Reiser for tiden
  • Kimmie Nguyen

Camino Frances 2025

Et 35-dagers eventyr av Kimmie Les mer
  • Day 1 - PM - SJPDP to Roncesvalles

    31. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I was leaving the hostel about an hour later than I had told my Spanish friends the night before so fully expected them to be an hour ahead of me. But as I was heading towards the trail, m&m greeted me. Manuel was headed to the Pilgrim's office a few doors down from my hostel. I told them I would meet them at the church where I spent a few moments in silence. We then headed to Roncesvalles as a trio. There were not many other pilgrims along the way. We started around 9 am with one snack break for cafe con leche and our packed snacks. They made it to Roncesvalles ahead of me and I made it there just before 5 pm. It was a very difficult day with a sadistic cycle of uphill climbs followed by downhill climbs. What was supposed to be around a 25 km hike was actually 30 km according to my smart watch or +40,000 steps.

    I would not have made it without my hiking buddies who constantly checked in on me, helped me when my calves started spasming, lent me a walking stick to give my legs a break, topped up my water, entertained me with their company and singing, and frequently encouraged me. I probably slowed them down by 1-2 hours lol. They insisted on waiting for me to catch up many times but near the end, I just waved them away. I was taking breaks every few feet to catch my breath on the inclines while they kept a constant pace. I lost sight of them a few times but they would always appear again waiting for me - until it was clear I would be ok because the inclines ended. I could finally walk without breaks on the final 2 km stretch which was mostly flat.

    I'm so glad Day 1 is over. It is the hardest stage of the camino - see pics to get an idea of the elevation change.

    When I approached the albergue, they were again waiting for me and suggested we get dinner. It was our final meal together before they ended this camino and headed home.

    The food was delicious after a brutal day (angus burger for me with salad and fries) and sharing a cheesecake was the perfect choice for dessert.

    I am so happy to have met both of them on the first leg of my camino journey. Thank you for treating me to dinner Mercedes and offering me your walking sticks! Thank you for treating me to beer in SJPDP Manuel!

    Mercedes was like the sun - dazzling and warm while Manuel shone today as our North Star. His steadfastness, navigation, and leadership helped us reached our goals before nightfall. Both were very charming and complement each other so well. I will miss them! I hope they keep their promise to stay in touch and that they arrived home safely to Zaragoza 3 hours away ❤️

    Manuel better leave me a good review on the blablacar rideshare app too! 🧐
    Les mer

  • Day 1 - AM - SJPDP to Roncesvalles

    31. oktober, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Updated with additional photos.

    The first pilgrim left the room at 7:15 am and everyone else quickly followed. As I packed up to do the same, I could hear the town bells toll at 7:30 am. Breakfast will be set out in the dining room downstairs now and the Pilgrim's Office officially opens. The town comes to life just as the sun begins to rise here. My first day of the camino is on Halloween 🎃

    I will have breakfast and visit the church to light a candle before leaving town. One regret I had on my last camino was rushing rushing rushing. I hope to be more mindful today and everyday on the camino and beyond.

    At breakfast, table was full of French people. One lady said the route through Valcarlos was less difficult climbing obviously but more dangerous with cars. I may have to reconsider which route to take now 🤔

    Breakfast for 7 euros was plain yogurt, coffee/tea/orange juice, selection of fruit, cheese, hard boiled eggs, chocolate croissant, baguette, some pre wrapped muffins and madeleines. I couldn't finish everything so took my chocolate croissant, an apple, muffin, madeleine, and the untouched baguette with butter/jam with me for a snack. I'm sure I'll begrudge the extra weight as I trek up the mountain.
    Les mer

  • Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    30. oktober, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Arrived SJPDP around 4:30 pm. I had fallen asleep for part of the ride up. We parted ways to go to our separate accommodations but reunited later that night for beers.

    My hostel was right next to a bakery with the delicious scent of assorted pastries wafting up. I went to check it out and they offered a selection of sweet and savoury items. I planned to be back for dessert later that night.

    I went to the Pilgrim's Office to get my pilgrim's passport which will get stamped at all the accommodations I stay at and proves I completed the camino for a certificate at the end.

    For dinner, I had some steak, fries, and salad. My meal reminded me what I learned on my last camino: they rarely have ketchup or salad dressings here like ranch, italian, french, etc. Most salads are dressed simply with oil and vinegar; there is no expansive selection of condiments to choose from.

    While I had beers with M&M, they pretty much convinced me to take their route tomorrow morning through Valcarlos and not the harder route. My original route would've reach an elevation of 1400 m but their route goes to 1000 m. They had been told that route is also very scenic at this time of year and offered more amenities along the way. We hope to meet again tomorrow before they leave the camino in Roncesvalles.

    After dinner, I grabbed a shower and promptly passed out.
    Les mer

  • Roncesvalles

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We snaked up the mountain and had around an hour and a half until our ride would arrive. Manuel graciously offered to share their lunch with me: a baguette, jamon (not prosciutto!), havarti cheese, some savoury rolls filled with cheese, pate, or chorizo, bananas, and dark chocolate as dessert. It was delicious!

    We settled on some benches to enjoy lunch and Mercedes joined us after taking some photographs of the scenery. She joyfully exclaimed, "This is life! No responsibilities!" She stated such a picturesque setting was proof there was a God. Her enthusiasm was contagious and reminded me even simple moments like this should be celebrated. I really enjoyed their light-hearted banter and savoured the warm sunlight on my face.

    The last time I was in Roncesvalles, the restaurant and pub had been bustling. Today it seemed so quiet in comparison. I did not see many pilgrims and the people there were older and part of a tour group.

    Before leaving, they changed into their camino outfits, grabbed their backpacks and hiking poles, and we piled into the van to take us to St. Jean.
    Les mer

  • Enroute to Roncesvalles

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Manuel and Mercedes drove me to Roncesvalles. Friends of 7 years, they have been doing the camino in shorter stretches. They told me they would drop off their car in Roncesvalles and take a taxi to Saint Jean Pied de Port so I was able to split a ride with them for 15 euros. What a happy coincidence!

    I was also very fortunate that they could speak English and we were able to converse about various topics on the drive up :)
    Les mer

  • Pamplona Train Station

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Arrived with more than an hour until my scheduled rendezvous with my blablacar rideshare driver. Had a look around and then settled into their cafe for a radler - citrus flavoured light beer that is on the sweeter side. Will charge my electronics while I wait for my ride and peel off some layers with how warm it is getting. Cheers! 🍻Les mer

  • Central Park

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Pamplona is a very green city with 60,000 trees and 740 acres of green areas which accounts for 15% of the surface area of the city.

    I crossed through the Gardens of the Belle Epoque park to take in the scenery on my way to the train station.

    As I approached the edge of the park, the greenery gave way to a panoramic view of the cityscape. It was such a lovely walk with many seniors in the park enjoying the mild weather and sunshine.

    I kept walking and realized it was a good thing I had left early bc following Google Maps had led me the wrong way. I needed to be on the road below the gardens and wondered if I'd have to double back. Mercifully I found an elevator down which was so random!
    Les mer

  • Hostel to Train Station

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I went back to my room to relax for a few hours after breakfast.

    One of my roommates was a woman in her 50s. I noticed her walking sticks so asked "camino?". She answered affirmatively. "Saint Jean?". She replied in Spanish with a city in Spain I didn't recognize so I just smiled and nodded. My other roommate was an asian girl in her 20s or 30s who left quietly after breakfast.

    I was the last of the 3 of us to leave at 11:00 am check out and headed to the train station to kill time before my rideshare pick up.

    Alas, the massage therapist wasn't available today so I'll have to try and book ahead next time. I will be back in Pamplona in a few days since I am going backwards to get to the starting line.
    Les mer

  • Pamplona Breakfast

    30. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I slept deeply for a few hours but was up around 6am local time. I have a rideshare from Pamplona to Roncesvalles around 1:30 pm this afternoon which gives me a few hours in the city and a leisurely morning. I spent some time researching how to get from Roncesvalles to St. Jean Pied de Port in France, which is the starting point of the Camino but it looks like a taxi is the only option. Buses run daily in the high season but we're in the low season now. Hopefully I can find someone to split the expensive 45 min taxi with once I'm in Roncesvalles but I am also open to just starting from Roncesvalles if necessary.

    Breakfast was included in the hostel but options were limited. I headed down to their dining area at 6:30 am but found no eggs or fruit. There was some toast which I had with butter and peach jam. Cookies, cereal, tea, and orange juice (which tasted funny... pre-mixed??) were also set out. I would've been happy with fresh orange juice but at least they had a coffee machine. I made myself a cafe con leche mixed with their chocolate selection which was delicious and also heated up a slice of pizza for breakfast.

    "Café con leche is a coffee beverage common throughout Spain and Latin America consisting of strong coffee mixed with scalded milk in approximately equal amounts."

    I am hoping to get a massage appointment this morning before leaving Pamplona 🤞🤞🤞
    Les mer

  • Aloha Hostel

    29. oktober, Spania ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    I arrived in Pamplona just after 9pm and check in was 10 pm latest. There was a light drizzle but the hostel was very close to the bus station and next to a Domino's Pizza. I placed an order pointing at pictures of a deluxe pizza and hand gestures to tell them what size and that it was to go. While waiting for my pizza order, the hostel messaged me to remind me to be there by 10 pm and I let them know I'd arrive for 9:45 pm.

    There was a guy checking in before me so I scarfed a slice while she showed him his room and the common areas. I had booked a shared bed in a female only room with 3 beds. This was on the second floor (which was really the third floor) with key fobs and keys to access the room and a private locker. Both women were already there and relaxing in their beds when I arrived. Since it was late and their luggage didn't suggest they were also pilgrims on the camino, I didn't try to make any conversation. I grabbed a shower and headed down to the common area to finish eating and call home. There were a few Spanish speaking people hanging out there in their 20s who were quietly speaking or using electronics so I tried to keep my voice down. It seems some of the younger generation Spaniards speak English but it depends on their education and class background.

    I will take pics of the hostel in the morning once everyone is up.
    Les mer

  • Pamplona bus station

    29. oktober, Spania ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Our bus arrived at 9:20 pm in Pamplona. It was completely dark by then but we could hear the rain pounding the windshield and the slosh of water on the highway as the bus raced into the city 15 minutes from our destination. I was glad it was less than a 5 minute walk to my hostel but fortunately it wasn't pouring in the city.

    I had been at this bus station before so knew the area in general. I passed a 24 hour pharmacy I had gotten supplies at back in 2023 and a few restaurants that were still open on my way to the hostel.

    Most people I passed in the streets were dressed warmly with umbrellas in hand. I have a poncho for the rain but wondered if I had made a mistake not packing an umbrella for this trip...
    Les mer

  • Bus break

    29. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The bus stopped by a restaurant called Rausan around 6:30 pm at the mid way point and about three and a half hours into the trip. The bus driver made a loud and very forceful announcement in Spanish only and half the passengers debarked. I asked the people left if someone could translate and two young guys told me to stay on the bus since I'm headed to Pamplona. I asked, "no break??" They said yes, you can take a bathroom break but only have 15 minutes. I hastily used the bathroom but there was no time to get any of the authentic looking food there. The line ups made me think there was no way I would make it back to the bus on time. This bus driver also gave me the distinct impression he had no qualms leaving people stranded.

    Before we took off again, he walked down the aisles to make sure the rest of the passengers left on the bus were either headed to Pamplona or another scheduled destination.
    Les mer

  • Taxi to Barcelona central bus station

    29. oktober, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Walked from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 to grab a taxi to the central bus station about 20 min away for approximately 25 euros to catch my 3:10 pm bus. It will be a 6 hour bus ride to Pamplona where my hostel is. Grabbed a baguette to eat while I waited for the bus to arrive.

    Croissant, fritos, and apple juice for the bus ride.
    Les mer

  • Reisens start
    28. oktober 2025