• DaveMc
Jul – Sep 2019

Europe 2019

This trip has been in the making for several years, with the stars finally aligning to make it possible, and the first payment made 18 months ago. Read more
  • Trip start
    July 22, 2019

    Let the adventure begin

    July 22, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Day 1 means getting to the airport, check in, security and customs, all much improved with little waiting so you can get to the gate quicker so you can wait longer there. Far more civilised, even made a new friend. Then sit on planes for 24hrs.Read more

  • Senj

    July 24, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    For centuries, Senj was the major city and port in the region, with a strong fort, walled city and determined people. They held off Venetian forces from the north and Ottoman forces from the south.
    Its downfall as the major town was the railway, too hard to build to here so trade moved to a port the railway reached.
    The old fortress on the top of the hill is a dominant landmark. Below this is the old town, well worth wandering through.
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  • A day of life on the Croatian coast

    July 25, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    A day on the Croatian coast starts with coffee, of course. Then it's time for a swim. By then, it's time for lunch. What do you do after lunch? Watch the yachts race passed at snail speed, then go for a swim. Before you know it, it's beer o'clock. After that, sit back and watch the sunset, guess where the planes above are flying from and to, watch the stars, spot the satellites and, if you're lucky, maybe a meteor.
    What do you do the next day? The same all over again. It's a tough life.
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  • Krk

    July 26, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    From Senj, we gaze every day at Croatia's largest island, quite popular for summer holidays for people from nearby countries. Today was time to visit. The island has several towns, dating back hundreds of years.

    Australians can only have utes, SUVs and V8s, according to our Prime Minister, so they can haul their caravans to their favourite camping site every weekend so any infrastructure to support electric cars is laughable. What a goose. Meanwhile, in the tiny, ancient city of Vrbik, they are putting in charging stations, just like so many other places in the world, other than Australia.
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  • Velebit Mountains

    July 29, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    South of Senj are the Velebit Mountains and National Park, reaching the rugged coastline. There are several walking trails through the region. I'm in Croatia to experience Croatia so that's the challenge for today.

    What I wasn't told until we were well on our way was that this is European Brown Bear territory and perhaps also a few wild boars best avoided. Whilst we saw some fresh scratchings in the ground to let us know we were not alone, no animals were harmed in the making of this trip, i.e. if the bears saw us, they kindly let us pass in blissful ignorance.
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  • Zagreb 1

    August 3, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Some of the sights of Zagreb.

    Sometimes, if you have to briefly park illegally for a quick drop off, the middle of the road is actually the best place to stop. The trams definitely go around you if you park ar the kerb.

    I skipped the Muzej Prekinutih Veza and even the chocolates they were selling for fear of becoming their newest exhibit. They also had "bad memory" erasers.

    The red umbrellas at the market have a long history in the region.

    And I'm quite happy with a banana instead of Apple.
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  • Zagreb 2

    August 5, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Some more shots from Zagreb. St Mark's Church and Zagreb Cathedral are quite impressive. Cyclists in Zagreb have extra challenges due to the trams coming up behind them and the kerb-side tram tracks.

    It was Victory Day public holiday in Croatia, I believe in recognition of a key victory in their path to independence after the break up of the former Yugoslavia. We were treated to an unexpected (by us) parade almost to our table, by the Royal Cravats as part of their changing of the guard display held on weekends and public holidays during the summer months.
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  • Time to fly

    August 6, 2019 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Look! Up in the air! Is it a bird, is it a plane? Yes, it's a plane, an A380 but it's not ours. It's Etihad Airways Paris to Dubai, flying over Zagreb. Ours is just a tiny jet way out on the tarmac, we need a bus to get there. At least it's a step up from the propeller plane of our last flight.

    Farewell Zagreb. Next stop Copenhagen.

    After that, we have another short flight powered by propellers (we may all have to pedal to keep it in the air), and when we finally head for home, it's our turn for an A380.
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  • Copenhagen

    August 6, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The first things you notice about Copenhagen-
    There are nicely separated bike lanes on almost all the roads.
    There are cyclists in the bike lanes everywhere.
    There are bikes everywhere.
    Nearly all women, I mean people, are blonde.
    People are taller here.
    It's expensive.

    Of, course, we had to drop by the palace to say gday to Princess Mary but sadly, she wasn't home.
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  • Lunch in Malmo

    August 9, 2019 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It's only a short trip across The Bridge so why not?

    The bridge linking Denmark with Sweden starts as an underwater tunnel so as not to interfere with air traffic at Copenhagen airport next door. It emerges into an island and then goes over the shipping lane before landing in Sweden on the outskirts of Malmo. The top deck is roadway with the railway beneath. The Bridge is a Danish/Swedish crime series you can find on SBS.

    Next to the bridge is a massive wind farm. Perhaps we should be telling them a massive smoke belching coal power station is far more aesthetic.
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  • Anyone for a Hamburger?

    August 10, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Next stop Hamburg.

    Booking the train trip was rather confusing for an amateur due to track construction work so we opted to fly. After a propeller plane across the Alps to Zagreb, a small jet to Hamburg and now another propeller plane to Hamburg, all parking a bus trip away from the terminal building, I am looking forward to getting back to real aeroplanes. Our next plane will be a bit bigger - an A380.

    There are things you must do in Hamburg, including:
    Reeperbahn in St Pauli, famous for its nightclubs where the Beatles played in their formative years, and its other "night" clubs.
    Curried sausages.
    Its biggest tourist attraction- Miniatur Wunderland.

    And things well worth doing, such as:
    Relax a bit watching the boats on Alster Lakes while the live jazz band plays at the cafe.
    See the uglier side of war (it's all ugly, some of it really ugly). Hamburg was almost completely blown off the planet in the last days of WW2.
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  • The real reason for Hamburg

    August 12, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Okay, I confess. The real reason for visiting Hamburg was one of Germany's biggest tourist attractions, Miniatur Wunderland - the world's biggest model railway.

    They have scenes based on locations in Hamburg, other parts of Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Scandinavia, and USA, with Monaco and Provence, France under construction.

    Whilst there are many railway, town and countryside scenes excellently modelled, one of the big highlights is the airport where planes leave their terminal, taxi to the runway and then take off, disappearing into the sky, while other planes descend from the sky, onto the runway and taxi to the terminal.

    They have just announced they are building a bridge across a canal (a real one) to extend Wunderland to another old warehouse across the canal. There, they will be doing scenes of South America.
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  • Hamburg 3

    August 13, 2019 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    As well as the Beatles trail, model trains and planes and sausages, Hamburg has some other strange food, some buildings that survived the WW2 blitz and some restored.

    It also has good bike paths for getting around town on 2 wheels and plenty of people doing just that. What I liked best about the bike lanes in Hamburg is there always seems to be one there when you need it - at intersections and other dangerous places. This is the direct opposite to Melbourne where they disappear when you need it most, dumping you into a car lane to fend for yourself when it is most dangerous.Read more

  • Europe by rail

    August 14, 2019 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This is our first, multi-leg rail trip in Europe, quite a logistical challenge for a beginner. 4 legs, three changes. How long do you need for changes? How hard is it to find the right platform? How do I find my carriage? How do I make sense of signs and announcements that are in foreign languages? What if a train is late and we miss the next connection? Arrrrgh!

    Cross your fingers and pray. I have put my faith in my travel God, I mean travel consultant, the man in seat 61 (seat61.com). I have used this site once before, though for simple trips. So far, every thing has fallen into place just as he said it would.

    Just before leaving Croatia, I received an email (because I registered like the man in seat 61 said to) from the German railway, in German of course, saying my journey has been changed. ARRRGH!!!

    Luckily that was sorted out once I reached Hamburg. Apparently there is track maintenance work in the Netherlands so trains can't get through to Amsterdam.

    So now we have 5 legs and 4 train changes.

    First leg, a high speed German ICE train from Hamburg. Finding our carriage was easy, finding our seat was more challenging. It turned out we had a 6-seat compartment to ourselves. How did we score this? Is it really ours? I think we got special privileges booking as seniors, though our compartment filled at the next stop, the only stop before our change point. I had noticed on the train carriage map on the platform (where you find out whereabouts on the platform your carriage will be, just like the man in seat61 said) that our carriage had provisions for people with special requirements. I hadn't expected that included us.

    First stop is Osnabruck, to switch to the slower, IC train from Berlin, on its way to Amersfoort, NL. The change was easily handled in well under the 18 minutes we had. The train arrived a few minutes late and away we went.

    The train stopped for what seemed quite a long while at Bad Bentheim This was the last stop before leaving Germany, into the Netherlands. I figured out when we reached Amersfoort that they had replaced the red German loco with a yellow and blue Dutch one for the Dutch part of the leg.

    Confidence grew after the first successful change, knowing that it would be easier from there on, and indeed it all fell into place nicely.

    We have several more train trips in the month ahead. This first trip was the most complex so the rest should be easy peasy, but I will still cross my fingers and pray and follow directions from seat61.com.
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  • Amsterdam is .....

    August 15, 2019 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Amsterdam is.... well, Amsterdam.

    They have some rather different museums to other cities.
    A cow museum, a torture museum (Zagreb also has one of these), a sex museum, a prostitution museum (sorry, no pictures), an erotic museum (sorry again) and a hash, marijuana and hemp museum. No, we didn't visit any of them.

    There are shops that sell special cakes and have burly bouncers at the door. At the street market and other places, they sell cannabis ice cream, lollipops and jelly beans. I have no idea whatsoever what they do with cannabis condoms.

    The ladies in their undies in the little shop windows are not modelling lingerie.

    Then there's the, umm, toy shops.

    This is Amsterdam.
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  • Amsterdam is also ...

    August 16, 2019 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Amsterdam is also a city of culture and beauty with a mix of modern lifestyle.

    Of all the famous paintings in all the famous museums and galleries to which I've been, which admittedly isn't many, the one painting that has left a permanent impression on me is Rembrandt's Night Watch. Below the statue of Rembrandt pictured here (I hope he's impressed by the arty farty, laid back angle I've used), are statues depicting his Night Watch scene.

    The Netherlands has a lot of bikes, I'm sure more bikes than people, including all the tourists.

    Amsterdam and other parts of the Netherlands have a lot of canals.

    Both the above are aided by Holland not having any hills.

    It's easy to find a good drink in Amsterdam as long as it's not coffee you drink.
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  • Lovely Leiden

    August 17, 2019 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Leiden was a pleasant surprise. A smaller town between Amsterdam and The Hauge, it is very pretty, very Dutch, very old yet very modern.

    Everybody rides bikes everywhere. Whether going to the station, going to the supermarket, going to work, going out for dinner or just going out with friends, you go out on your bike.

    Except for one meal that was a poor choice, our meals here were very good, some of our best so far.

    We even found a hill in Leiden, perhaps the biggest hill in Holland, though it was man-made about 900 years ago, I say about because it took about 100 years to build, and then they built a castle on it.
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  • Notre Dame d'Amiens

    August 19, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Paris is not the only city in France to have a Notre Dame cathedral. I've been told there are over a hundred of them. Whilst it is the most famous of them all, the one in Paris is not the biggest, even before the fire.

    Notre Dame Cathedral in Amiens is big, REALLY BIG, in fact, the biggest in France. It is about twice the size by volume as the one in Paris. It dominates the skyline from way out of town.

    Over summer, there is a light show projected onto the face of the cathedral, firstly an artistic exhibition, then a static display putting colour into each and every feature of the cathedral. It is an awesome display.
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  • World War 1 battlefields.

    August 20, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The battlefields of WW1 got very close to Amiens which was a city Germany wanted to conquer. The newly formed Australian Army was sent to that region, among others a little further along the front, to help defend Amiens.

    Our army in Europe consisted completely of volunteer civilians because our constitution of the time, prepared by our British rulers, forbade our real army from fighting on foreign soil so could not contribute when the mother country called for help from its Empire to fight the Germans.

    Within days of arriving in France midway through 1916, our inexperienced amateur army was thrown into combat by its British commanders, with a poorly planned attack on a very experienced, well prepared German army in the battle of Fromelles. This was my grandfather's initiation to combat, receiving a serious shell wound to the scalp the first day. That's about as close as you can get to having your service record stamped wounded in action instead of killed in action.

    Whilst gaining some ground that first day, one of the worst days in Australian army history, the next day they were quickly pushed back to where they started, making the brief attack a costly failure.

    In any case, the Germans were already planning to retreat their forces to the "impenetrable" Hindenburg Line.

    In 1918, after a change in power in Moscow, Germany was able to move troops from the Eastern front to the Western front for a new advance into France. The turning point came when Australian commander Lieutenant General John Monash devised an attack strategy to conquer Hamel in 90 minutes. Despite a set back of 20 minutes due to barbed wire not being properly destroyed by artillery, the objective was completed in 93 minutes, with minimal casualties and far more prisoners taken. This strategy became the model for 20th century warfare.

    John Monash was an engineer prior to the war with one of his projects being the construction of Melbourne's Outer Circle railway, better known to many of us by its current use as the Anniversary Trail from Fairfield to Oakleigh.

    After the war, he was given the task to build the Electricity Commission of Victoria, later renamed to the State Electricity Commission of Victoria.

    I worked for the SECV for 15 years from the late 70s, mostly in their head office called Monash House. I had no appreciation whatsoever of John Monash. It is only in the last couple of years that I have learned of his achievements for Australia, Victoria and Melbourne. I now consider him to be the most underrated person in Australian history.
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  • There is more Amiens than a Cathedral

    August 22, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Whilst it has a very big impact on the city, there is more to Amiens than the cathedral. The impact of the ever threatening WW1 battlefields on its doorstep is not forgotten, but life goes on.

    This is France so it obviously Amiens has many wonderful bread and pastries outlets. Some were getting used to my pitiful attempts to speak French. The conversations quickly deteriorate when they reply in French.

    In this fairly flat region, the River Somme meanders along. Much of this would have once been swamp land but has been drained by a network of small canals. There are les hortillonnages d'Amiens - the floating gardens of Amiens. The once swampy land has been converted to market gardens and flower gardens separated by a web of canals.

    A little further downstream there is residential and business area striped with canals to help the river through.
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  • Albert - a must-visit town.

    August 22, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Pronounced more like Albere rather than Uncle Albert, the brochure at the tourist information office claimed this to be a must visit town. I can only assume that the only tourists they where expecting were from nearby farms.

    We opted for a short day trip for our final day in Amiens. I have learned that you don't have to have a good reason to go to somewhere when travelling, just go there and enjoy the adventure. We chose Albert, a short train ride from Amiens. There weren't a lot of trains, the options for our return trip were 2pm or 4pm.

    The gardens were interesting with its streams and waterfalls interspersed with chook pens, geese and pigs. We found a lovely patisserie with superb eclairs.

    Of course they have their own Notre Dame- Basilique Notre-Dame de Brebières. This makes a great photo stop, party due to the Aussie flag flying at the attached War Museum but mostly because there wasn't much else to take pictures of.

    We were and truly all done in time for the 2pm train back to Amiens.
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