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Marrakech to Agadir by bike Read more
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  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour

    2 days to go!!

    October 21, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    It’s getting exciting! Only 2 days until our latest cycle tour. Andrew Holmes and myself are following up on our epic trip across Iceland in 2016 by cycling from Marrakech to Agadir on the coast of Morocco using the route shown. Our first leg will be a 45 mile , 3000 ft climb to Imlil in the Atlas Mountains on Thursday.

    Tonight was spent packing my trusty Giant Roam hardtail cross bike into its travel bag (shown). This is equipped with the latest design of rear cartridge designed and patented by Steve Elkin of King of the mountain bikes (http://k-o-m.co.uk/) ; thanks Steve! We’re testing a new ratchet system equipped with Al pawls coated with Adm tm diamond coating technology from Diamond Hard Surfaces designed time extend the life of wear components!.    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 1

    Almost packed

    October 22, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Almost packed! Seem to have too little compared to Iceland but not wild camping this time so no need for a sleeping bag, bivvy bag etc. Leaving in the morning to Manchester Airport picking up Andrew on the way!Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 2

    Locked and loaded - Ready to Fly

    October 23, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Good drive up to Andrews, loaded the car and headed off to the Airport. Bikes all checked in painlessly despite being 29kg but then you do pay a premium for large luggage.; 95 GBP return for a bike. “Could have had its own seat!” Andrew remarked!Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 3

    Marrakech to Imlil Cycling day 1

    October 24, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Arrived safely in Marrakech which was warm and dry. Got through the airport with no dramas. The city is like another world! The Riad (Riad Romance in the Médina) was like an oasis of tranquility in a world of chaos! Had a good sleep and woke up early to have breakfast with friends Ali and Sally who were on their last day headed to the airport.

    We assembled our bikes and did cursory checks. Fortunately no damage.On the advice of the resident Germans (Austrians as it turns out) decided to get a lift to the outskirts of the city which turned out to be a good decision as there was still chaos the next morning!

    After some minor bike adjustments we got on the road and headed towards the Atlas Mountains in the far distance.

    Eventually we arrived @Asni and decided to stop for lunch. Tagine .... which Andrew successfully negotiated an interesting deal , however the boss sent in his mates to plague us with offers of buying hand made burbor art, ending with pleading to to put money on the table for starving kids! We left after a tasty meal and turned left out of Asni towards Imlil. The road drew us in with continuous slight incline and even some slight downhill sections as it followed the course of the river, killing us off with a steep ascent of of a few km at the end! We gratefully arrived at the Riad around 5.00 pm. Lovely room and hot water for a shower for 25 Euros between us.

    After an exploratory visit of a dry river bed seeking the famous Imlil waterfall we had tasty meal in the dining room with panel wall and ceilings; are they real we asked ourselves? Followed by a brief Brexit debate with a Danish family!! Sleep well tonite , tomorrow it’s back down the hill towards Agadir for the next stage!    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 4

    Imlil to Ouirgane via the waterfall !!

    October 25, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Got up had an excellent breakfast in the Riad (Atlas toubal - recommended !) leisurely day as we only had 30k to ride to the next stop. Not ideal as tomorrow will be 114k but closest we could do with the accommodation!. And a nice easy day for Andrew’s birthday!

    First though using local knowledge from the Riad we went off in search of the illusive Imlil waterfall which was in the opposite direction to the google maps version! One wonders whether the locals haven’t deliberately marked it in the wrong place so you need to pay a guide!! Not signposted at all either!

    Anyway we found it passing about 20 shops on the way in the forest and steep climb up. “We’ll sell you something on the way down” came the cry.

    We covered the 30k in about an hour losing all the height we had gained but great fun even racing some locals at one point! Arrived at the Gite du lac in Ouirgane around 12.00. Very welcoming and a lovely Gite cool inside partially because it’s totally tiled!

    Looking forward to a cool bathing experience we headed to the “lake” but we’re dismayed by the “natation interdite” signs. When we go to the hydroelectric dam we could see why! Ate our lunch by the “whatever” anyway in the shade of a tree. After many mint teas (this place is great for “stoptober”!!) we set off into the village for an explore.

    In the centre of the village we “bumped” into a very friendly guy who had stalked us from the Gite. Practicing (NOT) what he preached the day before we went on a unofficial tour (and undeclared/ required ) of the surrounding countryside with Mohammed and Andrew chatting away. I followed not to close behind trying not to get drawn in, but after about 20 mins it’s was obvious we were being guided and Mohammed wasn’t going anywhere without us! Andrew said we’d gone far enough, shook hands , I say “shook” but it was more karate chop on his behalf. He declared that he wasn’t going anywhere except guiding and and walked back in virtual silence. I felt sorry for him so engaged him in a bit of chit chat! Turns out he knew exactly where our Gite was and sat down outside the cafe whilst I retired to our room leaving Andrew to to give him the bad news!

    Eventually I got an all clear text and ventured out to find my tea being drunk by Andrews latest adopted 3 year old grandson!

    Finished the Day with a tasty Moroccan couscous followed by birthday cake for Andrew!    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 5

    Over the top! Ouirgane to Ouled Berhil

    October 26, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Getting an early start with a simple breakfast, not the best we’ve had in Morocco we managed to hit the road by 8.30.

    The climbing started straight away as we followed the lake and then the river that feeds it up and up and up. The road was fortunately on the East face of the valley which meant that most of the morning fortunately was spent in the shade. After about 45k (24 miles) we came to the oldest mosque in Morocco about half a mile from the road. It’s called the Mosque de Tinmel and has some very nice features inside. Not that I saw them as I stayed outside whilst Andrew went around, at first to guard the bikes which apparently wasn’t necessary according to the doorman (once a donation to the church was made!).

    We carried on climbing however sometimes we climb high up above the river and the drop down closer to it usually where there was a settlement. People are very friendly I couldn’t estimate how many times we said / replied to a”bonjour ca va” from people on the side of the road or even most motor cyclists.

    We reached “the top” according to Andrew by about 15.00 but then after dropping down a bit realised we still had a short climb to do. By this time we had both run out of the 3/4 litres of water we had each so we stopped at a cafe. The very friendly mustapha was keen to sell us .... well anything he could really, omelettes, accommodation etc . We settled for an orange juice and 2 bottles of water and set off on the descent; all 33 miles of it! Spectacular views of the road below. We finally arrived around 17.00 after 7.5 hours of more or less no stop cycling and having covered 117km.

    The hotel in Ouled Berhil was ok but nothing special; we got the roof top room with reverberations of angle grinder.

    We decided to venture out in search of a good place to eat only to be recommended the place we were staying in. We went back and had a tasty chicken tagine and tomato salad washed down with a reasonable sparkling apple juice with NO alchohol!

    Tomorrow the final push to Agadir a flattish 69 miles ( 110km).    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 6

    Atlas Mtns day 4 Ouled Berhil to Agadir

    October 27, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The day started with a hearty breakfast which wasn’t quite ready at 0800 when requested but was probably the best of the trip so far!

    We set off at 9.30 and were soon caught by 2 local cyclists whom we drafted for several miles before thanking them and dropping off. This helped us cover the first 32k (20 miles) in an hour. Not bad for gravel/ cross bikes with paniers.

    The National route was very straight , slightly downhill and smoothly metalled. Traffic was not too bad and a real mixture of motor scooters, trucks, vans with sheep, cows or chickens on the roof etc.

    We thought were making good time to cover th calculated 110k (68 miles) to Agadir. Nothing really to stop and see until we got to Tarandount , where we ended up going through the centre of the walled city on market day which at first was slightly intimidating and then fascinating.

    We ploughed on stopping for an egg sandwich ( from breakfast) , freshly pressed orange and apple juice when the sun started to blaze. As we sat eating a mini whirlwind moved through the forecourt!.

    Lots of police checks on the roads , basically at the entrance to each major town or village; not interested in bikes, but friendly enough.

    At the 68 mile mark we had only just reached the very outskirts of Agadir and our off line local directions said another 10 miles!! It went on and on and when we’re close to our destination the aptly named Hotel Atlantic View we got lost and Andrew got disoriented and drove into a sharp pointy bush gashing himself; nothing too serious although the Hotel treated it seriously enough when we eventually arrived. The appartment hotel wasn’t too keen to have our bikes in the foyer but as it turns out there would have been ample room in the room! We dumped or stuff and headed for a swim in the see 128k completed (89 miles!).

    Later we headed out for dinner, but Agadir is a resort based location so not many restaurants to choose from. We did find one though with beer on the menu outside and on the menu; happy days except that the waiter informed us they didn’t serve alcohol! Quite a surprise therefore when they produced a bottle of red when he pleaded “I really need a little glass of rouge with my tagine” in French obs! He had to keep it under the table though! And our waiter did pour the water like it was wine though and we were quite enjoying our Orange juices by then.!!

    Our goal was to cycle from Marrakech to Agadir via the highest road points in the Atlas Mountains in 4 days..... and we did it! Bus back to Marrakech tomorrow; time flies!    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 7

    Bus Ride back to Marrakech

    October 28, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Leisurely day today, the only stress being that of catching the 11.30 bus back via National coach company CTM at the bus station. We got a good breakfast in the Hotel restaurant , mounted our bikes and set off via the promenade to the bus station. We soon realised that the El Toro restaurant we had been recommended the night before but not found was a considerable distance; good job we stopped at a place that sold beer........ wait mmm?

    Upon arrival at the bus station we were greeted by the ubiquitous local eager to sell us a ticket. ( oh no you say!) yes we were directed around the back away from the entrance directly to the buses and offered a bus ticket to Marrakech for 100 duram (£10 ) including bikes each for the 3 hour “non stop journey”. CTM was 115 plus bikes so we figured it was a saving!

    It was a saving ......... in comfort, air conditioning ,choice of seats and just about everything else but hey ho do as the locals! Andrew’s “choice” of seat was in a window on the sunny side and looked like he would explode when someone tried turning the air conditioning off ... sorry I meant close the skylight! He tried the proper air vent but it was blocked with a paper bag. Fortunately another passenger saw sense and it was opened again!

    After numerous stops during one of which I was offered a bag of nuts for 5 duram and ended up buying it for 10! ( I offered the kid 2 to go away but he refused! :-) we finally arrived at our destination Riad Romance who had stored our bike shipping kit for us. Not however before a double puncture incurred traversing a kerb which was being repaired!

    We were recommended the excellent Le Founduk , French style restaurant who actually sold beer and very good food.

    Bikes packed tomorrow it’s an explore of Marrakech before flying back.    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 8

    Last day Morocco - Exploring Marracech

    October 29, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Rising at a good time we sampled the excellent breakfast at the Riad Romance, consisting of Moroccan omelette , bread , coffee, tea, orange juice and pancakes. There was (another) picture of Andrew eating his but it became distorted when he moved during the panorama!

    We headed out to explore some of the sights. Moving south we went through the Souk taking in the sights and sounds and colours. I tried unsuccessfully to barter for some leather Phillipe Philops (French inventor of the open toed sandal)!

    There were some nice examples but at 450 duram (£45) the asking price was way off my expectation which had been set by the craftsman in a shop I saw the night before at around 90 Duram.

    So we headed for the saidiem tombs vis the main square where the snake charmers and colourful horse drawn carriages were quite a spectacle!

    In the end we decided not to go in the tombs which, priced at 70 duram are not expensive but we were uncertain of what we might see so headed to El Badii Palace which when constructed in the 12th century was believed to be one of the finest in Africa! Unfortunately it was Moor or less raised to the ground in the 17th century ( blame the French!). This was also 7 duram but was worthwhile as we wandered around for an hour and a half looking at things including a collection of storks in a huge nest.

    We headed back North via the East of the city soaking in the sights, sounds colours and smells of the city. A bustling hub of commerce with la guy with 12 chickens tied to the back of his motorcycle in one direction whilst another passes with 12 trays of eggs front and back on another.

    Starting to feel hungry we sought out lunch, but whilst I was distracted buying a gift, Andrew got another best friend! We left with this friend staying that his passing friend was on the way to the market so we could follow him... we did and 10 mins later we arrived ... at the tannery!😀

    Nooo! We returned to the Riad for advice on a good place to eat. The place we ate was good , close to the Foundouk where we had eaten the night before. The food was great but the service was rather slow , partially because call to prayer happened half way through service and we lost half our waiters!

    After lunch we had about an hour and a half before we had to catch the taxi from the Riad so I went in search of some leather thongs (Aussie ) or Phillipe Filops (French) to replace the ones I broke on our second day! An interesting experience as they all seemed to start at 465 Duram a pair, but I ended up paying 140 in the 3rd shop I visited after a long negotiation which flip flopped from French to English. Happy with my purchase I returned to the Riad only to be hijacked by the local mafia in their “ I’ll lead you around and around until you feel you should pay me to get back to the Riad” game........ I didn’t but the handler got rather aggressive before I managed to slip back into the Oasis of tranquility which is Riad Romance!

    Shorty we loaded our bikes and left the Riad for the Airport and the flight back to the UK.

    Thanks to Youness and Sam for their attention and making our stay in Marrakech an immense pleasure at the Riad Romance.    Read more

  • TravelerAtlas Mountains cycle tour
    Day 8

    Gear Review - Cycling Overview

    October 29, 2019 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Apart from 2 punctures on the final day all my equipment worked faultlessly. I found no need for the spare disc pads I took, but was reassured to have them. The new wheel with the www.k-o-m.co.uk hub equipped with Diamond Hard Surfaces Adm tm coated spigots were reliable and made a reassuring clicky noise when free wheeling!

    My kit list included;

    Giant Roam bike , Great brand - hard tail cross; trusty as ever used in our Iceland trip. Tyres are a mix of road and off road. Bit susceptible to large “sharp” edges tho!

    Paniers - Altura Night Vision ; great kit hold loads, easy to fit and use.

    Garmin 820 - reliable and accurate as ever (found on the side of the road in the UK in 2016!)

    Rucksack - Osprey Synchro 15L - brilliant! lots of useful pockets practical and water proof cover! Brilliant brand!
    Shoes;

    Water bottles !; essential bit of kit. My favourite was my metal vacuum bottle , a give away from London Surrey Sportif! Kept in my rucksack cool water all day (as long as u don’t drink it!)

    Best tip; google maps allows you to download a navigatable off line map version to allow you to save cost on data! (Thanks Andrew!)

    Well that’s it for this trip off to plan the next biking adventure.    Read more

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