Surprise, surprise!

What a day! To break our long journey from Ayutthaya to the very UNtouristy Kamphaeng Phet, (planned only to break the even longer journey to the Burmese border), we called in to Nakhon Sawan, where the origins of the Chao Phraya are advertised for miles on the AHI.

There was supposed to be a monument there. Google maps navigated us into the town on a modern road that passes the university and a series of small lakes and then down a muddy track fringed by modest homes and not much else. And suddenly there were a few snack bars and an official in a prefab office who signed us in. The monument was an amazing piece of architecture in honour of the greatest river in Thailand. We were gobsmacked!

After a brief visit to the banana market on the edge of Kamphaeng Phet town, which also sells brooms and basketwork and plants and pottery, where we watched crisps and banana chips being made and bought a couple of bags to keep the business going, we found our boutique hotel and quickly signed in.

There was just enough time to drive to the historical park and photograph a few chedis and three gorgeous Buddhas before the sun went down. We finished the evening in a fantastic restaurant on the banks of the River Mae Ping, where we enjoyed the most delicious meal for 17 EUR including 2 huge bottles of Singha beer.

We hadn't expected much of a day at all, but this country is full of surprises.Read more