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West Highland Way
  • Brian Gallagher

West Highland Way

A 13-day adventure by Brian Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 27, 2017
    Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Pre Walk Edinburgh

    July 27, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We left Dunbar in the rain, after our goodbyes to Barbara, Tina, Walter & Patrick, and arrived in Edinburgh in torrential rain.
    Day 1 & 2 was spent posting parcels, laundry, getting our tickets for the Tattoo etc.
    Day 3 saw us going to Roslyn Chapel, a 45 min bus trip from Edinburgh. What an extraordinary example of stone masonry. There were too many fine examples to digest in our short visit. The Master and the Apprentice columns emphasised the difference between the rigid conformist designs of the old against the the extravagant design of the future.!
    Returning to the city we ate Italian before strolling up the Royal mile.
    We sampled S Luca ice cream as suggested by Sandi and enjoyed it on the cold, windy Princes Street.
    To bed early for our early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 1 Milngavie to Drymen.

    July 29, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We caught an earlier train than planned and fluked a direct service to Milngavie(Mullguy).
    It was a cold, miserable showery morning and it was cold on the train.
    On arrival we had breakfast before heading off. Light showers to start off with with intermittent heavy showers. The path was fairly level with lots of puddles. The fine views we were supposed to see did not eventuate due to the weather conditions.
    Lots of People walking, mainly young people, who would be camping. In these conditions they had our sympathy.
    Pleased to arrive mid-afternoon. We removed our wet gear and had a welcome shower.
    Should sleep well tonight.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 2 Drymen to Rowandrennan

    July 30, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A tough day. After an early breakfast we headed off and it wasn't long before the Gortex jacket came off. A muggy day with light showers..As the morning progressed it became overcast and we made steady progress. We took the alternative route to Balmaha via Milton Buchanan. Easier than climbing Mt Conic.
    We lunched at Balmaha and from there we were walking on the shore of Loch Lomand. Very romantic.
    The rain came. It's Scotland.! We had some lightweight ponchos and decided to try them out. They were great. No sauna bath like the Gortex.
    After 6 hours we were starting to tire and yes, they gave us. Couple of cruel ascents.
    We finally reached Rowandrennen and had a dink at the pub,
    A short walk later we reached the YHA. Beautifully located on the shores of the Loch.
    8 hours in total and after a good meal , and for me a well earn glass of red it's bedtime.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 3 Rowandrennan to beinglas bnb.

    July 31, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today was a hard,difficult day. We commenced at 8-45 and arrived at 18-30, worn out.
    The morning to Inversnaid, 11kms took us just over 4 hrs and the afternoon distance of 10 kms took us 5 hrs.
    We walk the banks of the Loch Lomond up and down on a very rocky and wet path. Quite muddy in parts. The afternoon was the worst. We struggled and some of the rock clambering was dangerous.
    It was quite obvious we would be late arriving and I phoned the BnB to advise. I was quite worried about Shirley for she suggested we should go on a cruise for relaxation. I took her pulse and felt her brow. She was not delirious. Just joking thank goodness.
    The young French couple told us that when they awoke their tent was floating on water, such was the heavy overnight downpour.
    The Scottish rain god is a miserable sod, who takes delight in making sure everyone and thing is drowned in rain. I have profusely apologised to him for the foul remarks I have directed to him, he doesn't listen,
    The youngster were quite surprised and pleased that we made it as they found the going tough. We arrived 1 hour after them.
    Tomorrow they tell us is easier. We shall see.
    One thing is sure we were pleased to see the back of the -::"(?!' Beautiful Loch Lomond.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 4. Invernan to Tyndrum

    August 1, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    The rain god played a nasty trick on the campers this morning. No rain overnight but just as the campers were packing up he drowned them. Nasty.
    We headed off, in the rain, naturally, and climbed steadily for about 1 1/2 hours. The way was on an 18th century military road and a rocky track. Thank goodness it was a vast improvement on yesterday.
    An interesting low passage under a railway line. Nearly on our knees.
    As usual nowhere to rest for 5 hours. A kind farmer had cleaned out a small cow shelter for walkers to take cover and rest. Very clean with two seats. Thank you farmer.
    Shortly after we came across a holiday camp and enjoyed some good company and a coffee.
    The rain god didn't like us enjoying ourselves so thunder and heavy rain escorted us to our lodgings.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher
    1

    Day 5. Tyndrum to Inveroran

    August 2, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The first thing Shirl said this morning was "I have decided on the cruise I want to take" I wondered if there was a doctor in the village. "A cruise on the Brisbane ferry" Whew!!!
    The good news continued as the Rain God was taking a sickie until 3pm. He does have a soft side.
    After breakfast we slowly climb out of Tyndrum on an 18th century road. They had a good infrastructure programme in those days. The sun eventually came out and we had a lovely easy stroll to the Bridge of Orchy. Today,s walk was what we imagined both Scottish walks would be like.
    After indulging in a cream tea we walked a further 5 kms to Invernan. We said our goodbyes to the two young girls( Emily and Agat) both aged 17. Two very capable young ladies.
    Our day finished at 1-45 and after showering we adjourned to the walkers bar where we spent an agreeable few hours talking to Theo and Jan, two young French.
    It started to rain at 3pm as per the forecast. We hope for a fine day tomorrow as we have a 16kms walk over the desolate Rannoch Moor.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 6. Inveroran to Glencoe

    August 3, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After a disappointing breakfast we headed off on the Drovers Trail to Glencoe. The only good thing about the trail was that our feet were dry. The weather was good and we have quite stunning views. On either side of the trail was bog.
    Rannoch Moor is the largest uninhabited wilderness in the UK.(50 square miles) our friends "the yellow submarine orchids" were in abondance and testimony to the danger of stepping off the path.
    The rocky trail was hard on the feet and we were filled with admiration for Emily and Agathe who did this walk in conjunction withthe walk to Inveroran. Character building.
    We made good time and caught the 12-27 bus to Glencoe. He wouldn't drop us off at the junction road to the SYHA so we alighted at Glencoe village.
    After lunch we made the 1hours walk to the hostel.
    Only frozen meals at the hostel so off we went to the Clachaig pub for a meal. A 20 min walk.
    I have ordered a taxi to take us back to Kinghouse for tomorrow's walk.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 7. Kinghouse to Kinlochleven

    August 4, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The taxi delivered us to Kinghouse on time for breakfast. Yes you guessed it, it was raining and the mountains were shrouded in mist.
    It took us over an hour to reach the bottom of "the Devils Staiyway". So named by the people who built it. It took us 45 mins to reach the top. 548m the highest point on the WHW. At the top was an honesty box for soft drinks and water. We saw at least 15 walkers out to bag a monro.
    The downward track was a bit of an ordeal for us. Many rocks that threatened ankle injury.
    The mist swirled around us as fellow walkers appeared and disappeared in the gloom.
    We were happy to arrive and the day was finished.
    I managed to get Shirl the latest episode of Poldark and all is well.
    Looking forward to the last day tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 8 Kinlochleven to Fort William.

    August 6, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Off bright and early we headed off with the sun shining. A stiff climb soon followed and the effect of the previous day's walking made us labour to the top. Views were good and once over the top we made good progress passing the tents of the wild campers. As we approached one of them a young girl flew out of the tent. Our first thought was that she was desperate for the toilet. No! The dreaded middies were eating her alive. The spray she had was useless. We sprayed her with Jungle Juice and all was well.
    Continuing on an undulating track up the glen we passed several abandoned homesteads. Nothing but bog either side of the track. Good for nothing.
    After four hours Shirl stumbled and ripped the flesh on her left forearm and elbow. It looked and was terrible. We treated it as best we could and continued. Many offers of help were declined as in these situations there's not a lot anyone can do.
    Two hours later we made it to Fort William and the hospital. We couldn't fault their care and attention. It took about 2 hours to clean, peal the skin back and remove all the gravel.
    Arm on sling Shirl was looking tired. A taxi took us to the hostel near Ben Nevis where we cleaned up went for dinner then bed.
    Our original intention was to climb Ben Nevis on our rest day but we had given that idea up several days ago. It was not on now if we wanted to change our mind.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher
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    Day 9. Rest Day Fort William

    August 6, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Our first task was to visit the hospital for a check of Shirl's injured arm. It looks awful but they were pleased and said it look really good.
    A celebratory coffee was called for and then a brief tour of the town.
    Back to the hostel for some rest. Shirl had a reaction to the antibiotics and so we will not use them.
    It's freezing here at the moment and we are looking forward to dinner and sleep as we have an early train tomorrow .
    I took a photo of the arm. Not nice to look at.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Thanks.

    August 7, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Thanks for your messages re Shirl. Nurse Gallagher Snr will take good care of her

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 10. Fort William to Edinburgh

    August 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Up early we boarded the early morning rattler to Edinburgh. Still showery and from time to time we spotted walkers trudging through the rain. During the journey we were able to enjoy the scenery in comfort. It is beautiful.
    Ensconced in our hotel we showered and had a nap in preparation for the Tattoo.
    A final Scottish meal, a stroll up the Royal Mile, joining the queue for the performance.
    It was a fine, cold night and along with 9000 other spectators enjoyed the colour, pomp, precision and pagentry whilst freezing our thingamajigs off. A wonderful night.
    The themes was Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites. The crowd enjoyed the mock battle between the Redcoats and The Highlanders who sent the English packing. In reality the Scots won very few battles.
    And do to bed for 4 hours sleep before our flight to Lisbon. Sun and rest.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 11. Portugal.

    August 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The taxi dropped off two weary travellers at the airport at 5-30am for our flight. Smooth. Easy check in with Easyjet and security.
    Flight departed on time and Shirl slept all the way to Lisbon.
    I said to Shirl last night that the Scots are very optimistic, they buy sunglasses. To prove me wrong it was a glorious day as we climbed out of Edinburgh.
    Today was a travelling day. Arrival and processing was straight forward and quick. The taxi took is to the Rodovaria Sete Rios( seven rivers). Not the most pleasant of places, but was it efficient. The bus company Rede Expressos has a very modern, comfortable fleet. A smooth, enjoyable trip followed and we arrived at Alcobaca about 1645, tired but happy to be here.
    A shower, early meal and off to bed.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 8, 2017
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