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Down Under 2019
  • Cindy and Daryl Brown

Down Under 2019

Une aventure de 64 jours par Cindy and Daryl En savoir plus
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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Can't help it...have to take more scenery pics. I know...you have to be there!
    Picked up our luggage at Wedderburn shed. Sitting all day unattended...no worries, mate.Scene from one of the many cool bridges.Yet another ganger's shed...a necessary supply in the dayCould be Kamloops area...Naseby is curling capital of Otago. Hard! Hurry hard!Surveyor mates.Caught Daryl studying this poster...

    Easy Riders

    21 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande

    A glorious downhill ride through the farmland. Farm after farm after farm. Makes for not bad viewing... Rock and Pillar ranges in the background.

    Ranfurly...the only town that came about due to the railway and not discovery of gold. Art deco town; statue of John Turnbull Thompson...first surveyor general of NZ...so particularly relevant for one of us travelers 😉.  On to Waipiata for lunch...New Zealand pies...lamb and mint; beef and blue cheese; pumpkin, spinach, ricotta...delicious! Oh...and a pint 🍺.

    No hurry to our place for the night but then....the wind came up 💨.  Yes...headwind!  But with a downhill grade, sun shining and a belly-ful of pie...somehow we made it 🙂. Rain was in the forecast but clear skies all day, so can't complain too much. Especially with the home cooked meal provided at our place that night. Much appreciated after our 49 km!    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Yup. We started in Clyde!
    We did it our way 🙃Sheep herding in action, along the trail.Oops. Dont go that way...DB working that switch!Aussie cycle mates...a fun crew we met along the trail.Taieri Gorge Railway...world class.Tallest wrought iron viaduct.Taieri Gorge. Steady on there, train master!

    Otago Rail Trail Complete!

    21 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Last day on the rail trail. What a super trip!  An easy day of only 27 km...all downhill. Rain forecast again didn't materialize. We had a sun angel on our side the whole time ☀️👼.  The wind devil 💨👿  snuck in a few times but we're tough 💪.

    203 km later we're ready to head back to reality. A perfect transition taking the Taieri Gorge Railroad from Pukerangi to Dunedin. 10 tunnels,12 viaducts, fab gorge views, then back to civilization. It really felt like we were in another world for the last 5 days. You bikers out there..put it in your list    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    New Zealand's own 'apostle'. Not just on the great ocean road.
    See us way up there?Secret tunnel to the private beach.Cool rock alley ways.Great beach. Cool rocks.2Be careful Kirsten!Happy beer consumers 🙄Go Highlanders!A loyal fan!Dunedin train station on the walk home.

    Dunedin Life

    22 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Great escapes so close to town. Tunnel Beach is one. Steep hill down with views that rival Aussie's 12 apostles...Kiwi's own 'London Bridge'.  Watch your step...strong winds and slippery slopes have taken people over the cliff.  A secret tunnel...legend says was built so John Cargill's daughters could sunbathe out of sight of prying eyes...intrigue!

    Hike is rewarded at the NewNewNew brewery...taproom only open on Fridays...our good luck. (Great beer 🍻!)

    Then...the local rugby team has its home opener at Forsyth Barr stadium. We're in! Our first pro rugby game....when in New Zealand..... 🙂.  The Highlanders (which included a number of All Blacks players) prevailed, in a close game against the Queensland Reds (Yay...we beat the Aussies!)  Uni students out in force sitting in the "Zoo" behind the end zone. Great fun!    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    A new discovery
    212 Park runnersMargaret and Kevin from Manchester.. regular Parkrunners!Top of Otago PeninsulaIt was supposed to rain!Trekking down to Sandfly BaySandy boogie boardersSea lions like to keep the sand piled on...Oregon coast?Then we have to get back up...see Kirsten way ahead 😂?

    A day in the life...

    23 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Woke up...fell out of bed...dragged a comb across my head...    (Beatles 1967)

    Then went for a run.  Parkrun.  5 km free, timed run that happens all over the world on a Saturday morning.  Who knew?  Well...a lovely couple from Manchester who we met on the bike trip.

    This one in Dunedin through the Botanic gardens. After a couple of times on the treadmill this trip, Cindy thought..."I should be able to do this." Bolstered by her support group (Daryl) she now has her first Parkrun under her belt.  Locals say Dunedin is the hardest route in the world...with the 100 m STEEP hill (twice!) that may well be so. Great views, tho I think I'll prefer our Victoria run from Clover Point to the Beacon Hill duck pond!  This was the 99th parkrun for our Manchester buddy. A new addiction?

    Then to Dunedin market...2 weeks in a row...we're regulars!  Delicious crepe filled the gap.  Kirsten got her weekly groceries, then guided us to the Otago peninsula.  Oh dear 😯...more awesome views!   And a trek down to Sandfly Bay...long sandy beach, boogie boards down sand dunes (we took the spectator role on that one), sea lions, haystack in the ocean like the Oregon Coast. Again...only 20 minutes from town.     En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    1
    Otago university clock tower (in background 😉)Otago University anniversary yearBeautiful old campus streetsOtago survey school.Oaken cafe by the U. Yummmm.Nice to hang out with this gal...Dunedin art galleryChinese exhibit...made from luxury Italian leather.

    Otago University

    24 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande

    Kirsten's educational hangout for the last few years...one more to go. A beautiful old campus.... celebrating 150 years.

    Lunch at Oaken cafe near the Uni. Great to have the local knowledge 😋.

    Visit to Dunedin art gallery. Right by the Octagon...centre of town, 8 sides 😉.  Where we saw the pipe bands. Lots of bars, restaurants, coffee shops. Kirsten's flat 12 min away.

    We like Dunedin 😊. But we may be biased...    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Central Otago... Cromwell
    Not too hard to take.Lake Dunstan...created by the Clyde dam.Wine trail or bust!A walking we will go...Town of Lawrence.Brighton beach...just outside Dunedin.Big waves...but no surfers. Absolutely no one else in the beach!

    They say it's like BC...

    26 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande

    ...and we do see the similarities. We're back in rail trail country... Central Otago...known for their Pinot noir. Has 170 vineyards...similar to Okanagan... mountains, big lakes, vineyards on the hills, fruit orchards.

    Cromwell... crossroads of the region and the NZ town farthest from the sea.  Locals say it's also the fastest growing.   

    Walk the 4 barrel wine trail...3 5 hours the brochure says. We did it in a blistering 6.5 hours...ok, so we took our time. What are holidays for?  A good little marketing gig, the trail itself could use some work...like move the highway section, signage thru the campground, climbing over fences.  But that's not what took the time. Lots of chatting with the cellar door folk and fellow winos 😋. The last vineyard will be a subdivision in a few years... progress they say...🤔.

    More cute towns on the way here...gold mining history...got that down!  And another great beach right outside Dunedin!    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    This from the golf course!
    Arrowtown... gold mining past...toursim now.Wanaka puzzletownGolf watching down under...US Open champions 2005/06...Geoff Ogilvie (Aus); Michael Campbell (NZ). (For you golfers out there 🏌️)Cool sculptures all around the golf course. (The guy in front is real 😜).Lining up for a fergburger in Queenstown. Gotta be something to it?1Party central!Adventure tourism anyone?Gotta have a scenery shot or two...

    Is that another gold mining town...?

    28 février 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande

    Cute little town started 1860-odd with the gold Rush.  After the gold dwindled out, bit of a lull (ok..big lull)...before farming and now tourism took over. Repeat...and repeat again...for most towns we've visited in the south Island. In fact...in Aussie too.

    Queenstown, Wanaka, Arrowtown ...stunning settings, growing like mad.  Scenery continues!!  Ski resorts, adventure tourism...young people...party, tramping. Anything and everything outdoors that might fit your fancy!

    We saw Marlon Williams last night in Queenstown. Christmas gift from Kirsten...cool gift eh? Up and coming Kiwi indie folk singer-songwriter. Great concert! Listen here...  https://youtu.be/zchdH3zAYAE. He's opening in Dunedin for the Eagles tour...we're just missing that one!

    100th New Zealand Open Golf championship in Arrowtown today. A different way to 'tramp' here. We followed two US open winners for the front nine. Amazing golf course in the now usual 'killer south New Zealand setting'.

    Have you tried a fergburger? International social-media-renowned burger in Queenstown. We didn't have the patience for the queue but many say it's worth the wait. Guess we'll have to 'wait' until next trip to find out.    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Lake Te Anau
    Our hike was straight up in the bush.Friendly bird on our little hikeStoat trap in the park. They're a real nuisance here.Every New Zealand town, large and small, have accessible public toilets. Great for travelers!Kingston Flyer cafe.Souvenir sheep anyone?Appies on our deck... with a lake view 🙂

    Even more relaxing...

    1 mars 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    If you can have a relaxing day even on holidays this was it. A nice drive through more great scenery in the Otago region.  Easy driving. Through some really small towns.  But they all had public toilets... absolutely every town here does...and a cafe.  Kingston... working on a heritage refurbished train. Mossburn has more souvenir sheep in their general convenience store than anywhere.

    Short hike to a waterfall on Shirttail track. Sign said it got steep afterwards.  Well...steep is relative we find out. All uphill from the get-go. And when the signs said 'dangerous'...we didn't have to be told twice.  But only got a waterfall 'glimpse'. No fair 🤨.  Oh well ..nice flat white and yummy carrot cake snack as a consolation.

    Te Anau is our stop today. Gateway to Fiordland National park and Milford Sound. Really nice town.  Low rise accommodation across the road from the lake so foreshore fully accessible. Seems less touristy than recent towns tho the tours from here are world renowned. Maybe a bit more remote and without the extra adventure stuff?    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Boat ride
    A short hike in Fiordland National parkNot always a quiet, serene experience...But the views!At Chasm Falls on the way to MilfordI forget the name of this river...it doesn't matter.1Enjoying 'morning tea' thanks to our guide Terry's prep.Milford Sound in all its glory.Mitre Peak in Milford SoundOl' squash buds reunite in Milford Sound!

    Milford Sound

    2 mars 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Fabulous tour through Fiordland National park... glacier-carved fiords, natural forests  (New Zealand doesn't have many of these since early settlers cut down most trees to make room for ranching), lakes, rivers, waterfalls...has it all!  

    End point is Milford Sound...stunning. This place gets 200 days of rain a year...and we missed them all. An absolutely gorgeous day...our luck is hanging in! Boat ride shows Mitre Peak, cascading waterfalls (captain had fun getting close enough to drench those who didn't heed his warning), seals, sheltered inlets, wild window to Tasman Sea.

    A tourist destination means rubbing shoulders sometime but also some quiet spots...like 'morning tea' watching climbers on the nearby mountain. River walks, and detours into the bush.

    A nice lady offered to take our picture on the boat, and I thought, 'I know this woman'....."Are you Nancy Stern?".  Sure enough...a squash buddy from the ol' days.  Used to crash at her place in Nanaimo during tournaments. Small world!    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Clifton suspension bridge
    Redcliff wetlandsGemstone beach...yet another beauty.Relaxing in Queen's park, InvercargillOld water tower. InvercargillSheep in the hassock grass on the way to Slope Point2Which way do we go now?Its a long way down...Relaxing after another tough day 😉

    The Southern Scenic Route

    3 mars 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    'Not to be missed' said the guidebook, and we're glad we listened.  The road less traveled...more amazing scenery (I know...it's getting tedious), tiny towns, walk thru the Redcliff wetlands...man-made to re-establish lost habitat... heritage suspension bridge (not the first one we've seen and still cool), famous fish n chips in Riverton while looking out to the sea. 

    Made it to the southernmost point on New Zealand's mainland (save Stewart Island for next trip?). Walk thru a farmer's sheep pasture (certainly seen enough of these guys this trip!). Howling wind, no fences on these cliffs!

    Stay nite at Tokanui. Tiny but welcoming with great views of the Catlin hills at our Airbnb.     En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Farewell dinner.
    Papatowai beachLove a good beach walk!On the way to the fallsMost photographed falls for calendars in NZYup...thats me with the lighthouse.Its steep here...no rails!Nuggets off the pointPictures don't do justice to the thrashing sea lion ripping at its lunch.Till next time, Kirsten 👋

    Save the best for last?

    4 mars 2019, Nouvelle-Zélande ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Remote, rugged, jaw-dropping. The Catlins lived up to their billing. No large towns hence...no tour buses.  We had to pick our stops...sights missed may well be picked up on our next trip, as Kirsten plans to stay put for awhile in this beautiful country.

    Papatowai...walk along another great beach then through a natural forest.  Must stop for our long black now.  Then Purakaunui falls ...more serene than Niagara and also beautiful!  Picnic lunch in Owaka.. another cute town. 

    Now the topper! Hike to Nugget Point lighthouse...steep drop on all sides into the sea. 'Nuggets' of land just offshore. A sea-lion having lunch far below...not so far that we can't tell he's eating a baby fur seal 😯.  When you can't go to the 4-Square (Save-on at home). Quite amazing. And don't get too

    Back in Dunedin and a farewell dinner with Kirsten. A busy week starting her final year at uni. Add to that a weekend road trip to a concert in Nelson. Plenty to keep her going! Etrusco Italian restaurant... delicious pasta, cool heritage building, fine Otago chardonnay.... memorable final night.    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    It may rain, but it doesn't matter...
    'Casual luxury' at Tamanu BeachPerfect patio for relaxing after an arduous travel day 😉Breakfast view.Chicken buddies. The cat's don't bother them either.On the cycle road again...🚴Not quite the superstore of home...but has all we need.Lunch spot with the locals.Marina.Good and hot here...keep the body temp down.

    The Cooks!

    7 mars 2019, Îles Cook ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Kia Orana! Farewell to NZ, hello Cook Islands. South Pacific paradise - here we come!

    Uh...just a sec....  Head down to check out the beach. Water is warm but...black sea slugs everywhere. Hmmm...maybe we'll skip the ocean swim 🤑. Then the scratching starts...dinner time for the bugs..and we're dinner 🕷️ 😫 🐜! Bug spray safely tucked away in our luggage  ...rookies!  

    Admittedly it took a few hours to settle in...blame the early morning and travel day... but with regular application of pest repellent, we're ready to embrace island time on Aitutaki. One of the smaller, outer islands....tourism here since the 70s but local council restricts development so they're keeping what people come for...which is not much! No tour buses here... lots of beaches, palm trees blowing in the breeze 🌴, enough places to eat.

    Scooters all rented out so we take bikes...just as well...who knows where I may have ended up 😜!  speed limit is 40 km on the roads, 20 in 'town'.
    No real town...just a collection of small businesses including bike and scooter rentals, lagoon tours, snorkelling. 

    Our accommodation promotes 'casual luxury'. Cats and chickens keep us company (starting with the rooster at 5:45 this morning 😴😉.  Hammock, dipping pool, nice outside restaurant, great staff.  It's gonna be all right!  We think yet again...we're lucky people!    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Hold that memory!
    Coconut cracking looks easy...Gourmet hot lunch in middle of nowhereNesting birdsThey filmed 'Survivor' here!Island night!Ukelele man!When in the South Pacific...

    Aitutaki wonder

    10 mars 2019, Îles Cook ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    OK. So we did find paradise after all.

    The best boat tour to 7 small (tiny!) islands within the lagoon. Palm trees, sandy beaches...just like we pictured them!...warm water, nesting birds. A small boat...9 fellow tourists (They all spoke German but I doubt they were talking about us 🤣). 

    'Captain Fantastic' manouerved around shallow rocks at high speed (not his first rodeo!). Swimming along the way...lovely warm water, sandy beaches. Amazing lunch on ___ island served in large clam shells and palm leaves. Yellow fin tuna bbq'd perfectly. Bread fruit, bbq'd banana, grapefruit salad, etc. etc....  Coconut cracking demonstration (never know when you need to do that).

    Snorkelling got you views of countless colourful fish...all sizes, BIG tuna...who hang around for the feeding... giant clam shells (don't put your finger in 😲). Genuine, authentic locals, beautiful warm day (ok...hot ☀️☀️!), great fellow guests (maybe we'll meet in Munich one day). No touristy vibe (even tho we are they!).  

    This after island nite at Tamanu Beach. Local ukelele/guitar band playing during delicious buffet dinner, followed by dancers, drummers, and fire throwers. All local, all ages. Good fun when they had the tourists join in. Yah...the locals are definitely better!

    Quieter around the place tonite... tourist season waning. No complaints here.  Relax....    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Everyone gets lei'd on Rarotonga
    Our beach bungalowPoor fan is on it's last legsLemme at those hens!Te Rua Manga...the 'Needle'.This excavator has seen better days!Tropical abundance!Always a great view from the golf course 😁. Lush island interior.DB in his handmade islander shirt.Beach walking...

    Two sides to every story...

    13 mars 2019, Îles Cook ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    So you don't get too jealous, and before you lay down money for your trip to the Cooks...it's only fair you have full information.

    It is beautiful here, mainly off the grid, mostly rustic. There is a but.. 

    Humidity at this time of year.... makes us feel lethargic and uncomfortable 😓. Remedies:  ocean swims, breezes, air conditioning ❄️. Rain also helps.

    Bugs...pretty much need to spray the poison stuff on before we leave the room. Not a fan of that but better than suffering the bites. Open air restaurant for breakfast...with the ants of course 🐜.

    Roosters... doesn't 'dawn' mean anything to these guys??  3.30 am this morning...and 45 minute intervals until daylight, then whenever. There are LOTS of feral chickens everywhere 🐓 so I guess the roosters have to work overtime 😜.  Noise cancelling headphones at the ready tonite!

    Wabi-sabi... must be a challenge to keep up the infrastructure in this moisture and sun...and it adds to the rustic charm of the place. But think it'd be better if we couldn't see the gravel creek bed through the floorboards from inside our bungalow! 😏 Good thing the geckos join us to get the inside bugs.

    It's partly the time of year (wld be better during their winter)...and maybe we're just ready to head home. 

    Still...we're enjoying the last few days of our great holiday. Rarotonga is the largest and most developed of the islands. Basically one road around the outside... holiday villas and hotels, tourist shops, restaurants. A road slightly inland shows the local flavour... mangos, bananas, chickens, local homes, roosters, the odd cow, pig... chickens. We'll pass on the cross island trek up to the 'needle' and stick to the ocean and our books. We're right beside the beach so no complaints there.

    Our adventure may not be over yet...we are currently booked to fly from LA to Vancouver on a Boeing  Max 8. Guess I'll have to detour to Indian Wells to watch the tennis finals while we wait for another flight 😉. Just glad Canada got on board (pardon the pun) with the ban.    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Rarotonga sunset
    Up on the hill.Choking that darn chicken!Lunch view...Logging the hours...Sunset

    And on the up side...

    14 mars 2019, Îles Cook ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Somebody's gotta do it. Here's the drill on Rarotonga.... 

    Wake up. Look out past the palm trees to the ocean...a bit windy today, 40% chance of rain. Buffet brekky at our yellow hibiscus restaurant. Now the decisions... let's start with a paddle...find the turtles who hang out between the shallow and deep water. Big headwind...we can do it in our double kayak!  No luck on the turtles but fun out here tho 😃. Look!  Big blue fish hightailing it somewhere 🐟.  Head back to our beach...easy street going downwind 🌬️. Let's head toward the reef where the waves are breaking...350 m from the beach. Don't go too close!...our paddling not good enough to battle that current!

    Ok...that was fun. Now let's snorkel. Coloured fish on the coral right off our beach. It's shallow for as far as you can go (good and safe for Cindy 🙃) .  Deep blue starfish, angel fish, tiger fish (this is where my aquarium fish come from!), multi-colour fish...easy viewing!  Don't stick your finger in the crevice!

    Shower up...let's go out for lunch today. To the nice place we saw on the hill.  Great ocean views from the lush island interior. Exquisite food...no room for dessert!

    Little rest back at our bungalow...cool down in the air conditioning (not too efficient but better than outside 🤒). Read a book on the deck. Walk on the beach. What d'ya know... happy hour 🍹!

    On the deck...looking out to the sea and sand past the palm trees (there's a memory here!). We last until the bugs figure out the mosquito coil can't really hurt them.

    Check out the sunset at the beach...

    Ok... We'll take one for the team.    En savoir plus

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  • Cindy and Daryl BrownDown Under 2019Voyageur
    Home Sweet Home 🏡
    South Pacific Rain!Popular wedding venuePalm tree memoryOur Rarotonga chariotSure good to see this airport sign!Please let this be the the last photo.📸What an appropriate place to buy gas.

    Wrap 'er up!

    16 mars 2019, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Rain greeted us to Roratonga and rain sent us away.  And it does know how to rain down here! 

    A wedding on the beach in front of our place got lucky with the sun out just enough.  A palm tree planted by the happy couple to mark the occasion 🌴.

    An inside day...pack up, lunch at a sand floor beach restaurant, cribbage (Daryl the overall holiday winner 😜).

    Happy hour with free beer and wine (can't beat that deal!), dinner at Yellow Hibiscus, then head to the airport for our midnight flight to LAX....nope...now 1 am. Of course that delayed the following flights which made a long travel day even longer. But when you start in the middle of nowhere...

    Many, many thanks for a safe and great adventure. 13 different flights (enough delays but no lost luggage!), too many air miles, 4800 driving kms (on the wrong side of the road!), 250 cycling kms, LOTS of walking.  63 days away, 32 different beds, mucho long blacks and flat whites. Great visit with Kirsten who lives 12,279 kms away. 

    And we've proven yet again... Victoria is one of the best places to be...except for this past February☃️ (hehehe).

    Home you say...what a good idea!    En savoir plus

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    Fin du voyage
    16 mars 2019