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Iceland

April 2023
The land of fire and ice Read more
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  • Iceland

    Planning

    April 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    A trip to Iceland has been a dream of mine for some time now - rolling hills, expansive coastlines and over 10,000 waterfalls - sign me up! In order to see all that Iceland has to offer, renting a camper van and driving the perimeter of the country (along the ring road) seemed to be the best method.

    We booked the “Happy 2- 3pax” automatic camper van through Happy Campers Iceland. The nice thing about this van is that it has a table that converts to a bed, which is ideal with the wicked weather systems Iceland has blowing through. Plus it will double as extra space to cook/prep meals on!

    Packed the Nikon D5500 DSLR - it will be put to good use this trip! Only 2 more sleep and we are off!    Read more

  • Iceland
    1
    Day 2

    Day 1

    April 21, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After a “restful” 2 hour sleep on the plane we landed at 6:15am local time (aka 11:15pm PST). We loaded up on some alcoholic beverages at duty free as Iceland is notorious for sky high prices and was picked up by the Happy Camper shuttle to get our camper van! To our surprise, we received a brand new version of the van we reserved with less than a 1000km on it. A nice perk is that the van came with free wifi which we found useful for the occasional Google search and paying for our first campground (using the Parka app).

    We had to delay our trip to the Blue Lagoon until 1pm due to neglecting to booking in advance but this gave us time to check out the Viking Museum and pick up groceries for the next couple days at Netto (one of 3 more budget grocery stores on the island).

    We booked the comfort package at the Blue Lagoon which involved a silica mud mask and a free drink (aka an ice cold Gull beer) while soaking in the milky blue geothermal pool. Just what we needed after a 7 hour flight from Seattle.

    We then hit the road on our way to our campground; checking out Krysuvik geothermal field and the Lava Tunnel (Raufarhólshellir) on the way. Due to the cool temperatures in the lava tunnel, ice stalagmites were visible in the cave - water from the surface ground, coming through the porous basalt and turning to ice when it hit the floor of the cave!

    Tonight we are staying at Reykjamörk Hveragerði Campsite where we plan to enjoy some tortellini pasta + local beer and get some rest for a longer day on the road tomorrow!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 3

    Day 2

    April 22, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    After a much needed rest we got on the road around 10am and headed to the trailhead of Reykjadalur (hot springs river). After 3km mainly uphill we found the area of the river that is warm/hot. They built wooden platforms with little change areas for visitors to soak in this section of the river!

    Once we felt refreshed we hiked out and headed to Thingvellir National Park - hiking to Öxaràrfoss and seeing where they filmed the “Bloody Gate” in Game of Thrones. Throughout the walk, signs explained that this area was established around 930 as a place of parliament and Icelanders continued convening here until the late 1700s. After the book of law was made in 1281, this area served as a place for corporal punishment.

    While up in the region known as the Golden Circle we made our way to the Geysir Geothermal area to see the “Great Geysir” and to Gullfoss. Gullfoss is one of Icelands most iconic waterfalls and for good reason! Water from a nearby glacier cascades down 32 meters in 2 stages and falls within a canyon.

    We left here a bit later than originally anticipated but sun doesn’t set here until after 9pm so we had enough time to sneak in (and behind) one last waterfall before pulling into our campground in Skógar.

    As we enjoy a late dinner we can see a waterfall right at our campground. The first thing to explore with a coffee in hand tomorrow morning!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 4

    Day 3

    April 23, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    What a wet day today was! Thank god for heat in the van to dry our wet clothes and also keep us warm for the snow we might get overnight!

    Started the day with great views of Skogafoss at the far end of our campsite. There is a viewing platform above the falls that we hiked up to see a different view point and followed along the path to see the additional waterfalls that are in the river above Skogafoss.

    Short trip down the road led us to the trail to Kvernufoss where we were able to follow a trail behind the waterfall for some cool (but wet) views. To warm up we enjoyed an Icelandic cinnamon roll and a hot coffee.

    Kevin was ‘thrilled’ to walk for 40 mins through a barren wasteland in the rain to look at scrap metal. However it was pretty cool to see this US navy aircraft that crashed in 1973.

    The rain continued as we explored the cliffs at Dyrohólaey lighthouse and viewpoint, allowing expansive views of the black sand beach along the way. In typical weekend fashion we found ourselves a brewery to dry out - Smidjan Brugghus in Vik. The blueberry mylkshake IPA was delicious.

    Before hitting the grocery store for breakfast and lunch supplies for the next couple of days, we decided to go to the pool in Vik to warm up in the sauna and hot tub! Then we hit the road for our next campground in Skaftafell, right next to the glacier. Along the way we passed through the Eldhraun lava fields that span 565 square kilometres and are covered in thick woolly moss. This lava field is a result of the Laki fissure and Grimsvotn volcano eruption in 1783.

    Tomorrow is a tour day! We are both hoping for some sun tomorrow but are laying out plenty of layers for the morning just incase!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 5

    Day 4

    April 24, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    The Iceland weather man didn’t lie to us today! After yesterdays forecast of “sun” ended up being rain and snow, we had low expectations. We could even see the tops of the mountains when we opened the blinds on the van which was a sight to see!

    Up and at it bright and early this morning for a glacier hike through the tour company Local Guide Vatnajökull. We drove up in a Jacked-up Super Ford to Falljökull - a finger of the larger Vatnojökull Glacier which covers 10% of the entire country and is 2000 meters at its highest peak. We were greeted with warm temps and sun for the 3.5 hours we hiked sections of the glacier; seeing plenty of crevasses (some reaching as deep at 30m) and some arctic fox prints! We learned a lot about how glaciers form and move, impacting the landscape.

    We ended up driving back to Skaftafell to hike up to Svartifoss, a waterfall 20m high cascading down black basalt columns. On our drive to our next campground, we stopped at 2 glacier lakes and diamond beach. The first glacier lake was Fjallsárlón which was the smaller of the 2. Next up was Jökulsárlón with its impressive icebergs. With the tide coming in, these big blocks of ice were drifting farther into the lagoon.

    When the tide is flowing in the opposite direction, these icebergs travel from the lagoon down the river and into the ocean. They then get pushed by the waves onto Diamond Beach. As the icebergs melt and wash up on shore they become extremely clear, like diamonds.

    We are now in Höfn which is the biggest town in southeast Iceland, with 2000 habitants. Which says a lot when we have been driving past farming villages that consist of a few houses for the last couple days.

    Tomorrow is one of our less planned days, driving along the coast and likely stopping at all the waterfalls we spot!    Read more

  • Iceland
    11
    Day 6

    Day 5

    April 25, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Coming up with meals to cook for dinner in a camper van with a 1 burner hot plate, a medium frying pan and a stock pot is proving to be a challenge! Tonight’s consisted of ramen noodles, edamame, a box of spinach and some dehydrated haddock locals seem to rave about. Kevin’s description of this fish was “it’s like chewing on a cardboard box that doesn’t get soft; it just gets wet.” I have to agree. But add to it: a salty cardboard box. Thankfully we packed some dehydrated meals from Mountain Meal Prep, a company based out of Whistler to mix in between the “creative” meals we come up with.

    This morning we left Höfn and headed to the Viking Village Prop set 15 minutes away. This was built by Universal Studios and then used by Netflix for The Witcher - Blood Origin. Nearby were the stone ruins of a Norwegian settlement (Horn), some of the first inhabitants of Iceland.

    In the same area was Stokksnes peninsula which was a vital location of the British army during World War Two. Vestrahorn is a breathtaking mountain located in this peninsula which reflects off the black sand beach in the lagoon in front of it making for stunning photos.

    We hopped back on highway 1 headed for Egilsstaðir, driving through fishing villages in the East Fjords along the way. We drove through some with just over 100 people and up to around 700! We also drove through 2 mountains with 1 tunnel being almost 7kms long! The weather changed drastically as we drove along with sun turning to snow while in the mountains. Tonight we are staying at Camp Egilsstaðir which is in the largest settlement in the Eastern Region with about 2500 residents & they have a pretty good brewery (Askur).

    All the campsites we have stayed at so far have been well equipped. Given we got to the campground at an earlier time than the last few days, we decided to use the laundry facilities at the campground to get us through the remainder of the trip!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 7

    Day 6

    April 26, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    We woke up to snow! Just a skiff but enough for Iceland to close some roads! Given most communities in the areas we have been in have had under 2000 people, I can imagine they don’t have man power for salting and sanding the roads in a timely fashion. Thanks to road.is, we were able to see road conditions and road cameras and plan our route for the day. Other than having to skip Dettifoss due to a road closure, we were able to stick to our plan.

    We drove out to Hengifoss (the Hanging Falls) to start our day, which is a 128m tall waterfall and the 2nd tallest waterfall in Iceland. It is unique as it has red clay stripes sandwiched between basalt which is 5-6 million years old from volcanic eruptions. While standing infront of Hengifoss, there was snow blowing towards us. Even though it was blue skies, the air was causing the mist from the waterfall to freeze and blow through the valley as snow.

    The hike to the waterfall was picturesque, following along Hengifossárgil gorge with view points of Litlanesfoss along the way - a waterfall with basalt columns, some straight and some curved, on either side. The basalt columns are among the tallest in the country.

    After our hike we drove to the Myvatn region which is known for its geothermal activity. We started at Hverir which is otherworldly - with boiling mud and hissing rock chimneys. We didn’t stay long as the sulfur clouds were overwhelmingly. We drove down the road to Grjótagjá, which was a local swimming hole (aka. cave) up until the early 80s when geothermal activity caused this area to be too hot for swimming. Definitely wished it was not the case as it would have been a secluded spot for a dip!

    In the same area we visited Dimmuborgir and the Pesudocraters (Skútustadagigar), which are 2 different rock formations formed when hot lava flows over a lake or marsh. It causes steam to escape upwards through vents or explode.

    On the way to our destination we stopped at Godafoss (waterfall of the priest/chieftain). It gets its name from legends of a local chieftain who threw his Norse God statues into the river after he converted to Christianity.

    Weather was pretty chilly today, hovering around -2 to -4 for most of it. We arrived in Akureyri at 6pm, just in time for happy hour and to watch half of the Liverpool game. Akureyri is the largest town outside of Southern Iceland. We took a break from dinners in the van and enjoyed a dinner out!

    We are staying the night at Camping Hamrar tonight and we continue further west tomorrow!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 8

    Day7

    April 27, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C

    Never have I been more excited to go to a public pool than today! Almost every community here seems to have a pool and hot tub with geothermal water.

    We strolled the shops in Akureyri this morning before hitting the road to drive the Tröllaskagi peninsula. Our first stop was Hauganes as I had heard they had hot tubs on the beach. And they sure did! For 1000ISK ($10 CAD) per person we had our choice of 3 geothermal hot tubs or a boat to soak in right on the beach! You can even do a cold plunge in the ocean - just like Kevin did! Blue lagoon didn’t stand a chance to this view.

    We continued our journey stopping in picturesque communities along the way. One of them being Siglufjördur - a small fishing town on the fjord with bright coloured homes surrounded by snow capped mountains.

    During the drive we travelled through 3 tunnels. Overall from our road trip we have driven more than 30km just in tunnels through the mountains. On this peninsula most tunnels were 1 lane only, meaning you had to find little pullouts to let cars past. Thankfully it hasn’t been busy on the roads but could only imagine how it would be in the summer! Especially in the 7km long single lane tunnels!

    Our last main stop today was Hofsós, a community of under 200 people but they must have a great town planner! We dropped by their community geothermal pool as it is perched on a cliff side overlooking the fjord offering spectacular views!

    Tonight we are camping outside Varmahlid at Lambeyri. Originally we pulled up to Steinsstadalaug camping as it is a winter camping site (not all are open in April) but it seemed pretty deserted. Then a man pulls up in a van, Fredrik Fredricksson (you can’t make this stuff up) who tells us about a better campground up the road! It definitely is the best campground we have been to thus far - grass, a big shared kitchen, washrooms and showers and a heated pool open 24/7! And it’s also not the most expensive one we have been to (they have ranged $35-50 per night). Home cooked vegetarian meal tonight - falafel, salad and pita with a sauce we debated buying for too long as we had no idea what the label said! 😅

    Today was a nice pace as we didn’t have a set agenda, just stopping along the way on the way to our destination! Tomorrow should be similar after a morning adventure we are looking forward to!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 9

    Day 8

    April 28, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We learned today some Icelanders build miniature houses for elves and leave wine and food for them on holidays! We had been seeing these tiny elaborate houses on country side properties as we drove along and thought they were quite hilarious! Our tour guide today let us know that many people in the North believe in elves and trolls. Elves are thought to be spiritual beings and therefore invisible to the human eye. They are also thought to have a temper and will cause harm to people or things that pose a danger to them. Our tour guide informed us that a construction project in the region was replanned due to machinery failures - thought to be due to hurting the home of elves! They are a superstitious bunch out here!

    This morning we took a 2 hour horseback tour with Iceland Horse Tours in Helluland. Our guide was a 19 year old from Germany working in Iceland for the Summer season. She was very knowledgeable about the country and region we were riding in. Kevin had a beautiful horse named “Gravy”. We learned about how Icelandic horses are raised in herds and only broken in when they are 4 years old. They spend their youth completely outside in the elements learning from the herd. Then they are trained to be tour horses or sold to other countries. Once they leave, Icelandic horses can never return, as they have evolved free from diseases and farmers are worried about contamination.

    Next stop was The Icelandic Seal Centre in Hvammstangi. On trend with folklore today, we learned that stories exist surrounding seals actually being humans! As the story goes, once a year seals can shed their seal skin and dance in the moonlight, returning later to their skins and the ocean.

    We finished the 4 hour drive at Grundarfjördur. The winter camping is pretty no frills but thankfully we are next to their community pool and hot tub so made for an easy soak! Tomorrow is our last day as we make our way down to the capital and where 60% of the population lives in this country!    Read more

  • Iceland
    Day 10

    Day 9

    April 29, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Our last full day was finishing Snæfellsnes peninsula and making our way to the capital! The wind was biting in the morning even though the sun was shining!

    First stop of the day was Kirkjufell - known as church mountain - a mountain off the coast of Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is named this due to its shape resembling a church; sharp at the top with long curved sides. Also it is the arrow shaped mountain from Game of Thrones.

    The drive along the peninsula was beautiful - with small communities, picturesque churches, cooled lava and craters, waterfalls and coastal and glacier views! We stopped in at Djupalonssandur which is a bay with tall lava formations, iron pieces of a British Trawler that wrecked in 1948 and small black smooth pebbles that make up the beach.

    We took in the views at Lóndrangar basalt cliffs which protrude towards the ocean. These pillars at 75m and 61m tall! Last stop on our trip around the peninsula was Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge - which is a narrow opening in Botnsfjall Mountain that you can climb inside - water levels were too high for us to get very far but it definitely was a sight to see!

    We finished our day in the capita Reykjavik! On the way we drove through yet another tunnel, this one was 6km long and under water!

    In the capital we stopped at the National Museum of Iceland where we learned more about the history of this country, then a quick beer and headed to Sky Lagoon.

    We did their 7 step ritual which involved a cold plunge (mine was more of a cold dip..), sauna, cold mist, a body scrub, steam, shower, and soak in their lagoon. The location was fantastic here with their lagoon designed as an infinity pool looking over the Reykjavik harbour and surrounded by volcanic rocks.    Read more

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