Day 11

We kicked off the day with a 5:50 a.m. alarm in Kraków to finish packing, and our surly Uber driver (clearly not a morning person) whisked us off to the airport. We dropped our bags quickly and were on our way — though not before nearly fainting at the cost of two coffees and croissants: 97 złoty, or about $37 AUD. That’s one way to wake up fast.

Our flight took us via Warsaw, where we changed planes — or rather, stayed on the plane, since it was the same aircraft and crew for the Budapest leg. After a short 40-minute wait, we reboarded. Before taking off again, I grabbed a “crewfie” with one of the flight attendants (handsome, naturally — I work in the same field, after all, it’s practically professional networking!).

After landing in Budapest, we hopped on the 100E express bus straight into the heart of the city — a cheap and seamless ride that set the tone nicely. Budapest immediately struck us as grander and more open than both Warsaw and Kraków. Monumental boulevards, historic buildings, and that shimmering Danube cutting right through it all. You can feel its layered history just walking down the street.

We checked into Pal’s Hostel and Apartments, though our place is completely separate from the main hostel. It’s spacious, with tall windows, parquet floors, antique furniture, and a direct view of St. Stephen’s Basilica. When we arrived, the square below was buzzing — crews were actually setting up for a film shoot right outside our window. Not a bad welcome.

Feeling pretty wiped from travel, we wandered down to Molnár’s Lángos for a late lunch. Lángos, if you haven’t tried it, is deep-fried dough — basically Hungary’s take on pizza. Mine came loaded with shredded cheese, while Ted went for the sausage-topped version. Molnár’s hit us like a carb-loaded cannonball: hot, chewy, cheesy, and… let’s just say we were glad for the walk afterward. Delicious? Absolutely. Regretful? Slightly. There’s only so much oil one man can take.

We set off on foot along the Danube promenade, enjoying the fresh air and views. We stopped for a beer at Spoon the Boat — an actual floating restaurant — before heading to one of Budapest’s most moving landmarks: Shoes on the Danube.

This memorial, a line of iron shoes sculpted right on the riverbank, commemorates the Hungarian Jews who were executed by Arrow Cross militiamen during WWII. Each pair marks where victims were lined up and shot — forced to remove their shoes first, since footwear had value even in death. It’s hauntingly quiet, even with the city bustling nearby. Some visitors had left flowers, candles, or stones in the shoes. A few silent minutes there was unavoidable. It’s one of those places that says everything without needing to speak.

From there, we circled around to Liberty Square, home to a controversial monument about the Nazi occupation. The official statue shows Hungary as an innocent victim — but nearby protest displays tell another story: one of complicity, cover-ups, and the voices of survivors. The surrounding posters, photos, and pebbles placed by civilians add real weight.

We grabbed groceries nearby (I was genuinely craving a salad — a rare event for a half-German bloke who rarely eats anything leafy), and rested at the apartment for a while. As golden hour hit, we jumped on one of Budapest’s iconic yellow trams toward Gellért Hill.

After climbing what felt like 200+ steps, we reached the Liberty Statue — sadly fenced off for renovations. Still, the views from the hillside lookout were incredible. Even behind scaffolding, the statue stood tall: originally erected to mark liberation from Nazi forces, now a broader symbol of Hungarian freedom through turbulent times.

From the top, Budapest stretched out beneath us: the Parliament glowing across the Danube, spires dotting the skyline, boats sliding like clockwork along the water. One of the most scenic views we’ve had.

On the way up, we passed the grand Hotel Gellért — a stunning old building under heavy restoration — and the church built into the rock face, understated outside but fascinating.

After descending, we crossed the Chain Bridge, which was beautifully lit up at night. No buskers or crowds — just a gentle flow of people soaking up the calm evening air. It was one of those rare city moments that feels both cinematic and personal.

To cap off the day, we looped back to the Parliament Building, now fully illuminated. It genuinely took our breath away — the kind of view you try (and fail) to capture with your phone. Framed against the night sky, it looked like something out of a storybook.

First impressions? Budapest is bold, beautiful, and effortlessly walkable — a city that doesn’t try too hard to impress but totally succeeds anyway. Ted’s first time, my second — and already, it’s showing us both something new.Weiterlesen