Day 7

We were up early again—5:30 a.m.—which gave us a solid head start. The morning air was noticeably colder, so after a proper coffee from Etna Café just near the apartment, we mapped out the day and got moving.

Our first stop was Łazienki Park, one of the city’s most beautiful public spaces. Commissioned by King Stanisław August in the 18th century, the park blends manicured gardens, classical architecture, and open woodland in a way that feels more royal estate than urban park.

The standout was the Palace on the Isle, perched right on the water and perfectly mirrored in the lake’s surface. We also explored the elegant New Orangery, with its landscaped forecourt guarded by stone lions, and wandered along paths lined with marble statues of mythological figures. Even without sunshine, the setting was impressive—lush, expansive, and carefully curated. A few shots from the amphitheatre and gardens might end up being some of our best from Warsaw.

From there, things got a little chaotic. Determined to track down the remnants of the Warsaw Ghetto, we pieced together a plan involving a bus, a tram, and the metro… and got absolutely nowhere. Frustrated and empty-handed, we detoured to the Palace of Culture and Science, but with school groups swarming in, we decided to come back later.

Back in the city centre, Ted picked up a T-shirt for me at H&M—one of those unexpected holiday finds that’ll probably stick with me long after the trip. We eventually made it to Old Town for lunch at a small restaurant called Gościniec. I went for placki ziemniaczane (crispy potato pancakes with sour cream), while Ted had gulasz wieprzowy—a rich pork stew, slow-cooked with paprika and onion.

We considered heading back for a rest, but when we noticed a direct bus to Wilanów Palace, we decided to press on. Despite a few lingering school groups, Wilanów turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. The palace is grand and vibrant, surrounded by some of the finest formal gardens we’ve seen anywhere. Built in the late 1600s for King Jan III Sobieski, it somehow escaped the wartime destruction that levelled much of Warsaw. Its French-style gardens, sculpted hedges, and decorative statuary gave it a distinctly Versailles feel—only quieter, more relaxed, and arguably more charming. Honestly, it made Berlin’s Charlottenburg Palace look a little modest by comparison.

We’d bought tickets to see the interior, and while the exterior had already wowed us, the rooms inside took things up another level. Unlike many European palaces that can feel overly staged or repetitive, this one felt lived-in and layered with character.

Each room was colour-themed and distinctive—the Yellow Room gleamed with gilded stucco and ornate ceiling mouldings, while the King’s Library was lined with leather-bound volumes in Polish and Latin. Much of the original furniture has either survived or been beautifully restored, and you could still see parquet floors, decorative plasterwork, and period wall coverings that felt authentic rather than overly polished.

A more sobering aspect came from small signs describing the looting and destruction during the Nazi occupation. Many priceless artworks were stolen; while a few have been recovered, many remain missing to this day. It added a poignant layer to what was otherwise a majestic, richly preserved window into Poland’s royal heritage.

The trip back wasn’t smooth. My phone died, we missed our stop, and ended up stuck on a slow loop through the suburbs. Eventually, we found a tram line and made it back to the apartment for a well-earned break.

Later that evening, we made a second—and this time successful—attempt to visit the Warsaw Ghetto Memorial. Tucked into a quiet street corner, it includes a bronze map marking the former ghetto boundaries and a plaque honouring those who lived and died within its walls. Between 1940 and 1943, over 400,000 Jews were forced into this walled area under horrific conditions. Most were eventually deported to extermination camps. Standing there, reading the words, was sobering—but important.

From there, we wandered into a nearby park and were completely caught off guard by how peaceful and beautiful it was. It turned out to be Krasiński Garden, which wraps around the equally impressive Krasiński Palace. The formal flowerbeds, fountains, and long walkways created a calm and elegant atmosphere. Even better, it was full of locals walking their dogs—big dogs, small dogs, all of them joyful—which gave the space a warm, lived-in feel that balanced out the weight of everything we’d seen that day.

We finished with a laid-back dinner at a nearby Mexican restaurant, followed by a drink at Lodi Dodi, a chilled-out bar close to home. We made it back around midnight—legs sore, batteries drained, and minds full.

Today was about contrasts—palaces and playgrounds, history and everyday life, grandeur and grit. Warsaw’s story is layered, but it’s that complexity that makes it such a rewarding city to experience.Read more