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Camino Frances 2025
  • Kimmie Nguyen
  • Kimmie Nguyen

Camino Frances 2025

A 35-day adventure by Kimmie Read more
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  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Me smiling before the owner made me cry :(
    Stop to put on rain coverSansol in the distance1Vegetable soup1Mushroom risotto

    Day 6 - PM - Los Arcos to Torres del Rio

    November 5, 2025 in Spain

    Due to an incident at the Los Arcos albergue when I arrived, I decided to leave and walk to the next town with an available room which was Torres del Rio. The distance was 7 km and I left around 4 pm and arrived before 6 pm. I have showered and will attend dinner at 7 pm. Will update regarding the incident later.Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    1
    Bye albergueOlive treesViana in the distanceLogrono in the distance about 30 min away

    Day 7 - AM - Torres del Rio to Logrono

    November 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    I left around 8 am and took a break at the half way point with Rumi from Korea in Viana around 11 am. I should arrive in Logrono just after 1 pm. It is a very windy day!

    I felt much better today and it was the right decision yesterday to proceed to Torres del Rio. This also shortened my day which would have been almost 28 km to 21 km.

    I have booked a 3 bedroom apartment and will split the cost with 2 other pilgrims. It was supposed to be 3 others but Den has a foot injury and will book separately so he can stay at a hotel for 2 days and recover. I'm really looking forward to a private room for the first time since arriving in Spain. Checkout isn't until noon so I can sleep in too

    Since I was the first to arrive in Logrono - everyone else left from Los Arcos - I had lunch and a cafe con leche while waiting for the apartment to become available at 2:30 pm. The ramen I had in Puente la Reina had been subpar so I was glad to find a more authentic looking ramen place.

    Today was a nice walk despite the wind. My legs are stronger and there was no pain yesterday and today. The only slight annoyance were the tiny rocks that somehow make their way into my shoes.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler

    Day 7 - PM - Logrono

    November 6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We left the apartment to get Dan a new phone and sim card (since many apps were blocked in China) and Suzanne a new ball cap to protect her fair skin from the sun.

    Then we got groceries for breakfast and lunch tomorrow before going for pinchos. Most bars open around 7:30 pm so we arranged to meet with our camino friends after 7 pm. It was Jung's last day on the camino after walking for 2.5 months. We weren't sure if we'd see some other pilgrims as well because their injuries meant they'd be staying behind to recover. They promised to try and catch up within the next few days 🤞🤞🤞Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Sandwich break before the rain makes it soggy

    Day 8 - AM - Logrono to Najera

    November 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Rainy forecast! I slept in and intended to leave at 9am but I had laundry issues so ended up leaving closer to 10 am. Thankfully Dan is taking the bus today so she will take my wet laundry with her lol. It will be a longer day with 28 km to cover and a lighter backpack will help me make it to Najera before dark.

    I have become the official lunch maker for our group. I've been making sandwiches similar to the one Manuel gave me in Roncesvalles with jamon and havarti cheese for other pilgrims and now they just want these sandwiches for lunch everyday. I also add mayonnaise, tomatoes, hot salami, and lettuce for crunch!

    As I rushed out of Logrono because of my late start, I came across a pilgrim feeding ducks by a pond. I passed quickly by with only a brief moment to enjoy the wildlife. As I kept walking, I questioned why I didn't stop and feed the ducks as well. I had leftover bread from making sandwiches earlier so could've easily enticed them over. I really regretted that decision but only moments later another opportunity presented itself.

    An old man was feeding squirrels in the park and when I stopped to record, he called me over and let me feed them too! I was thrilled to say the least :D

    I took a break in Navarette because there is a long stretch into Najero. I was just stopping for my standard croissant and cafe con leche when I saw a sign for eggs and bacon. The croissant was wrapped to go.

    Description of the section

    From the capital of La Rioja, the route leads gently to the idyllic park of La Grajera, stretching around an endorheic lake nestled between red hills. After this first hill, the Camino descends alongside rows of small crosses to Navarrete, once the stage of multiple battles between Castile and Navarre. An hour and a half later we reach Ventosa and climb San Antón, the second peak of the day, after which pilgrims are once again plunged into solitude. The last section stretches for 8 kilometres in an undulating succession of clay and vineyards until Alesón, which according to legend was the site of the battle between the knight Roldán and the giant Ferragut. Finally, the river Yalde reaches the outskirts of Nájera and after crossing the river Najerilla, we reach the impressive historic area where the pilgrim albergues are located.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Made everyone's lunchGetting the food photo

    Day 8 - PM - Najera

    November 7, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was a long day for everyone. I arrived at 5 pm and heard some fellow pilgrims arrived after 7pm!

    We cooked dinner and will call it an early night. Arvid and Suzanne are vegetarians so they made a pesto salad with nuts and cheese. I made a simple salad and there was vegan chocolate pudding and a treat from this region. Tomorrow we will walk another 28 km to Granon to cook a communal meal and sleep in a church.

    Dan gave Suzanne a massage lol.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    4

    Day 10 - PM - Belorado

    November 9, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was a short 15 km walk given our long day yesterday. We will arrive in Burgos in 2 days and plan to get a rest day to enjoy the city and allow our friends behind us to catch up.

    One friend walked 52 km today to catch up - he arrived at 7 pm!

    For us it was a nice leisurely hike with some friendly animals along the way, fig picking, and a long break an hour outside of Belorado. It was so nice to just soak in the sunshine when it finally appeared, put our feet up, and slowly sip our cafe con leches. We didn't want to leave!

    We arrived at our albergue at 1 pm and had snacks on the terrace and compared sayings in different languages. Our "while the cat is away, the mice will play" sounded more like "the mice will dance on the table" in Dutch.

    I didn't have a great sleep the night before in Granon because it was cold and I didn't have a sleeping bag. I will pick one up in Burgos at Decathlon - it will definitely be needed as the weather gets cooler. I made up for the lack of sleep with a 2 hour nap this afternoon. To avoid the chilly evening, some of us opted to stay in the albergue for the pilgrim's dinner which was surprisingly filling and good. I've paid an extra 1 euro for blankets tonight so that I'll be nice and warm.

    Tomorrow is another long day (28 km to Ages) so I hope to leave the albergue around 7 am with my friends.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler

    Day 11 - AM - Belorado to Ages

    November 10, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Dan woke us up at 6am this morning so that we could walk while the moon and stars were still out and so we could see the sunrise. We packed up, had breakfast and left the albergue around 7am. We had to use our headlamps to light the way.

    Even though it was a longer distance at 28 km, it didn't feel like it. The major obstacles this morning were finding open cafes for snack and lunch. We had to walk for 2.5 hours before we found one. Friends who had walked further yesterday were surprised to come across us this morning.

    It was nice to see familiar faces at every cafe and we made sure to fill up on coffee and food given how few towns had open shops.

    We went down one road which seemed never-ending but were glad to find a bar at the end. We really dawdled there because it was warm, rustic, and the food was yummy with cheesecake and lasagna. The bar was only 45 minutes from the albergue. When we got to our destination in Ages, we debated going even further because everyone felt good. In the end we decided to stay bc we had made a reservation and the owner may have turned away others because of our reservation.

    After dinner, we playes some card games and drinking games which was really fun.

    Tomorrow is a shorter walk anyways with 20 km into Burgos so no rush in the morning. We have booked another apartment for 6-7 people and check in isn't until 3pm. We are looking forward to cooking together and staying two nights and days to explore the City.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler

    Day 14 - Burgos

    November 13, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    We stayed up late last night and wanted to visit the museum of human evolution so will take a bus to Castrojeriz today. As well, one of us is still struggling with a foot injury and another one is sick with a fever. The only bus leaves at 5:30 pm so we had a lot of time to kill. I also went to Correos to send some items to Santiago since I bought a sleeping bag and some warmer clothes at Decathlon and wanted to reduce the weight of my backpack with unnecessarily items like my headphones, fan, extra toiletries, and clothes.

    I woke up a bit early to say goodbye to Suzanne who is headed back to the Netherlands and then we reheated our leftover dinner for breakfast. We spent some time cleaning the apartment and checked out at 11 am. The Korean Canadians were jumping ahead to Sarria given their shorter timeline.

    We dropped off our backpacks at the cathedral lockers which only require 1 euro deposit and then walked to the post office. For 15 euros, they sent my items to the Correos in Santiago and can hold it for up to 30 days.

    Next we visited the bus station but they wouldn't sell us tickets until 5pm. We then went to the museum of human evolution which was just okay for me. I felt the exhibits could be more dynamic or interactive. I only spent an hour there exploring the 5 floors but other pilgrims had spent hours there engrossed in the exhibits.

    Since I was finished early, me and Den went to wait in the cafe next door to have coffee and wait for the others. It is down to 4 of us now after some left and others walked to Hornillos de Camino this morning. I took a short nap and then we went to grab our backpacks and visit the bus station. Our bus was small and our trip about 1 hour and 10 minutes to get to Castrojeriz about 40 km away. We wanted to stop in Hornillos del Camino 20 km away but we couldn't reserve a bed and pilgrims the night before had complained they had to walk an extra 10 km to get a bed in Hontanas.

    We had to spend 30 euros each for accommodations in Castrojeriz and tomorrow we will leave earlier to try and secure a bed in the municipale albergue in Fromista.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    111

    Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Fromista

    November 14, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    It rained most of the night but had ended before we left the albergue at 7:30 am today. Dan and I shared a bedroom with single beds and a private bathroom. We slept really well and I was awake before my 7 am alarm. We left before Den and Arved who had stayed in the room next to us and arrived at Fromista's municipale albergue around 2:15 pm.

    Today's journey was 26 km and started on a very light stomach. There was nothing open in town and we walked for over 2 hours before we found an open cafe. They made some fresh jamon sandwiches to order which I enjoyed with my usual cafe con leche.

    There were many new faces along the route. Dan would yell out hello to everyone and joined a full table at the cafe while I was getting my food. It takes me longer to warm up to people so I was happy to see all the seats were taken and I could take a table to myself beside them. I retrieved the mayonnaise, salt, and pepper from my backpack for the sandwich which made it even better. It is sad to think many of our friends will no longer be familiar faces we run across on the road or in the cafes.

    The walk was under windy conditions but not as cold as I expected. A light long sleeve shirt was all I needed and a sun hat once the sun broke through the clouds. The only other thing we had to navigate were the puddles left over from last night's rain.

    There was a steep climb near the beginning and a nice walk along the river leading into Fromista. Some pilgrim's even soaked there feet in the river during their break.

    When we got into town, I got some groceries at the supermercado before they closed at 2:30 for snacking tonight and breakfast tomorrow morning.

    I showered and rested a bit after checking in but couldn't nap because the room felt cold even with an extra thick blanket. Dan messaged to let me know the common room was really warm and she was right. My cold fingers and toes have been enjoying their wood burning fireplace. On my way down there I spotted Arved and he let me know Jo had also arrived. We expect Den will take much longer because he is walking very slowly. Nicholas is also here but some stayed in the town behind us like Tobias.

    Tonight we dined at a Korean run restaurant that opened at 6:30 pm which I was very excited because they had ribs. Ribs were massive and I had to have Dan and Jo help me finish them!    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    2
    131

    Day 16 - Fromista to Carrion losCondes

    November 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Today's stage is only 19 km so Dan wanted to push for a longer day once we arrived around noon. We were quite hungry since there were no open cafes again. There were vending machines for coffee, burgers, popcorn, pharmacy stuff, and orange juice, but I passed on them hoping to find an open cafe.

    We had to walk all the way to Carrion de los Condos for over 3 hours to get food. We got something light to eat while I charged my phone since the bar/restaurant wouldn't serve full meals until 1:30 pm. We were giving our feet a break as well before continuing on. As luck would have it, Jonty arrived at our restaurant and mentioned him and Jo had gotten a room at the monastery and the rooms contained only 3 single beds - no bunkbeds! They also had private rooms with private bathrooms for 25 euros so Dan changed her mind and we stayed in town.

    We got some groceries at the Dia supermarket and used the kitchen to cook some blood sausages, tomato and egg stir fry, and make sandwiches for tomorrow. Jo joined us and swapped some wine for food. I also made him some sandwiches since we had extra meat and cheese leftover.

    We called it an early night and had a good sleep in our private rooms and comfy beds. I was glad to not walk further since it had been a wet, windy, and cold day. I started feeling a little sick that evening and was extra glad I wasn't waking up anyone with my coughing that night. The plan had been to do a longer day tomorrow and wake up at 6 am. Instead I texted Dan and told her to go first since I'd need extra rest with feeling sick.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Breakfast / lunch

    Day 17 - Carrion delos Condes to Sagahun

    November 15, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Today we will attempt 2 stages in 1 day which is around 38 km. I hope to arrive in Leon on the 18th and we will need to cover close to 100 km in 3 days which means longer days. We have booked an apartment for 2 nights for a great price!After Leon, I may skip to Sarria so that I can walk Sarria to Finisterre.Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    13Pretending this tree is Karl1Demonstrating how we struggle walking again after a day of walking the camino lol

    Day 18 - Sagahun to Reliegos

    November 17, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Today we covered 30 km to Reliegos. The weather was nice and we left around 7:45 am and arrived at 3:45 pm so 8 hours with 2 long breaks in between. We didn't find any cafes along the way but there were two small grocery stores where we could get food. We were really happy to have fresh baguettes with ham, chorizo, and cheese even if we couldn't have our coffee.

    It was the 4 of us walking together. Everyone was kind of slow after yesterday's trying walk and the scenery was very boring with a path along the road. It seems the lead feet I developed on the last half hour of yesterday's walk remained this morning. It was a struggle for the first part of the day - though I did eventually embrace the slower pace and found I didn't mind slowing down so much.

    The only pretty things on this walk inlcuded the grass sparkling with dew drops and we watched some silvery spider web floating in the rafters of one rest stop.

    We stayed at the municipale albergue and for what seemed like a long day, we were among the earliest to arrive. We thought we might be the only people staying there because we saw next to no one on our walk but later many more people joined us. They started placing a
    plastic mats on the floors bc we ran out of beds on the main floor.

    The room had been cold when we arrived but the heat is on now thankfully since I'm feeling very chilly from a cold.

    There were no open restaurants in town so 5 of us went to the grocery store and bought some stuff to cook pasta, soup, and sauteed vegetables. I retired early to get some much needed rest after dinner. Tomorrow we head to Leon!    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    7Dinner at Ezequiel Calle Ancha
    6111

    Day 19 - Reliegos to Leon

    November 18, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Today will be 25 km to Leon - my favourite city on the Camino!!

    We left at 7:30 am and it was a bit of a chillier morning. I had an odd dream about Bodhi and woke up to a voice (his voice) saying clear as day, "Kimmie, don't leave Leon without me." He was sleeping across the room so it was a jarring experience. I told Dan about it and I insisted we wait for him at the next open cafe in town. Once he joined us, we shared the dream with him and he agreed to stick with us to Leon since he didn't take such things lightly. He recalled knowing someone who had a dream about their parents before they left for a trip to Mount Everest. He insisted his parents shouldn't go on the trip due to a strong sense of foreboding in his dream. The parents went anyways and died there. Bodhi felt they should've never ignored their son's vision.

    We walked at quite a quick pace today and got into Leon around 1:30 pm even with some longer breaks so we chilled on a patio with drinks and tapas waiting for our 3 pm check-in.

    For dinner, we went to a popular restaurant and ordered lamb and seafood and dessert. It was quite delicious.

    We saw some familiar pilgrim's at the table next to us on arrival and asked them to join us for a group picture after dinner which they happily obliged.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    1Thank you for the surprise flowers and chocolates Karl!
    $0.20 to weigh yourself at the pharmacy's machineWe saw Arved arrive as we went to get groceriesThe apartment building we're staying in3Cooking dak galbiKorean spicy chicken w cabbage, mushrooms, onions, rice cakes, sweet potatoes smothered in cheeseFarewell dinner for young Arved2Arved's last wish was to go for hot chocolate and churrosDan always wants us to pose like this. I offered to take the pic instead.

    Day 20 - Leon Rest Day

    November 19, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    I made everyone breakfast and we enjoyed that leisurely before my 10 am Thai massage session. My massage therapist was really thorough and really worked on the my stiff back and legs but my smart watch kept ringing during the massage even though my phone was on Do Not Disturb mode. I checked my phone after the massage and saw Whatsapp messages from a florist in Leon. He wanted to know where I was so he could deliver my flowers??!! I told him I'd come pick them up instead since I was in the area. Thank you Karl for ordering beautiful red roses and chocolates for me. It was such a lovely and thoughtful surprise!!

    Bodhi and Dunyao have left to continue their camino and some friends will arrive in town so we will do another potluck tonight. We went to the Oriental grocery store so I could pick up asian ingredients for dak galbi (Korean spicy chicken and vegetable stir fry) and tteokbokki with the leftover rice cakes. I had promised Jo I'd make him some Korean food in Leon. Dan made several dishes including braised tofu and veges, Chinese crepes/omelettes, and an apple cake dessert. She also bought more blood sausage and wants to eat it everyday.

    I also enjoyed some fresh churros and thick hot chocolate at D'Leon after brekkie to warm me up on a cold morning. Yum! Dan and Tobias joined me when they were done touring the cathedral.

    At dinner I asked about everyone's favourite meals on the camino. For Dan, it was the pulpo and lamb from the night before. She said she always regrets her restaurant orders after she sees what I order. She will copy me from now on lol. Tobias said it was the homecooked meals from Burgos and Leon tonight which Arved concurred with. Toby likes them because he gets to try new dishes. I also really enjoyed our potlucks - partly because of the good food but also because of the good company. Burgos remains my favourite before Suzanne, Sam, and Jason left us. Jo said without hesitation his favourite meal was my Burgos pasta but he also found my dak galbi tonight delicious! It was a great meal and in the nicest apartment we've rented yet.

    Tomorrow I will take a train to Santiago to hike the portion of the camino I haven't done yet and hopefully spend 2 days by the water.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    1What I packedSnacks for the 5 hour train rideMark treated me to churros and hot choc after a friendly chat4Leon train station1

    Day 21 - Leon to Santiago by Train

    November 20, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    We said our farewells to Arved before he left at 7:30 am. He is interrupting his camino to visit Madrid and will also visit a friend he met on the camino. He will return to Leon in over a week so we won't see him again. :(

    We will miss this young German who was so cultured for a 19 year old. He was also a devoted Catholic and showed great reverence at the cathedrals we visited. He wants to be a professor and with his intelligence, easy nature, and integrity, I have no doubts he will be. We will miss him as a person and as our Spanish interpreter!

    After he left, I had breakfast with Dan and Tobias before they left at 8 am and said our temporary goodbyes. While they hike the rest of the Camino Frances, I will start the Camino Finisterre and Camino Muxia which should take 4-5 days and starts in Santiago de Compostela and goes to Finisterre and Muxia on the coast of Spain. After I've completed it, I will reunite with my friends on November 26th to complete the last stage of the Camino Frances by November 29th and fly to Paris on November 30 for my return home. I am looking forward to some hiking in relative solitude for some much needed self-reflection.

    I have been browsing the shops since checking out of our apartment at 11am and will kill some time at a cafe before my 5pm train to Santiago. I also visited a park west of the city before heading to the train station nearby.

    Update:

    The train was delayed for an hour and after only an hour or so the train stopped and someone came by the carriage to give an update in Spanish. No one seems to speak English to translate but I finally found a younger Spanish girl who used her app to translate. It appears one of the tracks is damaged and we'll need to wait for them to repair it. This means my original late arrival time of 11 pm will be pushed back closer to 1 am. Ugh, it will be a challenge to walk tomorrow with so little sleep 😮‍💨    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    2

    Day 22 - Santiago to Negreira

    November 21, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    After a late night getting into bed after 1 am because of train delays, I am up, showered and leaving my albergue at 8:45 am to find breakfast before I start hiking. Today's hike will be 27 km and should take about 7 hours with breaks. I am excited to do a route I've never done before (I bussed it to Finisterre in 2023 while friends hiked it).

    I didn't have to walk too far to find a nice cafe for breakfast. I met two American sisters in their late 50s or early 60s from Florida and we chatted a bit while we ate our English breakfasts. They had finished a shorter camino over 4 or 5 days that I had never heard before and were nursing sore knees and complained about one of the days when it just poured rain. Asked if they regretted their camino and they said they never regret a camino and I feel the same. They let me use their turbo charger to charge my phone and insisted I take some snacks from them before I left (an orange, energy bar, and lemon pound cake) and they even provided a ziplock bag for it.

    They were going to take a tour by bus through Finisterre and Muxia and visit a waterfall which they had enjoyed the last time in Spain. They told me I'd be better off enjoying extra time in Finisterre by the water than hiking the extra day to Muxia which is just a small finishing village.

    English breakfast orderes here:
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/BM7avGZmBXFZWDTL8

    I had been walking for about two hours when I came across a restaurant where I ordered coffee. I was going to leave right after given my heavy breakfast but they were roasting chickens so I ended up waiting almost an hour to order their lunch menu with three courses. I chose soup, grilled chicken, and flan for dessert and they let me swap out the fries for an ensalada (salad). All this with a drink and bread for 12.5 euros which was really reasonable! I was soo full at the end. I still need to walk 4.5 hours so will be arriving close to 6pm at the albergue. I will need to book it now if I want to make it there before it gets too dark!

    Grilled chicken lunch ordered here:
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/WbmSKVcAGgWssGEFA    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Walking yesterday in the forest at duskWalking yesterday on the road after dark1Place mat showing some of the different camino routes - definitely not an exhaustive list!

    Day 23 - AM - Negreira to O Logoso

    November 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Yesterday's walk could've ended disastrously. The late start, a 1.5 hour lunch break, inclines that made it hard to speed up, meandering pace early in the day, and the decision to go 8 km past the recommended stopping point meant I arrived at my destination after 7 pm when it was dark. I had started the day with only a half charged phone and it was down to 3% when I arrived. I should've stopped before 6 pm when it was still somewhat light out. Instead I had to walk through forests in the dark which was freaking me out. I made the decision to get off the recommended path and followed the road instead. The shoulder was really narrow so it was quite dangerous. I walked on the left shoulder so I could see incoming cars and held my headlamp in my hands so I could wave it around to signal to incoming cars I was by the road. All the drivers noticed me and would slow down or drive closer to the right shoulder to give me a wider berth.

    I called Karl to keep me company while I walked for almost an hour in the dark. He kept me calm, reassured me, and helped me navigate by tracking my GPS location so I could conserve my phone battery by keeping the screen off. He was a lifesaver!

    I was so glad and relieved when I finally made it to my albergue and so was Karl who was probably stressing even more than me!! I got the Pilgrim's dinner after checking in which included a lentil soup, pasta, homemade cake, and red wine. I dined with 3 others - a Polish woman from US, Peter from Czech Republic, and Matthias from Poland. Me and the woman were lucky to have the entire second floor to ourselves and slept really well with thick blankets and a heater.

    Since I had gone an extra 8 km yesterday, I could afford to have a bit of a later start at 9am today after breakfast (eggs, bacon, bread, and coffee). I was glad I had breakfast at the hostel because the next cafe was 3 hours away at Bar Casa Victoriano where I had a chocolate croissant and orange juice.

    The forecast called for rain around noon but it has mostly been a light mist which can still soak you through in an hour. I arrived in Olveiroa around 3:30 pm which was my original destination but decided to go a little further to treat myself to a private room in O Logoso which also looked like it had a stellar restaurant in town. As I walked through Olveiroa though, I was seduced by the delicious smells coming from a restaurant/bar. The place was packed and the only seating available was at the bar. I decided to stop and have lunch there and ordered their pork tenderloin and tiramisu. Once I am done eating, I should still have enough daylight to make it to my hostel well before 6pm.

    I had lunch here:
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/yHaRwkqNamvrhbWH6

    I will stay overnight here:
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/N3gU1BF4FReTN4ha9

    Friends on the original Camino Frances I left told me they have been doing 30-40 km a day so they will reach Sarria by November 25th. I have booked my two buses back to Sarria to meet them there the same day. Then we can do the final 100 km together to reach the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler

    Day 23 - PM - Negreira to O Logoso

    November 22, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    I arrived at my accommodations at 5:30 pm. An older lady greeted me and even though she spoke no English, we were able to establish I'd stay for dinner. It seems I am the only pilgrim here and I would like to support her business so will stay instead of leaving for another restaurant as I had planned. I think I agreed to soup (sopa) instead of salad and fish instead of meat (carne) for 13 euros. She asked me what time I wanted to eat and I said around 7:30 pm so she will come knock on the door when dinner's ready in about half an hour.

    Today's walk wasn't too bad despite the rain. It was cold at times but I just threw on my jacket, neck warmer, gloves and shoved my hands into my pockets to stay warm.

    A nice hot shower after check in has warmed me up and I am snuggled in an extra thick blanket as I update this post.

    There were very few pilgrim sightings. I saw 4 of them walking in the opposite direction because they may have started the Camino Finisterre from Finisterre and are going backwards to Santiago where I started or they may be on a different camino route - they all converge in Santiago de Compostela.

    My room is nice with a double bed and private bathroom. I hope my hand washed clothes will dry overnight on the heaters!

    She came and knocked on my door at 7:40 pm and invited me down the dining room. It was a large room with a long dining table and only one place setting which confirmed I was her only overnight guest. A large China cabinet proudly displayed photos of her beloved grandchildren and tableware and glassware and you could find toys peeking from under tables and behind sofas.

    She asked me what I wanted to drink to start. I told her agua (water) but forgot the word for hot in Spanish so I made the motion of touching a hot stove and the sound of sizzling. She nodded comprehendingly and used her hands to show a big explosion. I thought maybe this was a volcanic eruption which is very hot and nodded enthusiastically.

    .... Then she brought me sparkling bottled water instead which I just accepted lol.

    Next, she brought me a large bowl of hot noodle soup and insisted I have seconds because poquito peregrinos (not many pilgrims). She was very attentive and checked on my eating progress every few minutes. I didn't want to insult her cooking by not eating enough so I ate much more than I needed to please her. I finished all the fish and half the potatos and was stuffed before dessert arrived. She gave me yogurt and ice cream for dessert options and I chose the latter.

    I stared across the table out her expansive windows as I waited and as the dark abyss of the night stared back, I suddently felt very grateful I had relented and agreed to stay for dinner. Otherwise I would've had to walk into that cold, dark night for 12 minutes each way to get a hot meal. Instead I was sitting here in a warm room and tended to by a very kind host. I was enjoying a delicious, home cooked meal and she said bon provecho (bon apetit) every time she brought out a new offering.

    After dessert, she inquired if I wanted coffee as well but I passed because I was soo full and just wanted to climb back into my warm bed. I used google translate and read to her:

    "Gracias por una deliciosa cena y su calida hospitalidad. Que tenga una buena noche."

    I am pretty sure I butchered the pronunciation but she was happy to hear these words and laughed out loud.

    Translation is: Thank you for a delicious dinner and your warm hospitality. Have a good night.

    I made sure to also tip her and she was doubly pleased for this.

    I told her buenos noches one last time before heading back to my room to relax before bed.    Read more

  • Kimmie NguyenCamino Frances 2025Traveler
    Almost to Fisterra!The path splits to the left for Finisterre and to the right for MuxiaWhy would they put this statue in the forest??!My apartment building

    Day 24 - AM - O Logoso to Fisterra

    November 23, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I am packing and will be leaving today at 8 am. Today's hike is approximately 28 km to Fisterra. It is another 3.3 km to Faro de Fisterra to get to the 0 km marker and lighthouse which I will do either after I check in at my penthouse apt or tomorrow. There is a restaurant on the top of that hill with great views of the sunset. I should take 6 hours without breaks amd arrive around 3 pm if I take 2 short breaks and make good time. The route profile shows a steep decline so that may be a bit ambitious but we shall see.

    It is still dark when leaving at 8 am as sunset is at 8:30 am today. It started to rain lightly and then pretty constantly as I left so I had to stop and put on all my rain gear. I didn't have to walk far to find a cafe for breakfast which was an omelette chorizo bocadillo and agua caliente. When I finished breakfast it looked like the rain had subsided so it had been a good time to take a meal break. I was the only pilgrim there but there were some locals hanging out at the bar. They looked to be hunters by their camo wear and were talking animatedly. Perhaps he was recounting a kill from that morning...

    As I finished breakfast and paid, the owner inquired if I was going to Finisterre. When I affirmed this, she warned me there would be nothing open for the next 15 km or 3 hours so I purchased an apple and chocolate croissant to go. She also asked me in Spanish where I had stayed last night and she was surprised I had been in Logoso. The albergue is closed she said in Spanish. I told her I stayed in a private room and she replied, "Ah, privado!" How many pilgrims were there?? Just me - uno! And she nodded. "Poquito peregrinos," I stated and she agreed and said a bunch of things in Spanish which I did not understand. I have noticed any small attempt to speak Spanish is appreciated and you get better treatment or a warmer reception. I wish I had studied some Spanish before doing the camino again but I only had 2 weeks to plan this time.

    It felt like both a short day and a long day. The first few hours passed quickly but the last half dragged on. I was eager to see the coast so pushed ahead even when I wanted to stop for food or take longer breaks. I finally took a nice break an hour from Finisterre to watch the waves lapping on the shore. The last 40 minutes of the walk left the highway behind and I walked on a path parallel with the coastline which was nice and serene.

    I arrived in Finisterre and stayed pretty dry until the last 20 minutes. It began to rain out of nowhere and I got almost soaking wet within 5 minutes before I could even get my rain gear on. I don't know if having it on at the time would've helped because the wind was whipping it everywhere anyways. I'm just glad I got drenched at the end of my walk and not at the beginning because it felt freezing after that.

    Someone met me at the apartment and offered to take my mochilla (backpack) for me but I politely declined. I regretted that when he told me there was no elevator (as usual) so I had to climb 4 flights of stairs with it lol

    I was happy to see there was a bathtub - I've only seen one other bathtub this entire camino. I quickly unpacked, charged my phone and ran the bathtub to get warm. After a long hot soak, I felt much better.

    I wanted to find a supermarket but they're all closed because it's Sunday! Thankfully I had some emergency food in my backpack - one chicken ramen I've been carrying for days, Karl's leftover surprise chocolates, and a protein bar the American sisters had given me 3 days ago. This will tide me over until the restaurants offer their dinner menu which is usually around 7:30 - 8:30 pm.

    I'm happy to stay here for two nights because there no rush to get up and check out tomorrow. The skylights in this penthouse open up which would've been ideal in the summer. I hope it is clear enough to do some stargazing tonight and if the rain ends, it could be nice to open them to listen to the ocean.    Read more

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