Vietnam - Van Long to Tam Chuc

It was an excellent cycle from Van Long to Tam Chuc. Quiet roads and scenic landscapes of jungle-clad limestone mountains. We didn’t really know what to expect at Tam Chuc, described as the largest Buddhist complex in Vietnam, featuring monumental statues and serene landscapes. We were intrigued.

Nearing Tam Chuc we had the entire road to ourselves for a long time. The road seemed brand new, but devoid of any sign of life. We glorified in this and embraced the freedom of cycling in the middle of the road. We also enjoyed the gradual descent - scenic empty downhill roads: this is what I signed up for!

Circling round the back of the Tam Chuc complex we first saw the Ba Sao Pagoda set in the middle of a square green lake surrounded by mountains. Not a soul in site and incredibly peaceful.

Cycling on round and nearing our hotel (part of the complex) we were stopped by an official man in his green mũ cối (pith helmet). He seemed quite bemused as to what to do with us and radioed hotel reception for verifications. In the hot sun there ensued a lot of back and forth between us, google translate, and the hotel on the radio. Eventually we were permitted to continue.

As we cycled up to the huge hotel, surrounded by trees, the sound of the cicadas was deafening. A metallic rhythmic roar that bore into your brain. Excited to explore, we secured our bikes and dumped our stuff in our hotel room.

The place was deserted. A few members of staff wandered about sweeping leaves (always sweeping), manning icecream stalls, chatting by electric buggies. It felt like we’d entered some other world. This feeling only intensified as we spent the day exploring the monumentally huge religious grounds. It felt so strange and unVietnamese having no other tourists to contend with. We revelled in the peace having the entire site to ourselves.

Tam Chuc Pagoda has a history dating back over a thousand years. The old pagoda is long gone, but the new complex, only opened in May 2019, is constructed atop its foundations. Consisting of three temples, overlooking one of the largest lakes in Vietnam, they rise one above the other, with mountains framed to their rear. Across the lake is the main entrance (we came in from the back) where tourists are loaded on to stylised boats to cross the expanse of water. Half an hour later they disembark and enter at Tam Quan Gate: the grand entrance, before moving through the Sutra Garden: 99 stone pillars 13.5m tall engraved with Buddhist scriptures, and on up to the three temples. Ngoc Pagoda (Jade Pagoda): sits high above all, perched on the summit of That Tinh mountain.

Everything here is on a maahoosive scale neither of us had experienced before. And sparkly new with no expense spared. The entire site is 5,000-hectares (almost the size of Manhattan island). The three temples are enormous structures, each housing towering bronze statues of Buddha. I loved taking my shoes off, stepping through the series of huge wooden doors - each beautifully carved and letting in swathes of tropical light - to sit, dwarfed by it all, to take it all in. A calm, still serenity settled on me. Birds have made the temples their home and fly above happily chirping. Impossibly large blue and white porcelain vases, elegantly frame the altars. On the walls inside each temple intricately crafted ceiling to floor stone reliefs depict the life of Buddha. Carved by Indonesian artisans they gave us a link back to when we visited Borobudur in Java which made us both smile with the memory.

In a communist country and an officially secular state, it seemed strange to me that so much investment’s been made to build such a huge religious site. Only 13-15% of the population actively register as Buddhists (however I read 60% incorporate Buddhist teachings into daily life). The site was approved as a national spiritual tourism area by the Prime Minister to attract both domestic and international tourists. Its aim is to provide a massive boost to economic development. VNĐ 17 trillion (£309million) has been poured into the complex, primarily funded by major domestic construction firms. When it is completed in 2048 the ‘spiritual cultural area’ where we were exploring, will be one of six areas including reception center, nature reserve, wellness area, golf course, and tourism centre. The project is part of a vision to create a ‘Buddhist Road’ connecting the Perfume Pagoda (Hanoi), Tam Chuc Pagoda (Ha Nam), and Bai Dinh Pagoda (Ninh Binh).

Build it and they will come! Although quiet when we visited, Tam Chuc was visited by over 10,000 worshippers just after it opened to hold the United Nations Day of Vesak Celebration in 2019. It attracts enormous crowds, especially in early spring: the lunar new year sees crowds tens of thousands strong on a single day.

So I felt particularly grateful we experienced the place with such peace. It is a very beautiful spot. Climbing up to the bell tower through immaculate gardens provided stunning views of the temples, sutra garden, lake and mountains in the gloaming light. Masses of dragonflies danced in the air, their translucent wings catching the golden sun. Red wooden prayers softly rattled on their ribbons as they caught the warm breeze. With only one day left of cycling - tomorrow we’d reach Hanoi and pack the bikes away - I felt a surging sense of wonder, wellbeing and sadness all mixed together. I was utterly in the present, savouring the sights and sounds and smell of jasmine on the air. This mindfulness was pricked by the pointy fingers of future uncertainty. During this trip I have so enjoyed the sparks of curiosity, hunting out what lies beyond the horizon, a road that has often been beautiful beyond words. The bike provides such a unique way to experience the world. Without barriers to being approached, it provides an instant opening for conversation and interaction. People immediately recognise our vulnerability and respond to it - we have been blown away by the unexpected generosity, kindness, and hospitality from locals. With no barriers we’ve experienced an immersion in our environment and connections with people, animals and landscapes. I’m not sure I’m ready to fully let go of that.

Before the sun set we climbed up to the Jade Pagoda. The pagoda is built of red granite from India and inside sits a serene statue of Buddha made from precious jade from Myanmar. For me the true wealth is in the view. We watched the orange ball of the sun drop behind one of the seven mountains behind us, representing seven fairies from local legend. The view of the lake, islets, temples and jungle below us was magical. Even more so as it got dark and the temples were lit up and sat golden in the velvet blue.Leia mais