Thailand - Phu Pha Man to the Mekong

The next few days would see us cycling the 2216, known in motorcycling communities as one of the most scenic backroads in Thailand. But not by many (shh). With no motor, for us cyclists, it was a very tough, but very beautiful ride - one of our Thailand highlights. 160 miles (257km) over 5 days and a total 11,000ft (3,350m: 3+ Munros) ascent got us, finally, to the Mekong.

Leaving bat-town (Phu Pha Man) we cut up through the Phetchabun Mountains winding uphill on quiet green roads to a high point of 3100ft (945m: think Helvellyn). Oof it was tough, but so worth it. We were sandwiched between two protected areas: Nam Nao NP to the south and Phu Kradueng NP to the north, and as we slowly climbed the views began to reveal themselves. Tree-clad hills rolled away to a line of ragged peaks on the horizon. Small yellow butterflies cheered us on.

Once at the top we did a wee detour to deserted Nam Nao Canyon, passing an unusual, intricately carved wooden wat on the way. We didn’t see a soul.

Day’s end and we were cycling along a ridge, hills unfolding on either side. We bumped down a gravel track to Sun Stone campsite. What a spot. Battling with Divine Mountain for best campsite award, Sun Stone’s views were seemingly endless. The hills layered one behind the other growing in grandeur as they faded into the distance. The light softened, Lilz produced a bottle of beer as if by magic, and we sat curled into each other as we watched the sky dial through its sunset colours. Perfection.

Waking just before dawn I lifted my head to see if the sun was awake yet. A blush of peach widened across the sky. Whilst packing up we could hear preparations being made up at the main house above the campsite, and then monks chanting. It was lovely to hear. I looked at the campsite’s Facebook page: “February 28th, 2569 *, is an auspicious day for making merit at Sun Stone Namnao to bring good fortune and happiness.”

At 8 we heaved our bikes up the little hill towards the house. Embarrassed we wheeled our laden steeds through the religious proceedings led by three visiting monks. A gathering of people at prayer scowled at us. Realising we still had to pay we continued to be disruptive as instead of being able to pay like a local through a quick QR code - Thailand is virtually a cashless society - we had to rummage for the right amount of cash. 😣

A day of cycling up high on a quiet road past
traditional wooden houses on stilts, pineapple and rubber farms, scrubland with elephant warning signs, huge trees and an amazing variety of seed pods. At lunchtime we luckily came across a home with a side-of-the-road-kitchen. After eating our staple egg fried rice the lovely lady gave us a bunch of bananas from her garden to take with us.

With no accommodation on this remote road we dropped down 95m (312ft) to the small hamlet Ban Wang Kon Huat, a short detour off our route.

Sunday - 1 March, my Dad’s birthday - would be our toughest day through these hills. Only 29 miles, the day consisted of six ascents in 37 degree heat. One particularly brutal 3515ft hill (1070m: almost Snowden) we could see in the distance as we approached it, the road switchbacking in sweeps up its side. The scenery and views more than compensated for the pain, and once at the top I felt pure satisfaction in looking back and seeing the ribbon of road just travelled. Also the kindness of one man, driving a saleng (motorcycle with attached sidecar), who stopped as we puffed up the hill to give us each a frozen orange drink. I can’t explain how much this act boosted my morale and motivation.

I was reminded of Australia more than once during the day - the dry heat, the tinder-dry landscape, the red earth, eucalypt trees, and the prevalence of Ute drivers. It also felt strangely like autumn as the parched skeletal trees dropped their leaves. Tamarind, the area’s crop, was sold in huge heaps at roadside stalls.

Finally on the descent, but sad to be leaving the height behind, we dropped down into Loei’s Phu Luang district, heading to Phuholuang Campsite. Stopping at a wee shop for provisions the shopkeeper gave us a coconut as a parting gift. A very kind gesture - however heavy to carry and impossible for us to get into! 😆 The campsite when we arrived was deserted. After a few failed phone calls and then WhatsApp messages, a caretaker came and let us in. Charged a cheeky Westerner price (higher than prices Thai’s had quoted in their reviews of the place) we were however glad of the calm and the views of Phu Luang ridge.

As we laughingly predicted the night before, we were awoken early. The neighbouring wat’s gong chimed, and a monk chanted over the loudspeaker. This set the local dogs a-howling. The caretaker, who had stayed overnight, repeatedly slammed his car door, talked at full volume into his phone, and then revved his motorcycle before speeding off. All before 6am.

The next two days were easy. We enjoyed a short flat 20 mile cycle to Wang Saphung where we found a great restaurant on the Loei River. Learning that our tenants in Edinburgh had given us notice to leave we had time on this short cycling day to together consider our options for how to continue the Trip. Good chats were had on the steps of a 7-Eleven. Bike lanes (!) took us into and out of Loei and we rode hwy 201 - named by local cyclists as the ‘Dragon’s Back’ as it undulates so much - to Chiang Khan on the Mekong.

The Mekong.

To reach this famous river, last seen by us a decade ago, has felt like a goal for a long time. It felt pretty special to be sitting on its banks watching the water slowly drift past, looking across at Laos, a whole different country. I learnt a uni friend of mine died today and the loss of his utter joyfulness in this world is making the feeling of living life ever more special today, and the want to hold those we love.

* (Thailand uses the Buddhist Era (BE) calendar starting when Buddha died, 543 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar (AD). 2026 AD corresponds to 2569 BE).Read more