other things you notice anywhere in Switzerland are Swiss flags, Switzerland is way more modern/hi tech than anywhere I have seen and that everything is really expensive. Luckily, we're leaving tomorrow, we couldn't afford to stay longer.

    Over the last 7 weeks, we've been in 7 countries with 6 languages and 5 currencies. One country with another language and another currency awaits us before returning to Aus.

    So it's time to say au revoir, auf wiedersehen, dovidenja, farvel, tot aliens and adjo to Europe for 2019.
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  • In the air tonight

    11 settembre 2019, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    No, nothing to do with Phil Collins, everything to do with a night on an A380 in Premium Economy class.

    This has been my best long haul flight ever. We left Zurich at about noon, on a 12 hour flight to Singapore. With 6hrs time zone shift, we arrive about 6am. Two thirds of the trip is in darkness.

    It's been several years since I've been on an A380 and the first time in Premium Economy. Why premium? For some unknown reason, when I was booking, premium economy was cheaper than standard economy.

    Premium economy on the Singapore Airlines A380 is at the pointy end of the lower deck, well before the noisy bit. With noise reducing headphones issued, wider seats and oodles of leg and knee room, this was a very smooth and comfortable ride. You almost forget you're on a plane except for some turbulence off the east coast of India that almost spilled my drink. There's also priority check in, more choice of meals and your luggage gets out quicker at the other end.

    Of course, business class or first class would be better but that will have to wait until I win lotto.
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  • Singapore fling

    12 settembre 2019, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Getting closer to home. For us, any trip to Europe or Asia has a mandatory stopover in Singapore for family time and to eat Singaporean food.

    Having been here about 17 times, there aren't many things to see that haven't already been seen multiple times. However, there is one new one to see - Jewel at Changi Airport.

    Jewel is a massive indoor waterfall, 5 storeys high, surrounded by major shopping and dining. The waterfall starts as an nwards facing, circular waterfall, falling into the centre of another waterfall that is water cascading down the inside of a clear perspex, circular wall that narrows as it descends, i.e. a vortex shape. This is surrounded by a vertical garden with multiple, small waterfalls. The T2-T3 Skytrain runs through it, so if you are only transiting through Singapore airport and have a little spare time, you can take the Skytrain back and forth to see it, though won't be able to get out for a closer look.

    The biggest change I noticed in Singapore was the absence of share bikes. Just a year ago, they saturated the city centre and where also in large numbers scattered around the island. There were numerous companies competing for business. But now they are all gone. The government put restrictions and taxes on them, making them unviable businesses.

    There are still eScooters zipping around though not the numbers I saw in Europe. Here, they are restricted to footpaths. My opinion remains unchanged, they are too fast making them dangerous.

    It's mooncake time on the Chinese calendar, so we were given some to join in.

    Back in the days of getting around Singapore with toddlers and pushers, we found Singapore quite unfriendly to those on wheels. They seemed to put steps in wherever they could whether they were needed or not. Things have improved over the years since. However, as we get older and some of us getting weaker knees, focus returns on unnecessary steps. One of the nearby subway stations is the deepest in Singapore, having 3 escalators just to reach the ticket level and then more, long escalators down to platform level. So why do we need to go up 10 steps from street level when we're going down so far?

    This is the time of year that forest land on Sumatra (Indonesia) gets set alight to clear land for farming. Malaysia and Singapore are innocent victims having periods of very high smoke haze with associated health issues. It is a shame that this practice continues as our planet is becoming increasingly unable to deal with the impact of mankind's destruction. Sadly, Australia is also a participant in this stupid practice, putting more money in rich people's pockets being more important than a good world for our grandchildren.
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  • Ghostrider adventure at Pulau Ubin

    15 settembre 2019, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    While some Ghostriders are currently cruising down the Loire valley in France, some more exotic locations are sometimes sought.

    Pulau Ubin is a Singaporean island wedged in the Johore Strait between Singapore's main island and Malaysia. The island is more like 1960s Singapore. The island is used mostly for walking and cycling. Access is by small bumboats and bikes are usually hired on the island, just don't have high expectations on the quality. Gear changing is not as smooth as I am used to but it works more often than not. Whilst the seat rattles a bit, it's nothing to be concerned about, the raffia and wire do a reasonably good job of holding the seat in place most of the time.

    Cyclists are treated to a mix of sealed and gravel roads and off road adventures in the Ketam Mountain Bike Park. Nature lovers can explore mangrove swamps and bushland with an exotic assortment of flora and fauna.

    Monkeys great you along the road much like a Pyrenees mountain top finish in the Tour de France, though they are sometimes more interested in intimate dancing with their partner in the middle of the road rather than showing any interest in approaching cyclists.

    Wild boar sometimes hog the road. You may have to duck as hornbills fly across the path. Whilst they are carnivorous, the monitor lizards are unlikely to harm you as long as you don't run over them.

    A day on Pulau Ubin has plenty to offer, just no air conditioning to escape Singapore's relentless heat and humidity.
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  • The eagle has landed

    16 settembre 2019, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    After 9 countries with 7 languages and 7 currencies in 57 days, our journey comes to an end.

    We had an awesome time in Croatia, seeing it through the eyes of Croatians. We had a hectic but fascinating couple of weeks through Scandinavia, Germany and the Netherlands before slowing the pace with three weeks in France. We had 3 interesting days in Switzerland to cool off after the hot, windy cycling in Provence, before returning to sweltering, sweaty Singapore.

    But we look forward now to getting back to our family, burying our suitcases, sleeping in our own beds and having good coffee. Then we have to relearn what is normal life. My email tells me it's back on the bike on Thursday.
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    Fine del viaggio
    16 settembre 2019