• Karen Hechinger

Australia 2025

Et 47-dags eventyr af Karen Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    25. august 2025

    1. Wanna check out Australia?

    25. august, Forenede Stater ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    My travel partner Mike & I met over 20 years ago playing co-ed soccer. Running into him at a bar one night, we chatted about past and future travel destinations, and the next thing you know we were planning a trip to Australia together. It got delayed several times, but after months of weekly planning meetings at my kitchen table, I'm about to board the airplane that will kick off this much anticipated journey Down Under.

    YAY!

    I'm meeting Mike in the north central city of Darwin, from where we'll kick off a counter-clockwise tour of coastal Australia. (He's already in Australia, visiting a cousin in Cairns). Our 2 month travel plan starts with a 10 day guided camping tour through "the Kimberely" to the northeast city of Broome. We're on our own from there. Key destinations include Darwin, Broome, Perth / Margaret River, Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road, Tasmania, & we'll wrap it up in Sydney.

    We have expectations of experiencing beautiful coastline, indigenous culture, local wildlife, grandiose national parks, iconic landmarks, diverse cuisine, penal colony roots, Fosters beer (although I understand wine has overtaken beer as the more popular adult beverage), & Australian rules football.

    As my tennis team captain would say, "LET'S GO!!!"
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  • 2. Darwin - Initial Impressions

    28. august, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Despite the fact that Mike's flight from Cairns to Darwin was delayed (again & again), from a 6P arrival, to the possibility of being cancelled, to then an actual midnight arrival, we hit the ground running on our first day in Darwin. Armed with caffeine & walking shoes, we acclimated ourselves to the town with a stroll down to the waterfront, along the esplande, and through the main strip in town, before grabbing a quick swim at the hotel pool to cool off, then a drink at a rooftop bar with 360 views of the harbor.

    Darwin is the northern most city in Australia, thereby closest to the equator. There are 2 seasons in this northcentral part of the country: wet season & dry season. We are here during dry season, during which daytime temps range between 85-95 degrees with oppressive humidity . (This is dry season?) I can't imagine being here in “summer” (Dec – Feb). One of the vendors told us many businesses completely shut down in summer due to a general lack of interest in being anywhere near this place at that time of year. I asked a few year-round locals how they dealt with the oppressive heat, and the answer was usually something like "you just get used to it". Despite the inevitable incomprehensive stare they get from me, I do appreciate that this is why I travel - to appreciate cultures and thoughts that are different from your own.

    The city of Darwin is a small, walkable city, population 150K+. Its draw, seems to be not really what thr city has to offer itself, but rather its proximity to other locations. It is a gateway to a few national parks, as well as to the outback. Mike and I toodled around the city, and in our efforts to come up with one word to describe it, and I think we agreed on "unremarkable".

    Despite that, we love exploring and are having a blast!
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  • 3. Darwin - Mindil Markets

    28. august, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    After our rooftop bar cocktail, Mike convinced me to fight my jet-lag by heading 2 miles to the Mindil Beach Markets. What fun! We walked through the forest along the coast chasing birds (Mike is a bit of a birder), had a Sri-Lankan dinner at the ethnically diverse foodtrucks, enjoyed some live music, and then joined 1000 or so of our new besties to watch the sunset.

    Good times.
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  • 4. Darwin - Litchfield National Park

    29. august, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    About an hour's drive south of Darwin lies the 1500 sq. km Litchfield National Park, which is known for waterfalls, swimming holes & scenic hikes. Avoiding the many tour options available, we rented a car & headed out that way. Although we found the drive through the forest to get there somewhat uninspiring, we thoroughly enjoyed hiking the area & swimming under the waterfalls.

    We detoured on the way back through Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve in search of crocs. Although that search was fruitless, it did yield my first wallaby sighting!

    Note: Wallaby vs. Kangaroo
    While both are considered "macropads", wallabies are smaller & more compact to adapt to forests & rocky terrain. Kangaroos are larger and better suited for speed and open space.
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  • 5. Darwin - WWII

    30. august, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    We visited the Military Museum in Darwin (also referred to as “Defense of Darwin”), where there was a heavy focus on the Japanese bombing of Darwin in February 1942.

    Although small and relatively undeveloped, Darwin was strategically significant to the war in that its harbor and airfields played a crucial role in supporting Allied operations in the region. Japanese military planners believed that crippling Darwin would weaken Allied resistance and buy time for Japan to consolidate its gains.

    “On February 19, 1942, (2+ months after Pearl Harbor) Japanese forces launched a large-scale attack involving 188 fighters and bombers, devastating the area and marking the first enemy assault on Australian soil during World War II. The raid was sudden and devastating. Misinterpreting the planes as American, locals carried on their routines until it was too late. Air raid sirens blared belatedly, failing to prepare the town for what was to come.”

    The focus of the museum seemed to be on how unprepared the town/base was for this completely unexpected attack, revealing “glaring vulnerabilities in Australia’s defenses”.

    I've attached a few pix, though there wasn't really much to capture.
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  • 6. Size Matters?

    31. aug.–6. sep., Australien ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Did you know...

    - that while Australia is huge, its not quite as big as the US, with relative size of 2.99 vs 3.6 million sq miles. US is the 4th largest country in the world & Australia the 6th. (Caveat - believe it or not, different sources rank the countries differently. I think some of it has to do with evaluating land + water, or land only, though I can't account for total area calculations being different)

    - that Australia is divided into 8 parts: 6 are states and 2 are territories. See pic #2 in this post.

    States (New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia, Queensland, Southern Australia & Tasmania) have their own constitutions and are largely self-governing.

    Territories (Northern Territory & Capital Territory, which is the tiny spot where Canberra is located), are subject to federal gov't authority.
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  • 7. Last Day in Darwin

    31. august, Australien ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

    Our last night in Darwin involved packing for our tour & treating ourselves to a "seafood tower" dinner.

    Wandering the area before that, I ran into a demonstration (very peaceful compared to the burning tires and road blockages that are used in South America), and chatted with some of the locals about their cause. This demonstration was apparently happening across the country, and was in objection to excessive immigration, the special visas granted by the gov't to allow it, and the corresponding drain on resources (to support the immigrants) that would otherwise be used for Australian citizens.

    Sound familiar?
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  • 8. "The Kimberely" Tour

    1. september, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    The Kimberely is a wilderness region in the NW corner of Australia covering 160-165 K sq miles. Although roughly the size of California, it boasts a population of 40,000, half of which are indigenous. 4 people per sq mile? Sweet.

    Because this area is rugged and remote with limited internet connectivity, minimal services (except for strategically placed high-end glamping resorts) and few paved roads, we decided to take a guided tour through this region. Our 10 day tour has us travelling by overlanding truck (short for rugged vehicle with limited shock absorbers), camping under the stars (short for sleeping with no mattress and no a/c in hot humid conditions) and engaging in the "participatory" nature of the tour (short for helping with cooking and cleaning).

    All tongue in cheek. Truthfully, I love this style of travel and have expectations of an unforgettable experience.

    Off we go with limited connectivity. Will catch up on posts when I can.
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  • 9. Katherine, Nitmiluk NP

    1. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Our first day on tour took us to Nitmiluk National Park, where we hiked up to Edith Falls to take a refreshing swim in the water.

    Well, some of us did. Others of us didn't quite prepare properly (bathing suit was buried in my luggage in the back of the truck), so I found some rocks in the shade and lived vicariously through my tourmates experiences. Lesson learned.

    My less than stellar kick-off to the tour extended itself when we arrived at our camp & started setting up. This evening would be my first exposure to "swag" camping. We had googled this before our trip, but didn't quite understand the logistics, and since the tour description said tents available, we didn't pay it much attention. Apparently swags can vary a bit, but ours were basically oversized canvas sleeping bags with a built-in cushioned mat, into which you stuff your own sleeping bag & a pillow. The head of the swag is larger & looser so you could pull it over your head.

    So, no tent? No.

    No privacy? No.

    Where do you put your bag & your stuff? On the ground next to you. With the ants & spiders and other unidentified creepy-crawlies. Those of you who know my arachnophobia can imagine, (and probably have a good laugh over) my horror.

    Where do you change your clothes? In the shared bathroom facilities (if they exist), or in your sleeping bag, or, once you get frustrated enough, you just change out in the open. Ain't nothing to see that any of us hasn't seen before. Vanity & modesty have no place with this style of travel.

    I wasn't quite prepared for this, but, when everyone else is doing it, you just do it too. Swallow hard and SMILE.

    Swag camping. A new "first" for me!
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  • 10. Lake Argyle & Crocs

    2. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We crossed the border from the Northern Territory to Western Australia on our way to Lake Argyle, a man-made yet gorgeous lake with a surface area of 700 sq km. There we took an entertaining boat ride on the lake, enjoying rock wallaby sightings, spitting fish, and fresh water CROCS!

    I don't remember the name of our guide, but his adorable dog & our mascot for the trip, was Argy.

    The spitting fish story: If you hold something over the side of the boat and the fish perceive it to be food, they'll hover under you & spit water at the object, trying to dislodge it from your hands. Hilarious. My phone got a bath during this process.
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  • 11. Purnululu NP, Bungle Bungles

    3. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Heading south we made our way to Purnululu National Park, home of the famous Bungle Bungles, and did 2 spectacular walks there through Echidna Chasm and Cathedral Gorge. Not sure the pix will do justice.

    The Bungle Bungles are a maze of beehive-shaped sandstone domes striped in vivid orange and black. These formations, said to have been formed 250-275 million years ago when active faults altered the landscape, were further sculpted over the years by wind and water.

    The Echidna Chasm walk takes you through a dramatic narrow gorge whose golden colors change as sunlight filters through the gaps.

    The Cathedral Gorge walk leads you to a natural amphitheater which was carved into the sandstone by seasonal floods. Despite the number of people visiting here, there is a quiet sense of reverence among attendees.

    The experience here was quite beautiful, but the price you pay is a camping area with no facilities save a porta potty and a hose hook-up.
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  • 12. El Questro Station & Emma Gorge

    6. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    El Questro Station is an outback retreat sprawling across 700,000 acres of wilderness.

    Set along the banks of the Pentecost River, it was originally established as a cattle station in the early 1900s, then transformed in the 1990s into a pioneering wilderness resort that helped upgrade outback travel and redefine itself as an eco-tourism destination.

    We took a mild one hour walk to Emma Gorge, a tranquil pool fed by a thin waterfall, and enjoyed a refreshing swim.

    And, we got a HUGE treat tonight when our guides announced there were pre-erected tents for us at the campsite. Decadence!!
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  • 13. Boabs, et. al.

    6. september, Australien ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    The boab tree (aka boabab in Africa) has a distinctive swollen trunk with sparse branches that is said to appear upside down, as if its branches should really be its roots. Also sometimes called a bottle tree, it is an iconic symbol of the Kimberly (as well as that of certain parts of Africa).

    We saw a lot more of them here in Western Australia than in Africa. They come in all shapes, sizes and ages. A few pix here
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  • 15. Bell Gorge & Windjana Camp

    9. september, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Windjana Camp was the last camping night of our trip - yay! (Did I say that out loud?)

    We stopped along the way to collect firewood for our first campfire tonight.

    We also hiked out to Bell Gorge to enjoy more swimming under the falls. Just before dinner we also strolled through part of the Windjana park (& saw another croc!)Læs mere

  • 16. Tunnel Creek (Dimalurru)

    10. september, Australien ⋅ 🌬 86 °F

    Many of our excursions have introduced us to the various gorges, swimming holes and waterfalls that the Kimberly is known for, but today was a special treat as we visited Tunnel Creek. TC is an extensive limestone cave system extending 750 m underground, with occasional sunlight streaming through ceiling crevices, bats hanging out overhead, enormous stalactites pointing down at you (kinda menacingly) from the ceiling, and even the unexpected welcoming committee - a croc!

    We had to wade in water up to our chests to get to the end, but it was a super fun experience.

    But the fun didn't end there. When we got back to the truck, someone (thankfully) noticed an issue with one of the truck tires (before it blew out while we were driving). Wolfie's happiness just seriously tanked.
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  • 17. Broome - End of the Tour!

    10. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    We made it to Broome - yay! It is here we will say our goodbyes to all of our new friends. What a wonderful privilege it was to meet and travel with all of them.

    Arriving Wed eve, I spent all day Thurs catching up on this blog. (With a bottle of wine). Friday we rented a 4WD car to head out to Willie's Pearl Farm for a tour about Broome's pearling industry, followed by a trip to Gantheaume Point on the SW corner of Broome. The point surprised us with the vibrant colors of the rock, the white sand at Cable Beach to the north, and the stunning turquoise blue Indian Ocean.

    While the pearl tour was interesting, what captured my attention most was the comment that the nacre (otherwise known as mother of pearl) which is the glossy white stuff on the inside of the shell, is being tested as potential bone graft material. Apparently it is currently with the FDA for evaluation. This would allow bone supplementation without taking bone material from another part of a person's body. Perhaps instead of pulling that tooth in my mouth that has lost too much bone around it to support it, we can just inject some nacre?

    Saturday we say our goodbyes to Broome and fly to Perth.
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  • 18. Fremantle & the markets

    13. september, Australien ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    We flew without ado from Boome to Perth. Well, maybe there was a little ado.

    At the airport we discovered Mike left his jacket back with our friends staying at a hostel. We checked our bags, and had 30 minutes till boarding. The hostel was less than a mile away, so Mike called someone to grab the jacket & start walking it to the airport, while he started running towards them to collect it. You can't make this stuff up! Yes, he arrived back at the airport (winded & sweaty) in plenty of time for the flight. Haha.

    Arriving at Perth airport we easily tracked down the train to Fremantle (1 hr train ride) where we would be staying at Fremantle Prison YHA. Our trip went smoothly. The town was definitely hopping on a Saturday night as we walked the additional half mile to the hostel.

    Sunday morning we checked out the local weekend market before our afternoon prison tour.
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  • 19. Fremantle Prison tour

    14. september, Australien ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Between 1788 & 1868, more than 165,000 men, women & children were transported from Great Britian to Australia as punishment for their crimes.

    The Fremantle Prison itself was constructed by convicts between 1851 & 1859. It was Western Australia's main place of incarceration until its closure in 1991.

    Interestingly, the Swan River Colony (including the area that would become Fremantle), which was struggling in its economic growth & development, actually requested the prisoners, which were seen as a cheap source of labor for infrastructure development.

    Prison conditions during the convict era (1850s to early 1900s) were harsh & brutal, with 4'x7' cells where meals were eaten. The cells contained a hammock & bucket as toilet. Prison life included chain gang labor experiences, overcrowding, and perpetual hygiene issues.

    Prison riots & protests as well as public acknowlegment of conditions eventually gave way to prison reform & some improvement including larger cells, vegetable gardens for fresher food, and access to artistic materials for them to paint their cells & prison walls.
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  • 20. WA Maritime & Shipwreck Museums

    14. september, Australien ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    Btw - WA stands for Western Australia.

    Strolling through the city, we stopped to visit the Maritime Museum & the Shipwreck Museum. The former was pretty good & they let us old codgers in for a discounted $10 AUD (about $6.50 US). The latter requested donation only.

    We saw a submarine, fishing vessels, and the Australian boat that beat the Americans to win the America's Cup in 1983 - a very proud moment for the Aussies.
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  • 21. Rottnest Island

    15. september, Australien ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Rottnest Island, aka "Wadjemup" to the Whadjuk Noongar (indigenous) people, is a 19 sq km coastal sanctuary 18 kilometers off the coast of Fremantle. It is a nature lover's paradise, with over 60 beaches & stunning views of the Indian Ocean. The area is under administration of the WA gov't - no cars allowed (save maintenance vehicles & tour buses), and no privately held lodging (like air bnbs).

    Part of Rottnest's draw is the presence of the quokka, a small, smiley marsupial found nowhere else on Earth, which has become a beloved symbol of the island. The quokka is in fact how the island got its name. In 1656 a Dutch explorer mistakenly identified the animal as a rat, and his description "rat's nest" became Rottnest.

    We took the ferry out to the island to explore. The weather had been a bit sketchy and the seas were rough - barf bags were available and, since I'm a bit motion-sensitive I grabbed one just in case. (Not used) While the 30 minute ride left me a bit nauseous & dizzy, the weather improved and island experience was delightful. We loved the quokkas and the Indian Ocean (honestly the most beautiful ocean I've ever seen).
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  • 22.Caversham Wildlife Park (CWP) - Roos!

    17. september, Australien ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Upon arriving on the train in Perth from Fremantle, we spent a few hours checking out the area via the hop-on hop-off bus, then grabbing dinner & a cocktail. We agreed we were neither particularly impressed nor disappointed in the city of Perth, and decided on our second day here to venture north via train out to Caversham Wildlife Park.

    The day was meant to be sketchy weather-wise, (it did rain on & off all morning), but we grabbed rain jackets & hit the road. The park advertisement brochure looked like the park might be a little hokey - we were surprised at how much we enjoyed it.

    Our walk there meandered through meadows and forest, a pleasant trail where we were greeted by wild roaming kangaroos.
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  • 25. Margaret River & southern road trip

    19. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    We picked up our rental car the next day and drove the 3+ hours down to Margaret River, stopping at the small towns of Bunbury & Busselton, neither of which offered much in the way of attractions. In Bunbury we tracked down and hiked up the Rotary Lookout tower, and in Busselton we drove out the "iconic" jetty (their description, definitely not mine).

    We arrived in the cute little town of Margaret River, known for it local wineries, where we looked forward to our "Discover Margaret River Tour", which would combine canoeing, hiking, and wine tasting with a lunch. To make a long story short, after unsuccessfully trying to locate a reminder email from the tour company, I called them to confirm, only to find out they had no record of our booking. This very popular tour was sold out, so we were out of luck. Big disappointment.

    If there is any silver lining at all, the head cold that I'd been fighting off for over a week had finally taken hold of me. Our alternate plan of driving down to Augusta, the southwestern tip of Australia, allowed me to nap in the car a bit (when I wasn't coughing). This was followed the next day by the beginning of our southwest road trip, through which I slept in the car the majority of the drive time, and crashed in the hotel after a hot shower at about 4PM. Huge thanks to Mike for grabbing food & bringing it back to the hotel for me, and for being such a good guy about me kind of bailing on him for 2 days.

    We did stop on our way to Albany to explore the Tree Top Walk, which was advertised as a walkway bridge suspended 120 feet above the ground, allowing you to explore the area without affecting the eco system itself. We also strolled through the ground trail which took us through a tingle tree forest. Tingle trees apparently have a root system that allows them to keep growing despite being hollowed out by fire & fungus.

    The trails were thankfully short, and I was happy to get back in the car & close my eyes again until we reached Albany.
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  • 26. Albany - Granite Skywalk

    21. september, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I woke up feeling better today and was determined to get back in the game after 2 days of mostly rest, so, after grabbing a massive breakfast at the local diner, we drove north to Granite Skywalk to check it out.

    The Granite Skywalk is a suspended walkway perched atop Castle Rock in Western Australia's Porongurup National Park. Referred to as an engineering marvel, it offers two lookout platforms with panoramic views stretching across forests & farmland, all the way to Albany coastline 25 miles away. The hike there was a short but steep 3 km trail through the forest, that turned into a trek over & through a set of boulders before reaching the ladder that takes you to the summit.
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