• Ella Balagula
feb. – mar. 2025

Europe Spring 2025

Una aventura de 20 días de Ella Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    27 de febrero de 2025

    Selys encuentro in Belgium

    27 feb.–3 mar., Bélgica ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We started our trip by landing in Frankfurt airport. Our original plan was to rent a car and drive 3 hours to Liège in Belgium, the home for the encuentro, with a stop in Bonn for a VoiceMap tour about Beethoven, and a visit to Beethoven house museum. Unfortunately, given that our flight departed at 5 pm, we couldn’t really fall asleep that early and ended up landing having only slept for a couple of hours. We decided that driving after a sleepless night wasn’t the best choice, plus we’re too tired for a pleasant sightseeing. So we scratched the plan and instead ran to the train station to make a direct train to Liège. We just made the train with 2 minutes to spare, and 2.5 hrs later, we arrived to Liège. It’s one of the top 4 largest cities in Belgium with beautiful modern architecture, as evidenced by the stunning train station building. We then went to the hotel, rested and got ready for the first milonga of the Selys encuentro, which took place in a stunning historical ballroom in the older wing of the hotel. The next four days, until Monday morning, we did not leave the hotel, fully immersed in dancing. We danced, ate tasty meals and slept very little. We had 31 hours of dancing, and I enjoyed 83 magical tandas (which is about 17 hours of pure dancing) with great dancers, the most I ever danced in a single event. It was warm and friendly with a very high level of dancers, probably the best encuentro for us that we ever attended.Leer más

  • Athens - ancient Agora

    4 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    On Monday we slept late, had a nice breakfast and took a train back to Frankfurt, for our flight to Athens. We arrived fairly late in the evening, and I just rested, catching up on all the lost encuentro weekend sleep. On Tuesday morning, we took a VoiceMap tour of the ancient Agora. We were there back in 2012, and did a Rick Steves tour, but didn’t remember much. Our knowledge of Ancient Greek history and of Athens highlights was in strong need of a refresher. Last time we were in early June, and it was now definitely much better to walk around in cooler weather and without bus loads of tourists. Agora was an ancient marketplace, but also the seat of the newborn democracy, because this is where people would gather to debate and legislate, and where the seat of the first democratic government resided. There were also, of course, many religious temples, most in ruins, but the Temple of Zeus was incredibly well preserved. It was great to walk the same pathways as Aristotle and Socrates. We also saw the ruins of the prison where Socrates was being held before being executed by eating hemlock - a highly toxic poisonous plant. After Agora, we did another VoiceMap tour - the Greek gastronomy tour that took us to the food market and various food stores and eateries. We ended up eating at another restaurant near our hotel - quite inventive cuisine - incredible Greek salad and super fresh grilled sea bass filet.Leer más

  • Athens - Acropolis

    5 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today, we took a 2-hour VoiceMap tour of Athens jewel - Acropolis. Again, it made such a difference from last time to not be frying under the open Greek summer sun, and not fighting the hoards of people. The beauty of the off season traveling in full force. The tour was really interesting, covering a rich history of one of the world most iconic hills. On the slopes of the hill is one of the world’s first theaters, built specifically for plays and performances, unlike the ones for gladiator fights in Ancient Rome. The theater is actively used during the summer months now, and many celebrities performed there - from Luciano Pavarotti to Elton John. Most of the temples and structures on the Acropolis were built as a dedication to goddess Athena, after whom Athens is named. There were then multiple wars that destroyed or partially destroyed the temples - Persian and Trojan wars, then crusaders and later the Ottoman Turks. It’s a miracle that we can still see so much of its former glory. We learned about the marvelous building methods and skills of the ancient Greeks - enormous structure of the Parthenon was built in only 9 years! After the tour, we walked back to the hotel and had dinner again at the same restaurant Bandiera, ordering the same Greek salad and sea bass. Don’t fix what ain’t broken :)Leer más

  • Athens - Downtown and Acropolis museum

    6 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today, we started the day with the scrumptious breakfast at our hotel - a typical scrambled eggs with tomatoes dish, and massive pancakes 🙈 ! We then did a VoiceMap tour of downtown which covered layers of Greek history. We saw Greek parlament where change of the guards takes place ( we didn’t get to see it), then a conference hall where they celebrate important events and receive other heads of state. We learned about play writers of Ancient Greece whose dramas and comedies are still being performed around the world. We saw a huge Olympic stadium - it was first an Ancient Greek stadium, like the one on Olympia. It was in ruins and it was rebuilt in late 19th century to host the first modern Olympic Games. It is also the finish site of the Athens marathon. We also saw some impressive ruins of columns which were the remnants of a massive temple and saw the Herod’s Gate - Herod was a Roman emperor but he was a huge Helenopille - a big fan of Greek arts, literature and Gods. He played a big role in preserving many temples and art pieces. After the tour, we went to the Acropolis museum, which houses various sculptures and archeological objects found in the Acropolis. It’s a very modern museum, well laid out and with a great audio guide. It really brought to life for us the various layers of history of Acropolis and Greek arts and mythology. The museum is built over the excavated ancient village. And inside are well preserved or partially restored sculptures. Interestingly, the Parthenon and other temples were covered in stunning statues, but were knocked off by the Persians. The citizens of Athens then buried those sculptures in mud pits, and they were thus magically preserved. On the other hand, a couple of sculptures that were left intact outside, didn’t fair as well, eroded by the elements. Overall, it was a fascinating museum. Afterwards, I walked a bit with a portion of Rick Steves tour, learning about Greek Orthodox Church. I visited its main cathedral which is the seat of all of Greek Orthodox Church, like a Greek Vatican. There was also a monument to the Greek head Patriarch who was active during the Holocaust defending Jews and risking his own life. Afterwards, I went to the same restaurant again, but this time ordered a Greek salad and incredible chicken breast in fruit sauce.Leer más

  • Drive from Heraklion to Rethymno

    7 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    On Friday, we got up early, had the last scrumptious Athens breakfast, and took a 45min flight to Heraklion, Crete. We rented a car, and embarked on the first of many driving VoiceMap tours around the island. These 3-hour tours have been developed by a Dutch guy who lives on Crete, and calls himself Mr Rutaki - because he guides Routes, and Taki is diminutive in Greek. Today, the tour took us from Heraklion to Rethymno, which is a beautiful Venetian harbor on the west of Heraklion. Crete is home to one of the world’s oldest civilizations - Minoans who lived in 3000 BC. There are many excavation sites and a wealth of Archeological findings. Then there were Greeks, then Romans, then Venetians ruled from 12 to 16 centuries, then Ottoman Turks, until the independence in 1830. Mr. Rutaki took us on rural mountain roads among olive groves and through small villages. Given that it is now off season, the villages are now empty and pretty much all commercial activities are shut down and the stores are closed. Still, it was wonderful to drive through the villages and learn about Cretan traditions and ways of life. We arrived in Rethymno and had delicious dinner in one of the taverns.Leer más

  • Tour of Rethymno and drive to Chania

    8 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today, we started the day with a VoiceMap walking tour of Rethymno with Mr Rutaki. We explored a beautiful harbor and walked some winding Venetian streets. The signs of multiple layers of history were everywhere. There is a huge mosque looking building with a minaret, which was first a Byzantine church, then a mosque under the Ottomans, and then a church again, but they didn’t want to remove a beautiful minaret, so they left it. Now it’s an arts exhibition hall. We walked around the beautiful Rethymno fortress - I can imagine that in high season it would be packed, but now we were the only ones. Then we packed up, and left Rethymno, on a 3 hour drive west towards Chania with Mr Rutaki. We stopped in a small village to see its beautiful church, and on another stop, we walked towards a small chapel dedicated to 5 virgins, who according to a legend, were martyred for their Christian faith. It was in such a beautiful remote setting! The tour ended in a small town of Georgioupolis with beautiful lake and a small harbor. Then we drove 45 min to Chania, our next pit stop for the rest of the weekend. We had a quick dinner and went to a milonga that was advertised to us by the woman from Chania that we met at the encuentro in Venice. Unfortunately, the milonga was pretty empty, not clear why. But we chatted with the local dancers and had some nice dances.Leer más

  • Chania VoiceMap tour

    9 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we did a VoiceMap tour of Chania, and went to the Archeological museum. It was great to wander beautiful winding streets of Chania, and to admire Venetian harbor. Of course, again there are many layers of history, with the occasional minaret remaining from the Ottoman times. There were also the remnants of the Jewish population on Crete - an old synagogue from the 16 century. There were about 300 Jews on Crete in 1941, but they were all rounded up by the Nazis who occupied Crete and put on a ship heading to Auschwitz. They never made it, as the ship was bombarded by the allied forces and everyone on board died. The synagogue fell in despair and was rebuilt by a visiting Israeli Jew and now hosts a small museum. The Jewish community on Crete is tiny but uses this synagogue as a community place for connection. We then went to the Chania Archeological museum which displayed the artifacts from Neolithic times, to many Minoan civilization findings. It was really fascinating to see amazing pottery or beauty tools, such as tweezers from 2000 BC. Afterwards we had a nice dinner of lamb in a harbor tavern and walked to the lighthouse to watch a spectacular sunset. Afterwards, we left Chania and drove for two hours back west to Heraklion.Leer más

  • Drive from Malia to Agios Nikolaos

    10 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today we left Heraklion and drove west, on a 3 hr drive with Mr Rutaki VoiceMap to Agios Nikolaos. Typically, these drives take you on a winding roads around olive tree groves, through mountain villages, which are very sleepy with all commercial activity shut down for the season now. On the way, Mr Rutaki shares a lot of general info about Crete, which is somewhat quite repetitive on each of the drives. For example, we heard multiple times about the funeral and burial Cretan traditions, or types of olives and olive oil that exist, or the significance of small roadside candle shrines. Well, at least we hopefully will not forget it! Each drive though has a few of its distinct highlights. Today, we stopped at the cave where 3500 rebels and civilians were hiding during the ottoman times, and were all massacred. There is a small chapel inside the cave. In the high season you can probably explore the cave, but now no one was there and it was pitch dark, so we didn’t venture deep into the cave corridors with our flimsy phone flashlights. The next highlight was the gorgeous Mirabella bay and the Spinalonga island that we could see from the shore. It’s a 16 century Venetian fort, later turned into a leper colony. In high season boats take you on a tour of the small fortress but now we just admired it from the distance. We then arrived to Agios Nikolaos, a small town with the beach and lake and we stopped there for the night.Leer más

  • Driving in the South and Heraklion

    11 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This morning we had delicious Greek yogurt with thyme honey and left Agios Nikolaos to do another Mr Rutaki drive towards the south coast of Crete. A special mention goes to all the Greek yogurts in Greece. Even the most standard looking ones with 2% fat are the smoothest and creamiest tasting ever. We drove through some more mountain villages and olive groves and listened to mostly the same type of information with occasional new highlights. We started to get a bit saturated with Mr Rutaki and were glad that it was our last drive with him. The scenery though was stunning - the south is more covered with forests, and the limestone peaks which made it look like a much smaller version of Meteora. Even complete with a few chapels on top of the limestone peaks. After we finished the drive on the south coast, we drove 1.5 hrs back to Heraklion. Igor had to work in the afternoon, while I went for a nice long late lunch/early dinner at an amazing restaurant Peskesi and had the most delicious lamb I ever had on top of rice that was cooked in lamb juices. Even forgot to take a picture! Afterwards I did one last Mr Rutaki walking tour of Heraklion. I walked around the beautiful harbor and the Venetian center with some imposing Italian looking building and fountains. I saw some more beautiful churches and then walked back to the hotel.Leer más

  • Knossos and Archeological Museum

    12 de marzo, Grecia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Today was all about the Minoan civilization. We started the day by driving 15 min to Knossos - the ancient capital of the Minoan civilization around 3000 - 1500 BC. There was an enormous palace in Knossos, which has extensive fairly well preserved ruins. These ruins were discovered in the 19th century by the British archeologist Arthur Evans. Sir Evans dedicated many years of his life to preserving and restoring the Knossos palace. The result is impressive but quite controversial. Sir Evans led rebuilding of some parts of the palace to what he believed was the original state, including colors and frescoes. Given that he used modern materials such as cement, it’s clear that it’s just a replica, and we are not even sure what exactly the palace structures looked like, so a lot was the work of the Sir Evans imagination. I think we were a bit disappointed by the reconstruction, but still incredibly impressed by the sheer scale of the palace ruins. After the palace, we drove back to Heraklion and went to the Archeological Museum where most of the numerous findings form the Knossos ruins and from the other archaeological sites around Crete. We saw such masterpieces of the ancient civilization as the famous golden bees pendant form Malia, or the snake women from Knossos. The craftsmanship of the gorgeous pottery, or the miniature seals were astonishing. Hard to believe that they were created more than 4 millenniums ago. After the museum, we went back to the Peskeki restaurant and this time we had incredibly soft and delicious goat main dish.Leer más

  • Arriving to Rogaska Slatina

    13 de marzo, Eslovenia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We left Crete early in the morning and flew to Munich. There, we met our friend Ilona from Miami who flew from the US. We together took a flight to Zagreb, rented a car there and drove 1.5 hrs to Rogaška Slatina, home to our encuentro. Walking into the Grand Rogaška hotel, we were instantly greeted by all the magic and reminded why we keep returning to this special place (now for the fourth time!). The vibe is so unique - truly a mix of relaxing old world charm and belle époque of the golden age. The vinyl record player in the cafe, delicious apple and cherry strudels and the magnificence of the stunning Cristal hall all come together to envelop us in magic. We snacked on delicious 🍒 strudel and then I took Ilona for a quick walk of Rogaška center. As a bonus, we stopped by in one of the few boutiques and I bought two pretty bathing suits! And then in the evening, the encuentro started with a beautiful pre-milonga. A nice start to a magical weekend.Leer más

  • Friday at the encuentro

    14 de marzo, Eslovenia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We started our Friday with delicious breakfast. I typically happily have the same things there - buckwheat with a fried egg and chicken sausage, and cottage cheese with fruit compote. So good and full of protein to keep me dancing till the evening!! It was raining so I was happy to take a little nap after breakfast. We then started the typical marathon of the milongas. The afternoon one, from 2 pm - 6 pm. Followed by the delicious buffet dinner, hanging out with old and new friends. Then a quick one hour snooze for me. And an evening milonga 9 pm - 2 am. The music was so amazing and the dancing so captivating that we happily stayed form the first to last tanda. A quick snack of tea and apple strudel back in the room, while sharing the debriefing of our partners and songs. Then to bed for 6 hrs of sleep, only to be repeated tomorrow!Leer más

  • Saturday at Rogaska Slatina

    15 de marzo, Eslovenia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The same schedule followed on Saturday. The music selection by the DJs was absolutely captivating and we loved it, tanda after tanda, in our magical tango haven.

  • Sunday at the Encuentro

    16 de marzo, Eslovenia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was another whirlwind of dancing, eating delicious food during the milongas and afterwards, staying from the first to the last tandas, and then saying goodbye to the beautiful Cristal Hall. What an amazing experience - 31 hours of dancing over 4 days, beating my PR of tandas at Selys, with 86 tandas, with quite a high level of partners overall. Feet hurt, heart is full, ready to go home. Until the next time.Leer más

  • A day in NYC

    18 de marzo, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    To cap off the trip, I spent a very productive day in NYC on the way back. It was planned to do an annual doctor checkup circuit. But in between, I managed to see Lauren and Gita, to have 3 delicious meals and to clock in 20k steps around sunny and beautiful midtown and UWS. Amazing trip overall.Leer más

    Fin del viaje
    18 de marzo de 2025