East and South Africa 2019-20

november 2019 - februar 2020
November - December 2019 Les mer

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  • Antelope Park - Day 2

    10. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I slept quite well, but woke up feeling very stiff and sore. The rib that I 'popped' on the truck the previous day was very sore and all my chest muscles hurt from when I used the rope swing into the pool in the Chimanimani mountains two days previously. I also now had a big section of one of my teeth missing. The wear and tear of this trip was taking its toll on my body. I felt for the first time that the discomforts of this trip were outweighing the enjoyments. If someone had offered me an instant teletransportation home, I might well have taken it at that point. I felt a bit like I'd had enough of the rigours of the trip. However, as I wrote this down, park attendants walked four large elephants right by our tents which assuaged these negative feelings a little. I was genuinely concerned about whether I could manage a horse ride in my physical condition.
    As it turned out, the timings were changed and we did what was called an 'Elephant Interaction' which involved us going out in a safari vehicle to meet four large elephants, one male and three females. It was a really special experience to get up close to these huge, gentle giants. I was able to stand with them and hold their tusks and stroke their bristly trunks. You could feel the non-verbal communication using touch and sound with them. I was able to look deep into their pale orange-yellow eyes. We were then able to take food pellets and place them in their trunk which they held out and twisted up to nimbly and sensitively take the pellets from my hands and place them in their mouth. The whole experience was deeply moving to get this close to such large animals. After about 30 minutes we returned to the safari vehicles and back to the campsite.
    I then rested at the campsite and prepared for my first ever horse ride at mid-day. We walked up to the stables and I began to feel a bit nervous about getting on the large horses that were circling in the paddock. I was given a red helmet which made me look like a bit like a polo player according to my fellow travellers, Lauren, Kim and Monica, also doing the horse ride. I was given a placid horse called 'Flame' as it was my first ride on a horse. I was taken over to concrete steps where I was helped onto the horse and given some basic instructions on how to use the reins to direct the horse and how to pull the reins to stop. I was also told how to kick the horses side with my heels to get him to walk forwards. My fellow travellers also got on their horses and we walked out of the stables, following our guide, and out into the park. I really enjoyed the experience of riding my horse and soon settled in to the rhythm of his steps. I could feel the connection with this large animal as I communicated my intentions through the reins and with my hands and voice. It was a simply wonderful experience and I immediately knew I would want to ride horses again in the future. I had that strange feeling that I had ridden horses before in a another life - the same feeling I get when I go on wooden sailing ships - maybe it's an ancestral menory or maybe I have ridden horses in another incarnation? We soon saw a herd of impala who remained quite close to us as they are not as afraid when we are riding another animal. We carried on through the scrubland and saw vultures in a nearby tree. We then came across two giraffes feeding on an acacia tree and again were able to get very close and take photos. We also saw a male and female lion in a nearby enclosure. We rode down the hill where we passed several wildebeest including young infant wildebeest. We saw another large vulture take flight from a tree before coming across several zebra. I slowly became more confident of directing my horse. He often bent down to eat the grass and I kept having to pull his head up with the reins. I really enjoyed this ongoing communication with my horse. We continued on down the hill and, all too soon, we were riding back into the stable. I got off the horse and back onto the step and led the horse to stand nearby. I patted Flame on the neck and thanked him for taking me through the park without incident.
    We returned to the campsite and had some lunch and a drink in the campsite bar and cafe and waited for our third wildlife experience in a day at 4.30pm which was a walk with the elephants we had spent time with in the morning. We took the safari vehicle out into the park to meet the four elephants again. We spent some time reacquainting ourselves with the elephants by standing with them, patting their trunks and taking photos. We then walked alongside them as they walked along in a rough line. I walked near the elephants and they would sometimes acknowledge my by directing their trunk over to my hand. It was a wonderful experience to walk so close to them and pat their sides. I was reminded of my childhood love of the Disney film, The Jungle Book. My favourite song in the film was the march of the elephants, and here I was all these years later, marching with elephants in Africa. We spent an idyllic half an hour walking with these giant, sensitive and intelligent beasts. There was a wonderful moment when two of the elephants walked closely either side of me and I felt the small tail of one of the elephants gently brushing my head. We stopped at a large water trough where the elephants sucked up water with their trunks and poured it into their mouth. We then walked on to some iron railing enclosures where the elephants ate acacia branches waiting for them. We were able to feed some more pellets into their upturned trunks and then it was time to say our goodbyes and return to the campsite.
    It had been a day of special experiences close up with animals and I felt very fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience it. I started the day feeling very low physically with my sore body and broken tooth, and my mood was then transformed in a positive direction by my close connection with wild elephants and horses. Animals really are the best therapy and always will be for me. I wondered whether and how I could spend more time with animals I'm the future. We all retired to the bar for drinks and dinner and reminisced on our special experiences of the day.
    The moths circled the lights in the bar, the crickets chipped loudly, the lights reflected on the river below and the full moon rose high into the starry sky. I climbed into my tent and settled down to sleep with images of elephants pouring through my mind, reliving experiences with them that I would never forget.
    Les mer

  • Antelope Park - Day 3

    11. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    I was able to 'sleep in' until 7am and arose with the gentle patter of light rain on my tent. I had some light breakfast from the truck and heard that wildebeest had been grazing around our tents during the night which explained the chewing sound I'd heard by my tent during the night.
    I had a slight migraine headache and so rested in my tent until the next close animal encounter with lions who have been bred in the park to one day hopefully be released back into the wild. We boarded the safari vehicle again and headed out to the lion's enclosure. We set up our cameras by a wire fence with a large pile of chicken in front of us for the lions to feed on. When we were all prepared three large male lions were released and raced towards us to feed on the pile of chicken. It was a heart stopping moment to have the sense of what it would be like to have three large lions running towards you for the kill. The lions guarded their prize ferociously and ticked into the meat lustily. It was a great privilege to see such a scene so close with only a thin wire fence between us. The lions looked muscular and powerful with large heavy paws and short thick set hind legs. They looked like evolutionary perfection.
    Then we moved over to the next enclosure and repeated the experience with three younger male lions. I took my photos and video and then sat watching them feed for several minutes to try and connect more deeply with the animals.
    I then went back to the first enclosure and sat the the large dominant male lions. They guarded their 'prey' ferociously and suddenly the dominant male lion, Arosha, made a charge for us at the fence and roared loudly. One couldn't help buy jump with fright at thos primal, electric, and sudden motion of thr lion. I remained close to the fence as Arosha prowled and dug into the earth to mark his territory. Arosha then lay down by fence and seemed to become calmer, with one final shocking snarl. I moved closer to the fance as most of my fellow travellers moved away. I instinctively made a deep humming sound which the lion seemed to respond to. Arosha then looked directly into my eyes, and I had one of the deepest moments of connection with another living being that I have ever experienced in my life. My heart seemed to open wide and we looked at each other for a long time. The lion seemed relaxed and at ease in my presence. It was like a dream experience but this was as real as anything could possibly feel. All my fellow travellers had already boarded the safari vehicle and I knew it was time to leave. As I walked away from this magnificent animal, I knew that my life had changed in some fundamental way in that moment of connection with Arosha, but I didn't yet know in what way. I had just seen the eternal fire of creation in that lion's eyes and knew that he and his wild kin must be preserved so that light of creation is never extinguished. I returned to the camp in the vehicle feeling highly emotionally charged and in a sort of wild reverie. When we returned I walked down to the river to write, and try to process what had just happened. I knew deeply that I couldn't be same again after that moment.
    I spent the afternoon resting at the camp, having some lunch and passion fruit juice in the cafe, and observing the wildlife by the river as I walked over a wooden bridge with geckos skitting away in front of me. We had an early dinner cooked by our fellow travellers ahead of our planned night safari with some the the lions lions who are released from their enclosures to learn how to hunt in the park so that they can be released into the wild in the future.
    We boarded our safari vehicle at around 5.30pm and headed out into the park. Unfortunately, the very dark skies ahead looked ominous with lightning flashing in the distance. A rainbow appeared in the grey-brown clouds to our right. The lions were released from their enclosure by the two park rangers who accompanied us and ran up towards the back of our vehicle. They were two adult females with one of them being the better hunter according to our guides. They were lithe, muscled and impressive looking animals. They followed our vehicle for a while, but then struck out ahead to look for prey to hunt. It was lovely to watch them interact with each other and roll around in the brush together.
    Sadly and inevitably, it began to rain and we considered whether to go on which we did. We came across some wildebeest and antelope which the lions attempted to pursue. They also found some rotten meat to scavenge which their powerful immune systems are adapted to withstand. The darkness descended and we followed the lions through the night. Then the rain began to hammer down hard and we all started to get a real soaking in the open topped vehicle. Eventually, and to our disappointment, we had to give up on the night safari and take the lions back to their enclosure. We transferred to a covered vehicle and returned to the campsite, wet, bedraggled and more than a little demoralised. A few of us tried to dry ourselves by the camp fire before returning to our tents for some well needed sleep. The guides for the night safari offered to take us out again in the morning as compensation from our abandoned night safari. I thought it unlikely that I could muster the energy to get early enough to do it.
    Les mer

  • Antelope Park to Bulawayo

    12. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I woke up around 5.30am but didn't feel that I would make it for the early morning safari. I thought I had lost the top to my water bottle on the safari vehicle the night before and decided to go and look for it on the vehicle before it departed on the morning safari. I hadn't showered, had breakfast or packed away my tent and so didn't think I'd have time to go on the safari before our truck departed at 9am. However my fellow traveller, Lauren, encouraged me to get on the safari vehicle and do the safari and worry about packing my things later. This helped me decide to go and I ran back to my tent to quickly get my camera, rucksack and water to do the safari. We then set off with four fellow travellers into the park. This time four lions were released from their enclosure, two young males and two young females. They closely followed the vehicle and it was wonderful to watch them play and interact with each other. They moved around the vehicle and went in front from time to time. At certain points we spotted impala and wildebeest. The lions made some runs to hunt the animals but their inexperience showed as the animals were easily able to keep their distance from the young lions. Although, the guides told us that one of the young females had previously made successful kills. The lions also came across some rotting meat from dead animals and started to eat and gnaw at the bones. Lions are often scavengers and have very powerful immune systems which means they can eat rotten meat without coming to harm. We were blessed to have nearly two hours watching these magnificent young animals lithely pad their way through the scrubland and around our vehicle. It was another wonderful close up animal encounter in this park.
    We didn't get back to the campsite until 8.50am and I was anxious about getting my things packed to leave at 9am, but our tour leader, Jemma, was very understanding and allowed me time to pack, pay my bills, eat some pancake and get on the truck. The driver, Often, also kindly packed away my tent while I payed for my activities in the park.
    We then set off for our next destination in Bulawayo. The journey was fairly quick and uneventful and we arrived at a very nice campsite, Burkes' Paradise Backpackers Hostel and Campsite, with attractive grassy campground by a pool. I felt quite tired but there was no time for rest as we collectively cleaned the contents of our truck and it was my turn to do the cook group with two fellow travellers, Ri and Kim. Despite my initial anxieties that none of us had cooked samosas before,we managed to cook them and the meal went down well with our fellow travellers. We relaxed in the communal room after dinner and were given a debrief of our exciting walk with white rhinos the following day and the overnight train to Victoria Falls thr following evening. The pace of this journey is quite something. Things we did the very same morning, such as the safari with lions, feel like they happened weeks ago.
    I retired to my bed feeling somewhat exhausted from the day's activities and prepared fro another busy day tomorrow. The air was warm and the ubiquitous African crickets were chirping as I endeavoured to find sleep and dreams of lions running through the bush.
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  • Motopo National Park

    13. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I got up for yet another early start at 5.30am. The sky was clear blue and the sun was rising on a pink horizon.We had welcome beans on toast for breakfast and I packed a bag to take on the overnight train later in the day.
    We boarded our covered safari vehicle with our guide, Andy, whi was an interesting character and his daughter, who was very knowledgeable. We headed out through a wealthy residential area towards Motobo National park. Along the way, Andy and his daughter stopped to pick up a beautiful green chameleon which we were able to handle, its sharp tiny claws clasping my hand as I held it up. They also stopped to pick up a small leopard tortoise from the road. They were both very keen to give us lots of information about the local wildlife. We passed through the gates of the park and immediately into the most stunning countryside with spectacular granite outcrops and tree filled scrubland. As we turned every corner we were presented with another incredible view. We turned down a small road looking for wild rhino. Andy stopped a fee times to assess the rhino tracks and was clearly a very skilled tracker. At a certain point we stopped where Andy had previously scouted a wild rhino the previous day. We walked through beautiful scrubland with great views of the surrounding rock outcrops. Along the way Andy and his daughter showed us different aspects of the local nature such as frog spawn in creamy lather that drops the spawn into the water when they're ready to become tadpoles. Andy also showed us where rhinos had wallowed I'm a waterhole the precious day. Andy said that he was determined to find us wild rhino and sure enough after about hour's walking he pulled out his binoculars and spotted four wild rhinos among trees on the distance. He led us in to approach the wild rhino. Within seconds we were within about 20 metres of four wild rhinos, three adults and one infant. We watched them and took photos. They were aware of our presence and one rhino was a bit skittish and came towards us momentarily, but then they seemed to relax in our presence. We were then able to walk around and get even closer to them within about 8 metres. It was almost unbelievable to get this close to such a wild animal. We were even able to have our photos taken with the rhinos behind us. It was such a privilege to spend over half an hour in close proximity to the rhinos. They became so relaxed with our presence that theu even laid down to sleep. All too soon ot was time to leave the wild rhinos and return to the safari vehicle. On the way back the clouds thickened and we all got soaked in a heavy diownpour. Andy ran on ahead to pick up the vehicle and then came and picked us up from the roadside, sheltering under a tree. We continued on through the wondrous scenery to a small covered hexagonal concrete building with a thatched roof for some lunch Andy and his daughter prepared a wonderful and tasty lunch for us which included one of the best bean salads I've ever tasted. Andy talked a lot about his views on the political situation in Zimbabwe and his occasional annoyance at outsiders telling him how he and his colleagues should conserve wildlife in the park. His daughter had previously talked to us at the park gates of the complexities of local people being moved out of the park when it was created, the extreme poverty that drives poaching of rhinos in the park, the huge prices fetched in China and the far east for rhino horm, how the park staff have to tranquilise and cut off the rhinos horns to prevent them from being poached and how there is a 'shoot to kill' policy for anyone caught trying to poach rhino in the park. Andy's views were strident. He clearly heals a passion for and a great knowledge of the wildlife in the park, but also believes that controlled hunting is an important way to make income for conservation which I would disagree with..
    After lunch, we boarded our vehicle again and headed for Nswatugi cave where there are ancient cave paintings made by the San people. We parked and climbed up a trail which took us over a very large granite outcrop and up into a large cleft in the granite Up on the smooth granite walls were dozens of paintings in red ochre of many types of animal and figures in strange poses. A line of figures seemed to be sitting cross legged above what appeared to be an image of a lion that used the natural rock to partially delineate its features. Another group of figures seemed to seated in a circle around an indecipherable central object.. Therr were also several images of abstract dots and ladder shapes. These images are thought to have been created by many generations of nomadic hunters over thousands of years and the whole rock surface was packed with images. Andy informed us that a burial of a woman was found near the apex of the cleft during excavations. This was a very impressive series of cable paintings and apparently there are hundreds of such sites across the park, some of them being harder to reach but even more impressive than the one we saw.
    As we left the cave paintings, Andy suggested that we climb to the top of this great granite outcrop for the views over the surrounding countryside. The 360 degree views were indeed breathtaking and we spent some time at the tio taking photos. We then returned to our vehicle and headed for the Cecil Rhodes memorial which was the next place on our itinerary. We parked up and walked up another beautiful granite outcrop to the high point which had amazing views over the surrounding countryside. At the top there were huge rounded granite boulders naturally arranged in almost a circle. It felt like a special place and according to Andy's daughter was originally called Malindidzimu by the local people which means 'Place of the Kindred Spirits' and this felt like such an ancestral place. Cecil Rhodes' grave was drilled into the rock right in the centre which felt like a colonial arrogance to match that of the man himself. Hundreds of tame rainbow lizards skitted across the sun baked rock surface. Apparently, there were also elephant shrews jumping around which I didn't see. We spent some time surveying the magnificent views when another heavy rain shower drove us back to the vehicle.
    We drove back out through the park stopping for wildlife along the way. We saw small antelope with specialised hooves for climbing in the sheer, rocky terrain of the park. We also saw some delightful small ringed mongoose.
    We returned to our campsite, Burkes' Paradise, and had to get our packed belongings quickly to get back on the vehicle to drive to the train station to catch an overnight train to Victoria Falls. We also ordered pizzas for the train and by the time they arrived we only had 5 minutes to catch the 7.30pm train. We had to chase all the way up one platform and back down another to get on the train. There then ensued long negotiations in the sleeping compartments we had booked with local people who had sat in them. It was stressful situation for our tour leader, Jemma. Eventually, we all had a sleeping space and I could eat some of my pizza for which I had little appetite. The train seemed to be about 60 years old and was absolutely filthy. I tried to settle down to an uncomfortable night sleeping in my clothes with occasional trips to a dirty metal toilet where you could see through the hole to the tracks below. The caeriage door was also flapping dangerously open throughout the night. The stars were out in the night sky as the train slowly passed by the dark silhouettes of the African countryside but the scene brought me little cheer on this occasion.


    Film - The Conservationists Cry
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  • Arrival at Victoria Falls

    14. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    I was already exhausted when I got on the overnight train to Victoria Falls and after getting very little sleep on the train with it bouncing along the tracks, and noisy shouting from people on the many platforms we stopped at, I was in a worse state by the morning. This was an 'authentic' African experience I could definitely have done without. I got up at around 6am, ate some cold pizza from the previous night and drank some of my fast diminishing water. I had been suffering with a headache since the previous night and couldn't wait to get to Victoria Falls but the train was painfully slow and seemed to stop every few minutes. I mused that it would have been far better to have driven in the truck to the falls.
    After a few hours in the very slow train I started to wake up and cheer up. We passed through the Victoria National Park and saw warthogs close by and elephants in the distance before arriving at the station where we walked to our campsite called Victoria Falls Rest Camp. We were pleased to have brunch cooked for us by Often and then had a debrief of the many available activities at Victoria Falls by a lovely local woman called Joy. After this, Joy kindly showed me to a local dentist where I made an appointment to get my broken tooth checked to see if it would last until I returned home to England. I then got my possessions together and walked down to the entrance to Victoria Falls, paid my $30 dollars entry along with my fellow travellers Vincent and Kristin and entered the park. The various views of the falls are numbered and each view became more spectacular as I worked my way along. Enormous quantities of water courses down the river Zambezi and flew off the edge of the falls into a giant dark chasm below. This caused clouds of spray to rise up from the chasm and literally soak us all to the skin. We caught up with more of our fellow travellers, Lauren, Brian and Tigger - we all laughed at how wet we were getting as we worked our way along the falls. The views continued to be awe inspiring all the way along and it was almost incomprehensible how long the falks are and how much water must be continually pouring over them. We saw what they call 'Devil's Piool' on the other side where we would be diving into a pool right on the edge of the falls the following day and peering over the edge. We walked back along the falls by a drier path and saw antelope and a group of warthogs with many young piglets to remind us that we are in a wildlife park. Elephants can also be seen walking down the town's high street to drink in the river.. Walked on over to the other end of the falls where there were more stunning views back up the falls. Here you could get above the river and see it pour over the edge and down into a giant narrow gorge that is over 100 metres deep in places. Lauren and I stayed on to continue looking and taking photos of the falls and were rewarded when the sun came out and we were able to take photos of the rainbow that appeared in the mists of spray created by the falls awesome energy and power. We also walked back down the falls to see again the wonderful views of river tumbling headlong into the giant gorge. We stayed eight up until closing time at 6pm and reluctantly left. On our way out we saw two tame antelope pass close in front of us which was special to see.
    On our way out of the Victoria Falls Lauren spotted a sign for the.Lookout Cafe which had been recommended to us by Joy earlier. We walked about 400 metres down a dirt track and eventually found the cafe/restaurant which was beautifully constructed and designed with high vaulted wooden ceilings and decorative lanterns. We were met by a very friendly waiter who showed us to seats with an astonishing view over the river gorge below the falls. We had cocktails and a wonderful dinner while watching the sun go down in the far distance and swifts circle in the sky overhead. The sky slowly darkened and we could see lightning flashes in the distance as stars began to appear in the sky above us. Great 60s Motown music played on the sound system and the whole scene was pretty idyllic.finishing off another wonderful day in the glories that Africa has to offer. We decided to walk back to our campsite using a phone torch to guide our way back down the dirt path. However, as we left we were stopped by a member of staff whi told us that it was dangerous to walk there at night as animals from the park such as elephants and buffalo could be roaming there. We checked with the reustaurant waiter who confirmed it was dangerous. We felt a lot like naive tourists and gratefully accepted the offered lift back to the campsite in a car.
    We helped each other put our tents up in the dark, and I got a shower and retired to my tent to write and get an early night ahead of a 5am start to visit the 'Devil's Pool' and swim up to the very edge of the mighty Victoria Falls - Lauren and I couldn't decide earlier who was more daunted by the prospect.
    Les mer

  • Victoria Falls Day 2

    15. januar 2020, Zambia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I had another very early start at 5am to get ready for an adrenaline filled morning with a swim to the 'Devil's Pool' which is right on the edge of the Victoria Falls with a 100 metre drop below you. We all congregated at the camp reception for 5.45am and got a taxi to the Zambian border where we walked through the border post and across the Victoria Falls bridge to the Zambian immigration. As we walked it started to rain and we all got a bit of a soaking - the rain continues to follow us everywhere we go. After quite a long walk we got to where a taxi could take us to the starting point for our Devil's Pool experience. We were given a debrief of what we would be doing including saying we would need to be strong swimmers which I am not. We paid and were given life jackets before boarding a small motor launch. We were soon speeding across the river Zambezi and towards a small river island on the edge of the falls called Livingstone Island. We disembarked and were given towels, got changed into our swimwear and put our things in a locked box. A few of our mobile phones were were put in a dry bag to take photos of us all in the pool. We the gave our preferences for the breakfast we would receive after going in the pool.
    All too soon, having passed and read a sign that we accepted the risk of injury or even death, we were walking hand in hand for safety out onto the rocks by the edge of the falls. Immediately I could feel the strong current of the river around my lower legs. We then had to swim out to points in the river crossing the strong current. This was quite frightening as I battled against the current with a poor attempt at front crawl to get to the guide waiting on the other side. There were two ropes across the river before the edge of the falls to save ourselves if we didn't make it over to the guide, but I didn't fancy having to rely on catching a rope to save myself. Our group of myself and fellow travellers Lauren, the two Brians, Tigger and Kim all managed to swim across bit most of us found it pretty challenging. Then we had to swim across the current downstream, another scary experience, where we crawled along.rocks under the water until we could climb out over rocks to where 'Devil's Pool' was right on the edge of falls where the water poured over into the abyss. Some of our fellow travellers, Ian, Vincent, Kristin and Ri, had gone in the boat ahead of us and were already in the pool where they, one by one, went to the edge, had photos taken, formed a group on one of the ledges and then climbed out. Watching the others increased our own trepidation especially as they were being gently bitten by large fish while they were in the water. It was then our turn. One by one we climbed down into the pool and held onto rocks. Then one by one we swam out to the two guides on the edge of the falls. We all lined up on the ledge for a group photo on the edge of the falls. Then one by one we crossed the current to be dangled over the edge of the falls. When it was my turn, I pushed off the rock into the fast flowing current and was caught by the guides who then took my ankles as I laid out on a rock ledge right on the edge of the falls. My life was temporarily in their hands as if they let go I would be swept over the edge by the current to my certain death. I then took up 'superman' poses as if flying off the edge of the falls while one of the guides took photos and videos of my. I couldn't believe it as o watched this guide walk out confidently on the ledge right where the water tumbled down 100 metres as if he was taking a Sumday stroll. I felt quite exhilarated as I dangled on the edge of the falls, but then a little queasy as I looked down over the falls below me. I then had to swim back to my fellow travellers who were clinging to rocks and grasped me. We were all very happy that we'd managed to do 'Devil's Pool' but still had the anxiety of the long swim back through the strong river currents. The anxiety wasn't misplaced . We clambered back over the rocks and waded out into the river over rocks. Then we had to swim against the current to a large rock on the surface with a guide waiting. I was getting tired and am hopeless at the front crawl so only just made it having swallowed a fair amount of river water. Then we had to swim downstream across a strong current to the guide. Everyone struggled as soon as they his the strong current and I was no exception. I got swept downstream by the current and only just managed to swim back up to the guide. Then we had to swim further across the current. I had to rely on the rope to save me from being swept further downstream and I hauled myself along the rope to the guide. We then reached the edge of Livingstone island and held hands again as we clambered over the rocks and water. It was a big relief to get to the other side. We then walked across the island and took some photos of the view across the Zambia side of the falls. It felt cold outside the relatively warm river water. We then were treated to a nice breakfast of croissants, salad and very welcome warm, sugary tea. We got changed back into our clothes, retrieved our things and returned to the boat for the ride back to our starting point. This bog adventure had come to a satisfying conclusion
    We were then driven back to the border in a taxi.
    I then visited the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls. With my fellow traveller, Kim, and her mother, Monica, who was waiting for Kim at the falls. We paid our $20 entry fee and walked to the falls. Monica had organised for a guide to show us the falls. The guide was very informative and showed us the East side of the falls where we were above the river Zambezi and could see it flowing down to the edge of the falls. As we walked along the viewing points of the Eastern falls, I was immediately impressed by how much water was now coming over the previously reported dry falls and the incredible long view down this longest side of the falls. The waters thundered down to the bottom of the falls creating a maelstrom of foam and spray as the river continued wildly on its course. As we made our way west across the falls the views became even more spectacular and widescreen. We crossed a high bridge across a gorge and continued on to an immense view looking down through to the Zimbabwe falls and all the way back towards the Eastern falls. Far below the waters raged from both directions and through an immense gorge to continue their way to the sea. The guide informed us that there had been 8 sequential falls previous to the current one which itself was 200 million years old. These giant cleats in the rock had been caused by volcanic action over great epochs of time. I left Kim and the guide at this point to spend time at the falls on my own and really soak up the atmosphere and the river water spray. I found my favourite spot with views back up to the Zimbabwe falls and down to the great gorge and more deeply connected with this great natural wonder of the world that is known by the native peoples as Mosi-oa-Tunya or 'The Smoke That Thunders'.
    After several hours at the falls, I returned to the border with Zimbabwe, passed through immigration and crossed the Victoria Bridge where I viewed the great gorge through which the Zambezi exits having tumbled so far, from the other side. It was a long walk back to the town where I had lunch. On returning to the campsite, I found a warthog happily feeding on his knees near our tents - this truly is a wild place. I then visited the dentist about my broken molar. We agreed that the tooth should last until I returned to England at the end of February as long as I was careful about not biting on anything hard with it. I also learned that it was an old filling that had come off rather than a new break which was good news of sorts. I was grateful to Joy, the organiser of our activities, for taking me to find the dentist and generally looking after me. As I no longer needed further dental treatment, I was able to book onto doing a canoeing trip on the Zambezi the following day which should be rich in wildlife encounters including the possibility of seeing hippos and crocodiles but hopefully.not too close up. I went.for a meal with Lauren where other fellow travellers joined us and then returned to complete writing my travel blog and get an early night ahead of another busy day in Victoria Falls.
    Les mer

  • Victoria Falls Day 3

    16. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We were picked up at the campsite reception at 7.20am by three guides in a safari vehicle with four inflatable canoes for our canoeing trip on the Zambezi river. We drove out into the national park and started with an hour's safari drive near the river where we saw quite a few wild animals including a kudu, impala, zebr and a, bushbuck. We came very close to seeing the elusive leopard that we've been hoping to see for the entire journey. We arrived by a safari vehicle where the driver said they had just seen a leopard by the road. However, it had disappeared and we didn't manage to see it.
    We drove on through the trees and scrubland and eventually turned right into a beautiful area of trees by the river. The guides had prepared a nice breakfast for us and got our canoes ready. The lead guide gave us a debrief about how to stay safe on the river and what to do if we came into contact with hippos or crocodiles. If I didn't know before, I now knew that we would be paddling on a very wild river. We then put on our life-jackets and boarded our boats in pairs. I sat in the back of our canoe with Lauren in the front and it would be my responsibility to steer the boat which I wasn't sure if I was up to. We paddled along by the river bank and it took a while to get going as we got used to paddling together and the wind kept blowing us into the bank. We eventually managed to get paddling in a neat line out into the river. The lead guide was careful to paddle us away from the groups of hippos that we could see out in the river. We also saw a crocodile basking on a river island at the centre of the river and the lead guide regularly slapped the water with his paddle to scare away any crocodiles that might be nearby. We then stopped by a river island and the lead guide advised us how to paddle through an area of rough water with swirling water and where to go to avoid contact with hippos. We set off into the rough water and it was quite a challenge to paddle through as the river currents had become much stronger with the rising waters on the river. The guide was pleased that we all paddled through and we stopped on the river bank to rest and have a drink of water. I got out of the boat and walked up onto the rocky river bank. I looked out across the wide Zambezi river and soaked the evocative atmosphere of this legendary African river.
    We then continued on down the river past more hippos. Our paddling rhythm improved along with my steering and I was able to begin relaxing and enjoy the wonderful views across the river. All too soon we returned to river bank where the safari vehicle was waiting for us at the end of our trip. We saw a small crocodile basking in the sun up close on a river island just before we paddled our canoes into the bank. We disembarked and ate the lunch provided by our guides. I had one more chance to look out across the beautiful river before we got back on the safari vehicle and drove out of the national park and back to our campsite. It had been a wonderful opportunity to spend time on this beautiful river above the great falls famously explored in the late 19th century by Dr. David Livingstone.
    I then rested and prepared for my planned helicopter flight over the Victoria falls. However, the heavens opened about half an hour before the flight. The transport still arrived to take us to the airport for the flight and despite my protestations that it was going to be raining for the flight we were still checked in for the flight at the airport before the flight was inevitably cancelled. It was frustrating to have wasted the time preparing for a flight that I knew wasn't going to happen. I had the opportunity to rebook the flight the following day if the weather was better.
    In the evening I met some of our new travellers who were joining our trip, two young Swiss men, Oscar and Simon, and an older couple from Liverpool, Phil and Bro, who were also 'died in the wool' Liverpool FC fans. As a fellow fan myself we were already on good terms. All the people joining our truck seemed very nice which boded well for a continuing positive group atmosphere for the trip to Cape Town ahead of us.
    We had dinner in the restaurant on the campsite and had some enjoyable banter with our fellow travellers. I said my goodbyes to the young American, Kim, who would be leaving our trip tomorrow.
    I retired bed in the wet and humid night and thought of our planned white water rafting trio the following day with some trepidation.
    Les mer

  • Victoria Falls Day 4

    17. januar 2020, Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The activities at Victoria Falls kept coming thick and fast - I made another early start for my first experience of white water rafting. After a light breakfast, seven of us Oasis Overland travellers (Scott, Lauren, Vincent, Ian, Kristin, Tigger, Brian) boarded a large safari vehicle along with about 12 other tourists and travellers. We drove to the Lookout Cafe where we were given a thorough safety debriefing and signed the usual legal disclaimer forms. We headed out into the national park for several kilometres and parked up at buildings high huge Zambezi river gorge. We were given our helmets, paddles, and life jackets and then had a long, steep and slippery trek all the way down to the bottom of the gorge. The seven of us Oasis Overlanders all boarded the same big white water inflatable raft. We set out onto the water, with incredible views of the tree filled, almost vertical, hundred metre high gorge. We were on a huge bend in the gorge. The guide gave us all some quick tuition paddling the boat, how to hang on to the raft by holding onto the side rope, and what to do of we went for the 'short' swim - one person goes overboard and needs pulling back on - or the long swim - the whole boat goes over and everyone needs to climb back on. I was feeling a mixture of excitement and apprehension as I had never done this before and wasn't sure how difficult it would be to stay on the boat. We then set off down the river gorge with two other boats and several kayaker guides who rode each rapid first and then waited at the end of the rapids to pick up any people who got flipped out of their boat. Our guide explained that we would be shooting rapids numbered 11-24 so we would be shooting 13 rapids - unlucky for some! We hit the first rapid which was a grade 2 rapid (grade 0 = easy - grade 5 = very hard). We rode through the wild water and river waves pushing us up and down and buffeting us from side to side. We kept paddling and made it through with the guide shouting instructions about when to paddle and when to stop paddling. I felt a wonderful exhilaration riding the rapids and feeling the warm river water surging over me. The river gorge sides seemed impossibly high and the view was just astonishing. We then approached a more scary grade 4 rapids. These rapids really tested our metal as we received a strong wave from the side which sent us all sideways and nearly tipped thr boat over. We made it through and the adrenaline fuelled sense of exhilaration was even stronger. The pointed out a small crocodile basking on a rock by the river as we paddled past in calmer waters. We passed a couple more smaller rapids and then approached a grade 5 rapid called the 'Washing Machine'. There was a hole in the waters that we had to avoid to prevent the boat capsiziog. If the guide shouted 'get down's we had to hunker down and hold the. side rope for fear life. Once again our boat was tossed around by the surging and swelling river waves, but we were now paddling better as a team through the rapids and we made it through without too much danger. Next we had two grade 4 rapids in close succession called 'Terminator 1 and 2'. This was the most challenging rapids we experienced. The river waves we faced were enormous. The front of the boat went low down into the water and then smashed up high into the waves. We then got a big impact on the left hand side by a wave which nearly knocked a few people out the boat. The guide kept turning the boat around during the rapids to get us to wave to another guide on the bank who was taking a video of all of us rafting. We next approached grade 2 rapid. The first boat through managed to capsize and all the occupants were tossed out and had to pull themselves back into the boat after it had been righted. We had long stretches of calm water where we could paddle gently and admire the spectacular gorge scenery. We passed some lovely yellow sand river beaches where you could camp on a 5 day trip down the Zambezi gorges. Some people voluntarily jumped into the river for a swim at the calmer points on the river. We continued to ride the rapids all the way to rapid number 24. I absolutely loved my first experience of white water rafting and being in such an ancient and awe inspiring place as the Zambezi river gorges leading away from the falls. We saw another larger crocodile basking with its jaws open on a rock just before we paddled our boats into the river bank for the long, steep, rocky and exhausting climb back up to the the top of the river gorge. We were served lunch and drinks at the top, before reboarding our safari vehicle and returning through the national park and back to our campsite.
    It was time for the next stage of my last adventurous day at Victoria Falls. I walked up to see Joy at the Backpackers who organised all our activities for Victoria Falls to see if it would be possible to re-book my helicopter flight that got cancelled the previous day. Joy said that there had been no flights earlier that day due to the bad weather but that they had just re-started flights and managed to book me on the next flight. I was picked up at the campsite reception and driven to the airport for the flight. We picked up two Dutch men along the way who I would be sharing the flight with. However, the storm clouds were gathering again and it looked like it would inevitably rain again soon. We arrived at the airport and went through the checking in procedures and safety briefing. It was going to be touch and go as to whether the flight would go ahead. The helicopter landed and, to my relief, we were ushered out to the helicopter. My light weight was to my advantage compared to the large Dutch men as I was invited to sit in the front seat for better weight distribution. I therefore had an all around view for the flight and could even see through a window on the floor of the helicopter. We put on our flight helmets and seat belts and the pilot gently manoeuvred the helicopter into the air. I had never been in a helicopter before and it was a majestic feeling to rise up into the air and head towards the Victoria Falls. I could the great Zambezi river gorge stretching out across the national park which was filled with trees as far as the eye could see. We approached the falls which was shining with the white water coming over the falls even though rain was approaching. The falls seemed impossibly long and the gorge strangely narrow following a great cleft in the bedrock was created by volcanic activity over 200 million years ago. The helicopter made several passes over the falls so that I could see them from every angle. I could see the water coming over the edge of the falls right along their length and see the great swirls of mist rising above the great gorge. I could look down on Livingstone island and see the Devil's Pool that we swam out to - it looked even more of a terrifying drop from above. It was a truly mesmerising sight and a wonderful way to take in the sheer magnitude of this wonder of nature. After what seemed like a lot longer than the actual 15 minute flight we returned over the national park and back to the airport. The pilot pointed out elephants wandering and giraffe feeding on trees as we flew back and it was amazing to see these animals from the air. The pilot slowly landed the helicopter and I ducked under the rotating blades and returned to the airport buildings exhilarated by what I'd seen during the flight. We were driven back to our campsites and I took in the experiences of the day.
    I then showered and rested before going our for a group meal with my fellow travellers where I indulged in some celebratory cocktails (strawberry mojitos).. We then moved on to a late bar at a backpackers hostel where, after dancing a bit to the music, I finally ran out of all energy and returned to the campsite to get some well needed sleep before another busy day travelling to Chobe Wildife park in Botswana.
    Les mer

  • Chobe National Park, Botswana

    18. januar 2020, Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    I got up for last time in Victoria Falls, packed up my very wet, muddy, insect infested tent, had a light breakfast and boarded the truck to head for Botswana. It had been nice to be in one place for a few days but I was happy to be 'on the road again', as the famous song goes. It did not take long before we were at the Botswana border. We had an easy and efficient passage through immigration, but had to disinfect all our shoes on a dirty mat in a tray that seemed to leave the shoes dirtier than when we started.
    We stopped in a shopping centre where I bought a new t-shirt in a clothes shop. While I was waiting a long time for the credit card machine to make a connection to process my card transaction (a common problem in East Africa), the woman serving me complained about how the town has a problem with elephants, lions and other wild animals coming into the town. Running away from lions in the high street is a very different kind of issue to deal than we have to deal with in Europe. I had a baked potato with curried vegetables for lunch and boarded the truck. Again, it was a short journey to our next campsite, Chobe Safari Lodge, which, like the previous town is ensconced in the Chobe wildlife park right on the banks of the Chobe river that flows into the great Zambezi river. We had a wonderful, sandy spot to camp on and I pitched my tent overlooking the river, a little way from sign saying 'Beware of the Crocodiles'. I got out my binoculars and could already see buffalo and antelope feeding in the long grass on a large river island in the distance. Then I focussed on a large male hippo surfacing in the river. A short walk up to the nearby bar offered superb views of the river through reeds. The camp we were in was literally teeming with wildlife. As I walked up to a very plush bar, restaurant and pool at the top end of the campsite, I passed a family of wild warthogs very close by. The camp was also filled with tame birds of various bright colours. Insects and beetles also abounded. There was one enormous flying black beetle the size of a bat - it looked like it would be too big and heavy to possibly fly. On the way back to my tent I saw banded mongoose nearby.
    We met at the campsite reception at 3.15pm for our planned wildlife boat cruise on the Chobe river. After a short bus ride we boarded the double decked boat and most of us went up to the upper deck. The boat backed out of the docking point and started to slowly make it's way down the river. The scene was beautiful looking out over the wide river and the sun soaked grasslands of the park bordered by tree lined forest. We soon began to see groups of hippos in the water, with some occasionally making impossibly large yawns with their huge toothed jaws. We saw crocodiles lazily basking in the sun on the river bank with their mouths open to try and cool themselves. We then saw many hippos out on the land feeding on the lush green grasses. We were passing a huge river island favoured by the animals because lions and other cats can't swim out to it so they are safe. We saw buffalo and antelope grazing on the island. We rounded a wide bend in the river and saw dozens of hippos, some with very young infants. We were able to sail up very close to some of them and watch them munching through the grasses with their huge jaws and lower teeth. There were also many egret, herons, storks and other species of birds in the grasses. We were surrounded by animals in this lush, wet garden of Eden. As we continued on we could see large numbers of elephants in what appeared to be a large water hole near the river. As we got closer, we could see dozens more elephant families with very small baby elephants running excitedly down to the water hole and drinking lustily from the waters. It was wonderful to watch the youngsters rolling and playing in the mud around the water hole. All in all we counted over 60 elephants in this huge evening congregation. It was such a privilege to witness this timeless scene. We began to return down the river and continued to see groups of hippos on land and in the water, crocodiles, buffalo, and a large, skittish herd of impala. The sun began to reach down towards the horizon and the light began to go golden. We sat relaxing on the upper deck, drinking our drinks and drinking in the wonderful vistas all around us. I reflected that I had now done every kind of safari - walking, vehicle, horse and boat safari. This safari had been a really special one - I never expected to see such a carnival of life all around us - the density of life in the Chobe park was astonishing.
    We eventually returned to the dock seeing more hippos in the water along the way. We disembarked and rushed down to the campsite bar to witness an amazing sunset which turned from bright oranges to the deepest reds and auburns. This was the classic African sunset I had been hoping and waiting to see and was a perfect end to a remarkable day. We had our camp meal as the sky darkened into a galaxy of bright stars. I spent some time in the bar/restaurant area of the campsite before retiring to my tent to sleep. There was a loud symphony of animals and insect calls all around. I could here the snorts and rumbles of hippo groups very nearby. I eventually put in my ear plugs and went to sleep. almost reluctant to leave the festival of life calling all around me.
    Les mer

  • Journey to Elephant Sands

    19. januar 2020, Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I woke up to a chorus of bird song and hippos calling out on the nearby river. A myriad of animals, insects and birds were stirring with the imminent sunrise. I got up in the twilight and got a shower in a black beetle filled shower. As I left the shower I was faced with a large troop of baboons with a big, intimidating male in front of me. Fortunately, he moved aside as I walked forward to my tent. We had a light breakfast as another family of warthogs skirted us waiting to eat any scraps we left behind. It was time to leave this magical realm of life and head out onto the road for our next destination. We travelled through a huge wildlife park filled with low trees and grasses for as far as the eye could see. We passed dozens of elephants, some very large males with long white tusks, near the road and sometimes stopped the truck to view them more closely. It was special to see them feeding in the grasses by the trees. We stopped to watch a group of four large giraffe lolloping over to trees with their graceful gait and stretch up their long necks to feed on the high leaves. We also passed a group of five large Ostrich as well as occasional antelope. I reflected that I would never tire of seeing these animals in the wild and would always feel the same thrill of anticipation and discovery when in wild Africa.
    We travelled on and at a certain point the countryside changed dramatically to tree-less grasslands which a fellow traveller informed me was the edge of the Kalahari desert. We eventually turned off the road onto the aptly named 'Elephant Sands' which was a campsite situated in sandy scrubland with a water hole, often visited by elephants and other animals, at its centre. After pitching my tent on the sand I watched the busy bird life with two horn bills jumping up and down to a cleft in a tree where you could hear the chicks calling for more food. The designated cook group made us a tasty lunch of tuna, apple, walnut and raisin salad. We then rested in the shade of the bar out of the blazing hot sunshine and talked of politics and other various topics before eating a dinner of curry and rice facing a beautiful reddening sunset on the horizon. Sadly, the hoped for elephants never arrived at the watering hole, but we considered that we had already been very fortunate with our animal sightings on our journey and could therefore tolerate this minor disappointment. The red dusk settled into darkness and the sky filled with southern hemisphere stars as I slowly fell to sleep.
    Les mer