Day 6

It feels like we’re extending our sleep-in time by an hour each day—we made it to 6:30 a.m. today! We hadn’t booked hotel breakfast, figuring we’d just grab something at Berlin Hauptbahnhof before our train to Warsaw. The station was its usual whirlwind of travellers, but a quick coffee and croissant seemed easier (and cheaper) than hunting down a sit-down café.

Our train pulled in on time, though naturally, our carriage was the furthest one from where we were standing. After a bit of a jog, we made it—and ended up scoring an entire six-seat compartment to ourselves for the five-hour journey. A comfortable way to cross another border.

The carriage attendants were all Polish (we were now on a PKP Intercity train), and when one asked if we wanted coffee, I fumbled to ask if they had oat milk—unsuccessfully. Only later did I realise I could’ve just used Google Translate. When the bill arrived, I had a brief moment of panic: 26.50 for two coffees?! Then I remembered—Polish złoty, not euros.

Later, the same attendant returned with complimentary water, juice, and chocolate bars—unexpected and appreciated. Despite a slight delay, the ride was smooth and far better than some of our rail experiences in Vietnam or the U.S.

We checked out the dining car, which turned out to be a nice surprise. WARS, Poland’s long-running railway catering service, has been serving meals since the 1940s, and the quality has definitely held up. Ted went for a classic combo of eggs, bacon, and Polish sausage, while I opted for pierogi ruskie—traditional dumplings filled with potato and cheese, topped with fried onions, and easily one of the country’s best-loved comfort foods.

There was even zupa szczawiowa (sorrel soup) on the menu—a tangy, spinach-like soup made with sorrel leaves and usually served with egg and potato. I was tempted… until I read the ingredients and wasn’t quite ready to be that adventurous.

We rolled into Warsaw about thirty minutes late due to technical issues. The crew kept us informed and were apologetic, which made a difference. Warsaw Central Station was calmer than Berlin’s sprawling chaos, and we were soon outside.

Despite the rain, our first sight of Warsaw was the massive Palace of Culture and Science. Built in the 1950s as a “gift” from Stalin, it’s part Soviet skyscraper, part symbol of Warsaw’s ability to reframe its past. Some see it as a symbol of Communist oppression, others as an iconic part of the skyline. Either way, it’s impossible to miss—at 237 metres, it’s still the tallest building in Poland.

The walk to our apartment took about ten minutes, with a minor delay caused by my confusing the first floor with the third. But it was worth it—the apartment is spacious, modern, and a definite step up from our compact hotel room in Berlin.

After unpacking, we headed to a local supermarket to stock up. I’ve been to Warsaw before, but for Ted this was a first. His initial impression? Bigger, grander, and more elegant than expected.

By late afternoon, with the weather still grey and wet, we decided to explore Warsaw’s Old Town—a part of the city known to be charming in any conditions. The area was almost entirely destroyed during World War II, but painstakingly rebuilt using old paintings and architectural records. Today, it’s UNESCO-listed for exactly that reason.

We bought a 24-hour transport pass through the Jakdojade app, which made navigating the tram system easy. Even in fading light, Old Town was stunning. The cobbled streets, colourful buildings, and detailed facades felt like a step back in time. We stopped at the Royal Castle, once home to Polish monarchs, and admired Sigismund’s Column—erected in 1644 to honour the king who moved the capital from Kraków to Warsaw.

Nearby, we saw the statue of Jan Zachwatowicz, the man behind the city’s extraordinary post-war reconstruction efforts. Thanks to him, much of what we see today is a faithful recreation of what once stood.

On the way back, we accidentally got off the tram one stop early—which turned out to be a stroke of luck. The Palace of Culture and Science was glowing in the evening light, and we got the perfect nighttime photo.

Tomorrow’s forecast looks overcast but dry. With one full day left in Warsaw, we’re hoping to see as much as we can—between palaces, parks, and maybe a bit more pierogi.Læs mere