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  • Paul Williams

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León
    11

    Walking Day 7 to Trabadelo

    31 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Last night we are at the hostel bar, her had tapas and bocodillos with theresa sausage with beer and wine. A short day today, i left Villafranca before the rest of the group and walked alone 6 miles to Trabadelo. I was basically walking through a canyon with no wrong turns to be made. The Camino runs along a 2 lane road, with a 4 lane highway overhead. It seemed like more than 6 miles but I was taking my time. Our hostel in Trabadelo is an old stone building beautifully finished. While sitting and waiting for the hostel to open, we spoke with a group from Australia, and an older woman from California. The Californian woman had to be close to 80 or more, she was walking alone carrying her pack. She was cheerful and interesting to talk to. We shared a dinner with a another group from Queensland Australia. It was a loud and raucous group. The food here at El Puente Peregrino is all vegan, but the vegetables here are more flavorful and the bread is delicious. The host picked some if the vegetables across the street for our dinneraLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León
    11

    Walking Day 8 to O'Cebreiro

    1 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Milestones today, we have walked over 100 miles, (the halfway point),completed León and entered the Provincia de Galicia. I walked 13.9 miles with an elevation gain of 2630 '. We are now in O'Cebreuro at 4250'. I walked mostly alone today, but i had some encounters with our dinner companions from last night. I stopped by a spring in a small village to put on sunscreen, and left without my poles. I realized this about a half mile later, so i went back with shame to retrieve them, but i am glad i did. The next section we climbed 2200' in 4 miles. We climbed muddy switchbacks in the forest. I leap frogged with a cyclist determined not to walk the bike even 1 step. I honestly don't know how he did it, but we cheered when he finally made it to the top. I thought it was the top but we still had 3 miles of incline to go. We had lunch there and prepared for the next mountain. On the next stage I had to deal with the rain as well. I walked a bit with an Australian woman who was just as determined as the cyclist. Finally we arrived in O'Cebreuro, a beautiful medieval village on top of a mountain. The Peregrinos you meet on the Camino are amazing. The all accepted a great challenge and have a powerful will to get to Santiago, and they come from all points on the globe to do it. There are no awards or benefits for this accomplishment, except for the riches of living, loving and laughterLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Camino Peregrinos mass in O'Cebreuro

    1 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I stopped to look inside the church at O'Cebreuro and i found the pilgrim mass already in progress, it was 7:15. There were no vacent seats so i stood in the back. After the service, the priest invited all the pilgrims to form a circle around the front of the church for a Peregrino blessing. Then the priest asked which languages were represented today. He then asked for one spokesman for each language to read the blessing. There were about a dozen languages present. (Referring to the yellow arrows on the Camino) the priest said: The Yellow Way is Love. It was a very powerful momentLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León
    1

    Walking Day 9 to Triacastela

    2 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Walked e 14.2 miles today back down the mountain we walked up yesterday. It was quite cold early. We didn't get cafe or breakfast until about 9:30 when we came across a bar to serve us. I had delicious huevos y tostadas. I was walking into a small farm village, and to my surprise, un toro gránde was headed straight for me. He swayed he head and long horns, i think to designate how much berth he should be granted, he came to about 12' from me and then turned left into his barn. I remember reading somewhere in the guide books that toros get the right of way on the Camino. It was apparent on this section of the trail that the livestock use the trail as well. Shortly after that, I came across a girl and her herding dogs guiding cattle across the road and across the Camino. Today we enjoyed many spectacular vistas but i have to watch the path because a misstep could be a very long fall. Then we descended into the village of Triacastla. We found the group from Australia that we dined with 2 nights ago at the cafe as we entered the villageLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León
    1
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    Walking Day 10 to Somos y Sarria

    3 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Walked 16.7 miles today. First, today we had to choose between a short route or a longer route that passes by El Monasterio de San Julián de Samos. I chose the longer route, and walked start to Sarria with Luis. Luis is an internatioal accountant from Puerto Rico who is the same age as me and walks at the same pace. Interestingly,he lived in Fredonia for awhile several years ago to learn English. Luis is a very kind man who was very outgoing and made sure the other peregrinos were doing OK. He gave some Tylenol and advised an older woman with some serious ankle pain. I didn't eat very much today, and ran out of water. We stopped just before Sarria for water, and Luis bought us gránde beers and tapas. Luis pointed me toward my hotel and we each went our way. I'm pretty sure we'll meet again because our itineraries are similar. For dinner we stopped by a nearby pizzeria. Eduin, an immigrant from the Dominican Republic poured his whole heart into making us feel welcome and treating us like royalty. We had a great time there. He made us an expresso that was so good it was worth keeping me from sleepingLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Recovery day in Sarria

    4 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Didn't sleep very well last night, but we scheduled the hotel breakfast for 730, so i made it downstairs for that. I rested a little and then found a lavenderia to wash my clothes and got my chores out of the way. We went back to our favorite pizzeria for a cáfe con leche and a croissant, where Kristina from Vancouver joined us. There was a car show outside, so it was very busy. The car show was interesting, what you would expect with more smaller and European cars. We crossed paths with Dan from LA again, one of the first pilgrims we met on the Camino. Last rest day before Santiago, 130 miles behind me, 71 miles remain. We finished our stay in Sarria with a Galician dinner at a Galician pubLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Walking Day 11 to Portomarin

    5 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    This vibe of the Camino has significantly changed. The minimum requirement to qualify is 100km. Sarria is 114km, so many groups start in Sarria and the trail was crowded today. I didn't see any of my Camino friends today through the crowds. We stopped for lunch at a remote but busy cáfe. I went to stand in line for the baño behind Nick and Cam, and the woman behind me insisted on seeing my receipt from the cáfe because the sign said"parton's only". Cam got annoyed and walked to our table and got our receipts. Cam handed me mine and i put it in my pocket. I didn't show it to her because i felt no obligation to, but later I looked and saw it was just a piece of paper. lol. A word of wisdom, don't piss off the guy ahead of you in the baño line. About 3 miles before my destination, i had to choose between the historic route and the secondary route. I chose the historic route, and i had the trail all to myself again. The trail was barely worn at all and i began to wonder if there was a reason i was alone. Eventually i came to the bridge across the Rio Miño river where the trails rejoined. After crossing the bridge, i climbed the giant stairs into Portomarin. I was the last of our group to arrive because i took the longer route. It's hard not to be judgemental of the 100km peregrinos, but then, I'm a 300km peregrino. What do the 800km peregrinos think of me? anyway, this section of the Camino is very relaxing, easy and beautiful. I attended 8pm mass. We discovered the church had be relocated from another location because they built a damLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Walking Day 12 to Palas de Rei

    6 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    16.7 miles today, fairly easy terrain. We started with breakfast in our apartment because we weren't sure if we would find a cáfe right away. It was very foggy until 9am or so so we couldn't see much. We crossed the river and headed up a steep incline. It was difficult to keep up with Nick, but i spotted the Australian woman with the pink socks. Her pace suited me better so I walked with her A few days ago, we climbed the mountain into O'Cebreuro together. Her name is Rachel and her husband was right behind her. She is a teacher and she reminded me of my friend Anita D. We walked together 5 miles.A little later I passed by a Spanish woman in obvious pain with her feet. My Spanish is good enough that i could ask her if i could help her , i told her i had Advil if she needed it. She started her Camino in Ponfarrada. Shortly after that there were 4 peregrinos attending an older woman who had fallen. She insisted she was alright but she looked like she should call it a day. Next i had a short conversation with a USPS retired letter carrier from Orange Co. CA. At the top of a long climb up a hill, i meet Tracy, a retired Chemistry teacher from Long Island and her daughter Grace. They started their Camino yesterday in Sarria. We walked together about 2 miles. I rested a few minutes and started back to walking with Chris from somewhere near San Jose CA. He is an improv musician and was carrying his alto saxophone with him. I walked with Chris into Palas de Rei. He said he may play on the street tonight. Today felt a lot more like the Camino than yesterday. It was still more crowded, but it seemed that the larger groups had broken up, and it didn't seem as congested as it did yesterday, but it was a little hotter today. In the evening we congregated, Chris, Bosco, the USPS retired and his brother and a few others i didn't recognizeLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Walking Day 13 to Arzua

    7 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    Started in the dark this morning, it had rained heavily last night and was still raining lightly to moderately. I soon got ahead of the group and was walking alone. It's a little more difficult to walk with someone else in the rain because it's difficult to hear with the hoods up. At some point i missed a turn and got on a complimentario route. I don't have maps, so i had to decide to go forward or back. There was absolutely no one around to ask. Lost in Spain. I pressed forward and i rejoined the main trail in about 200 meters. It rained nearly all day and quite heavily at times. I walked and had lunch with a mother daughter team from London,Addie and Brie. They helped me map my route to the Casa Maia, my room for tonight. Tired, after 19 miles walking, there was no one there to let me into my room. I messaged them, but i got no response. I sat for about an hour waiting, then decided to walk to the apartment the other 5 had rented and get my luggage. Doug was able get a hold of Casa de Maia, so by time I returned with my luggage i could get in. There is one other couple sharing the apartment. John and Elaine from New Zealand ,the are walking the Camino, starting in France. I asked them if they wanted to join our group for dinner and they accepted. Each evening it is new collection of international new best friends. Everyone is welcomed and invited to the table. There is something sacred about thatLäs mer

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  • Paul WilliamsResenärCamino de Santiago de León

    Day 14 Walking to O'Pedrouzo

    8 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Walked 12.5 miles today. I started today by backtracking 1 km to drop off my luggage and get some Euros from the ATM. It was raining when we started but it didn't last long. Shortly after i started, Luis joined me again. We enjoy walking together and the kilometers go by quickly. Luis challenges me to a quicker pace,about 12 minutes per km. Even then, a group of about 8 teenagers passed, us singing in Spanish and clapping to their music. The Camino was busy today, a steady stream of peregrinos. We passed two men, one man had 1 leg and crutches. They were both continuously praying out loud.i saw them yesterday, praying then too.. i thought i was well ahead of my group, but Matt caught up to me. He was jogging, he said he was trying to keep up with a girl ahead of him, who was also jogging lol. A woman from Durham NC joked with us about doing our work while on the Camino. Luis and i arrived at O'Pedrouo about 12:30. We stopped for un cerveza before finding our room. John and Elaine from my apartment last night arrived at the same time. Luis and i jogged the last km, because it started to pour. We had dinner at a small steakhouse where they give you a cut of steak and shot plate and you cook your own steak at your table.Läs mer

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