The day of Rain, Wind and Rocks

The forecast was for heavy rain, so we (Karlin, Eric and I) headed out at 6.30 am. I'm kind of grateful it was dark when we left so I couldn't see the darkness of the clouds that lay ahead

The walk out of the city was long as Pamplona seemed to go on forever. It's a big city, and I'll never be a big city kinda girl.

The climb upwards was almost instant on leaving the outskirts, and it felt like it went on for ages up through a field of the wind turbines.

There is something quite special about walking in the dark-it adds another dimension. There is also the bonus of the trick the mind plays- when daylight finally arrived at 8.30 am, the first miles were quickly forgotten

Then the rain began! Almost on cue...Johannes from Belgium had predicted the time down to 5 minutes. He is lovely. A medical student with a gap to fill so decided to travel. A really lovely gentle young man who had been nicknamed 'the weather man'.

The rain was heavy, and the wind fierce. Ponchos (aka as penguin outfit) makes for warm walking indeed. The difficulty is the humidity in the poncho is at times suffocating, none more so than on the uphill climbs

I started the day with the beginning of a head cold. Runny nose and not quite feeling right. Every step was a challenge for the first few hours, and I seriously considered stopping at the 6km mark. Today I was so very grateful for the company that distracted me

There is a saying amongst pilgrims 'the Camino provides' none more true that when we walked into a quiet and small town to find a portocabin toilet just as I think we were all considering the possibilities of finding a shrub. Difficulty would have been the rain and wind.

The rest of the walk was a mix of fierce head winds and driving rain until we reached 'the place where the wind meets the stars' the summit of Alto del Perdon an extremely appropriate name!

Here, I waited where Karlin and Eric scattered a small portion of their children's ashes. A really poignant moment and one that they chose to share with me. I stood well back and watched what no parents should ever have to do.

I have enjoyed the few days with them, and have listened to the horrors they have been through, but also listened to the joy and pride their children bought to them. We have shared so much of our personal stories, and I have come to value their friendship.

From here, the path led downwards..... think steeply downwards, then add to the mix a wet loose red gravel surface, with a strong cross wind and rain. It would have been easy to lose a footing. Over 1km of this.

We reached Urterga, and caught up with some familiar faces- lot of Korean students who we've met along the way. Koreans now make up the 9th most represented countries on the Caminos, ahead of amongst other countries, Australia. They are all so well mannered and quiet, and we 'oldies' chuckle that all the girls travel with a hair dryer. We also met up with 2 people cycling the Camino ( a slightly different and specific route for much of it) they were from Canada and had given up on cycling for the day due to the strong winds instead choosing to walk their extremely heavy bikes

The path out of town led up, and then along a narrow path with a sheer drop off the side..... not brilliant with a cross wind.

Today, I can honestly say not only was I aware of every major muscle group in my legs, but at some points, I was aware of every individual muscle fibre. My knee remains slightly swollen, and my feet intact and blisterless. Generally my body is doing well considering these hills are being walked carrying a bag that weighs a little under 9kg (19.5 pound) including food supplies and water.

The final few miles of the journey were through farmland. There were fields hosting remnants of crops of sunflowers now weather dried and dead. Corn fields, tomatoes and red peppers, grapes, apples, and rocky fields where rye had been grown. My guess for the rocky surface to the fields lay with the strength of the cross winds, which would surely make many a top layer of soil vanish.

Puente la Reina was our destination for the day. An extremely pretty little town, especially after the city of Pamplona.

Accomodation is once again a municipal albergue. Clean comfortable if you don't mind dorm living and bunk beds, and for nine euros a night, there's nothing to complain at.

A wander around town. A quick shop for supplies for tomorrow, a visit to the bridge and the church before an alfresco drink as the weather was much improved.

We timed it wrong today as siesta meant that we had to wait until nearly 8pm before we could sit for a meal. It was enjoyable all the same, and we joined by Stafan from Finland, Fiona from Ireland and Angie from Oz.

Another early start tomorrow and a day with a challenging uphill climb or two.

Distance today 21.27miles
steps 43450
Total distance 98.17 miles (158 km)Read more