• 17. Broome - End of the Tour!

    September 10 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    We made it to Broome - yay! It is here we will say our goodbyes to all of our new friends. What a wonderful privilege it was to meet and travel with all of them.

    Arriving Wed eve, I spent all day Thurs catching up on this blog. (With a bottle of wine). Friday we rented a 4WD car to head out to Willie's Pearl Farm for a tour about Broome's pearling industry, followed by a trip to Gantheaume Point on the SW corner of Broome. The point surprised us with the vibrant colors of the rock, the white sand at Cable Beach to the north, and the stunning turquoise blue Indian Ocean.

    While the pearl tour was interesting, what captured my attention most was the comment that the nacre (otherwise known as mother of pearl) which is the glossy white stuff on the inside of the shell, is being tested as potential bone graft material. Apparently it is currently with the FDA for evaluation. This would allow bone supplementation without taking bone material from another part of a person's body. Perhaps instead of pulling that tooth in my mouth that has lost too much bone around it to support it, we can just inject some nacre?

    Saturday we say our goodbyes to Broome and fly to Perth.
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  • 16. Tunnel Creek (Dimalurru)

    September 10 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    Many of our excursions have introduced us to the various gorges, swimming holes and waterfalls that the Kimberly is known for, but today was a special treat as we visited Tunnel Creek. TC is an extensive limestone cave system extending 750 m underground, with occasional sunlight streaming through ceiling crevices, bats hanging out overhead, enormous stalactites pointing down at you (kinda menacingly) from the ceiling, and even the unexpected welcoming committee - a croc!

    We had to wade in water up to our chests to get to the end, but it was a super fun experience.

    But the fun didn't end there. When we got back to the truck, someone (thankfully) noticed an issue with one of the truck tires (before it blew out while we were driving). Wolfie's happiness just seriously tanked.
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  • 15. Bell Gorge & Windjana Camp

    September 9 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Windjana Camp was the last camping night of our trip - yay! (Did I say that out loud?)

    We stopped along the way to collect firewood for our first campfire tonight.

    We also hiked out to Bell Gorge to enjoy more swimming under the falls. Just before dinner we also strolled through part of the Windjana park (& saw another croc!)Read more

  • 13. Boabs, et. al.

    September 6 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    The boab tree (aka boabab in Africa) has a distinctive swollen trunk with sparse branches that is said to appear upside down, as if its branches should really be its roots. Also sometimes called a bottle tree, it is an iconic symbol of the Kimberly (as well as that of certain parts of Africa).

    We saw a lot more of them here in Western Australia than in Africa. They come in all shapes, sizes and ages. A few pix here
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  • 12. El Questro Station & Emma Gorge

    September 6 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    El Questro Station is an outback retreat sprawling across 700,000 acres of wilderness.

    Set along the banks of the Pentecost River, it was originally established as a cattle station in the early 1900s, then transformed in the 1990s into a pioneering wilderness resort that helped upgrade outback travel and redefine itself as an eco-tourism destination.

    We took a mild one hour walk to Emma Gorge, a tranquil pool fed by a thin waterfall, and enjoyed a refreshing swim.

    And, we got a HUGE treat tonight when our guides announced there were pre-erected tents for us at the campsite. Decadence!!
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  • 11. Purnululu NP, Bungle Bungles

    September 3 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Heading south we made our way to Purnululu National Park, home of the famous Bungle Bungles, and did 2 spectacular walks there through Echidna Chasm and Cathedral Gorge. Not sure the pix will do justice.

    The Bungle Bungles are a maze of beehive-shaped sandstone domes striped in vivid orange and black. These formations, said to have been formed 250-275 million years ago when active faults altered the landscape, were further sculpted over the years by wind and water.

    The Echidna Chasm walk takes you through a dramatic narrow gorge whose golden colors change as sunlight filters through the gaps.

    The Cathedral Gorge walk leads you to a natural amphitheater which was carved into the sandstone by seasonal floods. Despite the number of people visiting here, there is a quiet sense of reverence among attendees.

    The experience here was quite beautiful, but the price you pay is a camping area with no facilities save a porta potty and a hose hook-up.
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  • 10. Lake Argyle & Crocs

    September 2 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We crossed the border from the Northern Territory to Western Australia on our way to Lake Argyle, a man-made yet gorgeous lake with a surface area of 700 sq km. There we took an entertaining boat ride on the lake, enjoying rock wallaby sightings, spitting fish, and fresh water CROCS!

    I don't remember the name of our guide, but his adorable dog & our mascot for the trip, was Argy.

    The spitting fish story: If you hold something over the side of the boat and the fish perceive it to be food, they'll hover under you & spit water at the object, trying to dislodge it from your hands. Hilarious. My phone got a bath during this process.
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  • 9. Katherine, Nitmiluk NP

    September 1 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Our first day on tour took us to Nitmiluk National Park, where we hiked up to Edith Falls to take a refreshing swim in the water.

    Well, some of us did. Others of us didn't quite prepare properly (bathing suit was buried in my luggage in the back of the truck), so I found some rocks in the shade and lived vicariously through my tourmates experiences. Lesson learned.

    My less than stellar kick-off to the tour extended itself when we arrived at our camp & started setting up. This evening would be my first exposure to "swag" camping. We had googled this before our trip, but didn't quite understand the logistics, and since the tour description said tents available, we didn't pay it much attention. Apparently swags can vary a bit, but ours were basically oversized canvas sleeping bags with a built-in cushioned mat, into which you stuff your own sleeping bag & a pillow. The head of the swag is larger & looser so you could pull it over your head.

    So, no tent? No.

    No privacy? No.

    Where do you put your bag & your stuff? On the ground next to you. With the ants & spiders and other unidentified creepy-crawlies. Those of you who know my arachnophobia can imagine, (and probably have a good laugh over) my horror.

    Where do you change your clothes? In the shared bathroom facilities (if they exist), or in your sleeping bag, or, once you get frustrated enough, you just change out in the open. Ain't nothing to see that any of us hasn't seen before. Vanity & modesty have no place with this style of travel.

    I wasn't quite prepared for this, but, when everyone else is doing it, you just do it too. Swallow hard and SMILE.

    Swag camping. A new "first" for me!
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  • 8. "The Kimberely" Tour

    September 1 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    The Kimberely is a wilderness region in the NW corner of Australia covering 160-165 K sq miles. Although roughly the size of California, it boasts a population of 40,000, half of which are indigenous. 4 people per sq mile? Sweet.

    Because this area is rugged and remote with limited internet connectivity, minimal services (except for strategically placed high-end glamping resorts) and few paved roads, we decided to take a guided tour through this region. Our 10 day tour has us travelling by overlanding truck (short for rugged vehicle with limited shock absorbers), camping under the stars (short for sleeping with no mattress and no a/c in hot humid conditions) and engaging in the "participatory" nature of the tour (short for helping with cooking and cleaning).

    All tongue in cheek. Truthfully, I love this style of travel and have expectations of an unforgettable experience.

    Off we go with limited connectivity. Will catch up on posts when I can.
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  • 7. Last Day in Darwin

    August 31 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    Our last night in Darwin involved packing for our tour & treating ourselves to a "seafood tower" dinner.

    Wandering the area before that, I ran into a demonstration (very peaceful compared to the burning tires and road blockages that are used in South America), and chatted with some of the locals about their cause. This demonstration was apparently happening across the country, and was in objection to excessive immigration, the special visas granted by the gov't to allow it, and the corresponding drain on resources (to support the immigrants) that would otherwise be used for Australian citizens.

    Sound familiar?
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  • 6. Size Matters?

    Aug 31–Sep 6 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Did you know...

    - that while Australia is huge, its not quite as big as the US, with relative size of 2.99 vs 3.6 million sq miles. US is the 4th largest country in the world & Australia the 6th. (Caveat - believe it or not, different sources rank the countries differently. I think some of it has to do with evaluating land + water, or land only, though I can't account for total area calculations being different)

    - that Australia is divided into 8 parts: 6 are states and 2 are territories. See pic #2 in this post.

    States (New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia, Queensland, Southern Australia & Tasmania) have their own constitutions and are largely self-governing.

    Territories (Northern Territory & Capital Territory, which is the tiny spot where Canberra is located), are subject to federal gov't authority.
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  • 5. Darwin - WWII

    August 30 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    We visited the Military Museum in Darwin (also referred to as “Defense of Darwin”), where there was a heavy focus on the Japanese bombing of Darwin in February 1942.

    Although small and relatively undeveloped, Darwin was strategically significant to the war in that its harbor and airfields played a crucial role in supporting Allied operations in the region. Japanese military planners believed that crippling Darwin would weaken Allied resistance and buy time for Japan to consolidate its gains.

    “On February 19, 1942, (2+ months after Pearl Harbor) Japanese forces launched a large-scale attack involving 188 fighters and bombers, devastating the area and marking the first enemy assault on Australian soil during World War II. The raid was sudden and devastating. Misinterpreting the planes as American, locals carried on their routines until it was too late. Air raid sirens blared belatedly, failing to prepare the town for what was to come.”

    The focus of the museum seemed to be on how unprepared the town/base was for this completely unexpected attack, revealing “glaring vulnerabilities in Australia’s defenses”.

    I've attached a few pix, though there wasn't really much to capture.
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  • 4. Darwin - Litchfield National Park

    August 29 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    About an hour's drive south of Darwin lies the 1500 sq. km Litchfield National Park, which is known for waterfalls, swimming holes & scenic hikes. Avoiding the many tour options available, we rented a car & headed out that way. Although we found the drive through the forest to get there somewhat uninspiring, we thoroughly enjoyed hiking the area & swimming under the waterfalls.

    We detoured on the way back through Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve in search of crocs. Although that search was fruitless, it did yield my first wallaby sighting!

    Note: Wallaby vs. Kangaroo
    While both are considered "macropads", wallabies are smaller & more compact to adapt to forests & rocky terrain. Kangaroos are larger and better suited for speed and open space.
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  • 3. Darwin - Mindil Markets

    August 28 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    After our rooftop bar cocktail, Mike convinced me to fight my jet-lag by heading 2 miles to the Mindil Beach Markets. What fun! We walked through the forest along the coast chasing birds (Mike is a bit of a birder), had a Sri-Lankan dinner at the ethnically diverse foodtrucks, enjoyed some live music, and then joined 1000 or so of our new besties to watch the sunset.

    Good times.
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  • 2. Darwin - Initial Impressions

    August 28 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Despite the fact that Mike's flight from Cairns to Darwin was delayed (again & again), from a 6P arrival, to the possibility of being cancelled, to then an actual midnight arrival, we hit the ground running on our first day in Darwin. Armed with caffeine & walking shoes, we acclimated ourselves to the town with a stroll down to the waterfront, along the esplande, and through the main strip in town, before grabbing a quick swim at the hotel pool to cool off, then a drink at a rooftop bar with 360 views of the harbor.

    Darwin is the northern most city in Australia, thereby closest to the equator. There are 2 seasons in this northcentral part of the country: wet season & dry season. We are here during dry season, during which daytime temps range between 85-95 degrees with oppressive humidity . (This is dry season?) I can't imagine being here in “summer” (Dec – Feb). One of the vendors told us many businesses completely shut down in summer due to a general lack of interest in being anywhere near this place at that time of year. I asked a few year-round locals how they dealt with the oppressive heat, and the answer was usually something like "you just get used to it". Despite the inevitable incomprehensive stare they get from me, I do appreciate that this is why I travel - to appreciate cultures and thoughts that are different from your own.

    The city of Darwin is a small, walkable city, population 150K+. Its draw, seems to be not really what thr city has to offer itself, but rather its proximity to other locations. It is a gateway to a few national parks, as well as to the outback. Mike and I toodled around the city, and in our efforts to come up with one word to describe it, and I think we agreed on "unremarkable".

    Despite that, we love exploring and are having a blast!
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  • 1. Wanna check out Australia?

    August 25 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    My travel partner Mike & I met over 20 years ago playing co-ed soccer. Running into him at a bar one night, we chatted about past and future travel destinations, and the next thing you know we were planning a trip to Australia together. It got delayed several times, but after months of weekly planning meetings at my kitchen table, I'm about to board the airplane that will kick off this much anticipated journey Down Under.

    YAY!

    I'm meeting Mike in the north central city of Darwin, from where we'll kick off a counter-clockwise tour of coastal Australia. (He's already in Australia, visiting a cousin in Cairns). Our 2 month travel plan starts with a 10 day guided camping tour through "the Kimberely" to the northeast city of Broome. We're on our own from there. Key destinations include Darwin, Broome, Perth / Margaret River, Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road, Tasmania, & we'll wrap it up in Sydney.

    We have expectations of experiencing beautiful coastline, indigenous culture, local wildlife, grandiose national parks, iconic landmarks, diverse cuisine, penal colony roots, Fosters beer (although I understand wine has overtaken beer as the more popular adult beverage), & Australian rules football.

    As my tennis team captain would say, "LET'S GO!!!"
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  • 21. XC Train & Christchurch (again)

    April 28 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Leaving Queenstown we buzzed up the coast to Franz Josef, which boasts Franz Josef Glacier as its main (and possibly only) attraction. With sketchy weather & a lack of interest in seeing another glacier, Mike & I used the time to do laundry & have an impromptu meal with a NZ couple travelling in their RV.

    Another two hours' drive north found us in Greymouth, where we surrendered our car and caught the TranzAlpine Scenic train that would take us back across the country, through the southern alps, to Christchurch.

    The TranzAlpine train travels coast-to-coast through the 'Great Divide' of the alps, transversing 139 miles in just under 5 hours. (No, this is definitely not a bullet train). It is, however considered one of the world's great train journeys. The mountain range was beautiful to be sure, but based on our prior 3 weeks of stunning mountain/lake landscape views, (plus being a little travel-weary), we took it all in stride. A few pix attached.

    We had one day in Christchurch before catching our evening flight back to Auckland. We jumped on the tourist trolley for a tour of the city's architecture (an eclectic mix of the old and new) building murals and shops.
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  • 20. Lake Dunstan Mountain Biking

    April 25 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    The Lake Dunstan Hiking / Cycling Trail is a newly constructed (2021) 55km trail that runs from Smith's Way to Clyde in the south central part of South Island. The trail was an instant success, and was awarded "Great Ride" status after a year.

    We opted to skip the flat parts and do 25.5 miles from Cromwell to Clyde. Total elevation gain of 1,982 ft.

    What a beautiful ride - what a beautiful day.
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  • 19. QT - Paragliding!

    April 24 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    The first thing I saw when glancing out from the balcony of our room was the paragliders soaring like birds down from the mountain top.

    I am so doing that! 😎

    I signed up, headed up the gondola, got my marching orders and off we went. I'll let the pix tell the rest of the story.

    A super fun experience.
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  • 18. Queenstown & Wakatipu Lake

    April 23 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Our next stop is Queenstown, a charming city with an urban population of around 28,000, noted for its ski and adventure tourism. It is located on the nw corner of Wakapitu Lake which is the longest (50 mile) lake in NZ.

    We enjoyed more amazing views of mountains & Wakapitu Lake as we approached Queenstown. Once there we spent our first day strolling through the town center which is filled with street vendors, water activity options, and plenty of cute shops & restaurants. I took a kayak for a spin to get some time on the lake.
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  • 17. Milford Sound Cruise

    April 22 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    A trip to NZ cannot be complete without the proverbial cruise on the Milford Sound. One of the most famous places in NZ, the Sound is a fjord, which, by definition, is a deep inlet of the sea, surrounded by high cliffs. As with most fjords, a picturesque environment is created by majestic, almost vertical mountains, dramatic waterfalls, and, in this case, lush rainforest.

    We enjoyed our 2 hour cruise immediately after our hike. Great way to end the day.
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  • 16. Milford Sound (Hike) Track

    April 22 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    The Milford Sound Track (trail) is a popular 33 mile track located in the tropical forest of the Fjordlands in the southwest part of South Island. The scenic, rugged landscape is known for its natural beauty, making it a very popular sight-seeing and filming location. We did an 8 mile out and back portion of the trail from Sandfly Point.

    (As an fyi to those who are interested - Milford Sound and areas of Fiordland National Park were used to depict the Misty Mountains during filming of The Lord of the Rings, and the area again used extensively in The Hobbit Trilogy. )

    The trail was pretty easy, nothing like our Mt.Cook hike, offering views of pristine, unadultered nature. While the focus was on the flowing river, waterfalls, flora & fauna, one of the birds we saw was a NZ pigeon, also known as the drunk pigeon. I couldn't snap the photo fast enough, but added an online pic to this post. The pigeon is frugivorous, preferring fruit from native trees. After gorging, they sun themselves to help with digestion. This in turn causes the fruit to ferment into alcohol, intoxicating the bird. They then exhibit corresponding behavior like falling out of trees and flying into things. I kid you not! Our tour guide actually got hit in the head by one!

    A beautiful way to spend the morning on a beautiful day.
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  • 15. Stairway to Heaven - 2,200 Steps

    April 20 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Mt. Cook (cont.)

    On Sunday we donned our rain jackets and baseball caps & headed out on a cloudy drizzly day for a trek up Sealy Tarns Track, a 3.3 mile, 1791 ft elevation gain path out of Mt.Cook Village. The path is nicknamed "Stairway to Heaven" due to the 2200 stairs that are part of the path.

    Am I getting too old for this? Heck, no! The trail was taxing but really fun. I proudly accept the nickname "billy goat" that Mike has bestowed upon me.
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  • 14. Mt. Cook

    April 19 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    At 12,219 ft, Mt.Cook, located in the Canterbury region on South Island, is the highest peak in NZ, and is a popular mountaineering destination.

    Part of the fame of the area is attributed to mountaineer enthusiast Sir Edmund Hillary, a local mountaineer who summited Cook in 1947. His future fame is attributed to the distinction of being the first man to summit Everest in 1953.

    Mount Cook is known throughout the world for its alpine beauty and remoteness. At the foot of the mountain sits the village of Mount Cook where we (and everyone else who comes to this area) stayed. On every side of the village/valley, the Southern Alps scrape the sky, with Mt Cook surrounded by 22 peaks exceeding elevations of 10,000 feet.
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  • 13. Christchurch to Mt. Cook

    April 19 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    The first 2 hours of our 4 hour drive from east-coastal Christchurch heading due west gave us the rare experience of tedious flat farmland. I'm posting this a little late - we've now been through much of our journey through South Island, and I have to say when it comes to mountains & lakes, this country has some of the most spectacular landscapes I've seen. Part of the joy of it is how remote, uninhabited and even inaccessible these mountains are. We are currently in the Autumn shoulder season here, so tourism levels are moderate to low as well. Heading to NZ? I highly recommend April travel.

    About halfway through our drive, we eventually came upon the glacially formed lakes Tekapo and Pukaki. Both lakes are known for their stunning turquoise colored waters, largely attributed to their glacial tributaries. Tekapo, at 32 sq miles, is a source of hydropower for the area. Situated on the shore is the Church of the Good Shepherd, which, built in 1935, is one of the most photographed churches in NZ. Needless to say, a very popular tourist stop!

    The weather became a bit sketchy as we passed the lakes and started approaching Mt. Cook. A few pix from the road attached here.
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  • 12. Christchurch

    April 18 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Christchurch, the largest city on South Island, is our last coastal stop before heading inland.

    We're fortunate to be here on Good Friday; most NZ shops and restaurants are closed for the holiday, but the hotel clerks directed us to a hip nearby indoor marketplace that catered to tourists. Despite that, many pubs were closed, and the place we stopped for a beer (@ 3P) said that the law allowed them to serve beer only if it was accompanied by a meal. So, we ate early!Read more

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