Day 12

The morning kicked off early — not by choice. Turns out staying directly across from a major cathedral comes with a less-than-silent alarm system. The bells of St. Stephen’s Basilica are beautiful, but not at 6 a.m. If you’re planning to stay in the square, pack earplugs. Trust me.

We had grand plans to start the day with coffee and a wander through the famous Great Market Hall, which technically was open when we arrived, though most stalls hadn’t opened yet. No problem — we figured we’d return later. We ducked into a nearby café called Mia’s for coffee and croissants, only to suddenly realise something felt off… no backpack. That triggered a fun five-minute debate over whether we’d lost it, left it, or hallucinated bringing it in the first place. Spoiler: it was right where we left it — back at the apartment.

Eventually, we took a couple of buses over to Buda Castle. The trip up felt like a bit of a maze — elevators, paths, winding walkways — and we never really knew where we were until we were right at the top. The castle itself sits proudly over the Danube, with manicured gardens, wide courtyards and some serious architectural presence. Just walking around the grounds gives you a good sense of the place’s scale and history.

Instead of taking the funicular back down (which felt like a bit of a tourist trap), we strolled down the hill on foot. On the way, we noticed just how many tour groups were clustering around — likely from the river cruises docked below. It’s the kind of spot where people follow a little flag and an umbrella and try not to lose their group.

We pressed on uphill again (Budapest has a thing for hills) to Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion. From the street, we weren’t expecting much beyond another grand church and maybe some views — but we were wrong. The whole area is stunning, like something plucked from a storybook. The church’s colourful tiled roof looks like it’s made of dragon scales, and the Bastion itself is straight-up fantasyland. Pointed towers, sweeping staircases, and arches that perfectly frame the city below. We took our time here — it’s easy to see why it’s one of Budapest’s most photographed spots. From the lookout, the Parliament building sat proudly across the Danube, and the city just sprawled out in every direction.

The Hospital in the Rock museum was meant to be our next stop, but it hadn’t opened yet by the time we got there. Not a big deal — we’d already done a fair bit of climbing, walking, and accidental backpack-forgetting.

So, we headed back across to the Pest side and returned to the now bustling Great Market Hall. It was alive with energy: stalls of paprika, meats, fresh fruit, lacework, and souvenirs, all layered over two levels of organised chaos. Ted grabbed a hearty Hungarian sausage and sauerkraut combo, while I stuck to the vegetarian stuff — potatoes, veggies and dumplings. Not the most balanced plate, but satisfying — and mercifully free of deep-fried dough. We were still recovering from yesterday’s lángos.

Whilst out sightseeing, I spotted two little signs that reminded me of Hungary’s quirky cultural contributions to the world. One was a Rubik’s Cube shop — an entire store dedicated to the colorful, infuriating little puzzle invented right here by Ernő Rubik. The other was the “House of Houdini,” a museum about his life, which gave me pause until I remembered: Harry Houdini was born in Budapest. There’s something fun about spotting these quiet nods to Hungarian icons — kind of like finding Easter eggs in the city.

After that, we headed back to the apartment for a bit of downtime. Since being out, the square had undergone a full transformation. What had been a regular day outside St. Stephen’s Basilica now looked like a snowy Christmas wonderland, glittering with frosted lights and twinkling trees — even though it’s late May. Turns out they’re filming a TV series called 12.12.12, starring Anthony Mackie (yes, that Anthony Mackie). We could see him walking around the set a few times between takes, but most of the filming was roped off behind barriers, so it was mostly glimpses and overheard directions. Still, not every day you casually watch Hollywood in action from your window.

We headed out for dinner at Frici Papa, a casual Hungarian joint that felt a bit more local and less tourist-priced than where we’d eaten the day before. I ordered the mushroom goulash with mashed potatoes — rich, earthy, and comforting — and chased it with a Nutella crêpe and a strong coffee. Ted had a classic chicken and vegetable soup, which he rated pretty highly. The place was busy but service was fast, and the food hit the spot without the usual hit to the wallet. Some of the dishes’ names were lost in translation though, such as “Boiled Smoked Clod” and “Dumps with nut and vanilla sauce.” 😄

After dinner, we took a tram out to Heroes’ Square to stretch our legs and soak in a bit more of the city before wrapping up the day. The square was dramatic and mostly empty by then, which made it even more impressive — statues of Hungarian leaders towering under moody skies. We wandered into the parkland behind it, discovering the grounds of Vajdahunyad Castle — a mix of Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque architecture that felt straight out of a fairy tale. The place was mostly quiet apart from a few ducks and late-evening strollers. A peaceful wind-down from a packed day.

By the time we got back, the movie set was still filming. Same scene. Same lights. Same snow. Whatever it is they’re working on, they’re definitely taking it seriously.

Time to start packing again — tomorrow we fly to Milan, and a whole new vibe awaits.Okumaya devam et