Portuguese Camino

The highlight of the Pilgrimage is the Desfile da Mordomia, where more than 500 women parade while wearing the traditional costume of Viana do Castelo, wearing several pieces of gold. During the parade, the women spread what the inhabitants of Viana do Castelo call “chieira”, which can be translated into vanity, despite meaning something much more specific, which only those who live it can explain.

Viana do Castelo's traditional costume consists of a scarf, a shirt, a vest, a skirt, an apron and an “algibeira” (pocket). The women also wear knee-high socks, crafted in cotton thread lace. Finally, the women wear the "chinelas" (slippers). The “chinelas” have a wooden sole and a natural or synthetic calf upper. The colour of the costume varies depending on the region of the woman who is wearing it.

The taste for wearing traditional dress passes from generation to generation, just like the “dressed costume” that may have been in the woman’s family for several years. Once, only women from Viana do Castelo participated in the Desfile da Mordomia, today people from all over the country, and even foreign women, want to enjoy the experience of participating in the pilgrimage and wear the traditional costume. The parade is a moment of union, with a lot of enthusiasm and, above all, a lot of joy."

Whoever wears the costume knows that they will have to follow some rules, such as: do not have painted nails or wear makeup. Before parading, some ensure that women are following all the rules that must be followed to parade through the most emblematic streets of the city, to the sound of "drums, clapping and many voices."

Because the parade is seen by thousands of people, it makes the "moment even more memorable for those who watch, but especially for those who participate." The young woman believes that the gold that women wear, whether in necklaces or earrings, turns out to be the most appealing to those who watch the show, thus being an “important” element. The amount of gold used is at the discretion of the woman wearing the traditional costume. Certain women like to wear a lot of gold, so they use "gold pieces from the whole family and even from neighbours."

The women from Viana do Castelo are proud to “continue a legacy left by the women” of their city.

The ladies’ skirts are made of thick fabric in stripes or checks in bright, vivid colours, in a full ‘bouffant’ style that are shown at their best in their energetic twirling dances. The skirt itself has a deep band at the hem, and the embroidery is very often traditional to a particular village. More often than not, red is the predominant colour, the ‘happy’ costume worn by the younger women, while a blue/green version is sometimes seen, worn in times of mourning or other sadness.

The first layer of the ladies’ costume is a cotton or linen chemise, with full sleeves, beautifully embroidered in traditional styles, and white ‘pantaloons’, with lace at the knee, long white socks and even embroidered slippers or dancing shoes. The bodice is separate, which is always sewn in two parts - the upper part is of the major colour of the outfit, red, blue, or green, the lower part black. The seam between the two is said to follow the line of the diaphragm! The front is cut low, again heavy with traditional embroidery, a full embroidered apron, and some wear scarves at the neck or on the head. The addition of many heavy gold necklaces can give the outfit a glorious finish. Some even have a separate heart-shaped pocket in which can be carried a handkerchief, but today is more likely to hold keys and a phone!Read more