Rain, rain and more rain...

A 6.30 start was delayed by ten minutes to allow a torrential downfall to pass. With rain forecast all day, many pilgrims decided to stay put for the day, with less than half of us heading onwards. As per the last few days, I headed out with Eric and Karlin.

The beauty of the morning start was not lost on us, nor was the fact that traversing a step hill in the dark took some of the sting out of it.

There was lightening and rain for at least 75 per cent of the walk today, with drizzle for the rest.

The landscape varied from small industrial buildings, rivers, small hill towns, fields of grapevines, olives and farmland. Whatever the scenery, it was very much up one hill and down the next, and then repeat.

I struggle on the uphill not because of the fitness but because of my heart rate. I can't take the prescription beta blockers as it lowers my already low blood pressure, so for me, they will always be tough.

We were joined three hours in by Julie from Colorado, who I walked with several days ago. She will walk all the way to Santiago with her husband meeting her at Sarria to walk the last 106km.

Julie will join us again tomorrow. I'm enjoying that she had joined us as it's allowed me some quiet time while still having the luxury of company while I am full of a head cold.

In the middle of nowhere, we came across a Christmas tree and a table laden with apples, olives, biscuits, water, and toast. It is left daily by someone for pilgrims, asking only for a small donation. Such is the generosity of people.

Tonight we are staying at the parochial donitivo albergue. San Miguel pilgrims hostel. It's a church run albergue, with the purpose of maintaining the old-fashioned hospitality offered to pilgrims through the years.

Well, I will never ever forget this stay. On arrival, cold and wet, the husband and wife volunteers who are running it - Frederico and Julianna greeted us warmly. It is basic, but the hospitality? We had to remove our waterproofs, and they hung them under a sheltered area outside. We came in one at a time and removed our boots, only for Frederico to take them to a sheltered outdoor area and stuff them with newspaper to dry them.
We had proper bed sheets which whey had washed for us. As opposed to the disposable paper ones we usually get. They put on a pot of coffee and fed us with almond cookies.
They prepared a basic, but tasty hot meal of pasta, cold meats, bread and cheese.
Frederico on seeing my knee bandage, went and got a tube of voltarol out and offered it to me.
They speak not a word of English, but Google translate and our limited combined Spanish led to a laughter filled and entertaining time.
Julianna is the sweetest bubbliest woman. The kind you would want a a grandma. She loved teasing Eric as he is 6ft 5 and she is only I think about 5 ft.

They made our stay so so memorable. The price for the experience? A donation! Needless to say it will be a decent one from each of us. Long may they love their volunteering and long may life be good to them. We need more people like them in the world.

Today has been our first cold day and this afternoon and evening were certainly cold
Tomorrow the plan is to push on further than originally planned. Either way one day will be a long one, but this splits the day nicknamed the knee breaker! The forecast is a 10 degree start and sunshine
Distance today 19.29 miles
Steps 39958
Total distance 117.46 milesEn savoir plus