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South America ’23
  • Jamie Nicholson
  • Alex van de Velde
  • Jamie Nicholson
  • Alex van de Velde

South America ’23

Join us on an epic Sth American adventure! From tango nights in Buenos Aires to samba vibes in Rio, we'll desert-hop in Atacama, get high (altitude-wise) in La Paz, salsa through Colombia, and wrap up with sun-kissed LA. Ready for a wild ride? 🌎🌞🌵 Read more
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  • South America ’23
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    Salt and Dakar Rally

    September 19, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    This area was very proud to have hosted the Dakar Rally, I think it was only for a single year 2016. Ironically the reason it came here was also the reason it stopped coming here. Salt. The salt flats made a great surface to drive along, the problem was salt is also very corrosive and a large number of the cars broke down. Making it uneconomical to continue.

    What is left is a shrine to the rally. There is a disused hotel, but it's mainly disused because they couldn't work out what to do with shower and waste.

    Nearby is the Colchani statues, made of salt blocks and then carved into different shapes. Alex and I had a bit of fun climbing these and getting photos as you can see.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Trains and Transformers

    September 19, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Lying in a cemetary in the side of the town is a bunch of disused trains from about a century ago. A comedy of failures led to these trains now sitting here abandoned to the elements in some post apocalyptic scene.

    Nearby, and seemingly unrelated, is an art installation someone has done it off scrap metal. Personally I think he has done a bang up job on the likeness.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    La Paz, Bolivia

    September 20, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Here the planes don't need to descend when landing. They just fly and then put their landing gear down and you're in El Alto. The city that, on a map, appears to be the same place as La Paz, but they are two seperate cities and also separated by 1000m of elevation.

    So how else do we get down there.. Cable Car. Any oxygen left in our breath was taken away when the car is flung of the edge of the cliff.

    This city is madness, in all aspects. The height, the location, the size, the driving, the houses. Just everything is chaos and madness. Alex ofcourse loves it.

    Houses and buildings in various states of completion, due to tax loop hole, cover the valley and all the way up the sides of the mountains as far as the eye can see.

    After the cable car ride we went to a place called Moon Valley. Not necessarily because it looks like the moon, but because Neil Armstrong visited here when he was coming to play some golf and said it looks a bit like the moon. The strange shapes and formation of the rocks is definitely interesting though.

    Next we went up to a lookout over the city called Mirador Killi Killi which just showed off how vast this city is. Reminder that there is another city literally above us at the same time.

    Last part was the Plaza Murillo which had the Government Palace with their guards out the front and the Legislative Plaza that has a clock that goes in the opposite direction. Apparently because we're in the southern hemisphere the clocks should go in reverse. That sounds like something someone from the northern hemisphere would come up with.

    In the Plaza there was a surprise romantic display that started with some loud fire crackers shooting into the air. A guy dancing and holding a bunch of flowers kneels down and gives it to another guy. But then in a surprise twist, the guy being performed to kisses the girl that was recording the whole thing. Then some more for crackers were set off before the police came over to shut it down.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Witches' Market

    September 20, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Googling La Paz in Bolivia the top results will be altitude and witches' market. This happens to be a block away from our hotel.

    This place has stores that sells powders, oils, candles, trinkets and ingredients for absolutely any ailments or fortune you want to have come to you. The dead llama fetuses are interesting because they represent the full circle of life birth and death in one. I'm told these are natural deaths of still bornes.

    Alex made us get our fortune told. The Cholita used Coca leafs to tell us our future. Using only our name, where we are from she flipped some of the leafs over, had a bit of a mantra, and dropped some water or oil over it. Now Alex and I did this for a bit of fun, because we know fortunes are rubbish. But what she told us was way way too accurate that Alex and I looked at each other and said WTF to each other afterwards.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Alto-loop, zebras, rainbows and steak

    September 20, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    When you want to explore a city and it has one of the best cable car systems around, then you just have to get on and do a complete circuit right? We thought so, so that's exactly what we did.

    It was a brief walk through the crazy streets towards the nearest cable car station. We even got to see the famous traffic zebras mentioned on Last Week Tonight! We hoped into the cars to do the complete loop of the city .

    What we weren't expecting though was for a sudden storm to come over with strong winds and rain while we were riding it. That site did make it interesting, but it did kind of ruin the spectacular view that the red line was meant to get near sunset. But instead we were rewarded with a massive double rainbow instead.

    We hadn't had a chance to eat anything all day, and by that time we were so hungry that we went somewhere non-Bolivian and had American style steak and ribs.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Copacabana and Lake Titicaca

    September 21, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Today was a full trip out to Copacabana, Lake Titicaca and Sun Island. First destination along the way was Copacabana.

    Now you might be wondering why we are back here, since we already did Rio. Well it's the same name, just different countries. In fact the person who named the famous Copacabana beach in Rio was from this lakeside town here in Bolivia.

    On the long and twisty road out here, the size and prominence of the highest lake in the world is around every corner. Stopping at the viewpoint to overlook the small part of this lake before we get around to the side that goes beyond the horizon.

    Before that though, there is no land access to the peninsula owned by Bolivia. It's cut off by a border with Chile. So to get there all the vehicles go on these rickety wood ferries to go from one side to the other. Cars, buses and trucks included.

    Along the way, the remains of the farming from the pre-Columbian era was everywhere. The terraces for quinoa and wheat carved into the side of every hill, completely terraforming it. Farming that clearly must have been done for hundreds of years to feed an enormous amount of people.

    Arriving at the town we went into the big church in the centre first. An impressive building inside and out.

    We headed through the little markets and stopped for a local interesting drink, Warm and berry like. In addition some Bolivian fried doughnuts to have with it.

    It was a nice pre-lunch, before the main course. Lake Titicaca caught trout. I had read this was a must have before we arrived, and I was not disappointed. Even Alex enjoyed it all.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Isla del Sol

    September 21, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A little boat all to ourselves took us over the waters of Lake Titicaca towards Sun Island. A beautiful day where the sun and sky were the perfect shades of blue.

    Sun Island has significant historical relevance. It is believed to be the birthplace of the Inca Empire. The sun god sending down two of his children to establish the empire. Here on this island the temples and ritual sites show Inca settlement.

    From a modern perspective, if you told me that I was on the Greek islands then I would have believed you. Stunning landscape and a view that just couldn't be described once you were up the hill, which at over 4000 metres wasn't the easiest.

    Welcoming us up the steps was a somewhat garden of Eden. Today happened to be the first day of spring here and the flowers and trees were complimenting that for us.

    At the top was the apparent fountain of youth. Three channels of water representing the three commandments of the Inca. Do not steal, do not lie and do not be lazy. I wouldn't make a good Inca. But we sat and washed our face in the water none the less. If I'm being honest, for the fountain of youth I was expecting something a little grander.

    We walked along the picturesque cobblestone path. No vehicles here, just donkies and alpacas to do the hard work.

    Alex purchased a necklace for himself from one of the Cholitas. An Andian cross made from obsidian. Believed to bring strength and grounding.

    Our last stop was Temple of Pilkokaina. A semi preserved temple from the Tiwunaki and Inca period.

    This was Alex's favourite day on the holiday so far. The beauty of this place was incredible. That mixed with there being almost no other tourist around. It would have been great to explore the rest of the island.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Tiwanaku ruins

    September 22, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Tiwanaku, also known as Tiahuanaco, is the most important pre-Columbian archaeological site in Bolivia and one of the oldest civilizations in the Andes region. It flourished from 1300 BC to 1200 AD and was a significant cultural and religious center for approximately 3,000 years.

    It was another long drive out to the ruins today where we learned about the Tiwanaku civilization. Yesterday when we saw all the farming terraces on the hills, I knew this had to support a large city. And that city was made obvious today.

    In ritual pyramid and two temples served as the three spiritual panes for ceremonies and devotion. Like all ancient sites like this, the sheer impressive effort to construct and design these structures was great to see.

    A lot of restoration work had been done and still in progress as unfortunately a lot of it had been destroyed or stolen for other buildings over the centuries. Following the path of this civilisation over the past days has just been so enlightening to the history of this region.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Failing to sleep

    September 22, 2023 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The altitude was really taking is effect on us, we were tired all the time. Since tonight was a 3am flight and we have a full day of tours tomorrow, we thought that it might be a good idea to try and sleep this afternoon a little.... But that didn't work.

    So instead we went out to find some dinner and saw this funky little place. And when there are Freakshakes on the menu, one must get a Freakshake.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Bogota, Colombia!

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We've arrived. A semi delayed very slow process of getting out of Bolivia last night. But the sun is bright and the air already has more oxygen!

    Didn't need to go far from the airport to get the first taste of Bogota's famous Street Art scene. It's everywhere.

    Here we are, Colombia!    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    El Paraiso neighbourhood

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    "Being poor doesn't mean grey " is one of the first things we learned in the first tour of this holiday back in Buenos Aires. Here in Bogota, that is definitely true. The poorest of districts are alive with colour and music.

    We took the only cable car here in Bogota up there. We walked through the streets and talked about the neighbourhood and how it is structured with local leaders in consolidation with the community for change and improvements.

    We stopped for a small local snack and photos before heading back to the looks distinct of Bogota City.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Botero Museum

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I never claimed that I was a very cultured person, especially when it comes to the world of art. So I apologize for not knowing who Fernando Botero and the importance he has in Colombia. It is an interesting time to discover his art because he only recently passed away. Infact his coffin was still in the Capitol Building for people to pay their respects to.

    This museum he donated to the city when he was content that his collection was complete. Mostly filled with his own collection, he also has a selection of art from Picasso, Monet, and Joan Miró etc.

    Boterismo is the style of art named after him, which is voluptuous or exaggerated proportions on objects, animals or people. A master in his profession, painting and sculptures.

    Our guide was very passionate and knowledgeable in his art and that made it so much more exciting to learn about. He pointed out stories and continual themes through his art that we probably wouldn't have realised in our own.

    A beautiful museum and legacy to have left this city.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    The city of El Dorado gold

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This city's airport is El Dorado Airport. Why? Because it has the legendary story of the golden man. When the Spanish conquistadors explored this region and discovered the ritual where the local tribe would choose a new chief who would cover himself in gold dust and dip into the nearby lake. People would throw good offerings into the lake. When that was discovered the Spanish made the tribe empty the lake by hand to recover the gold that they could to take it back to Spain. What could be recovered is housed in a vault inside the museum of gold.

    We also walked down to the very popular Plaza de Bolivar which is circled around by the cathedral, Capitol building, Congress and Justice building.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Monserrate

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Best viewed from above, but we didn't have that luxury, Monserrate is a religious centre high on the mountains next to Bogota.

    Easily the steepest cable car and funicular that we've taken. The nerves certainly hit with this one considering it was only a month ago that there was a 6.5 magnitude earthquake here.

    A great view over the city, shame there was a little cloud from an earlier rain storm. But you can still see the size of this city which is home to more then 10 million people.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Theatron

    September 23, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Sleep is optional, but going to Latin America's and the world's largest gay-themed clubs was a must. This place was huge, housing 13 distinct rooms of different music and dance styles including a restaurant. Which is where we started.

    Catching up with a local friend here, we were able to get a quick tour of the rooms before they started to fill with people. Before finally sitting down to start the first of many drinks for them night.

    This place isn't just a nightclub, it is a full community. For somewhere that houses 5000 partygoers, it was incredibly efficient. Even in occasion getting bumped while dancing by a cleaner. Bar staff even came to you and asked if you wanted drinks, so no standing in queues.

    The main room, named after the club, we spent the majority of our time getting drunk enough to start dancing. (Two cocktails and half a bottle of vodka if you were curious about what the threshold was.) The music was English and just my taste.

    Then we moved to to the roof top. Closer, more people pushed together and Colombians doing what Colombians do best... Dancing. It was loud, it was hot and most importantly it was fun!    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Bogota Street Art

    September 24, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Street Art is a living and breathing thing in Bogota. It's exceptionally well known graffiti scene. And they have a daily, donations only, tour which we were lucky to be the only ones at. Being taken around by a young passionate guy in the scene he was able to explain to a dummy like me how it works, the process, who was who. All the way from simple tagging, to lettering, to artistic styles, to political statements and movements.

    It is everywhere here, making the streets pop with colour and vibrancy. Each making their mark and telling a story.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Museum of Modern Art of Bogota

    September 24, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Next stop was MAMBO. Which coincidentally was featuring and Australian artist that I didn't realise would be on. I was excited to see the Australian flag so prominent when I entered.

    But that's where my curiosity ended because it became very dark, very morbid like. I didn't take many photos and we left feeling very uneasy. Not what I was expecting at all, and not making me feel like a proud Australian either.Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Fruits and Calle Bonita

    September 24, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Thankfully we were with a local so we got to have some fun of walking into a fruit and vege shop and picking out some fruits that I've never heard about to try. Not needing to leave, we just started cutting in and trying them there with people shopping around us.

    Just around the corner from there was little cute street named Calle Bonita aka in English, Pretty Street. This was very vibrant and colourful.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    National Museum of Colombia

    September 24, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Continuing our exploration through Bogota, we also stopped at the National Museum. A former prison converted into a museum but you can still feel how impressive this prison would have been in its time, it was a literal fort.

    Simon Bolivar must be the most revered man I've ever seen. These northern countries of Latin America have dedicated and idolised him in almost everything. Parks, monuments, plazas, buildings... Everything.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Malaflor Restaurant

    September 24, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Felt like we ate so much today with little snacks and things that we only had a small bite to eat for dinner. Some chicken Yakitori and a nice big salad. The cocktails were a bit explosive, #Colombia.

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    Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá

    September 25, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What I had in my mind when I saw we were going to a salt cathedral is the typical thought of a cathedral in a cave that we've all seen many times. It's really pretty and acoustics in a cave are great.

    But what I didn't expect was this place. It was a spiritual journey through the rise and fall of Jesus, thirteen chapters that were expertly designed and constructed through the use of the mine. No human figures were carved into the 13 chapters, instead the symbol of the cross was used to depict Jesus.

    This is a still active mine, extracting 40 tonnes of salt per day. The sheer scale and impressiveness of this site is impossible to convey in pictures. Not to mention it is 120m underground too.

    Then when you think you've seen everything, the place continues with a more commercial side of it. Cafes and shops built into these huge chasms of where the salt was extracted. And a beauty and massage room that comes highly recommended apparently. Using the fine salt to help soothe and revitalise you in an extremely gorgeous setting. (I should be in their payroll). On its own, the retail side of this place was impressive.

    Salt makes an incredible reflector. There is an area of water that is only 10cm deep but with 80% salt and the reflection of the pool was literally mirror finish.

    We've seen some impressive cathedrals on this trip. But nothing compares to this.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Gran Parrilla Boyacense Restaurant

    September 25, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Our last meal in Bogota was a little bit of theatre at this Parrilla BBQ restaurant. Getting to go inside this giant shopping complex with a whole theme park style to floor, a bit of a reminder of how Myer Brisbane used to be in the old days.

    The salad and thick T bone steak was prepared beside us and the meat finished off quickly on a hot stone. Then the Pavlova style dessert was also hand constructed while we watched.    Read more

  • South America ’23
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    Filandia - Coffee region begins

    September 26, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Starting the day heading into the coffee region after a late flight in. Didn't think we would have a place to stay because the person guarding the locked gates wouldn't let us in because he wasn't told about our reservation. But we got in eventually.

    Filandia is a small town in this region and it started with a trip up to the top of the 360' lookout. Before we headed into the town to have a closer look and walk around at the colourful stores and buildings of this region.    Read more

  • South America ’23

    Tree planting ceremony

    September 26, 2023 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    On our way out, we stopped at a homestead run by a man named Jaime who is passionate about replanting and ensuring the survival of the Quindian wax palm, the national tree of Colombia that can reach a staggering height of 60 metres.

    It was a special ceremony where he welcomed us and asked us to leave a piece of our heart in the planting of the tree. Connecting Australia and Colombia together.

    We were asked to give it a name. We chose the name Juan.    Read more

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