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Dimitri South America
  • Dimitri Viatos
Nov 2017 – Jan 2018

Dimitri South America

A 74-day adventure by Dimitri Read more
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  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Merry Christmas (NZ Time)

    December 24, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Christmas eve in Puno. Spent much of it researching future accomodation. Rio over new years is very expensive and largely booked. We'll find something but should've probably booked earlier. Chalk it up to experience.

    I think we're all missing Christmas at home a little (though the others will deny it). Christmas lunch tomorrow will not be of the same fare as in Wellington. Looking forward to Brazil though.

    We're flying in to Lima at 11:30 pm. Might see Santa delivering a few final presents.

    Pics: (1) Puno; (2) Leftover All Whites poster: Rojas, Reid, Boxall (!) and Marinovic.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Lima

    December 26, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Our final leg in Peru ends in probably the least Peruvian city in Peru. Lima is both capital and biggest city, holding a third of the country's entire population (11 million). It means Peru suffers from over-centralization of wealth, human resources, media coverage etc (like London, for example) but I won't write about that now.

    We are staying in Miraflores. This leafy suburb is where the Peruvian elites raise their families. Predictably well-policed and well-stocked with Starbucks, McDonalds etc. We're not complaining though - we appreciate the familiarity international franchises bring to foreign places.

    We are in the Pariwana hostel, a party-place "where the fun never stops". Sometimes I wish it would so we could all get some sleep, but for the most part, everyone is pretty good company. I'm writing this at 2:30 am so perhaps not that bothered. As you all know, I sleep very little anyway.

    zzzzzz    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    2

    Adios Peru

    December 27, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    This'll probably be my last Peru post. We leave in 22 hours for Rio.

    I've enjoyed spending a lengthy 25 days in one place. It is a welcome change from the flight-every-week schedule we've been on through Ecuador and Colombia. Peru's other advantage is that it is well-developed (for South America) yet still pretty cheap. We were paying $7 NZ a night each in Puno.

    Visited the Circuito Magico Del Auga last night - a sort of fountain theme park. Very good. Pics attached.

    I write this overlooking the President John F Kennedy park. Built to honour him giving Peru a load of cash in his short Presidency. Now full of cats, fed and sheltered by the local council. Like Louis suggested in his post, I always get the impression the South Americans dislike the US and its meddling (which makes the Thomas Edison drive here even more puzzling). JFK is everyone's favourite Catholic though. Just ask Marilyn Monroe.

    There are "Welcome Francis" banners everywhere as the Pope is visiting soon. He's no doubt coming to bless the Christmas miracle that was President Kuczynski beating his corruption charge.

    Pics: (1) Fountain; (2) Louis in fountain; (3) Another fountain; (4) Miraflores; (5) More Miraflores.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    2

    Rio: Hot

    December 29, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We have landed in a sauna. The fan is on full and we are all shirtless.

    Will post more tomorrow, just wanted to update you all.

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    New Zealand 4 - Brazil 3

    December 30, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our hostel is in a favela 10 minutes walk from Copa Cobana beach. This place is well-known for its beach football - Neymar probably played here. Our hostel had a ball in the corner so we headed down.

    The waves are big here so, after a thorough buffeting, we had a kick around on one of the beach football pitches (see last post photo). As happens to us all over the world when a ball comes out, a few other guys soon come up and want a game. Brazilians vs kiwis. They thought they were in for an easy win vs a couple of jet-lagged gringos but we gave them a lesson in physicality and won 4-3. There's no ref to whine to in street football.

    Rest of day was spent on a celebratory parade/walk down the beach with some guy from Liverpool.

    Not much else happened actually. We played some Argentinians later. They won but were cheats and kept pushing us in the back. Was tempted to launch a few jibes regarding the Falklands (their government insists on calling them the malvinas or something) but decided not to.

    Later had a barbacue on hostel balcony. Had to go inside halfway through due to some possible gunfire we could hear (no joke).

    No pics sorry as we decided to leave our phones locked at the hostel.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    No news...

    December 30, 2017 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    ... is good news. Didn't do much today as got up late and spent all day trying to find an open laundromat. Aim to visit Christ statue or Sugarloaf mountain tomorrow.

    Probably won't post tomorrow as out for new years.

    Happy new year all.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Exploring Rio

    January 2, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    It's the second day of January. New years eve in Rio was unbelievable in every sense of the word. I have never seen so many fireworks. Copacabana beach itself had 10 of the Wellington-size barges alone. The pushing crowds trying to get on the beach after 11pm were fun to begin with but soon got grating. Louis and I lost Eyob at about 11:45 (he's fine, don't worry).

    Louis and Eyob spent all of new years day recovering so I decided to walk to Botafogo, the suburb directly above Cobacabana. I think this is what they call an 'up-market' district (ie no slums/favelas). Leafy paths, expensive restaurants and great views. I'd live there.

    To be honest, we haven't done much sightseeing, but I don't mind. The heat is oppressive and I like just walking around. I could write about some interesting things. The guy next door to us walks around with a glock in his waistband, but you'd all prefer to hear about the tourist sights, right?

    Pics: (1) Fireworks; (2) View from Botafogo of Sugarloaf Rock; (3) Leblon beach.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    22

    O Cristo Redentor

    January 4, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Every great city has an iconic central monument. New York has the Statue of Liberty, Paris has the Eiffel Tower, Wellington has nothing in particular. The Bucket Fountain maybe. Rio, of course, has its statue of Christ redeeming us.

    The statute sits atop a 700m hill, which Eyob and I wanted to climb. Louis decided that, between that and the NZ $20 entrance fee, he'd rather go to the gym. Ok then.

    The climb itself takes about 1.5 hours. The trail is known for its armed robberies (you are trekking through deserted jungle) so we had to sign a liability waiver at the gate. Eyob insisted I take point and walk in front.

    There was the usual gaggle of tourists at the top (they took buses up), all speaking different languages. More like we'd climbed the Tower of Babel than anything. Long queues for tickets but they were only NZ $12, a pleasant surprise. Quite often the information others give us here is somewhat awry.

    Statue was impressive, awe-inspiring etc. etc. but I really enjoyed the climb more. A good challenge in the heat. There is a hill you can climb for free right across ('Dos Imanos' - Two Brothers) which has views just as nice without the crowds.

    ALSO: As commented, we (I, that is) had some stuff stolen on NYE. I was left looking after our stuff as the others went for a midnight swim. The thief's accomplice comes up and taps me on the shoulder asking for a 'fuego' (cigarette light). 'No tengo' I respond (I don't have one). She persists, forcing me to turn around and repeat more forcefully. She gives up after a few goes and disappears into the crowds. I look down and $80 NZ worth of our stuff (mostly cash) is gone. The only consolation to my stupidity is that no phones were lost.

    Pics: (1) The man himself; (2) We were warned; (3) The view of Rio as we climbed; (4) Atop.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    1

    The Last Leg

    January 6, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We have finalised the end of our trip.

    - Leave Rio 10th Jan for Buenos Aires
    - Leave BA 15th Jan for Bariloche. At this point, Eyob will split from Louis and I and fly home (he starts work earlier). The two of us will spend the last 13 days in Patagonia (southern South America).
    - Take bus across border to Chile's Puerto Montt.
    - Fly down next day to Punta Arenas.
    - Journey up to Fitz Roy Mountain in Argentina.
    - Back to Punta Arenas and onto Santiago to fly home. Will arrive in Wellington 8:30 29th Jan (NZ time).

    Pics: (1) Our route; (2) Morning visitor; (3) A poster; (4) An old car for Sophie.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Killing Time

    January 7, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We never actually intended to stay this long in Rio. It just so happened that flights on the 10th to BA (and only on the 10th) were 60% cheaper than any other day. The 'easy' sights having been exhausted, we will have to be more creative in our amusements. Or just hit the local bars again.

    Wandered up to the Forte Ducque today, an old howitzer installation near our hostel. Big guns and nice views.

    Louis and I are looking to travel for a day-trip to some palace north of here. Can't remember the name and he's not here to tell me. It's an hour-long bus ride (which could well turn into 2-3 hours) but looks worth it. They have a big crown there, used formerly by the royal family.

    If I keep writing, it'll really just be filler fluff so I'll sign off. Hopefully more to write on tomorrow (a local gang war or something).

    Pics: (1) Louis looking at something more interesting; (2) Monkeys fighting over a banana; (3) Eyob in an art gallery.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Favela

    January 8, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    By Louis

    Last week I walked down to the cafe to get a caffeinated drink. It was 7am on New Years Days; I hadn’t slept. This was when I met Paolo again.

    Paolo calls himself ‘O Rato’. We were first introduced at a favela funk rave that morning. He grew up in Babilônia. Thirteen years ago he moved to Miami. At the time he was 25.

    Paolo offered to help me order. The cafe did not have any Red Bull left. We left instead with Brazilian beers. My offer to sit and watch the sunset received a counter: “You must see the favela Louis”.

    Paolo introduced me to Tomajeit and Havteem. These boys are lookouts for the local gang. Dimitri made prior mention that the Glock they carry is worth more than their yearly wage.

    Tomajeit was reluctant to look at me. His pistol never left his lap. Havteem stared deep into my eyes. He gripped my hand like some sort of ladder to prosperity.

    Paolo pulled me out of earshot. “You have to see both sides of the favela.” We walked away. We walked to Babilônia.

    “Have you ever fired a gun before?”
    “Only a .22 rifle.” I replied.

    The lookouts at the first checkpoint raised their eyes. “Paolo. You’re not meant to bring Americans.

    Weed, cocaine, what do you want?” We were close to the stash.

    Paolo reassured him. “He’s my friend. He doesn’t have a camera.”

    Pedro smiled and looked away from his giant M16.

    And there it was, around the corner and up a small flight of stairs. The heart of darkness. A seething mass of local women, dancing. Some I had seen at the party earlier. Many men with M16s stood guard.

    “Let him hold the gun Leandro.”

    My trigger discipline was immaculate, if I may say so. Paolo took four photos. Leandro told me to put my left hand on the barrel. It didn’t get scolded, despite the heat of the day. He said something into his Bluetooth headset. He extended the stock into the pit of my shoulder.

    A can was produced and I lined up the sights. The dancers didn’t even stop when I fired the gun. My shoulder hurt a little but it was otherwise unremarkable.

    Gabriel is the lookout outside our hostel. On NYE Paolo also introduced me to him.

    “Can you get me a hamburger?” he asked me on Thursday. When I returned it was clear he wasn’t just preoccupied: he wanted me to pay for the damn thing. The next day I fetched some water for him. He also wanted my final slices of bread. Yesterday another resident called Mass replaced me as waterboy. “Gabriel,

    my food is on Copacabana” I explained to him today.

    Paolo hasn’t been seen for a week. We think he went back to his work in Miami. One day I will get those photos. He knew many members of both local gangs. It surprised me. This was because I thought he had been working in Miami for 13 years. Maybe he knew them from work.

    Happy holidays to Janet, Joseph, Jen, Karen and everyone in Wanaka.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Last Day in Rio

    January 9, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It's Dimitri again. Haven't got much to say. Went to the beach, played football and now going to sleep. Copacabana is nice but the heat is not. Life is also quite slow here, too slow for me. Like a Greek island - nice to visit, would never live there.

    I've refrained from writing much on the favela gangs to avoid unnecessarily worrying certain readers (we all know who they are). Louis gave you a snapshot. I'll just say that this definitely the diciest place I've seen. We're mostly left alone but it's impossible to avoid interaction and not all of it's been positive (mostly just these last 2 days). Can elaborate more at home.

    We check out 5 am tomorrow so early start. No pics sorry.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Out of the frying pan..

    January 11, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    BA is even hotter than Rio. I don't know how - it's further south - but it is. Fan is on permanently and we are all down to boxer shorts.

    It is midday, we are going to sleep, will go out tonight maybe.Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Buenos Aires

    January 12, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Literally translates to the city of "good airs". Probably the cleanest city and most developed city we've been to. The people dress quite upmarket and there are no stray dogs roaming the place. Very wide roads (up to 14 lanes) reminiscent of New York etc.

    Spent yesterday walking around. There was a protest on outside govt house (some union movement striking). Every second park here is a memorial to the Falklands (Malvinas, sorry). Also found an old frigate you can walk around for about $1 NZD. Pics all attached.

    Other than that, not much to say. Just another big city really.

    Pics: (1) A tank at the Ministry of Defence; (2) The strike; (3) A gun aimed right at Oracle's headquarters; (4) Torpedo; (5) A statute; (6) 14 lane road - still able to jay-walk it.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    La Boca

    January 14, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Boca is a southern suburb of Buenos Aires. Working class and the home of the famous Boca Juniors FC. With Louis and Eyob in bed til 2pm, it was another solo trip for me.

    The football season is on summer break but Boca's stadium and attached museum are still open for tours. Tour conducted in Spanish - interesting. Also curious is that former club president Macri is now the Argentinian president - 'panem et circences' works in any political period.

    Met two dutch guys who support Heereveen FC (the club Marco Rojas plays for). Talked about both him and Ryan Thomas (another All White in Holland).

    Have found a free poker live stream and have been watching that for the past 2 days - maybe travel to Vegas next.

    Pics: (1) Stadium; (2) Maradona statue (Boca's favourite son); (3) Messi and Che Guavara - interesting partnership; (4) Stadium; (5) Signed Maradona shirt; (6) Terrance stands, no seats - a proper football stadium.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Bariloche

    January 16, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Louis and I have begun our final leg tour of Patigonia.

    Tearful goodbye to Eyob this morning in BA. We're taking bets on whether he actually makes it home alone or whether he gets lost.

    Arrived here 4pm. Louis wanted to go for a bike ride so we hired two bikes for NZ $40. Rode roughly 30km up a hill for a summit photo and a collection of sores. Now I remember my contempt for cycling; seats so uncomfortable, the Devil couldn't have made them better.

    Nice scenery, reminds me of Lake Taupo. Louis thinks it's more like Queenstown. It is more arid than NZ, however.

    Got dinner on the cheap again (we're out of the cities and back to small towns). NZ $15 for a steak.

    Pics: (1) Summit view; (2) Ready to ride; (3) Lakeside.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Puerto Montt

    January 16, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Just finished our bus ride from Argentina. First time I think I've crossed a border by land.

    Have just enjoyed another quality lunch courtesy of McDonald's. Highest rated restaurant in town. We're only here for 4 hours before flying out, which is just as well as I think we've seen it all already.

    Rural Chile seems about as developed as other rural South American places (and we've seen a lot of them). Banks close at 2pm, roads could use some attention etc. Weird because I thought Pinochet reforms etc had pulled Chile further ahead. Difficult to judge from just 2-3 towns however.

    Nothing more to say really, just wanted to say hi.

    Pic: (1) The local sights.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Punta Arenas

    January 17, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Southern town, very cold. Probably should buy/rent a parka jacket.

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    1

    Torres Del Paine

    January 19, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Torres Del Paine is a national park on the border between Chile and Argentina. This sanctuary attracts thousands of trekkers a year and is supposedly quite famous, though I'd never heard of it. The only Torres I know used to play up front for Liverpool.

    We first took a bus up to the nearby Puerto Natales the night before. Yet another town which, if not for a nearby attraction, probably wouldn't exist. There is not much going on here except to get up and get to the park as soon as possible.

    The park is large and the landscape windswept. Few trees grow and the ones that do are bent over like hunchbacks. Pumas supposedly roam the hills and we were given safety advice on how to deal with one - something about making yourself big and loud noises. No close encounters on our trip however.

    Nice scenery - I think travel bloggers often term it 'dramatic'.

    Pics: (1) Scenery; (2) An exclusive lodge inside the park itself - 'muy caro'; (3) Windswept; (4) Waterfall - spot the rainbow; (5) The town - bleak; (6) Louis wrestling with the wind over his poncho.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    On the Road

    January 20, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We have hired a car. A white Geely sedan (never heard of them either) which Louis has christened 'lolly' (!). Runs fine, though she tends to pull right at random moments. Driving on the right also takes some getting used to but no mishaps so far.

    Have driven back into Argentina to visit the El Calaphate glacier. Have covered about 250km today through the Patagonia desert. Roads are paved but in complete disrepair. They also get noticeably worse the literal moment you cross the border into Argentina from Chile.

    At the border we were subjected to the least comprehensive security search in history. Guy had a quick glance in my bag and decided Louis' didn't look worth searching. Too busy dealing with the other non-existent travelers behind us perhaps.

    Currently parked outside the Mako Fuegos restaurant. They have great Wi-Fi and their open network stretches to the car.

    Pics: (1) The view for miles; (2) Lolly; (3) The featureless desert.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    El Chalten

    January 21, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Major tourist attractions can be a major rip-off. Case in point El Calafate glacier, where the Argentine government insists on charging NZ $40 for entry. Not to be fleeced, we've gone up to El Chantel instead where there is a free glacier we'll visit tomorrow.

    Instead walked to the bottom of Fitzroy Mountain. Don't know much about it, why it's named etc but the views were nice.

    Boca playing arch rivals River Plate tonight, currently losing 1-0. Might try and stream using more cafe WiFi.

    Also (somewhat inevitably) every accommodation here is either booked out or priced to the heavens. May be a night in the car..

    Pic: Fitzroy (big mountain in the middle).    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    A Glacial Pace

    January 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Glacier Grande (the free one) was a bit of a let down. Stubbornly inactive and you couldn't even get close. 3 hour trek there was pleasantly deserted though (we set out at 6:45 am). Only a woodpecker for company (see photo).

    We had planned to return the car to Puerto Natales today. This is a return trip of 600km however and a combination of driver fatigue (i.e. me) and potentially not even making the 8pm deadline has seen us extend the rental for one more day. We're instead spending the night in El Calafate again.

    Louis was now keen to see the nearby ... Glacier (the expensive one) so we swallowed the NZ $35 fee and drove over. Much grander than the so-called 'Grande' and you can watch up close as the glacier ice cracks loudly and fall. The glacial ice is still in the same position it was when first photographed in 1901. Conclusive evidence against Global Warning perhaps.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Quick Post

    January 23, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Just got back to Puerto Natales to drop off car. Drive back good. Going to bed now.

    Can't post photos at the moment. Internet here (and around the continent generally) is not good.

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