Inland on the Alps2Ocean trail

New Zealanders, although not great cyclists - only 18% regularly ride a bike compared to global average of 35% - have created an amazing ‘Great Rides’ infrastructure of off-road cycle trails crisscrossing the country which we’re really enjoying. We made use of the ‘Alps 2 Ocean’ (A2O) bike trail from Oamaru to Omarama for 160km/100miles heading back inland on our way over to the west coast.

5 June - It was exciting to see the Southern Alps in the distance with dustings of snow. Quiet roads and tracks through agricultural countryside at first, with groups of wee birds flitting from hedge to fencing keeping us company as we pedalled. As the day wore on the landscape became more varied and interesting with limestone outcrops and cliffs. Elephant Rocks lit up by the setting sun was the day’s highlight, before rolling into Duntroon campground as it was getting dark. With minus degrees and snowfall forecast that night, Steve - the caretaker who made his living doing saddlery and livery (!) - kindly let us sleep in the camp hut. No heating, but warmer than our tent, and a wonderful guest book to read and keep up our spirits!

6 June - We woke to a bright clear perfectly crisp winter morning (no snow!) and enjoyed exploring Duntroon village - with sculptures honouring the first pioneers, fossil museum, sink hole, amazingly preserved blacksmiths, old gaol, English-looking church, Flying Pig cafe, and community wetlands. We had lovely friendly chats with locals - Peter and Trevor - who, interested in us as a new spectacle in the village, came over to speak to us. An easy day cycling took us up to Kurow, only 15 miles away, over some streams forded with freezing feet. Defrosted slowly in a motel, with rain thundering down outside.

7 June - A sunny cold morning slid into a grey afternoon taking us along edges of big expanses of water - Lake Waitaki and Lake Aviemore - with blue skies and wintery mountains icily reflected. We crossed a series of hydro power dams (57% NZ electricity needs are supplied by hydro), with the last and largest, Benmore Dam, pretty impressive. Lilz remarked it looked like something out of Star Wars - could imagine starships flying out.

8 June - Climbing back up to Benmore dam from Otematata where we’d stayed, we continued up past the dam, going up, up, and then over, with views unfolding around each tight high corner. Far from any roads, the A2O took us around a remote peninsula where we were treated to cycling along the foreshore of Lake Benmore, in full sunshine, no other soul, framed by snowy peaks on all sides. Was stunning and a lot of fun! Powering up to Omarama the temperature was now perceptibly colder and the mountains a lot whiter. Luckily, the snow that had fallen heavily a few days ago had now cleared on the road over Lindis Pass enabling us to stick to our plan to cycle over and reach Wānaka on the other side. Feeling a little bit daunted tbh.Read more