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Japan, Kumano Kodo
  • Gary Bozin
  • Mary Ramirez
  • Gary Bozin
  • Mary Ramirez

Japan, Kumano Kodo

A 29-day adventure by Gary & Mary Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 30, 2026
    Japan, Kumano Kodo

    10 hour fight to Narita

    Mar 31–Apr 1 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Easy, comfortable flight got is to Tokyo, Narita airport at 9pm the next day. Booked a room near the airport to head to Osaka in the morning. No exciting meals yet.

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Bullet train
    Bento box for the rideOf course the trains bathroom has a bidetDodgers are haunting meOur HotelDotonbori riverOctopus balls- cheesy deliciousnessWagu beef

    Narita to Osaka

    April 1 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Navigated the bullet train to Osaka. Picked up Bento boxes for the ride. Only a slight hitch. Luckily I stuck my foot in the door and halted the train. No harm no foul. Amazing fast and smooth.
    Arrived in Osaka at our very unique hotel by 3pm. Great location too. Enjoyed walking out neighborhood in the rain. I think shopping is the national pastime.
    Got to try takoyaki (octopus balls), wagu beef and even Japanese whiskey.
    We're pretty jet lagged so back at the hotel by 9.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Hotel coffee bar. So many choices, to make the perfect pour over
    TV while we showerDotonbori river1Largest mollusk I've seenToro to die forKitchenware streetKyocera stadium

    Osaka day 2

    April 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Coffee at the coffee bar in our hotel. This is a cool hotel.
    First stop Komura market. One food stall after another. We started with Toro, oysters and scallops. Great choice. The Toro was phenomenal. Then walked to the kitchenware street... there is one and it has everything. Unfortunately, we can't buy anything until after our hike.
    Lunch was a bowl of pork bone Ramen., delish.
    Then we were ready for some baseball, Japanese style. They are into it. They cheer, sing, there's percussion and horns and cheerleaders and everyone sings pretty much all the time. It was fun.
    A long walk, another Ramen home.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Abalone and otoro tunaShinsekiShe didn't want to be outdone by the cherry treesOsaka castleJapan's smallest shrineToo crowded. We thought it would be more intimateLate night dinner

    Osaka day 4

    April 3 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Covered lots of ground today. Started around the neighborhood to see moss statues and the cement little people.
    Another stop at Kumara market for another round of seafood. We'll be back.
    Walked to Shinseki (retro district) which was cool, need to get back there before we leave.
    Hotel pitstop then to Osaka castle for back to back walking tours. Shems from France gave us so much japan knowledge.
    The cherry blossoms are in full display!!!    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Figured out the umbrella stand
    Just liked it1Velour seats on the subwayShinseki at nightTower viewTower selfie"Things as they ought to be."

    Osaka Day 4

    April 4 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Osaka museum of housing and living. Very cool life size recreation of a neighborhood in Osaka in the 1830's. We'll done with lots of cool pictures, diaramas and full size exhibits. Sorry, no pictures.
    Walked back to Shinsekai the retro district.
    Went up the tower for a great 360 view of the city.
    Enjoyed a drink in a tiny stand up bar. Actually there were 6 seats. The owner kept 2 vacant for regulars. Nice conversation with him and the 2 spanish speaking tourists.
    Another good day of walking and sightseeing.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Cherry blossom festival - petting zooUmeda Sky tower - two forty story buildings attached by a garden11Whiskey break

    Osaka day 5

    April 5 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Happy Easter! - 11am service at the Lifehouse international church. Young vibrant service and message.
    Walked along Okowa river. Huge cherry blossom festival. So many people picnicking under the trees. Lots of good street food, people watching and a river cruise.
    Metro and walk to the Uneda Sky Building. Walked home to energize with a so at a whiskey bar. Nice chat with an ausie.
    Delicious dinner near the hotel and a long walk around the neighborhood. We walk and always find new things.
    Ice cream, movie and bed.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Park your baby while in the bathroomPesto Ramen

    O aka day 6

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Visited a shrine with a luxury hotel built on top of it. Then back to Kuromon market for sushi and snacks. 2nd time eating the tuna rice ball which is super good. Sold at convenience stores and restaurants.
    Subway to the Osaka aquarium which was amazing. They have 2 whale sharks and an exhibit which takes you around the world.
    Italian inspired Ramen them a stop at a small whiskey bar.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    The start
    Need to find out about the red capsMandarin trees - lucky enough to find a few on the roadIndividually protected1Mary found hot tea in a vending machineKoi farmPrivate tour by a Shintu priestOur bedroomDinner was so good. Local ingredients and home made soy sauceWeird noises from under the creek

    First day on the Komano Kodo

    April 7 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Left Osaka early and navigated 3 trains to Shimizu-ura where we started our pilgrimage. We left the crowds behind as we hiked beautiful landscapes of citrus groves, bamboo and pines. Some pretty steep climbs and threats of rain but we stayed the course and we were rewarded with cultural insights and spiritual blessings.
    This is supposed to be the hike of 99 shrines but I think we saw that many today.
    We were met at the train station by Mikon the host of tonight's Ryokan. She prepared us a lovely meal and we're left to relax and enjoy a hot bath.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Saying good bye to our host
    Start of today's walk1Sweating Joji. Gives strength to pilgrims. He had a drop off sweat on his browGoing over that mountain.First pilgrims we sawCan't get enough of spring colors1Last night's host made us a Bento snack.Only you can prevent forest firesHuge gong.Black bamboo shop. Craftsman and his daughter.Dojo-ji TempleCharacters in scroll story. Not a Happy endingThis and next 2 pictures were dinner

    KK day 2 Yuasa to Hidaka

    April 8 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Slept well and woke up to a delicious Bento Box breakfast. After hugging our host goodbye we were picked up by taxi and does of at our next starting point, Goose Oji Ruins.
    Not a long walk but it was steep and rocky. A couple of times we thought we missed the trail.
    A fast of beautiful scenery, peace and serenity. We saw 2 other pilgrims.
    We passed many shrines, a couple and stopped by a black bamboo workshop. Dried bamboo is heated causing the oil to turn it a beautiful ebony color.
    We were treated to a private tour of a Temple by our host. Additionally, one of the monks told us an ancient myth using copies of several hundred year old scrolls... such a treat.
    Our guest house is very beautiful, but cold. Our hosts are generous and really want us to learn and experience Japanese culture.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Good bye to last evening's hosts
    The start of day 3, TakijiriSteeper than it looksLegend had it that of you pas through this tiny crevice you will have an easy childbirthThis is the other end. We didn't try itMaybe you can read thisPilgrims!Yes, that's the trailCloserLove the little Ojis. No rain tomorrow?Found a sweet little cafeOur little guest room

    K. K.- day 3 Takijiri to Takahara

    April 9 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Said goodbye to our hosts. Driven to Gobo Station where we took a train to the start of our next leg in Takahara.
    Starting to see many pilgrims as this is a traditional starting point.
    Today was less miles but it started with 1 km straight up on very rocky and unstable ground. We thought yesterday was hard. So beautiful though. Amazing views, lush forests and rivers. Of course many shrines and Ojis. We've been praying for no rain and today we were blessed. Tomorrow, it's supposed to pour all day.
    We arrived in Takaha in time to walk another 2 km to a bus stop to get to our guest house. We were welcomed by a lovely couple who offered us hot tea and a cookie and helped us plan for our journey tomorrow.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Our hosts
    Kept waiving until we were out of siteThe startGetting the rhythmHe likes the rainTo infinity and beyondTea leavesThis is an Out House with a heated seatOji familyThe holy grail, Kumano Hongo TaishaSantiago 10,855 km away but so closeBridge to our hotelOur private Onsen, very hotWe had a view of the cherry tree as we soaked our tired bodiesAppetizersSushiThey called it an angel fishHot potTempura1Showing off our dual stamp on our passports, in our Yukatas

    KK day 4 - we're wet dual pilgrims!!!

    April 10 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Heavy rain forecasted all day so our plans changed. We still walked but a shorter route. We made it to 5 shrines, enough to qualify and obtain our dual pilgrim certificate.
    Left our guest house after a nice breakfast and a Bento Box to go. Put on ponchos and never took them off.
    Bus to the starting point with a large group of wet pilgrims. People were upbeat though. We met a group of "older" Chinese pilgrims that planned on jumping ito a van but changed there minds when they saw so many of us smiling through the rain.
    Was't easy by any means though a lot of hills, mud, rocks and debris.
    We were greeted at the pilgrims office with smiles in our accomplishments. Dual pilgrims are still not super common.
    Arrived at our ritzy Onsen in time to enjoy a private bath and a 12 course celebratory meal.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Breakfast at our Onsen
    Bye hotelHayatama Grand ShrineTrail up to Nachi falls and shrine. 800 year old cedar trees called husband and wifeAlmost there"3" story pagodaTop of the pagodaOcean in the distanceNachi fallsDressed for dinnerI always eat too much at buffets

    Wrapping up the Komano Kodo

    April 11 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Left our amazing hotel and took a bus to Shingo to visit the Hayatama Grand Shrine. Not a lot of kms but a lot of steep stairs. Then we took a train and a bus to get to Nachi to see yet another shrine and a waterfall.
    So many steep and rocky stairs. 75 degrees today. We missed the rain.
    The water fall dropped 400 ft and was really flowing as a result of the rain. The shrine was impressive too. We also visited a4 store pagoda (3 here, they don't count the bottom floor). It was full of interesting artwork.
    Back to our last KK hotel. Another beautiful place right on the ocean. No private Onsen.
    Lots of snacks and food and An amazing buffet. I hate buffets, I eat too much and I did.
    Tomorrow we stay in another hotel here in Kii Katsuura.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Last night's hotel
    Amazing massage chairStill at the old hotelMy turnWalked all along these rocks. Like our own private breahTuna museumPublic hot soaking foot and hand basinsOur viewOur new roomDelicious eel dinner

    Extra Day Kii Kitsuura

    April 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Decided to stay an extra night in this sleepy fishing village. So glad we did. We did change hotels as the one we were in was booked. So lucky as today's hotel was a lot less expensive. Not as luxurious but right on the water giving our room an amazing view and easy access to the shore too.
    Spent the day walking around town, visiting the tuna museum, walking along the shore then soaking in the outdoor Onsen. There are separate pools for men and women. We were lucky to be alone in each.
    Walked to town for an amazing dinner cooked by a lovely couple. They were so friendly.
    Home by nine for an early morning activity.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    BreakfastCheck out the big blue finSo many, most were albacore1000 lb port recordLunch plate 1Lunch plate 2, BBQ'd marinated tuna collar. So tasty. Wish I could have 1 more.Our guide.

    Kii Katsuura to Nara

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Got up early for our tuna auction tour. Kii Katsuura produces the largest catch of tuna in Japan. We saw them auction 1500 tuna, there were 2 auctions that day; yellow tail, blue fin, big eye, albacore, and 2 swordfish. It was quite the spectacle.
    After a delicious tuna lunch we strolled around town a little and trained it to Nara.
    Highly recommend a visit to this quiet fishing village.
    Didn't get to our hotel until 7ish. We're in a great location. We walked out neighborhood and found a tasty meal.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Tip of the ice berg
    1We were cracking upBudha body guardGiant BudhaMade it to the top1They're cute until they're notTea houseWant oneJapanese hotdog. Mixture of pork and beef and great seasoning.This guy caught a 15lb bass. With his own lure. He owns Japanese denim storeCinema Old FashionedGrilled stingray. Similar to salmon candy.Crazy good RamenAlso crazy good

    Nara - yes deer

    April 14 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Got an early start for us. Planned on a day of walking/hiking the expansive Nara Park and Nara Machi, the craft center with traditional houses.
    We expected a small town but Nara is huge and we only saw a small part of it.
    Okay, the park is the big draw, it is teeming with free range deer chasing tourists to get crackers. Check out the video. There are hundreds, maybe thousands, of deer. The park also has several temples and shrines and an impressive museum with Japan's largest Budha.
    After having our fill of being harassed by deer we hiked 500 stairs and a trail up to the top of Wakayama "hill". What a beautiful view.
    We spent the rest of the day in Naramachi browsing shops and trying not to buy anything. We don't have luggage space until Kyoto. Only bought one handmade whiskey glass and a couple small trinkets.
    A few snacks along the way. The best "hotdog" ever, grilled stingray wing and Ramen. Oh, an amazing old fashioned.
    Really nice day.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Water projection
    Note the 17 year old. So tasty.I do need a knife. Global was Bourdain's knife of choiceThese are so good.

    Nara to Kyoto

    April 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Left Nara at noon. Trained it to Kyoto. We're getting good at trains. Arrived to rain but we were able to check into our hotel early. Our extra bag was waiting for us. The baggage delivery service is a great convenience. Ten dollars sends a suitcase to any hotel in Japan.
    After strategically unpacking and tetrissing our belongs in our Japanese style(small) room, we set out to check out the neighborhood.
    It's super lively with lots of shops and restaurants all around us. With our hiking stuff packed and set to go on ahead to tokyo we are able to buy things we want to bring home. Mary and I both bought Yukatas (look it up). We seem to be assimulatng to the culture well. I browsed my first tackle store and can't wait to get to tokyo.
    Enjoyed snacks, dinner and a whiskey flight before heading to 7/11 for the world famous creme brulee desert to bring home. Looking forward to tomorrow.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Gion district, along the creek
    Our cooking class.Passed the taste testThe GionHuge float carried by a brigade of people during the paradeJust another vending machine on the sidewalk. I guess the kids are pretty honest in Japan.Wagu tacos anyone?I may be bringing this one home

    Kyoto day 2

    April 16 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Started the morning with a cooking class. Made 2 types of Ramen (miso & soy), gyoza and onigiri. Fun and yummy. Walked around the Gion district which is artsy and lively.
    Mary had a sewing class, I took a nap.
    We took a quick run through the Nishiki market, right before closing, for a snack. Then walked the neighborhood to pick up a few gifts.
    Wanted to try a pizzeria we heard about but it was closed :( . We opted for wagu tacos instead, which were incredible.
    Stopped at our local whiskey bar and found our new favorite Japanese whiskey.
    Home kind of early for an early outing.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Kyoto Station rush hour
    Fushimi Shrine1000 torii gatesBamboo forestJojisGolden PavilionCurryRyoa TempleZen Rock Garden, Apparently there are 16 rocks but humans can only see 15Back to Kyoto StationPiazza ovenNote Caputo Napolitan flourSo goodAlso do good. Mary is pointing to her favorite.

    Kyoto - Day 3

    April 17 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Early morning 5hr. walking tour got us going and out of the house by 7:30. Met our guide and we were please to find out it was just us.
    Packed with sights including; the Golden Palace, the Bamboo forest, 1,000 torii gates, Fushimi Inari Shrine, etc. Busses and trains.
    Our guide was a very young but bright student.
    After the tour we had a curry lunch and visited the Rock Garden at the Ryoanji Temple. Long walk back, a little shopping, pizza dinner and an amazing Napoli style pizzaria. They were delicious.
    Walked home by way of desert and whiskey. All in all a very nice and tiring day.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Cool park with turtle shaped rocks
    ??Philosopher's PathTeriyaki wagu burger. So goodRarity in JapanTrail up to the waterfallSilver PavilionLamb bbq7/11, not desert

    Kyoto -day4

    April 18 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Slept in today. Took a bus to the Silver Pavilion and the Philosopher's Path. The Philosopher's Path is a 2km tranquil walk along a creek lined with trees and flowering plants. At the end we hiked up a trail to a small waterfall. Mary almost got attacked by a snake. Lucky I was there.
    We walked to the silver pavilion, yes it's another Temple. Beautiful Japanese landscaping. Caught another bus home and took a little nap before heading out to dinner.
    Getting good at busses.
    We were given a recommendation to try a lamb BBQ place and it was delicious. We feasted on lamb, veggies and French wine.
    We walked the neighborhood and had an after dinner Shoju and Old Fashioned at cozy bar. We were the only ones there and the bartender was fun to talk to. Quick stop at 7/11 to grab desert and home by midnight.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Model train diarama
    Accident scene, with guy giving cprNight scenesRomantic TrainView from the train. We'd soon be down thereSome areas didn't seem wide enoughOn water pit stopChef's menu, appetizerLobster gratinSalad course , sorry never was able to take a picture before we startedSeafood pastaBeef courseNice night to sit along the riverRight before home

    Kyoto - day 5, last day

    April 19 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Out by 9 to catch the Romantic Train which goes up the Katsuura River. First stop was the largest model train layout in Japan. What a cool set up. So many things going on. Check out the accident scene. There are paramedics giving cpr. Actually pumping a figure's chest.
    We took the train up river. It's a very old train with wooden seats and a coal powered engine. The ride was beautiful. We rode the river rapids back. Really beautiful. We could only imagine what it was like a couple weeks ago with all the cherry blossoms.
    Lots of walking around the neighborhood and came back to get ready for dinner.
    Had an amazing chef's menu dinner at a restaurant near the house. Not sure how many courses but we were stuffed and with wine it was $72.
    Walked along the river and came home to pack.
    Love Kyoto. Off to tokyo tomorrow.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Name of Creekside cafe, BadBadNotGood
    Shinkansen. 200mpTokyo SkytreeCool buildingDinnerCrazy busy department store. Open 24 hours and it's packed all the timeAfter dinner Manhattans

    Kyoto to day 1 Tokyo - QUAKE!

    April 20 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After coffee by our little creek we caught the bullet train to Tokyo. Two hundred miles an hour! Our hopes of seeing Fuji were dashed. Either we slept through it or it was too cloudy.
    Arrived in Tokyo at 3 checked into our hotel only to find out it was the smallest room yet. Wasn't going to work as we are accumulating additional suitcases as we are getting to the end. We were able to upgrade to a bigger room on a lower floor just in time to experience the 7.4 earthquake. Our building swayed for what seemed like minutes. Not violently but scaringly long.
    After escaping death we went out to check out the neighborhood. I think we are in a good spot. We found a good restaurant and a neighborhood bar.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Breakfast at Tiffany's
    Wild mushroom consume.Tomato salad. They are so sweet hereScrambled eggs with bacon... weakest linkSmoked salmon, prosciutto, breads, etcDesert, vanilla yogurt, acai sherbet and granolaLattes1The staircaseThe staircase in actionThe last Shogun, the real one the TV show is aboutGo go godzillaTokyo SkytreeI handed my order to herShe pushed this towards me and closed the hatchThey're are about 10 of these "booths"

    Tokyo day 2 - Breakfast at Tiffany's

    April 21 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Figured out Tokyo's subway and made our way to Ginzo district for brunch at Tiffany's Tokyo flagship store. Really nice experience and the food was very good too.
    We then walked an hour to the Akihabara district to meet a guide for a walking tour. Lucky us, there was only 2 other people and one was a guide in training. Our guide showed us around Akihabara and Ueno. Akihabara is a lively district, the hub of electronics, gaming, and Anime. She gave us a very good Japanese history lesson.
    After the tour we needed an energy boost so we stopped for snack and a beverage.
    A little shopping then went to Ichiran Ramen for the best Ramen. We even got to sit in the private Ramen booths. It's like a open cubicle with a opening to hand our orders to a person you can't see. Food appears and we eat. The broth was delicious and the egg cooked perfect.
    Walked home to find out local bar was filled with a private party. Kind of disappointed.
    At least were home early. It was a long day. Pretty much non stop walking for 13 hours.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    Big thunder mountainJungle cruiseRailroad - doesn't go around while park. But has similar diaramasIt's a small worldPirates of the CaribbeanSplash mountainBaymax - lunch, half curry half stew, all goodToon townBlue Bayou restaurant

    Tokyo - day 3 SURPRISE!

    April 22 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Well, last night, sometime after 12 we realized we had Disney tickets for today. We put the date in our Google calendar before we left but since japan is 16 hours ahead it changed our date a day forward. We were so freaked. We hadn't done any planning and it meant we had to get up super early. Tokyo Disney is always super busy and there alot of gimmicks you need to get the rides we wanted.
    Anyway, it all worked out. We navigated 3 trains, got there by 8 and had a great time. And it turns out if we did have tickets tomorrow it is going to rain.
    Tokyo Disney is divided into 2 theme parks, Disneyland and Disney Sea. We opted for Land. It had a lot of the same rides as CA but many are more spread out as there is more property. It's missing some good ones and some are moved into Disney Sea. No Matterhorn and no space mountain! We utilized several fast passes and passed on the rides with 2 hour waits.
    Prices are a lot cheaper and they're some interesting food options. We made it until 8pm and decided to have dinner and call it a day.
    Stopped at our local bar for a Manhattan and home.
    Hopefully, no surprises tomorrow.    Read more

  • Japan, Kumano Kodo
    The beginning of kitchenware street
    Shibuya Crossing. On a weekend day 10,000 people cross each green lightShibuyaDrunk AlleyCool rooftop park with a skate park, climbing wall, volleyball, trees, etc.Nachi the dog who waited everyday for his owner... watch the movieKatsuKatsu

    Tokyo - day 4, rain, rain, go....

    April 23 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Slept in and woke up to rain. Well we had a plan and we were going to stick to it. We did, and we got wet but things were a little less busy.
    Went to the kitchenware street, which was so cool. Shop after shop of kitchen supplies. I could have bought so much if I brought my pick-up truck. Even so, I bought a few "necessities". Then off to the fishing tackle store. Another "happy place". Bought a few more necessities. Then had a wonderful lunch at a tiny family restaurant. Mary had yakisoba and I had nasi Goran both so good
    Then we met a guide for a walking tour of Shibuya. What a wild neighborhood. We wished we picked a hotel closer. We might be there every night. Anyway, we experienced the shibuya crossing and took in the neighborhood.
    For dinner, we went to a Katsu place, which was recommended to us, Thank you. Stopped for a drink... still hoping the rain would stop. Well it didn't. We found the subway and made it home by midnight.... by way of 7/11 for another creme brulee.
    It never did stop raining.    Read more