Lindis Pass and Upper Clutha River

9 June - Lindis Pass. It has loomed large in our minds for the last few days. The highest point on the South Isle’s highways at 971 m (3,186 ft), we needed to cross it on our route over to Wānaka. Covered in snow it had been too dangerous for us to attempt, but now the snow had melted… it was time.

Found it hard from the start. A long, long straight road leads you in, energy-sapping in its ever-so-slight but relentless crawl uphill (imperceptible to a driver), before the gradient increases up into the mountain folds. Although a hard slog, the gradual climb meant the Pass felt manageable and we reached the Lookout Point at noon, feeling elated, to join the other tourists taking photos.

Wrapping up well we plunged down the other side, which was steep and freezing cold. The sun couldn’t reach the road over the mountains and the world became a blur of blue and grey as the icy wind whipped past as we hurtled down. It felt quite hazardous trying not to skid in the loose scree at the side of the road, or lose our cool when the few trucks thundered past. Glad to reach the lower levels, where the sun found us making it considerably warmer and we started to thaw out.

We were happy to finally leave hwy 8 and join a dirt road that took us up through high sheep country, with wide sweeping views across the valley. Looking for a place to wild camp nothing appeared and we had to rejoin the highway. Dusk was upon us and the tank was empty. As the sun dramatically edged the darkening mountains on the horizon in gold, we found a less-than-ideal camp spot amongst some trees. Trying to cook, we realised our stove was broken - the thread on the gas canister valve was worn out and we could no longer attach the gas. Glumly, we chewed cold cheese rolls in the dark tent before bedding down.

10 June - Having survived the possums through the night, we were up before light to collapse the tent and get away lickety split. Only stopped for breakfast once we had reached the Upper Clutha River trail and could leave the highway once more. Had watery, but welcome, oats at a bench overlooking a horseshoe bend in the river far below. The river was wild: huge and deep and fast, cutting a deep swathe through the land, and the rising sun was fiery in an otherwise grey expanse. A beautiful start to the day!

Enjoyed cycling above the river. The trail was long - with the river as company all the way - sometimes taking us down to the fast flowing turquoise water, sometimes taking us back to the river’s ridgeline. With lots of stoney scree and large bouldery pebbles making it almost impossible to cycle it was hard going and Maybe Thom hated it. Reaching a patisserie in Albert Town was the. most. welcome thing. Amanda was beyond hangries, poor Lilz. From there it was an easy roll to our Airbnb in Wānaka which was an absolute treat. Never before been so excited to have pizza and wine and a film. The simple things truly are the best.Weiterlesen