Day 29

I woke up moderately early, around 7 a.m., and checked my phone to see that Ted had arrived safely in Hong Kong via Bangkok. Although he hadn’t gotten much sleep, he was still feeling chipper—just waiting until he could check into his hotel. It had been pouring in Bangkok, but thankfully things were clearer in Hong Kong. Interestingly, Heddi told me it had also been raining nonstop in Finland before I arrived, and my cousins in Germany said something similar before we got there. Maybe we’re bringing the sunshine with us wherever we go?

Once everyone was up, Heddi, Freja, and I had breakfast together before heading out for a walk in nearby Central Park in Espoo. This peaceful green expanse is a mix of forest trails, winding paths, and small lakes—like nature snuck into the middle of suburbia. It’s a favourite spot for locals to walk their dogs, cycle, or even take part in forest yoga classes, which Heddi said have become quite popular. I made the mistake of wearing jeans, assuming the weather would be cooler—it wasn’t. So after a long walk, I was grateful to return and switch into shorts. While Finland may not be as warm as some of our other stops, it’s definitely still summer here.

Later in the morning, Heddi had planned a visit to the Gallen-Kallela Museum, and Pentti kindly dropped us off. The museum is located in Tarvaspää, by the shore of Laajalahti Bay. It was once the home and studio of renowned Finnish painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela, known for his work inspired by the Finnish national epic, The Kalevala. The building itself is a striking mix of medieval, romantic, and national romantic styles—almost like a small fairytale castle nestled among the trees.

We met Heddi’s friend Johanna there, someone I first met on my original trip to Finland in 1996—and again in 1997 and 2014. (The three of us even took a Boxing Day train trip to Rovaniemi together in ’97!) It was great to see her again and reminisce about our shared adventures.

Before our museum visit, we had lunch at the Tarvaspää Café, located next to the museum outside a charming wooden villa with lake views. I had two traditional Finnish treats: a creamy lohikeitto (salmon and potato soup) and a delicious slice of mansikkakakku (strawberry cake). The soup was comforting and rich, and the cake—layered with sponge, cream, and glazed strawberries—tasted as summery as it looked.

Our English-speaking guide, Vilma, gave us a wonderful tour of the museum. She shared that Gallen-Kallela was not only a painter but also designed many of the furnishings in his home, blending art and architecture into one cohesive vision. His works often drew from mythology and national identity, and the museum features original sketches, paintings, and personal artefacts that shed light on his creative process.

Afterward, we wandered down to the lake for a quiet, tranquil moment. It was one of those peaceful little pauses that felt especially welcome after the fast pace of the past four weeks. Johanna kindly drove us back to Heddi and Pentti’s home, where we enjoyed a relaxed evening.

Later, we walked over to Heddi’s dad’s nearby house to help get things ready for his 80th birthday celebration tomorrow. It was great to see him again, and I also caught up with Heddi’s younger sister, Ninni—it’s been since 2014, so definitely a long-overdue reunion. Nice to reconnect before what’s bound to be a big day.

When we returned, Pentti had cooked a fantastic dinner: salmon with vegetables and a pasta salad on the side. Exactly what we needed after the day’s activities.

It looks like I’ll be on the early flight to Frankfurt on Monday, which means a pre-4 a.m. wake-up. Trying to call it an early night tonight—though we’ll see how that goes.

All in all, a beautiful day full of art, nostalgia, and the peaceful rhythm of Finnish summer.Leia mais