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Scandinavia and the Baltics
  • Maree Crawford

Scandinavia and the Baltics

A 46-day adventure by Maree Read more
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  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    The bike group
    KaunusInside the castle courtyard. 3 storeys14th century island castleTrakaiInteresting exterior, VilniusWe visited an amber shopVery narrow strret in Old Town, Vilnius

    Vilnius to Kaunas, Lithuania

    August 21, 2017 in Lithuania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Today we woke up to drizzly rain. First day on the cycing tour was good. Did a walking tour of 700 year old Vilnius in the drizzly rain. Very pretty and old. We weren't looking forward to riding in it but we then got on a bus and drove a bit to see a castle at Trakai and have lunch. Best castle set up I've seen so far. All the rooms were open with great displays of normal castle life for the Duke.
    Then the rain stopped and sun came out as we got ready for the ride. Rode 27 k along a country road, then back on the bus to Kaunus. Very nice, a few rolling hills but easy enough. Just came back from a lovely Lithuanian meal in a great little restaurant. They seem to eat late here or maybe just our guide does ??
    There is 14 of us- all Australians!! A great bunch - lots of laughs.
    4 couples from a bike group in Melbourne, 2 from Sydney, 2 from Coffs Harbour, Nicole my room mate from Brisbane and me.
    Was great to be back on the bike 😊😊
    Good news- Nicole got her luggage just before we left Vilnius    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    At bird observatory they tag birds AND dragonfliesLunch at a "home place". Homegrown ingredientsBorder signLooking over to RussiaBridge at KaunusKaunus

    Kaunus to Klaipeda

    August 22, 2017 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today we dodged the rain again!! It rained even poured a lot of the day but fined up for our ride in the afternoon.
    First we got on the bus and visited another castle which was actually a manor and is now converted to a hotel and convention centre. Very opulently decorated. Would love to stay there!! It is also an artists studio and gallery.
    Driving west through the countryside was very pretty and changed to more fertile country and farm animals seen. They have wind turbines for energy here as it gets windy.
    We visited a park where "pagan" rituals are still performed and got a nice view of a river.
    Lunch was very special - near Silute , it was at a home of people who make lunches with their own homegrown ingredients. It was very traditional, complete with buffalo grass vodka in a shot glass (wow, what a punch!) and lemon balm tea.
    After lunch we cycled the 1km to the nearby bird observatory were they catch birds (and dragonflies ) to band them. They catch around 5000 birds of all species a day and band them all. We then got back on our bikes and cycled 25km further west through a main country road and then up a forestry road. This track was very pretty through the tall pines, was gravel and a few hard core corrugations to rattle the bones. We came across a lake where people camp and windsurf . We got to Vente where we bussed into Klaipeda in the rain!! We were so lucky!! 💧💧
    Late tea at a nearby restaurant, I had pork spare ribs in brandy sauce. Very nice, sweet as well as smoky.
    Klaipeda was founded in the 1200's and was part of Prussia until 1920 when Lithuania was formed.    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    1On top of the "dead" dune with the Baltic Lagoon behind me
    The ferry across with bikes on racksSome of the crewThe "dead" sand dune. Had covered villages many timesTongue for lunch at NidaA swim in the Baltic Sea

    Curonian Spit National Park- 58 km ride

    August 23, 2017 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Today we took a cruise down to Nida the bottom end of the Lithuanian part of the Curonian Spit. Below Nida it belongs to Russia. It took 2 hours and guess what... rained a bit!! There were many bikes all racked up very nicely, obviously ferrying over and riding is a very common thing to do. We firstly rode a little way on bike paths to Parnidis Dune, a national park and an ancient sundial/calendar statue. We then made our way to Nida town to have lunch, I had beef tongue and salad, very nice.. We then made our way up the Seaside Cycling Route crossing over from east to west and back again over some steep hills, going through forset which was nice and sheltered or along the coast where it was very windy, very much like our wind!. We visited a few sand dunes along the way. One was well pathed by a wooden walkway and quite a hike. It was the "dead" dunes where you could sea the Baltic Sea to the west and the Baltic Lagoon to the east. The lagoon lies between the spit and the mainland of Lithuania. We also visited another amber museum and tasted their version of the national amber liqueur- more tasty than the one in Vilnius.
    We stopped for a look and those of us brave enough to jump in the Baltic Sea. The water was about 18 degrees so warm to me! Others didn't want to. 3 men did and me. It was very refreshing to the muscles and get the sweat off to continue the ride actually. The beach was very much like the East coast of Flinders, under toes, long breaking waves, windy, but the sand was more orange. It was great. After that we continued on to a Cormorant spotting place, they are not welcome there as their acidic poo is killing the forest.
    We then continued on up for a few more hours and only just caught the ferry back home with seconds to spare - Minda our guide was very happy with us. This ferry ride was only 10 minutes
    We were home at 7.30 and eating by 8.30 at a restaurant in our "Old Mill Conference" accomodation. This was a set menu as it was a pre- organised and paid for dinner with the tour package. Chicken soup, chicken breast with a lovely creamy sauce, salad and mashed veg, plus a lovely dessert. Just what we needed after a big day riding, climbing sand dunes, swimming.    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Crossing the border to Latvia
    Old Mill accommodation, KlaipedaIn Klaipeda old townSymbol of KlaipedaBridge -symbol of PalangaBotanical gardens at Palace of Count Tyszkiewics in Palanga

    Across the border to Latvia

    August 24, 2017 in Latvia ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Today we have our ride first up which is actually good. We take a 35 km route of mostly bike paths through the forest and a bit of coast, 3 km on the main road. It's through the Seaside Regional Park which apparently is a former soviet military training area. This west side of Lithuania has a lot of reminders still of their Russian history. On the way to Palanga where we are headed, we stop in at a beach on the Baltic Sea with pines all around. The beach is sandy but has a lot of different coloured pebbles on it. I collected a few small ones to bring home.
    Palanga is the biggest Lithuanian seaside resort, the typical summer destination for the locals. While we are there we visit the Botanical Garden and amber gallery at the Palace of Count Tyskiewicz which was built in 1897. Lovely gardens with statues depicting Lithuanian fairy tales and the amber gallery is quite different than the others, it has a lot more history and specimens in it. The bottom floor has rooms with old century furniture in it, depicting palace halls of the aristocracy. Further on we stop at a seaside area that has a fountain, souvenir and food shops and a "bridge" that is the Symbol of Palanga, it's really a pier but goes out over the water quite a bit and has a good view. Lunch is at a nice cafe in Palanga, I had some local fish - halibut, the first for the trip and was delicious.
    The ride was over and we had a bus journey of 290 km stopping near Siauliai at the Hill of Crosses. That place is amazing - 2 mounds full to overflowing with crosses and christian figurines. I'll do a whole page on that with the explanation.
    Driving on through the Lithuanian countryside we cross over into Latvia, where the farms etc all look the same. Some of the houses look a little different already though.
    Apparently, Lithuania is a catholic country and Latvia is mainly Lutheran
    We arrive at Riga, the capital city of Latvia and find our hotel Konventa Seta. Yes, it used to be a convent. Very old and many rooms in separate "apartment" type buldings. Very nice rooms and comfy beds.
    Riga was established in 1201 and has been ruled by the Swedish, the Russians and the Lithunia/Polish commonwealth before all the Baltic countries gained their independence in 1920.    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    1

    Hill of Crosses

    August 24, 2017 in Lithuania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    "One of Lithuania's most awe-inspiring sights is the legendary Hill of Crosses. The sound of the thousands of crosses – which appear to grow on the hillock – tinkling in the breeze is wonderfully eerie. Planted here since at least the 19th century and probably much older, the crosses were bulldozed by the Soviets, but each night people crept past soldiers and barbed wire to plant more, risking their lives or freedom to express their national and spiritual fervour.
    Some of the crosses are devotional, others are memorials (many for people deported to Siberia) and some are finely carved folk-art masterpieces.
    The hill is 12km north of the central city of Šiauliai" Taken from "Lonely Planet"    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler

    Lithuanian farms

    August 24, 2017 in Lithuania ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    They grow mainly buckwheat, rye, corn and canola. It's harvesting time for rye apparently.
    At Hill of Crosses there were acres of carrots!
    We've see cows mainly, the odd sheep, a paddock of lamas, some goats and farmed deer.
    Some farms were made into collective farms but many of those buildings are now abandoned as economics have changed and one farmer now needs a few farms to be viable. You can see some larger scale operations now as well as the small traditional ones.    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    These girls were busking
    This statue of rhe Musicians of Bremen ad Bremen helped rebuild Riga3 bridges of Riga1Note the driver, been waiting a long time!!Yummy tea. The warm Balsam drink was terrificOur convent

    A day off exploring Riga.

    August 25, 2017 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This morning we woke to rain and drizzle again. We had a 2 hour tour of Old Riga with an elderly local guide who was very interesting with his facts. So many different architectural styles due to the age of the place (settled in the 1200's) and different "oppressors".
    After that we had free time to do our own exploring and the option of a 30 k ride at 2pm to another seaside resort Jurmala. We weren't actually going to get into the "mineral waters and mud with healing properties" so that plus the yucky weather made all of us decide to skip the ride and see more of Riga. There was so much to see - local crafts, souvenir shops, markets, churches, buildings. I didn't even make it into the "Art Nouveau" area.
    We all split up, I think everyone was ready for some alone time anyway.
    So I checked out the shops, found a 1 hour hot stone massage (cold stones followed the hot which was different and really nice), walked the cobblestones and did a 1 hour canal cruise.
    Then Nicole and I found a nice restaurant for an early tea for a change
    We feel ready to get back on the bikes tomorrow! 😊    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Built in 1225 and renovated nowThe red brick line is a memorial to the house that used to be here

    Riga has so many beautiful buildings

    August 26, 2017 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    These cities are around 700 years old, have been occupied by Sweden for a 100 years, Russia for 100 years as well as others.
    The guides here talk about centuries like we talk about years! !

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    2

    To Sigulda and back

    August 26, 2017 in Latvia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Morning bus trip to Sigulda to the east, the most popular resort in Latvia, in the Gauja River valley. We stopped at the Latvian bobsled track. You were able to walk alongside some of it.We then got on our bikes and cycled through the Gauja National Park visiting Latvia's "largest cave", Gurmana Cave. The whole cave has many carvings, ancient and new. We even had a busker there.
    Continuing on we stopped at Turaida Castle. This castle still had many out buildings and towers standing. Latvia's oldest church built in 1205 is also there.
    After lunch we headed back west mainly along the main road with a few hills and a bit windy to Saulkrasti to a private bicycle museum which was very interesting. One bike had rope for tyres and one was built entirely of wood made from an old building of significance. We popped down to the beach but was a bit cold and really rough to dip into. Had a paddle instead.
    Bussed back to Riga and we had tea as a group at The Garlic Pub. Garlic in the meal but they also did a garlic beer and garlic coffee. A few of us shared a garlic beer but didn't go for the coffee    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    1Windmill museum, Angla, Saameraa Island
    Into EstoniaSuperland Beach, Parnu, EstoniaAcross the causeway to Saameraa IslandThe not so nice Baltic Sea. Frothy green pea soupThe Baltic at our accommodation

    Into our third country, Estonia

    August 27, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    An earlier start as we have a big 340 k bus ride and half hour ferry trip to Muhu Island then drive across a causeway to Saameraa Island. Saameraa is the largest Estonian island.
    About an hour in we cross the Estonian border.Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Lunch spot
    Sorve LighthouseThe remnants of the military presenceLots of logging happens along the BalticsThese cairns are made by people who pass to say "I've been here"Flat tyre stop

    Saameraa Island, Estonia

    August 28, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    56 km ride today up the Sorve Peninsula. We got bussed from the Hotel to the Sorve lighthouse. This peninsula had considerable military significance, dominating the Irbe Strait and the Baltic Sea route to Riga.
    This was a very lovely ride- flat, sheltered and little traffic. We were able to stop and take photos. There were some lovely quaint houses and working farms. Coast with many white swans!! Just like we would see pelicans, I kept thinking they were 😊
    We went off the beaten track and cycled half the route on gravelly corrugated roads. Not everyone liked that! But we did like our lunch picnic spot.
    Along one of these tracks the front group saw a black snake cross the road. This is not a common occurrence, unlike Australia, so Minda, our guide, harassed it with a stick to get it back on the road for the rest of us to see. He gave up when it decided to strike back at him!! You could tell he's not used to dealing with poisonous snakes!!!! It was quite a big one for here.
    This had been the first time the Saameraa Island had been included in the itinerary, they used to do the smaller island of Hiiumaa.
    Our hotel had a spa centre so we had it booked from 5.30-7.30 pm. I'm not a fan of saunas but I spent an hour in and out of saunas and cold pools and muscles feel great!    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Our boys 💕
    Minda doing his jobEdvardasMinda

    Minda and Edvard

    August 28, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Our 2 local blokes. 💕
    Mindaugas, or Minda, was our English speaking Lithuanian guide. He spoke and understood English pretty well, just had a little trouble occasionally translating a word.
    He did an excellent job at guiding us and putting up with the Aussie humour 😊
    Edvardas was our Lithuanian bus driver, who didn't speak much English. He understood some but couldn't speak it well. He spoke fluent Lithuanian and Russian and passable German. He still enjoyed the Aussies, you can still communicate pretty well with sign language and body gestures. Minda often translated between us.
    Edvardas did a great job too driving and backing the long bike trailer, keeping us on the right road and packing everyone's luggage in the minivan.
    Baltic Bike Travel 👍👍👍    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Finland and the Baltics
    The story of Piret, strong woman of the seaThe story of the Red TerrorLunch on the ferry

    Last cycle day into Tallin, Estonia

    August 29, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This morning's ride is just a short 10 km ride along a smooth bike track from our accommodation to the main town of Kuressaare, still on Saameraa Island. I didn't even bother with bike gear today, even rode in my sandals. A lovely sunny day.
    We had 1 1/2 hours exploring Kuressaare. They have a great castle there too. There's a memorial to the 1941 "Red terror", a mass murder of peasants, 91 people slaughtered. That was pretty moving and disturbing.
    From there we visited Kaali crater where a meteorite hit around 4000 years ago.
    Then onto the ferry "Piret strong woman of the sea" to mainland Estonia on drive to Tallin.
    We had to say goodbye to our 2 local blokes. Minda and I had a little cry and a hug 😢
    We all got on really well and a bit sad to be finishing but also looking forward to our next adventure
    After a 2 hour walking tour of Old Town Nic and I had tea at a Medieval themed restaurant. Food and atmosphere was terrific    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Dark beer with herbs - niceNic had the game sausage and I had the game fillets- boar and elk

    Visit to the Middle Ages

    August 29, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    "Many frequent travellers would say that you haven't really been to Tallin unless you've visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of medievalism in the heart of Old Town doesn't just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses ( your very own peasant) in period costume and medieval background music".
    From "Tallin- in your pocket"
    Nicole and I had a lovely meal and drinks with great atmosphere. Loved the "throne room" (loo).    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler

    Hop on/hop off bus day

    August 31, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    This morning I headed to the Post Office in Old Town and posted off a box of riding gear and souvenirs back home. I was pleasantly surprised it didn't cost as much as I thought it might. It's less to carry around and cheaper than excess baggage.
    I then found the Hop on/ Hop off bus, the "blue line " route that goes out west Tallin. I hopped off at the Open air Museum which is a collection of farm houses and buildings from around Estonia over the centuries. It was very interesting and there were costumed people doing typical chores etc. I had lunch at the Inn there then 2 hours later hopped on the bus again until we got to the Seaplane Harbour museum. It had a submarine, coastal artillery, old and modern seaplane as well as an aquarium with Estonian fish with glass bowls that housed artifacts from a shipwreck. Very well done.
    I thought it was then time to head home, I'd had enough ofsightseeing so got on the blue line bus again. When it got to Viru Square where the circuit starts, it stopped for a while. I got off and had a look at the stalls then saw the bus was still there so got back on (a ticket lets you get on and off all day ), thinking I only had one more stop to get home. HOWEVER, there are 3 routes - the red line, the blue line and the green line, which I knew about. Unbeknowns to me, the drivers change "lines" each time they get back to base (Saves getting bored with the same hourly circuit I guess). So.... I was actually back on board the GREEN line, that goes out east. Another hour on the bus instead of 5 minutes!! Still, I was sitting down and got to see a bit more of Tallin. I really couldn't face any more hopping on and offs.
    I eventually got home (through a meandering route on foot through the Old Town...I'm such an impossible navigator!!), then had a relaxing time in the free for guests sauna and pool complex.
    I'm packed, paid up, taxi booked for a 4.15 AM start tomorrow to Copenhagen for the next adventure to Iceland    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Trolley bus. All the Baltics use them. Uses overhead electrics like a tram

    Bye bye Baltics. I'll be back

    August 31, 2017 in Estonia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Still so much to see. Didn't even scrape the surface. So old and beautiful. Such history of centuries of different occupations by so many other nations. Makes the young Aussie mind boggle.
    Churches, castles, cobblestonesRead more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    I love Denmark with all its wind turbines everywhere. What a view!
    Roskilde viking museumOne of the 5 recovered shipsA viking traditionRoskildeRosklideCopenhagen

    A day in Denmark

    September 1, 2017 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Very early morning flight to Copenhagen this morning. Got up at 3.30am for a 6.30 flight. Got into the hotel at 9.00 Denmark time (they're one hour behind)
    Caught up with Mum and Dad there then Mum and I caught a train out to Roskilde to see the viking museum. It as very good. This museum houses 5 viking ships that were found in the mud in the fjord out there. These ships were scuttled to block off a canal a few hundred years ago and were found in the 60's. They're now put back together as best as they can. Replicas have been built that they take people in on their lake. It's a very good museum, Mum liked it better than the Oslo one.
    Home for a rest but I couldn't sleep. I was invited to the farm tour's farewell dinner. We start a new tour to Iceland tomorrow. Some of the people continue on, some go home.
    By 9pm my head was falling into my dessert, I wad SO exhausted so off to bed.
    Nice to be back in Denmark for a day    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Old (cold) Blue LagoonThe green is wild lupinsEnd of the Rainbow - Iceland airportIcelandair

    Iceland

    September 2, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Flying to Iceland today at 2.30 Danish time so we just chill for the morning. We fly with Icelandair. Of all my flights I haven't used the same airline twice.
    It takes 3 hours to fly to the International Airport at Keflavik but due to time difference, when we land it is only 3.30 Icelandic time.
    We meet our Icelandic guide Frederick (roll the r's to say it in Icelandic ) and bus driver Ragnar or Raggie for short.

    They are using lupins to stop ash and soil from blowing around but they have also become a weed they don't know how to control. Seems they haven't heard about spraying? Some people are actually using the seeds for food now. In August the fields are blue with flowers.
    We drove to Reykjavik via some stony lava country, along the coast and stop into a boiling mud pool and steam vent area. Very sulphuric

    We have a lovely buffet dinner at a local restaurant and then fall into bed.    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler
    Stokkur blowing
    1Blue for boys, pink for girls

    Reykjavik to Vik, Iceland.

    September 3, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Very busy day today. We drive to Pingvellir National Park, the site of the ancient parliament founded in 930 AD and still active today. The park is also the site of where the earth is splitting apart due to the forces of the Great Atlantic Rift. We then drive onto Haukadalur, a geothermal area and where Storkkur erupts every 5-10 minutes. Continuing on through to one of Iceland's most famous waterfalls, Gullfoss or "the golden waterfall"
    Lunch at Efstidalur farm which is self sustaining and you can see the cattle in barn through the window next to you. Could see a glacier in background
    Next is a visit to Fridheimar farm where they grow tomatoes under a geothermal greenhouse. Very yummy tomatoes! There were also some Icelandic horses there, they do rides and teach horseriding.
    Porvaldseyri farm visit and film about surviving Eyjafallajokull volcano eruption in 2010. The whole farm was covered in layers of ash, now completely clean and very fertile soil from that. They also have a very good family museum of old household and farm articles.
    3 cuts of big round silage bales wrapped in plastic. Many fields with them. The pink ones 10% more expensive but the 10 % goes to breast cancer and blue ones to prostate cancer.
    Some farms have hot springs and make lots of many by selling the energy/heat to their neighbours/village. Many "summer house" villages near these springs.
    In afternoon drizzle and fog limiting views.
    Lots of water, lots of drains. Ash fields, rocky black basalt. Very furtile soil, lovely chocolate colour like north Tassie soil- spud country. Grow anything. Lots of "empty" farm land as many people leave for other countries or to Reykjavik. Large % of Icelanders live in Reykjavik (population 200 000)
    Into hotel about 7.30. Buffet at Hotel Katla in Vik. Lots of different food. Smoked or roast horse. Beef tongue. Arctic char fish    Read more

  • Maree CrawfordScandinavia and the BalticsTraveler

    Heading east through glacier country

    September 4, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Vik to Hofn. Drizzle and fog again today making visibility of the mountains poor.
    Visit very interesting fish farm, Fagridalur farm. Around 12,000 Atlantic char plus 300 Icelandic sheep descended from Viking sheep.
    Drive through Skaftafell National Park beneath Oraefajokull and Vatnajokull glaciers, and east to Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon, the seen of 2 James Bond movies
    1786 biggest eruption that sent ash over Europe causing crop failures and starvation. 3 years later - French revolution. Caused by Icelandic volcano???? according to Frederick
    Frederick very informative and very funny. Lots of good stories
    Huge lava field now covered with moss, amazing looking
    Icelanders are Lutherans now. Catholics once but was outlawed
    Oldest parts of Iceland 8 or 5 000 years old. Going west. Landscape changes
    Wee little sheep houses built around the 1800's.
    In 1998 there was a huge eruption melting and breaking off glacier and icebergs floating down the then massive river, wrecking bridges. 5 times the force of the Amazon
    2119 m highest point in Iceland with the longest bridge 1 km long    Read more

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