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Karen Hechinger
Karen Hechinger

Karen Hechinger

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Salt flatReducing the air in the tires to make the rocky ride a little smoother and fasterOops - a little too muchThe car was turned off. There was total silence except for the wind.

    78. Bolivia - the Laguna Route

    16. November 2019 in Bolivien ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The Laguna Route is a passage from Uyuni in southwest Bolivia to San Pedro Chile, located at the North end of the Atacama Desert.

    The route is mostly sandy dirt and rocks, aptly named for the spectacular colorful lakes that you pass along the way.

    It took us about 8 hours, including one stop for lunch and to reduce the air on the tires for the ride, to get to the first lake. Here are some pix before we reached the lake.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    7500 sq. miles of nothing
    A lonely driveThe tiny salt museum1Check out our tour vehicle stick shift. In Bolivia, you always byo tp!In some places water is very close to the surfaceWater here is bubbling - never found out why...The salt hotel Playa Blanca where we had lunchOur tour group

    75. Bolivia - Salar de Uyuni

    14. November 2019 in Bolivien ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Salar de Uyuni is the world's largest salt flat. It is 7,522 sq miles, and sits at just under 12,000 feet in altitude.

    The salar is a pure white expanse of nothingness. They say when there's a little water, the surface perfectly reflects the sky and the horizon disappears.

    The salt from the flats is pretty bad for the car, so we opted for a day tour instead. It was pretty fun.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    We followed the taxi to the dirt road, but the protestors got there first
    We spoke to an indigenous woman about our optionsWe went back to the original roadblock and pulled out the mapThe locals helped us find another routeThe route included a dirt path of potholes. It was raining and muddy.The view from the road was so peaceful compared to the ride itselfA parade of locals to celebrate the end of Morales

    74. Bolivia - Roadblocks 2 & a "Coup"!

    11. November 2019 in Bolivien ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Upon reaching the manned roadblock, we lined up with other drivers who had pulled to the side of the road to assess the situation and decide what to do. A taxi driver pointed out a dirt road on the other side of a farm that we might try. We saw some cars using it to come from the opposite direction, so we and the taxi guy jumped in our cars to try to get there. Unfortunately, the protestors saw this as well, and they ran across the field to block the road before we got there. They were faster.

    We went back to the original roadblock, where Craig grabbed the map and collaborated with some of the locals on alternative routes. The problem with taking a road that is 2 hours out of your way, is that you don't know if it's blocked until you get there. But our options were limited, so we plotted a course and took off.

    The road, if you could call it that, was a rutted out dirt path that ran along a river and farmland. A brain-jarring drive for sure. It lasted for over an hour before we got to a paved road. In the end, we made it in about 2.5 hours.

    Coup d'etat!
    In the meantime, President Morales has resigned from office. Once the military and the police refused to support him against the protestors, the handwriting was on the wall. He is currently fleeing to Mexico, claiming he is not safe in Bolivia. In Oruro, the people are celebrating.

    We hear that the police are now re-engaging to remove the roadblocks, so after a day's rest, we will be back on the road tomorrow. Fingers crossed.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    The roadblocks often took the form of large mounds of dirt. A path had been cleared on the left
    Sometimes it was rocks and dirt. We had to veer off the road to pass this oneThis one looks like a concrete stantionThe other side was impassable, so the opposite direction traffic was crossing to our sideShare the road!The roadblocks showed up every few milesThis blockade is "manned". Rocks, dirt, and burning tire. To run it would be too risky & dangerous

    73. Bolivia - Roadblocks 1

    10. November 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    After crossing the border, we avoided our original destination of the capital of La Paz, which was full of political demonstrators and roadblocks, and headed for El Tholar. Unfortunately, we got stuck at multiple roadblocks, and our 7 hour drive turned into a 12 hour drive as we pursued an increasingly circuitous route as we attempted to find open roads.

    Our second day's drive was more of the same. As we headed south, we were able to run through many of the blockades that had been partially dismantled before our luck ran out. We were about 20 miles from our destination of Oruro, when we came upon a "manned" roadblock, meaning there was a bunch of protestors who had not only blocked both sides of the highway with rocks, but were standing there burning tires as well. If you attempt to run a manned roadblock, you will likely get rocks thrown at the car or worse.

    Continued...    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Arriving in Puno, our first view of Lake Titicaca
    Lake Titicaca is in both Peru and BoliviaAdios Peru...Hola Bolivia!Busy street market at the border

    72. Border Crossing to Bolivia

    10. November 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    The border crossing to Bolivia was relatively uneventful. We stayed the night before in Puno, located on Lake Titicaca, which, at 12,506 feet, is the world's biggest navigable body of water. It has 699 miles of shoreline.

    Bolivia is one of the poorest countries in South America. There are a minimum number of paved roads, substandard housing abounds, and the cities are dirty with buildings of peeling paint, crumbling walls, and unsecure tin rooves. Graffiti everywhere.

    More importantly, the country is in the middle of a political crisis. Recent presidential elections declared Evo Morales, the incumbent who forced a change to the Constitution to bypass term limits rules, the winner, amidst claims of massive election fraud. Protestors have taken to the streets creating roadblocks throughout much of the country.

    This was not unknown to us. We've been following the news, keeping up with US Embassy updates, and had a discussion with the Bolivian consulate in Peru. We have changed our plans to omit many of the cities and sites we had on our itinerary, and are now focused on getting to Uyuni, where we pick up the Laguna Trail. The trail is completely off the beaten path, so hopefully it is not the focus of political protestors.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Machu Picchu city is nestled between 2 mountains: Huayna Picchu (larger) and Machu Picchu
    The city has many cascading retaining walls to protect against erosionThe drop down to the Urubamba River is 1480 scary feetDoorways were built with wider openings at the bottom for stabilityClouds roll in and out all dayLots of llamas meandering around

    69. Peru - Machu Picchu

    7. November 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    As you may know, Machu Picchu is an Incan citadel built in the 15th century in the Andes mountains of Peru. It is located on a mountain ridge almost 8000 feet high, and is an iconic representation of the Incan people.

    Although it was built in 1450, it remained unknown to most of the world until discovered in 1911. It is now an UNESCO World Heritage site and was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007. It accommodates about 1.5 million visitors each year.

    The city was built for the ruling leaders of the Incan people. The work was done by farmers, who, since they had no money, paid their taxes via 2-3 months of govt labor each year.

    Our 3 hour tour started an hour late, which turned out to be fortuitous as the morning's pouring rain reduced to a drizzle and then just mist as we proceeded through the tour.

    MP is really cool. While I confess to lacking the anthropological zeal that Craig has for the ruins, I was awestruck by the engineering feat accomplished at this altitude, as well as the stunning beauty of a city nestled in the misty mountain setting. I give it a "yes" vote for your bucket list.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    The Voyager
    The mountains are really steep - we could often see them from the windows on the roofThe train ride followed the Urubamba River...past dozens of farms...Cascading retaining walls are quite common to prevent erosionCoca tea from coca leaves helps with altitude sickness. And its yummy!We made it!

    68. Peru - Train ride to Machu Picchu

    7. November 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    It took us 4 days to get from Lima to Cusco - lots of hours in the car, including one 6 hour day that turned into a 12 hour day due to a washed out bridge that caused us to have to backtrack and reroute. That can definitely get you cranky.

    Cusco is the largest city near Machu Picchu, which was our destination point about 3+ hours away. We arranged to have a car take us 1.5 hours to the Voyager Train, which took us another 1.5 hours to Aguas Calientes, the launching point for MP visits.

    The train ride was fun; the views helped build the anticipation as we approached the city. From Aguas Calientes, we had a 1/2 hour bus ride up very sharp switchback roads to the site. A few pix here.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Traffic jam on a switchback mountain road. No way out.
    The trucker ahead of us pulled out to block the line jumpersWe took in the scenery while waiting. Check out the colors of the mountainsA long line of trucks coming up the ravineFinally moving again!We passed several lakes up there15,807 feet. Pass the Advil please.Stunning colorBack down to about 11,000 feet1

    67. Peru - Traffic jam at 15,807 feet

    1. November 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    We honestly didn't realize that our path to Cusco included crossing Ticlio, a switch back mountain pass road through the Andes reaching 15,807 feet. It wasn't until Craig mentioned for a second time that he had a headache that we checked our altitude. Yikes.

    That wasn't the only reason for the headache. A semi well ahead of us somehow managed to dump half his load on the road, blocking one of the lanes (one lane each way). There was a massive traffic jam of cars and many large trucks. Many cars took it upon themselves to drive in the oncoming traffic lane (which was temporarily empty due to the accident), in order to jump the line. Several trucks tried pulling out to try to block them. And then officials let oncoming traffic through,. People were so pissed about the line jumpers, that they wouldn't let them back in the proper lane, leaving them to face oncoming 18 wheelers, nose to nose. Haha.

    We lost about 40 minutes, but the situation eventually worked itself out, as these things tend to do, and we all went our merry way.    Weiterlesen

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    We chatted w/some other overlanders from Great Britian at a gas station. They shipped...... their RV to Canada & have been on the road for a few yearsThe town was dirty and ugly, but had a nice melacon along the waterBreakfast included at one hotel. 2 thin pieces of fried chicken with 2 tasteless rolls

    64. Peru - Towards Lima

    29. Oktober 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    After 3 days of 6+ hours in the car, we reached Lima. Lima is a massive city of 8 million people, situated on the coast. We took coastal roads here, (PanAmerican Highway) which offered a juxtoposition of views - from the beauty of the ocean, of desert mountains, and of sunsets, to the disturbing plethora of impoverished communities that persisted throughout the drive. The towns we stopped in along the way (just to sleep) were unimpressive industrial towns that were dirty, full of graffiti, and a little sketchy from a safety perspective.Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Through the Andes in South Ecuador
    A reward at the end of a long day's driveThe Peruvian border. Aduanas = CustomsIn northern Peru, the most common means of transportation is the tuk-tuk taxiTuk-tuks everywhere!Outside the town, we started seeing roadside shacks. Yes, people live hereThese "communities" sprawl out on both sides of the highway for many miles in the sand"and miles to go before I sleep..." (RF)

    63. Border Crossing to Peru

    27. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We said goodbye to Cuenca and headed for the border to Peru, where we passed through quickly and without ado. Kudos to Craig for having all of his paperwork in good order.

    Our first real destination point is Lima, which is 712 miles from the border, so we have some long driving days ahead of us. Heading through south Ecuador to the border (again through the Andes) was mountainous and beautiful, but once in Peru, we hit a long stretch of straight road through sandy desert like terrain, that was alternately barren, or filled with poverty-stricken communities.

    The word community may be misleading. There were no stores or shops, no parks or playgrounds, no cars in driveways (no driveways), just miles of falling down shacks often without doors or windows, and some without 4 walls. I've never seen anything like it.    Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Our bedroom had a window opening up to the courtyard. Love that little sitting area by the windowThe hostel's courtyardMore courtyardBreakfast was so yummy! Veggie crepes w/avocado, salsa, and hashbrowns...mmmAnd pretty inexpensiveSalmon with veggies for dinner. Why do they have to serve french fries with everything?Thai cocunut shrimp soup at an ethnic restaurant - deeeelish!An evening at the symphony, featuring French composers

    62. Ecuador - Cuenca 3

    25. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    It's very inexpensive to live here. We had a delicious breakfast w/ coffee for $12 total. We saw an advertisement for $250 monthly rate for a mini-suite. Our hostel cost $54 for 2 nights, and is delightful. (Due disclosure - the hot water in the shower is connected to the water pressure. If you want it hotter, you have to lower the water pressure. A little time consuming to get the shampoo washed out of your hair, but we're used to these quirks now).Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender

    60. Ecuador - Cuenca

    25. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Cuenca is a charming city located in the highlands of Ecuador, which gives it a perpetually cool and comfortable climate. There is a large ex-pat community here among the 650,000 residents, and I'm hearing more English spoken here than elsewhere so far. As I’d mentioned before, one of my goals on this trip was to check-out some of the ex-pat communities, and this one currently tops the list with features such as many and varied restaurants, 5 universities, a river running through it, good healthcare (according to our hostel proprieter Gary), and low cost of living.Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Looks like a ghost town - are we in the right place?
    The lights are on, but you're not home...2The waiting area. Smallest airport ever?This is how you go through securityOur plane arrives!I was psyched to get the best seat on the plane, right behind the pilotTake off!Bye bye IsabelaRainbow in the clouds - a nice send-off

    58. Leaving Galapagos

    23. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We took a 6 passenger puddle jumper flight from Isabela to Santa Cruz before heading back to the mainland. Isabela has a tiny airport from which you can only catch an interisland flight. We had the first flight of the day, and arrived early, before anyone else.Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    Playa Brava in Tortuga Bay
    Mangroves at the lagoonThe iguanas hide in plain sight by flattening themselves out on the rocksAnd sometimes it totally works!But not so much in the sandYou guys know I can see you, right?

    55. Galapagos 7 - Tortuga Bay & Iguanas

    18. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Playa Brava, the beach that encompasses Tortuga Bay, is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Galapagos, and it doesn't disappoint. The sand was like sifted flour and the ocean clear and pristine. We walked to the end of the beach, where the entrance to a lagoon was marked by a path of iguanas making their way from the water, up the beach and into the brush.Weiterlesen

  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Reisender
    The trail to the crater lake
    A misty day at Laguna El Junco - crater lake 700 meters above sea levelThe trail to Puerto Chino Beach has an arid climateFinchThe dreaded inter-island ferry boat.We made it.Santa Cruz pierThe local fish marketPlenty of water taxis around

    54. Galapagos 6 - Heading to Santa Cruz

    17. Oktober 2019 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Before leaving San Cristobal, we headed to the highlands for a hike to Laguna El Junco, one of the few freshwater lakes on the island, and also visited the island's east side beach of Puerto Chino. A few pix attached.

    Thursday morning we caught the 2 hour ferry ride to Santa Cruz. Aka - boat ride from hell. There were about 30 of us packed in like sardines with luggage stowed in the bow. People in the middle of the boat had no air, people in the back were cold and wet. I joined a handful who were tossing up their breakfast. Craig had his plastic bag ready, bit didn't need to use it. The ride left us both dizzy and nauseous for the rest of the day. Needless to say, we have sea sickness pills for our next ferry ride.

    All that said, we recovered and moved on!    Weiterlesen

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