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Dimitri South America
  • Dimitri Viatos

Dimitri South America

A 74-day adventure by Dimitri Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 17, 2017
    Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    36°51'29" S 185°14'55" W

    November 18, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Sitting at Auckland airport waiting to depart for Chile. Not too much to say, will post more when I land. Traveling with two friends from college, Louis and Eyob.

    A rough itinerary:

    Ecuador (in particular the Galapagos Islands)
    Colombia (in particular Bogota)
    Peru (inc. climbing Machu Pichu)
    Brazil
    Argentina.
    Home again!
    I'll be updating this blog when I can. Feel free to post comments.

    Dimitri    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Santiago Layover

    November 17, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The one certainty with travel is that every airport looks identical and demands extortionate prices on everything. NZ $3.50 for a small bottle of water!

    Flew over Santiago. Very dry and mountanous. Looks like Greece minus the olives.

    Met Carlos on the plane. From Argentina and works at the Spanish Embassey in Wellington. A big Boca fan (Argentina's biggest football club). Proudly reminded him the nix beat them 2-1 in a friendly 5 years ago. He shot back asking how our world cup qualification was going. Touche.

    Very tired now - have not slept for 20 straight hours. Flying out 11pm local.

    Photos: Waiting to leave + Louis eating a sausage to go with the 11 (!) complementary ham and cheese rolls consumed on flight.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Guayaquil

    November 18, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    In Ecuador's largest city for two days before flying to the Galapagos Islands. Touched down at 3am but had to wait at airport until 8am before could check in - 5 hours of boredom.

    Took a taxi to hotel. Driver locked the doors the moment we left the airport compound (very reassuring) and proceeded to speed manically through the morning traffic, utilizing all four 'lanes' on offer. You know you've got a problem when the driver is using his horn more than his indicators. Did only charge the three of us $6 US in fairness.

    Spent the day wandering the waterfront (pics attached). Good food is as rare as good drivers here - mostly deep-fried or sweets, with few vegetables on offer. Questionable hygiene standards as well - food does sometimes come out colder than it should, despite an insistence it be served 'caliente' (hot).

    The one business booming here seems to be private security . A key indicator a chasm exists between the 'haves' and the 'have nots' is when the haves begin to essentially raise private armies to protect their property. Every store here has erected barbed wire and employs a security guard, sporting a Kevlar vest and twirling his half-metre baton. Nothing like a bit of muscle to assure you that everything's well under control...

    Pics: 1) The Malecon district waterfront (where all the haves live)
    2) Southern Guayaquil, yet to be gentrified (the nots reside in those shanties beyond the white (or is it ivory?) tower).    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    2

    At the Football

    November 20, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    South Americans are mad about football. Their support for their teams is legendary. The problem with legends is that they can become exaggerated with time, as people try and continuously amaze. So today we wandered down to the Estadio George Capwell to investigate. Our findings:

    Transport:
    - Taxi to and from the game (no seat belts). We were specifically warned not to walk outside of the stadium.

    Buying tickets:
    - All tickets for the day had been sold, but mostly to scalpers. We ended up buying three on the street for $15 ea, even though they had a printed face-value of $10. We bought the more expensive tickets to avoid being with the 'brava bravas' (ultras). These guys are not the Yellow Fever.

    Security:
    - Tight. Lots of cops, riot police, mounted police, a helicopter etc.
    - We all got a pat-down before entering. They confiscated our water bottles - not sure why as they don't make great projectiles. Some guy near us got ejected for throwing coins at an opposition substitute though, so they've found something that works.

    Atmosphere:
    - Passionate - ref had to be the bravest man in the ground. Every call against home team Emelec accompanied by howls and whistles.
    - We were in the family zone so reasonably calm. The brava brava opposite could be heard chanting the entire game.
    - No away fans - they might have been banned from attending.

    Play:
    - Highly individualistic. Pretty much every player tries to beat their man.
    - Every player has great touch but too many misplaced passes. Unsurprising as passing is probably neglected at training each week.

    Overall:
    - Awesome, raw experience as it's still lacking that gentrification which has taken over every Western sporting event.
    - The legendary passion is true, but stories of wanton violence (at least in the stadium itself) seem exaggerated. The key ingredients are there though; those cops were not for show.

    Pics: (1) Eyob and I at the waterfront; (2) The game! (3) An inflatable tunnel extending onto the pitch for the players to walk through    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Galapagos

    November 21, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Tired and dealing with awful internet so only a brief post.

    Flew to Galapagos island chain, took speed boat to largest island Isla Isabela. Driven at lunatic speed by the captain. Eyob threw up, Louis took pictures.

    Galapagos is volcanic and much of it is desolate wasteland. Thus mostly inhabited by reptiles (volcanic lizards, iguanas, tortises etc). They are old and don't move much.

    Found a run-down football pitch, bought a ball and had a kick around. Some local kids (8-9 y/o) came over and challenged us. Most were very good technically and had a great touch - I was impressed. We introduced them to New Zealand football by knocking them off the ball.

    Won't attach pics as that will probably bring down the island's internet.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Galapagos - Puerto Ayora

    November 23, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our fourth day on the islands. There are many day activities to choose from here which the rest of our tour group usually go on. We three have mostly stuck to the free ones (which are just as good) or invented our own.

    Took our football to the local Stadium Municipal (pic) a long with a German called Fabian to shoot some goals there. Climbed Sierra Negra (a volcano) in the rain. Also biked to the 'Wall of Tears', where Ecuadorian convicts in the 50's had piled stones as punishment.

    The locals have been welcoming but, being cynical, it does all feel a little forced. They see thousands of rich Americans every year and our group is really just one more herd to be milked of their cash. Everything is far more expensive than the mainland, and that can't just be down to extra transportation costs.

    The islands packed with animals - birds, tortoises and lizards everywhere. You see far more of these supposedly endangered species than you would in NZ. I've never seen a wild kiwi in NZ before but almost stepped on a Galapagos tortoise yesterday.

    Pics: (1) a tortoise - indescribably slow and would never, ever outrun a hare (2) the 'stadium' - could use some work (3) a bird (4) Louis chose the one boat seat without adequate cover.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Galapagos - Puerto Ayora Again

    November 24, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It's 9 am and we have just finished our complementary breakfast in our fancy hotel on the Puerto Ayora waterfront. Our tour itinerary listed us as only being entitled to two breakfasts on the first two days. Our tour companions also seem to have paid significantly more than us. Putting it all together, it seems that we did book the cheaper tour but, due to a lack of numbers, they had to bundle both cheap and deluxe together. We're not complaining.

    We visited a park yesterday and saw more tortoises. Guides spent four hours marching us around before releasing us for lunch. Walked to a night food market in the evening. Similar to the ones in Wellington, just with more questionable hygiene. Too many stray animals, exposed food etc.

    Now desperately researching options for watching the nix at 12:30 am (Sat NZ). Internet is bad so may have to live stream radio sports audio instead. Worst case, I'll ring baba and he can stick the phone by the TV speakers.

    Louis has now eaten too much free breakfast and feels sick. He'll feel even worse on our speed boat ride at midday. I'm not sitting next to him.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Galapagos - San Cristobal Island

    November 25, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The final island of our tour. Nix lost last night in a shameful performance so not in the mood to write much.

    It's morning and we're sitting in the hotel lounge researching beaches. All look the same to me.

    Boat ride over the roughest yet. Eyob handled it well. Unfortunate, as I had bet a dollar with Louis on him spewing again. Turns out Louis slipped him a few sea sickness pills beforehand.

    Arrived and saw a seal give birth on the main beach. Messy.

    Beach search finished - we're off.

    Pics: (1) crevasse where you can dive; (2) Eyob insisted this go up.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Back on the Mainland

    November 27, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Galapagos is more than a nature sanctuary. It’s a tourist sanctuary.

    We’ve arrived in Quito, Ecuador’s capital, and it’s even dodgier than Guayaquil. Every street door is secured with several thick padlocks. The local emergency hospital has more security guards than patients. We’re staying in the ‘tourist area’, easily identifiable by its heavy police presence (three outside my window). Makes you wonder what’s going on across the rest of the city.

    The city itself is old - many period buildings from when the Spanish first colonized. Streets are paved with cobblestones. Great for the horse and cart, not so great for cars.

    Our hostel is owned by a guy called Rhina. He’s from Napier. His hostel is full of hippie students and one might describe the atmosphere as ‘cultist’. Between the veganism and new-age yoga, it’s all too liberal for my taste – half expected someone to start reciting the communist manifesto during the communal dinner.

    They offer a hostel dinner for US $5, definitely safest having surveyed the local options. Inevitably, however, meat was off the menu and the portions were tiny. The wifi is also switched off at 7pm so that people are forced to talk. The irony of insisting on conformity is lost on these non-conformists.

    Incredibly, we were all ordered to bed at 11pm. In a student hostel! One of the minders/gulag guards mumbled something about meditative quiet time. The wifi doesn’t even stretch to our rooms.

    Eyob and Louis are hiding in their rooms. The resident yoga instructor is on a recruitment prowl. I’m off to get a decent meal.

    Pics: (1) A gun emplacement on Galapagos; (2) The local Basilica; (3) Louis and Eyob walking up to it.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
    1

    A little culture

    November 27, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    As requested, something a little more cultural for this post. The following is from our tour guide today, augmented with my own thoughts.

    Today is Ecuador’s Independence Day, commemorating liberation from the Spanish Crown. Ecuador has two favourite sons, Simone Bolivar and Antonio Jose de Sucre. They were aristocrats of Spanish descent who, like the United States’ founding fathers, were dissatisfied with subjugation to a distant monarch. They raised an army together and drove the Spanish off the continent entirely. Bolivar had dreams for a united South America (‘Grande Colombia’) but this never eventuated. South America is rich in resources and, organized, Grande Colombia could have rivaled the US. Instead, the continent’s fragmentation, conflict and abuses of power means it has been left seriously underdeveloped. Who wants to invest in a country where everything you work for can be nationalized in a heartbeat?

    Ecuador’s recent political history is similarly chaotic. It’s been invaded three times by Peru since 1941 over some random valley. It had 10 different presidents in the 1990s, then one for 10 years, who was finally forced out this year when he tried to enact laws allowing him to rule indefinitely. The current President, Lenin Moreno, is crippled by a gunshot so was installed by his party as a pitiable public face amidst discontent. He’s gone off script, apparently, and has impeached the former President for corruption. Probably just cleaning house to consolidate his own position though. Madness.

    There’s a doco on Youtube, Civilization: The West and the Rest, which touches on South America’s untapped potential. You need stability, security and accountability to create great countries, something in short supply here.

    Also, do let me know what you want to hear more of. Otherwise you’ll just get me ranting about crappy hostels or South American mismanagement.

    Pics: (1) The Independence Day parade. President Moreno is on the balcony; (2) Pinatas of politicians - one of them is Trump apparently.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    All for one, and one for all?

    November 28, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The Three Musketeers is a story of loyalty and brotherhood in the most trying circumstances. Their unity is embodied in that famous line above. I like to think our triumvirate shares a similar bond, strengthened by time and shared experience. Sometimes, however, the musketeer bond finds itself tested:

    (Note: Names censored after threats of defamation from my fellow musketeers)

    1) The hostel room window: Undoubtedly the biggest point of contention. Two musketeers feel hot and want it open, one doesn't and tries to close it secretly. Words have been exchanged over this, but no duels yet.

    2) Hygiene: I'm not particular about this, but one musketeer has had a mere 3 showers in 10 days. He's beginning to smell..

    3) Directions: Despite travelling Quito a mere 3 days, each musketeer is adamant he has developed an ingrained map of the city. Disputes arise at cross-roads, where each musketeer will insist on a different direction, split and beginning walking down it, before we all rush back, realising we need each other. Google Maps is no help as we've all run out of data.

    Humanity's success comes from our ability to pool talents and work together. We're plainly more successful than other animals, who just kill and steal from each other most of the time. The fate of this group will depend on our ability to suppress selfish primal instincts and compromise. The signs are good though - no one's punched another yet.

    Pics: (1) One of the disputes breaking out into open violence; (2) The top of some church - Virgin Mary statue framed by the two clocks, each showing a different time (neither correct); (3) Another Ecuadorian street for Sophie - this is what most look like.

    Final note: We are actually having a great time together. Mostly. If only they'd close that damn window.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Colombia

    November 30, 2017 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Just touched down in our third country, in airport having breakfast. We are sticking to the gringo menu (bangers and mash) as both my companions have fallen sick already due to dodgy food. It's their own fault really - I wouldn't touch the street food here with a 10-foot barge pole.

    Climbed Mt Pichincha yesterday, going as high as 4,600 m. You really feel the lack of oxygen in your lungs at this height. Louis and Eyob climbed the rock wall to the top, I decided the view was just as nice from 20 m below.

    Colombian customs seems a bit slack. There is no body scan (you just walk through) and, while my luggage was x-rayed, the lady watching the monitor looked half asleep. Then again, there was another security guard at the exit holding a pump-action shotgun. Makes you wonder what the cartels are running around with.

    Pics: (1) Me half-way up the mt - Quito in the background; (2) Having breakfast - It's $4 a bowl and Louis made sure he got full value.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Football, gold and other stuff

    December 2, 2017 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Got up and watched the World Cup draw. Much less interesting when everyone you support has been knocked out.

    Walked to Bogota's Museo del Oro today (literally the Museum of Gold). Houses ancient indigenous gold artifacts. Surprised there was enough to form an exhibition seeing as the conquistadors ran off with most of it.

    Then visited the pompously-named 'Palace of Justice' - Colombia's supreme court. The court was stormed by FARC rebels in 1985, very bloody. Colombia was actually at war with FARC (its own people!) until a few months ago. Lots of soldiers about the court complex but we were allowed in and wandered around.

    Finally stopped by to admire some church, can't remember the name. Marble arches and lavish decorations (not sure what Jesus would say). Rather than worshipers donating and then lighting candles, they have this board with LED light bulb candles. Drop a coin in and another lights up (pic attached). Had to give it a go - that's my 'candle' top right.

    Pics: (1) Old indigenous gold death mask (top) along with a traditional indigenous gold party hat (bottom); (2) The church candles; (3) Watching the football with Louis.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Luis: My Story

    December 3, 2017 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    "As I write this the airport lights have turned off. We are not sure when the light will return. Time passes differently in South America.

    Dimitri’s short sentences are indicative of the frenetic pace often encountered here. Of course there is another side to this. A great malaise frequently settles across the land. I like to think the dichotomy formed by these two sides might be apparent to Dimitri too.

    In situations like this I like to examine detail. Images often capture much more than the single moment of time they picture.

    ...

    We missed our flight to Lima. We hustled through the airport to no avail.

    The switch has flicked once again as I finish writing.

    A man is fixing our problems. He was last seen descending into the depths of the Internal Ministry."    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    "This is just such a saga"

    December 4, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Quite a bit has happened in the last 48 hours. Our next stage from Colombia (with Avianca) to our connecting flight in Ecuador to Peru (with Latam) was supposed to take 8 hours but has instead consumed two days. We arrived at Bogota airport (Colombia) to find that our first leg had been delayed 3 hours. At least half the flights were behind schedule and a TV crew were there doing a live cross. I was initially quite grateful for the delay as it meant I could watch the nix play at the airport. The way everything panned out however, I just wish we’d just gone as planned.

    Things deteriorated quickly. The nix somehow managed to lose despite leading two-nil at half-time – they’re an absolute disgrace and completely unprofessional. Our flight was then delayed further (“operational difficulties”), sparking an angry mob at the boarding counter. Our first flight finally took off but, despite a sprint in Ecuador to our next flight, we missed it by 2 minutes. Got to watch it take off at least.

    We approached some officials who nodded at our explanations, then left us sitting on a bench for 4 hours. An Avianca official then came up and said that, as we’d booked each leg separately (one with them, one with Latam), they would not compensate us with second-leg tickets to replace the flight we’d missed. His explanation is absurd and we let him know it. Inevitably though, we were always going to have to fork out the $500 USD each for new tickets. They put us up at a nice hotel (why didn’t they just subsidize our flights?) but the hotel bus was then delayed for another 30 min. More operational difficulties perhaps. “This is just such a saga” said Louis.

    Have finally made it to Peru, linking up with our next tour. We’re climbing Machu Pichu next week to meet the Incas. Posts may become more sporadic due to lack of internet.

    ALSO: Louis is writing his own post here on our travels so far (but only after I agreed to suspend my role as editor).    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Americas, by Luis.

    December 6, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    "Some sort of Stockholm syndrome blankets the world. Former Soviets no longer hide their desire for American goods. Indians play cricket against the English every year. On the ground here it’s more obvious than ever that Latinos love Spanish football. Today I’d like to write about the South American envy of North America.

    Throughout the last century the CIA undermined many countries in South America. Many South Americans perceive American tourists as stupid and arrogant. They also flock to buy goods from the United States despite this.

    Years of antagonism appears to have built a great respect for the quality of American goods. Ecuador uses the Dollar and everyone drives Chevrolet. All tourists are assumed to be American, most annoyingly. It is the repression of South American spirit that is more concerning to me however.

    Some locals have joined the Americans after a century of being beaten by them. Their commercialised and selfish approach to work is in stark contrast to that displayed to say, Pacific Islanders.

    The invasion of Hamburguestas and loss of what little cuisine existed prior serve as a great symbol of this change. Processed food is the only hygienic option around here. It would be a shame if the great food from Asia or Southern Europe was also replaced.

    It is not just Australia’s name that is similar to America. I hope New Zealand does not follow this course. The lack of cuisine has already been exposed."    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Louis: "A world unchanged"

    December 7, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    "The Peruvian mainland has captured my heart. Lima was a great disappointment. It reminded me of Auckland. The contrast since leaving the cities has been amazing.

    The local dress in the highlands is charming. Beautiful bowler hats, knitted sweaters and ponytails are everything I expected and more. It is also surreal to walk down the street without being harassed.

    People whipped each other at the restaurant today. The whipping exorcises demons."    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Under the Weather

    December 9, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We're five days into our "Peru on a shoestring" tour, which is proceeding at breakneck pace. Every day involves a 5-10 hour bus ride (sometimes overnight) to our next destination. "Peru in a minute" might be more accurate.

    Have been unwell with a cold for the last few days, no doubt exacerbated by this absurd level of travel. Did stay up until 4am to watch the nix last night however, so partly my fault.

    My roommate Ohm is bugging me for us to go so I'll leave it there. Will give a fuller update when can.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Preparing to Climb Machu Pichu

    December 10, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Doing stuff for the first time is always difficult - you never know what to bring, which way is quickest, what to buy and what you can save on. Some people love the experimentation but I just hate the inevitable waste.

    Spent much of yesterday deciding what gear hire was worthwhile. Have settled on a pair of hiking boots ($20 NZ), walking poles ($15 NZ), mattress ($20 NZ), sleeping bag ($20 NZ) and plastic poncho ($5 NZ). Tents are being provided by the tour.

    The 4 day trek itself dips to as low as 2000m and rises as high as 4000m. Such fluctuations can lead to altitude sickness but I think we'll be fine.

    We will be accompanied by several porters. They carry up to 6kgs of our belongings, though much of that is taken up by the sleeping bag, mattress etc. Feels slightly imperialistic but they seem pretty happy with it.    Read more

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    A Cultural Exchange - Ccaccaccollo

    December 12, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I really should've read our tour itinerary. Instead of beginning the Inca Trail straight away, we actually were booked in to visit a rural village to spend a night home-staying.

    I was rooming with Louis this time. Our host mother Patricia greeted us at the parking-lot with flowers. She then carried all our bags up to her home.

    The village itself mostly consisted of mud-brick houses. Facilities were basic, but better than I expected, with both running water and electricity. There was also a football pitch where we kicked a ball around with Michael (Patricia's 9 y/o son).

    We were taken to do some local farming, where you bang a hoe into the ground near plants. I have no idea how this helps them grow and, frankly, we did a terrible job. The 'experience' was called off after 20 minutes as it became clear we were ruining the harvest. If they really do still farm in the traditional manner (there could well have been a tractor hiding from tourist sight), that is impressive but somewhat misguided - modern machines are far less labour intensive and do a better job.

    The meals served by our host family were hearty, though both Louis and I have our reservations as to hygiene. Another spin of food-poison roulette wheel.

    Next morning, we bought a woolen hat each from Patricia (she is a weaver, like most of the village women). The transaction was completed in her home, meaning she could conceal it from the rest of the village. They are supposed to share all weaving profit apparently, and this is enforced by them all supposedly selling only at their central market. The attitudes and mannerisms all felt very much like a Greek village (very 'choriatiko').

    An interesting and enjoyable experience. For a night.

    NOTE: We are setting off on the trail tomorrow - no internet so no posts for 4 days.

    Pics: (1) Patricia, despite our objections, carrying our bags up herself; (2) All dressed up; (3) Farming lessons - not the career for us I think; (4) The hills were very steep; (5) The annual running of the sheep; (6) A sample of local cuisine (cute guinea pigs) - would you eat it Sophie?    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Machu Picchu

    December 15, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Have just returned to our Cusco hotel following our 4 day hike to Machu Picchu.

    Trek was long but not overly difficult. We had constant good weather (I only wore my raincoat for 2 hours total).

    Each day began with a 5 am start, around 8 hours walking (lunch in between) then camping and bed by 8 (!). Views often obscured by fog, but I've attached the good pictures.

    Food was pretty good considering the circumstances, but the portions could've been bigger. If I'm saying that, then there's something wrong.

    Machu Picchu was impressive, a nice end to the trail. Was actually not that significant a site during the Inca times, just happened to be preserved from the conquistadors. Full of tourists coming in by train though.

    Peru is also in the middle of a political crisis - President was charged with corruption yesterday (by some of his own party, which he founded). Expected to step down very soon. Peruvian sole has dropped a cent vs the NZD so this trip just got cheaper.

    Nix lost this morning (useless) and I'm off back to sleep.

    Pics: (1) Inca trail; (2) Original Inca roads; (3) Our camp site (20 porters!); (4) Machu Picchu; (5) Llamas eating in Machu Picchu - you can buy one for 400 NZD.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Back from the dead

    December 20, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    The past few days have been somewhat chaotic - you do come to appreciate the way tours take the organizational work out of travel.

    Our Peru tour wrapped up two (or was it three?) days ago with a night out. Quite a few Aussies in the group who naturally insisted on drinking everyone else under the table. Good company though, unlike the Canadians (boring and pretentious).

    Our Spanish is improving, particularity with numbers and store interactions. Counting to 100 is very formulaic after 20 (like Greek). Actually, this whole Espanyol thing is a bit ridiculous - many words are just so similar to either English or Greek (eg "traditional" v "tradicional", "caltses" v "calcetines").

    Went to some museums today, not too much to report. Interestingly, many Spanish cathedrals
    etc are built over old Inca temples - the conquistadors knocked them down and used the same materials.

    No photos because they're taking too long to upload. People who complain about NZ's internet have no idea..    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler
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    Last Cusco Day

    December 20, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We've finally gotten around to organising a bus out of here. We leave 8am tomorrow for Puno, on the Lake Titicaca shores.

    Visited more sights today but forgot their names. Must've not been memorable.

    We feel as though we've seen pretty much most of Cusco. It's a city of only 400,000. Similarly to Wellington, it can be 'done' in under a week.

    Pics: (1) condor, jaguar and snake shaved into grass - the three most important Inca animals; (2) anti-govt rally - heavy police presence and it's all kicking off - awesome.    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Puno Time

    December 22, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    According to Lonely Planet, Puno is Peru's hottest new tourist attraction. Presumably they based this on its access to the lake, as the town isn't much to write home about.

    Narrow streets and water-filled pot holes dominate. Playing dodgems with the local drivers is fun until someone gets run over. Cusco was far nicer to stay in (at least the cordened touristy part we were in was).

    It's cold here as well. I am wearing 3 layers. We are looking to see how much it costs to hire a boat and sail it on the harbour. A live baby Alpaca here is NZ 20 so hopefully sailing your own boat for a day is not much more.

    Pic: the local super mercado - note the close proximity of meat and wild dogs (probably where our dinner last night came from).    Read more

  • Dimitri ViatosDimitri South AmericaTraveler

    Bon Voyage

    December 23, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This confounded continent insists on repeatedly making me sick. While Louis and Eyob are spending the day sailing Lake Tittikaka, I've spent most of it in bed.

    On the bright side, a ton of football has been on TV today. Started with the nix (lost), then El Clasico, then Juve v Roma and now, as I write, Man United are playing.

    We did 'sail' the lake ourselves yesterday. You can hire a paddle boat for 7 soles (though we bargained it down to 5). Our good ship had a fearsome dragon prow but Captain Eyob steadfastly refused our requests to ram other paddlers.

    Pics: (1) HMS The Green Dragon; (2) 'I am the captain now'; (3) 2 games at once.    Read more

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