Venice to Dubrovnik cycling

A cycling adventure down the western side of the Adriatic following the influence of the Venetian empire. Read more

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Trip start
September 20, 2023
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Day 1
Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 3:00 PM
☀️ 39 °C
Altitude: 10 m
United Arab Emirates Aş Şafā 25.185623, 55.25821325°11’8” N 55°15’30” E
Dallying in Dubai
September 20, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C
Landed in Dubai for an 18hr stopover.

Temperature sitting at 41°C so happy to get to the hotel.

It was definitely not the weather for a hop on hop off bus tour, so after freshening up I went to check out the Dubai Mall.

This is truly shopping on steroids - I lasted precisely 50 minutes before needing to escape this retail nightmare.

I did get to view some interesting art installations as well as the towering Burj Khalifa -with 160 floors dominating all the other skyscrapers.

Back at the Marriott I passed a much more pleasant 2 hours in the swimming pool.Read more
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Day 2
Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 3:00 PM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Italy Parco giochi pubblico 45.41478, 12.37142145°24’53” N 12°22’17” E
Venice
September 21, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Arrived Venice late afternoon, then ferry to my accommodation on the Lido and my first task was reassembling my bike. I’m getting better at this - even reattaching the derailleur and handlebars was successful.

Dinner was a lovely but messy seafood pasta! Met a few of the other tour participants.Read more
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Day 3
Friday, September 22, 2023 at 11:00 AM
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Italy Arsenale 45.436557, 12.35191645°26’12” N 12°21’7” E
Venturing in Venice
September 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The Venice Architecture Biennale was on, so I spent the day visiting the exhibits in the Arsenale and the Pavilions in the Giardino. The theme was ‘The Laboratory of the Future’. Some of the installations were thought provoking whilst others were just a little too esoteric for me.Read more
TravelerLove the hands. Here - Saturday morning, sadly looking at the cryptic crossword.
9/29/23Reply
Looks intriguing! [Jane]
9/30/23Reply
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Day 4
Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 11:00 AM
☁️ 21 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Italy Piazza San Marco 45.434188, 12.33813145°26’3” N 12°20’17” E
So can you cycle in Venice?
September 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
So the tour begins - but first a fascinating walk around Venice with Enrico. Extra special to meet up with him as he was one of the amazing Bike Odyssey guides on my 4 week Morocco, Spain & Portugal trip.

After an afternoon of history and fun facts and an excellent lunch I watched the sun set on the Adriatic whilst on the ferry from Venice to Piran, Slovenia.Read more
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Day 5
Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Slovenia Slovenia Ferry Port 45.5281, 13.5667445°31’41” N 13°34’0” E
Pottering around Piran
September 24, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Distance: 32 km. Total elevation: 450m

Despite the overcast weather I started my day with a swim in the sea - I forgot how clear & super buoyant the water is in the Adriatic & Mediterranean seas.

A loop ride today to test the bikes. Climbed up into the hills behind Piran and then through a couple of tunnels (up to 550m long) which were railways dismantled by Mussolini and now used as bike trails.

Lunch stop at Gramona Farm for tasting the wonderful Istrian produce & olive oils.

Post ride I had time to explore picturesque Piran, a well preserved historical town that sits at the tip of a narrow peninsula with lots of Venetian Gothic architecture. In fact the bell tower is a miniature version of the San Marco campanile.Read more
You went for a swim in the sea???? [Jane]
9/30/23Reply
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Day 6
Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:03 AM
☀️ 12 °C
Altitude: 139 m
Croatia Motovun 45.331257, 13.82412145°19’53” N 13°49’27” E
Piran to Motovun
September 25, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Distance: 70 km. Total elevation: 1,274 m

Tough morning with lots of nasty pinches (14% & more). But glorious weather and scenery. You could see the various snow capped mountain ranges in the distance - even the Dolomites.

Although we had our passports, they recently abolished the border control between Slovenian & Croatia so we didn’t need to pause on the well earned downhill!

Motovun is a classic hilltop town, cobbled streets, old walls & great views but of course this means the ride ends with a 4km 9% climb!Read more
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Day 7
Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 14 °C
Altitude: 253 m
Croatia Motovun 45.337315, 13.82936545°20’14” N 13°49’46” E
Motovun Loop
September 26, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
Distance: 45 km. Total elevation: 925 m

Hello legs … a 3km 10% start to the day, followed by a lovely roll along the ridge line. Then a very sketchy descent into the valley before the inevitable climb out. Tough pinches - including a couple at 21%. However all pain was forgotten after our amazing lunch at the truffle farm in Paladini.

Ivana was a wonderful host explaining everything about truffle hunting. The village has 43 people but 115 truffle hunting dogs. She is the youngest female truffle hunter (only 26) as most young people aren’t interested in this profession anymore. She has 11 dogs, including the traditional Lagotta Romagnolo, a Labrador, cocker spaniels, a shorthair pointer and her newest trainee - a Dalmatian puppy.

We had the experienced Labrador, Lila, together with a trainee dog, Istra, on our forest excursion. Lela located 2 black truffles about the size of walnuts whilst Istra did lots of sniffing & scrabbling but was more interested in having fun.

Dinner at the hotel - possibly the best pasta dish I have ever had - Tortellini cacio e pepe.Read more
Pretty! [Jane]
10/3/23Reply
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Day 8
Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 80 m
Croatia Vozilići 45.157491, 14.16471545°9’27” N 14°9’53” E
Motovun to Plomin
September 27, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Distance: 75 km. Total elevation: 1,350 m

Today’s descriptive adjectives: tough, character building, extreme gradients, insanely pretty countryside, narrow backroads, tiny villages, hot.

Really a day of everything! Naturally it started with a 5km climb averaging around 8% then a beautiful rolling cruise along the ridge top.

A number of us elected to ride the alternate route to see a waterfall - but the innocent looking climb turned into a cruel test of the legs with multiple 18-21% kickers. And the waterfall wasn’t running!

So relieved when I got to lunch - this was the hardest and most challenging ride I have ever done.Read more
wow that sounds tough for sure! [Jane]
10/3/23Reply
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Day 9
Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Croatia Luka Rovenska 44.532149, 14.45525144°31’56” N 14°27’19” E
Plomin to Mali Lošinj
September 28, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Distance: 98 km. Total elevation: 1,500 m

Ferry over to the island of Cres, the largest of the 718 Croatian islands to cycle the length of it. It has a reputation of ghosts & griffons - ghosts because of desertion of so many of the villages since WWII and griffons allude to the magnificent vultures who nest on the cliffs.

Striking scenery with some very steep roads - known as ‘Communist Roads’ - no switchbacks - just straight up.

A lovely day, ending with a magnificent hotel, swim in the sea and an extraordinary visit to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. This museum was built to solely showcase a single artifact - a bronze statue of an athlete recovered from the seabed, and meticulously restored over a decade.Read more
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Day 10
Friday, September 29, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Croatia The Greeting to the Sun 44.117416, 15.22223844°7’3” N 15°13’20” E
Mali Lošinj to Zadar
September 29, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Travel Day

An early ferry took us back to the mainland and we had the afternoon to explore Zadar. This is a the urban centre of northern Dalmatia. It was almost razed during WWII, but the handful of old buildings that survived are beautiful examples of centuries of Mediterranean architectural influence.

Some interesting modern installations - the sea organ - an experimental musical instrument mounted beneath the promenade and played by the waves of the sea. It’s quite a haunting sound - I wonder what the marine life make of it?

Salutations to the Sun is a large area of tiny solar panels that collect energy during the day, and at night provide a colourful light show as well as powering the promenade lights.

In the evening I skipped the walking tour of the old city, and instead went to a Banksy exhibition (mostly his early work) - so it wasn’t quite a as interesting as I had hoped.

I also indulged in my first bit of retail therapy on the trip - NOT a fridge magnet (as suggested by Murray) but a summery linen dress.Read more
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Day 11
Saturday, September 30, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Croatia Uvala Vurnaža 43.722187, 15.89641643°43’20” N 15°53’47” E
Zadar to Sibenik
September 30, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Distance: 63 km. Total elevation: 500 m

A really cruisy day, hopping on an early ferry to cycle the length of the island of Ugljan before another ferry back to the mainland and into Sibenik.

Another stunning hotel, time to swim in the pool (cold) have an Aperol Spritz and an excellent dinner.Read more
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Day 12
Sunday, October 1, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 126 m
Croatia Rupe 43.894924, 15.97137543°53’42” N 15°58’17” E
Sibenik to Krka National Park
October 1, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Distance: 46 km. Total elevation: 650 m

A rolling route through back roads & small villages got us to Krka National Park. It wasn’t all easy cycling as the line of spinning wind turbines were a good forewarning of the headwind to come!

The park is known for its picturesque waterfalls and it was a pleasant shady walk along the boardwalks.Read more
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Day 13
Monday, October 2, 2023 at 7:00 AM
☀️ 20 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Croatia Hvar Ferry Port 43.173013, 16.44103443°10’23” N 16°26’28” E
Split - Rest Day
October 2, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Some rest - but also things to do! An early morning swim, an excellent tour around Diocletian’s Palace and general investigation of the old town.
TravelerOld town looks lovely
10/3/23Reply
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Day 14
Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 7:55 AM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 26 m
Croatia Hvar Ferry Port 43.173271, 16.43433543°10’24” N 16°26’4” E
1
Split to Hvar
October 3, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Distance: 46 km. Total elevation: 650 m

Ferry to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, then a figure 8 route across the length of the island, finishing in the beautiful 13th century port town of Hvar.

Stunning day - followed the road that hugged the coastline from Stari Grad to the pretty towns of Otok and Jesla right on the water. Then past olive groves, grape vines and shaded pine plantations. Then a superb 10km climb with a steady 6% gradient but with a kicker at the end.

A swim off the beach (warmest water yet), then pizza & red wine was a fitting end to an excellent day.Read more
Traveler And that scenery looks gorgeous
10/3/23Reply
TravelerWow wow. That trip came up quickly. Enjoy
10/5/23Reply
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Day 15
Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 7:04 AM
☀️ 21 °C
Altitude: 8 m
Croatia Brkat 42.961416, 16.7153542°57’41” N 16°42’55” E
Hvar Sunrise Loop
October 4, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Distance: 25 km. Total elevation: 600 m

Absolutely worth getting out of bed for! A steady climb up through the gorge before the heat of the day and the early light making the views picture perfect.

The post ride swim was glorious - the Med/Adriatic is extra salty due to the high evaporation rate and so it feels like you are like a cork bobbing in water.

Time to explore Hvar - a really attractive port town with the old fort dominating the hillside with great views down into town, the plaza and the church. The church was full - a lengthy funeral service was in progress for an emeritus bishop. Lots of church dignitaries in their robes and beautiful singing from the full choir.

Then another ferry to catch - this one taking us to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula.Read more
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Day 16
Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 7:08 PM
🌙 22 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Croatia Kocula Ferry Port 42.956066, 17.1396942°57’22” N 17°8’23” E
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Vela Luka to Korcula
October 5, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Distance: 70 km. Total elevation: 995 m

Four fabulous climbs (I can’t believe I actually said that!). Back roads, vineyards, olive groves, turquoise bays, beaches, steep cliffs - today ticked all the boxes. A really wonderful day on the bike, lunch a winery (with tasting).

Having cycled the length of the island we finished in the town of the same name - Korcula - at a lovely hotel on the beach - perfect for a refreshing swim!

Pre dinner we had a really interesting tour of the old town. Due to its strategic location it was one of the important and wealthy Venetian naval settlements played a key part in controlling the maritime trade.Read more
Looks lovely!! [jane]
10/6/23Reply
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Day 17
Friday, October 6, 2023 at 7:00 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 11 m
Croatia Strinčera 42.836952, 17.69678742°50’13” N 17°41’48” E
Korcula to Ston
October 6, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Distance: 60 km. Total elevation: 902 m

Early ferry to the mainland. An interesting high cloud formation for most of the day. Nice coastal road before the big climb to our picnic lunch. Then a rewarding inland downhill and a sneaky tunnel which opened up to amazing vistas of the Dalmatian coast.

Explored the old city of Ston which has a series of well preserved defensive stone walls. Originally over 7km (now around 5km remain), they were built in the 14th century to protect the precious salt pans that contributed to Dubrovnik's wealth, and are still being worked today.

Ston is also renowned for its ‘Ston Cake’ - which we had to try. It’s an interesting combination of almonds, walnuts, penne pasta, cinnamon & chocolate.Read more
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Day 18
Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 7:58 AM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 30 m
Croatia Uvala Danče 42.645467, 18.09058342°38’44” N 18°5’26” E
1 1
Dubrovnik Loop
October 7, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Distance: 26 km. Total elevation: 505 m

A sunrise loop ride up to the top of Mt Srd which dominates the hill behind Dubrovnik. 19kms flat then a 10km climb with some ‘keep you honest’ sections of 18% in the last kilometer.

Great ride- and even more memorable as Lizzie has joined me for a few days of R&R and she did the ride (with e-assist)!

Post ride breakfast, swim & bike disassembly & packing before a truly lazy day in this most gorgeous hotel.Read more
TravelerWell done. Hi Lizzie!
10/7/23Reply
Wow how lovely! [Jane]
10/9/23Reply
Great photo! [Jane]
10/9/23Reply
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Trip end
October 8, 2023