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Big Rambling Ride
  • Amanda Palmer
  • Andy Littler
  • Amanda Palmer
  • Andy Littler

Big Rambling Ride

Amanda and Lilz, start cycling in New Zealand and travel homewards, one day at a time. Leggi altro
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  • Big Rambling Ride
    1Beautiful sunrise and birdsong from our cabinTractor taking our water taxi out into the seaSplit Apple Rock1Water taxi dropping us off at Torrent BayFollow the orange markers across the tidal flats3Always eating!1Anchorage Bay1Weka doing its weka thing on Anchorage BeachKarewa Türangapeke RiwaiTorrent Bay in the distance...Observation Beach1Lilz on Observation BeachMārahau estuaryIleodictyon cibarium, commonly known as the basket fungus or white basket fungusCrossing Mārahau estuaryA Waharoa (entranceway) carved from totara, tells the story of migration of a group of Māori

    Mārahau

    4–8 lug 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We loved Mārahau. We lucked out with our booking: a cabin up on the hillside with wonderful views and lovely owners, and the place was so peaceful. We stayed 3 days we liked it so much.

    Mārahau translates to the windy garden: Māra - garden and hau - wind, and is pronounced: Maaaa-ra-ho. (We learnt that without the macron the meaning/pronunciation changes: Marahau - scrap wind). Easy to see how the name came about with the large sand flats providing a bountiful source of shellfish, and with the daily sea breezes.

    We’d come to walk some of the ‘Coast Track’ in Abel Tasman National Park. To walk the entire track (37miles/60 kms) takes 3-5 days from Mārahau in the south to Wainui in the north. It is the most popular of NZ DoC’s Great Walks, with most of the NP’s 200,000 visitors walking at least part of the track. Like us, many do a single-day walk, as many points are accessible by boat from beaches along the track.

    We opted to get a water taxi up to Torrent Bay and to walk the 10 miles/16kms back to Mārahau. The water taxi was fun - you get on the boat on land and a tractor rolls the boat out to sea until it can float and then we were off at speed! First detouring south to see Split Apple Rock, across to Adele Island (a pest-free bird sanctuary) to see the fur seal pups and then north for half hour to Torrent Bay.

    We arrived at low tide so got to walk across the tidal flats watching the tiny tiny crabs scoot into their burrows in the sand and the thousands of shells that littered the floor.

    The track took us over to Anchorage Bay - a beautiful sweep of golden beach - before turning inland. Along the way the track offered views out to Fisherman Island and there were bays you could dip down to from the bush track - Watering Cove, Akersten Bay, Observation Beach (climbing down we were accompanied by birds loudly singing), Apple Tree Bay (we dipped down to), Coquille Bay, and lastly Tinline Bay before crossing the estuary of the Mārahau River.

    Durmont d’Urville, the French explorer, named a lot of the coves in the 1870s. He named Observation Beach as this was where an observatory was set up to view the transit of Venus across the sky. Tinline was named after John Tinline, who acquired a block of land from Marahau to the stream in 1857 and was a much respected local figure who devoted his life to government service, farming and philanthropy. Best of all, Tinlin was commonly known as 'Old Fizzlebilly' because of his long flowing beard.

    At the end of the track we saw an amazing cage-like structure - which we later found out is the basket fungus native to New Zealand, Australia, and Chile. In New Zealand, this fungus holds cultural significance for Māori, who have numerous names for it, such as tūtae kēhua (ghost droppings). Some names, like tūtaewhatitiri, relate to its appearance after thunderstorms, linking it to Whatitiri, the god of thunder.

    We were also impressed to learn of Mārahau’s zero-carbon pledge that all businesses operating in the area have signed up to. A portion of every paid experience ticket (water taxi, kayaking, guides, camping, etc) goes directly into local projects. Last season, the Pledge raised around $790,000 to invest locally: that’s not pocket change for a small village. Investments have included trapping and pest eradication, track enhancement and signage, wetlands restoration and native plantings establishing kai gardens and a native nursery, funding practical local improvements, and backing a local sculptural project.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Murchison museum - a haven of interesting artefacts
    Murchison, St Paul Anglican Church, 1905Murchison Museum image of how to transport your child by canoe whilst in a pramMurchison Museum. Everything from taxidermy, lace making, 1960s hairstyles, to earthquakes2Still in operation until 1987!4Lilz was overjoyed to see this. You can take the pie eater out of Wigan but....5Kawatiri camp by hwy 6 with Milky Way above4How to keep you feet warm when your circulation is not great. Introducing the foot glove.Good to finally be off the highway.2Moo1School bus shelter on Dry Weather Rd = coffee making stop!'Dry Weather Road' into Tapawera. Long happy descent all the merry way!Seriously big logging trucks1Chupa-chups!?Tapawera Hidden Sculpture Garden1Hidden Sculpture Garden. $8000 sculpture rescued after it was swept away by the flood.Tapawera clean-up removing flood-dropped tree debris from exposed riverbedFlood waters came up well over fencing: my knees would've been underwater on the raised road4Beehives2Wet milestone: reaching the north coast of the South Isle!

    Murchison to North coast

    1–5 lug 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    1 July - Murchison to Kawatiri…

    We spent a sunny ☀️ happy morning in Murchison. A rural service town for the surrounding farming district it is halfway on our route between west and north coasts. With a big population of 650 it felt hip and happening.

    Everyone we met was extremely friendly, and unbidden offered help and useful information. As we were standing by our bikes a man came over to say we could stay at his tonight if needed (!), the local shop staff volunteered news the Braeburn Track we intended to take up to Kawatiri had been swept away by the floods, and ladies in the museum phoned a helpline on our behalf to find out about road closures.

    In the Rivers Cafe we made new plans to negotiate flooding/road detours over excellent coffee - Amanda having hers ‘tulip size’ (small medium cup) - and with the best biscuits we’ve ever tasted: almond and orange chewy mouth-watering brilliance.

    Plans made, we wandered across the road to the village museum which was a total treat, a treasure trove of interesting artifacts, suspect taxidermy, and information.

    Some museum snippets:
    • The manual Telephone Exchange only closed in Dec 1987 when the people in Murchison said goodbye to the sociable party line, for automatic individual lines. When it closed, nine staff were made unemployed with little prospects. “I might get my old gold pan out and try my luck down the river," one ex-operator said.
    • Murchison experienced a major earthquake in 1929 measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale. Seventeen people lost their lives: 3rd deadliest earthquake in NZ’s history.
    • The world's earliest suicide bomber is believed to have occurred in Murchison in 1905. A long-standing dispute between two farmers over cattle stealing resulted in a court case. The accused became so angry at the whole proceedings, he tied explosives to himself and threatened to blow up the judge: “I'll blow the devil to hell, and I have enough dynamite to do just that". Luckily, he was persuaded outside before he could detonate the charge. “The farmer appearing to be here one moment and completely disappearing the next.”

    It was a joy to cycle in the sun when we finally took leave of lovely Murchison. The road itself though was not fun, being narrow with cars that gave little quarter, a sore knee, and a constant ascent. Still, not too far, only 22 miles today. Unfortunately Kawatiri was not a great DoC campsite, being next to the busy highway. So we hid behind the only tree-cover and made do, feeling like the thundering trucks going past were coming right through the tent. Cold bright frosty starry night: Milky Way arcing above.

    2 July - Weds. Kawatiri to Tapawera…
    Cold start - 1 degree - but once on the road the sun came out and burnt off the damp low cloud making the mist swirl amongst the trees. We were both glad to get off highway 6 onto the ‘Dry Weather Track’ a long downhill all the way into Tapawera. Tapawera is becoming known as the ‘Hops Capital of NZ,’ with a significant hop growing industry evident in all the large fields roundabouts.

    Forecasts of heavy rain falling on already saturated ground spurred anxiety about more flooding/road closures, so we’d booked an Airbnb for two nights giving us a welcome ‘day off’ after 6 days of cycling. Met Rachel (from Shropshire) at the Airbnb which had been built by her husband David’s parents. David is a sculptor and Amanda went to look around their Hidden Sculpture Garden. Sadly the flood had put the garden completely underwater, with many of the sculptures - David’s and other NZ artists - washed away. Luckily one piece worth $8000 they’d managed to salvage!

    3 July - Thurs. Tapawera Airbnb...
    So nice to wake to hear the rain - outside! - and have coffee in bed. Little luxuries. Planning day and drying clothes, tent, etc.

    4 July - Fri. Tapawera to Mārahau…
    A day cycling in the rain beside the still raging Motueka River we witnessed significant flood damage. Sobering to see the aftermath of the brute force of nature’s strength. At Tapawera bridge huge uprooted tree debris had been dropped by the receding waters on the exposed riverbed. Trees snapped along the riverbanks like matchsticks, one house’s entire drowned possessions piled in a ruined heap outside their home, a large shed having been swept along by the power of the water now left incongruously in an open field. With all the devastation we were impressed how quickly the road had been reopened: in a matter of days the road had been cleared of landslides, fallen trees, and silt where it had been flooded.

    After cycling through a lot of commercial orchards, reaching the north coast felt like a real milestone! Even when we couldn’t really see the sea through the rainy murk 😆. Arriving at dusk in Mārahau, soaked through, we were delighted to check into our accommodation and peel off wet clothes into warm dry ones. We were looking forward to our walks in Abel Tasman National Park in the next couple of days!    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    A Northern Rata - begins as an epiphyte on a host tree, grows roots that encases its host tree
    Truman Track lookout2Surprise at the end of the Truman Track1Beach at the end of the Truman TrackWaterfall on the beach (thought these only happened in films!)Highway 6, heading north, hugging the stunning coastPaparoa National Park and coastal Highway1Encounter with fellow cycle tourer! Lovely Skyler, hailing from Ontario, CanadaAnother hill, another view!Kawatiri Coastal Trail - miles of winding track through thick bush.Ken, who we met twice on the road and who invited us to stay in his house in Westport.Westport MarinaWestport Municipal BuildingWestport - what a hoot!Old style arcade shop frontT-Rex tree - can you see it? It's a thing and has its own Google PinBuller Gorge and the Buller River (the river has risen to half way up the road cutting in the past)The hungry Sandfly Sculpture at Berlin's Campground (scale is not 1:1)Camp chaos in Berlin's portacabin camp1Setting up camp at Murchison Riverside Campground, on the sheltered kitchen decking

    Punakaiki to Murchison

    28 giu–1 lug 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Note:
    Apologies for this lengthy War and Peace like missive! Much to remember and lack of time and mobile data for a while.

    Sat 28 June…
    Leaving Punakaiki we stopped at the Truman Track which took us along the path through a subtropical forest of podocarp trees, nīkau palms, and towering Northern Rata. (Rata are a cunning tree that starts life as an epiphyte on its host tree and sends down aerial roots which eventually entomb its host). The track opened out into a band of coastal flax, which initially concealed a surprise small cove, beach and waterfall. The beach was beautiful and very atmospheric, with waves crashing against rocks, and breaking at the top of the beach.

    The coast road north hugged the sea providing great views: we tried not to get too distracted and plummet over the edge. The linger of clouds in the trees and sea spray added to the feeling of riding through the fictional Isla Nublar of Jurassic Park.

    At Irimahuwhero Lookout we met a couple from Christchurch on a long weekend break. We really enjoy these friendly meetings, learning about local people, their thoughts and insight. They helpfully told us about the wet weather up north where we were heading. Rainfall of 150-200mm had caused rivers to burst and severe local flooding, causing several road closures due to land slips, collapsed roads, and damaged bridges. At the same lookout, we also met Ken, who was on a day-trip driving down the coast. An easy going and chatty gent, we riffed on biking, his love of tramping (hiking), and the outdoors.

    Blue skies and sun accompanied us as we turned inland. Coming the other way was another fellow traveller! Skyler, a cycle tourer and Canadian teacher from Ontario (he lives 25 hours north of Toronto!). His 5-week tour on his summer break started in the North Isle and he was heading to Bluff on the far south coast. An experienced traveller, Skyler has visited 31 of 50 US states and cycled the length of Canada, west to east! He recently had a failed brake, a fall on his bike resulting in cuts and grazes to his arms, and needed a replacement wheel. He seemed so relaxed about this, in good spirits and not at all fazed. He also recommended his experience of ‘Warmshowers’ (a world community of resident cycle tourers who host other fellow cyclists) - something we’re looking to try.

    Reaching the small hamlet of Charleston we grabbed a coffee and bumped into Ken again on his way home to Westport. He gave us some tips about back routes to Westport and asked us where we were staying. When we replied that our aim was to pitch at the campsite he kindly said we could stay with him and gave us his address! It was lovely to meet someone like Ken who was a like minded person with similar interests and who also enjoyed meeting new people.

    We chose to take the longer off-road Kawatiri Coastal Trail from Charleston to Westport. This trail was initially interesting, and by a river, through woods - not too troubling. It then developed into a twisty track through dense bush for miles, ‘wiggly woo’, back and forth, switchback and bend, up and down: definitely not direct and a bit hard on our laden bikes. Progress was very slow and we joked we had been down sections of the path before and were going in circles as it all looked the same! Eventually the ‘Heart of Darkness’ section, as Amanda coined it, ended and we rode out into arable fields with cattle and down to the sea. All the while, the heavens greyed and weather turned wet from ‘mizzle’ to drizzle, then full blown hard rain. In darkness and with heads down we ploughed along a wet road for the last 10 miles into Westport - so delighted to have a welcoming dry house to head to and friendly welcome by Ken. Thanks to him, a luxurious night in his spare room.

    Arriving at Ken’s we parked bikes in his garage and decanted wet waterproofs. Ken showed us around his lovely house (us leaving wet footprints) that he had refurbished himself.

    Before settling we nipped out to a local pub for tea and had a good hearty meal and allowed ourselves a drink too.

    Chatting to Ken that evening we learnt about his interesting life. First a bit of a bad boy in his youth (his words) he entered the military and became a tailor. Later he got into boat building, which led to upholstering boats as bespoke orders for clients with money to spend! He told us about his love of tramping and showed us photos of many of the NZ Great Walks. He also motorbikes and his latest project is a camper van build! A man of many talents and skills he really inspired us!

    Sun 29 June…
    After a great nights sleep, we bade Ken farewell. He said for us to get in touch when we reach Picton where he lives, which was lovely and we hope to meet him for a coffee.

    The next section of our route followed the Buller gorge, aiming for Berlins campground. The river meandered through a wooded valley, narrowing at points as the river cut through the steep slopes. We passed the T-Rex tree (dinosaur, not Marc Bolan’s band) and outside the campground found a huge sculpture of a sandfly (NZ’s version of the Scottish midge).

    We met Dean the owner who offered us a deal on a cabin, better than a tent pitch on a chilly damp evening. Chatting to Dean his face lit up as he recalled following his heart and being convinced to buy a push bike by a French lady and cycle from Croatia, via Montenegro, to Greece. After 11 years running the campsite he’d like to travel again, saying the business rates in NZ are getting too high, it was too hard to run a profit, and he wanted to sell the business. What next for Dean, who knows but we wished him well.

    Mon 30 June…
    Awake eat and with no tent to pack away, we breakfasted and hit the road. Today we followed the Buller River for the majority of the day winding through tree covered hillsides. It was a day of many hills (14 climbs) and Amanda’s knee suffered, nagging her most of the day. We clocked 42 miles as we pulled into Murchiston mid-afternoon.

    Before cycling a mile or so out of town to the campsite, we visited the Post Office where Robin the helpful and friendly ex-pat postmaster helped us navigate the process of international post. After popping to the supermarket for our evening dinner, we cycled to the Riverside Camp where the lovely lady said we could camp under the outside sheltered seating area, right by the shared kitchen and toilet. Little luxuries! In our sleeping bags we could hear the sound of the river running by and had a very peaceful sleep!    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    You can see the road as it follows the coast
    1Sadly we didn't see any penguins1Stunning morning ride alongside the coast1Pancake rocks121Sea after the storm4Heavy rain for most of the day. It knows how to rain here.Exploring Punakaiki CavernThe start of the Paparoa Track2Pororari riverVines a plentyHike-a-bike up and down steps and rocky paths1Loved the wonderful green ferny undergrowth, and forest canopy above1Coming down from the ridge onto Waikori Road

    Hokitika to Pancake Rocks

    24 giugno 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    24 June - Sloggy day on the highway from Hokitika through Greymouth and on to Rapahoe, with more traffic than we’re used to, but sunny. Highlights: a Weka joining us for lunch, a wee sit on the pebbly seashore, and a great wild camp spot near Point Elizabeth overlooking the bay with the sun setting and the flax rustling in the breeze.

    25 June - Weka poked its head under the porch tent flap to wish us good morning. The air was balmy and humid, different to the cold bite we’ve been used to, the foliage more tropical and lush. High limestone cliffs and karst sea stacks accompanied us all along the coastal road. Amanda was high all morning, loving having the sea immediately to our left, giving up new views as the road rose, or in reach of turquoise grey waves as it dropped low. Lilz was struggling more today, finding it difficult to find his rhythm and battered by the hills, squally rain and headwinds. A grumpy day for him! The conditions eventually ground Amanda down too and we were both very glad to reach Pancake Rocks.

    The walk was spectacular, looking over the sculpted limestone rock stacks with vast coastal views. The pancake rocks are made up of thin seams of mudstone between harder limestone layers. The mudstone is more vulnerable to weathering and erosion, creating the banded appearance.

    Stayed in a motel in Punakaiki village to shelter from the storm coming in: 46mph winds and heavy rain. Night was very wild: extremely glad to be indoors.

    26 June - Went up to the seafront and was exhilarated by the energy of the stormy waves and crashing white surf. Rested up in our cabin as the rain came down, planning the route ahead for the next week. In the afternoon we went across the road to Punakaiki cavern. Following the wooden stairway up into the darkness we explored the 130m of passages and subtle stalactites. Turned off our head torches at points, surrounded by utter darkness. Back in our cabin we felt safe and homey as we curled up in bed to watch Dept Q on Netflix (it was comforting seeing Edinburgh on screen!)

    27 June - Taking our friend’s recommendation (thanks again Angus!) to explore the Paparoa Track, we took our (unladen!) bikes to meander through nikau palms and tree ferns alongside the Pororari river up the limestone gorge. We very much enjoyed seeing the nikau, the only native palm tree in Aotearoa. They are slow growers, taking 40-50 years to form a trunk and 200 years to reach 10m tall. Looking at the map we thought we’d do the Punakaiki loop, starting with the Paparoa Track and then joining the Waikori Road to take us back to the main road further south. The track at first was ok but then became unsuitable for bikes, and we found ourselves doing quite a bit of hike-a-bike. The route also took us up and over a ridge, so not so much of a rest day! Wonderful however being amongst all the green undergrowth and under the forest canopy!    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Thar's gold in them thar hills....Downtown Hokitika. A mixture of artsy/craftsy, traditional and practical. A good mix!Nets and men, men with nets. Whitebait fishing heritage.Whitebait marketing hoarding. A profound and fishy dictum for us all.Stargazer driftwood sculpture on the beach. Thought of you Angus.The Museum is the West Coast's largest museum. Housed in historic Carnegie Library. Closed tho.Bumped into Matt again. He gave me another Serpentine stone.1Boared at the Bottle-O. Grabbing some beers after the hunt?Stained glass in many of the older trad houses. Loved this one.1A Tūī! Our first. Their call is lovely, complex and varies. They can imitate, like a parrot.Heritage wooden clad buildings give the town characterBonz 'n' Stonz -Carve your own Pounamu (Greenstone), bone and shell. Stone craft & art1Grinding a stone at Bonz 'n' Stonz. Very addictive!So much driftwood. An artists dream.1One man and his driftwood dog. Walkies!1Rocks on the beach at duskSt. Mary's Catholic Church with stained glass lit by sunrise1We keep coming across places that remind us of our local Cameo CinemaInscription read "Daring and conquering, though not sharing in the afterglow"

    Hokitika - ‘The Cool Little Town’

    22–24 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    “There was only a narrow corridor of flat land between the coastline and the sudden alps, battered by the endless surf that turned to smoke on the sand..” – Eleanor Catton, The Luminaries.

    Lying between the sea and mountains at the mouth of a river on a flat coastal plain is Hokitika, a town we had been looking forward to passing through.

    The land where Hokitika lies was purchased by the Crown in 1860 from a Māori principal Tribe (iwi) by the signing of Arahura Deed. This was the sale of the whole of the West Coast region, apart from small areas reserved for Māori. Almost 7 million acres sold to the Crown for around 300 quid (1 old penny per 100 acre)
    Later buyback of some land by the Māori from the Crown was at inflated value (12,000 times as expensive as the acres bought) and deemed by tribunal that the Crown failed to act with the degree of good faith required of one Treaty partner to the other. Same old story of exploitation and profiteering that seems to have been common the world over. On discovery of gold in the Taramakau valley in 1864, prospectors started arriving at the Hokitika River mouth. In 1865, a glut of gold prospectors and traders arrived, and the town was occupied and bouncing within a year. Many miners lived close to their diggings where they worked but Hokitika was the town they went to for supplies, recreation and to sell gold. For a short period, the town had a population of over 4,000 becoming one of NZ’s most populous centres. It’s about the same today. The river port at Hokitika was hazardous, and many ships were grounded or wrecked entering the river mouth to dock, due to the sandbar, tides and reduced depth, making it hard to navigate. Ships and boats at the wharf in some places appeared three and four deep. The port of ranked 1st in New Zealand circa 1870 in both the number of vessels entered inwards and in the total value of exports; mainly gold. Often, when a ship was due in or spotted, the word would go out and locals would gather at the spit, to place bets on whether a boat or ship would make it into the the river. Early sports betting with a touch of schadenfreude!

    We discovered that Hokitika is the location of The Luminaries, a Booker Prize novel by Eleanor Catton - the story set in 1866, and follows Walter Moody, a prospector who travels to Hokitika to make his fortune on the goldfields. He stumbles into a tense meeting between twelve local men, and resulting involvement in a complex mystery involving a series of unsolved crimes. Sounds intriguing and has been added to our audio book library!

    A hive of galleries encompassing wood, glass and greenstone (Pounamu) jewellery and sculptural art, many using traditional Māori motives and cultural influences. Pounamu is a term for several types of hard and durable stone (type of jade) found in the South Island, and highly valued here. Carvings made from pounamu play an important role in Māori culture.

    We explored a bit by bike on arrival, heading out to Sunset Point and along the beach promenade and checked out the Heritage Trail and various historical buildings.

    We browsed in some of the galleries that were open. The greenstone is truly beautiful and can vary in shade and appearance from dark green to a more milky green and can be solid or translucent.

    We called in to Bonz ‘n’ Stonz so Lilz could book a slot to have a go at stone cutting and polishing for the following day, to work up a stone of Serpentine kindly gifted by Matt, who me met the evening before at the Lake.

    A brief coffee stop at Cafe 39 and then we checked into our stay for the next two nights. The usual unpacking, washing and drying ensued, taking up the rest of day one, other than a visit to the Supermarket (New World) which seems to be our go to for provisions and was just over the road.

    On Day 2 of Hokitika, and off to The Wild Outdoorsman (Lilz fave type of shop) to pick up our stove parts ordered a while back in Wānaka. The helpful guys in the shop let us check the parts were right and worked, which was nice.

    Popped into Bonz ‘n’ Stonz - Lilz enjoyed his hour of zen like calm, working up a stone on the grinding wheels helped out by Steve and the friendly staff, whilst Amanda pottered around town.
    After, we walked along the beach taking in the huge amount of gnarly driftwood, shaped by the sea and washed up. They have a Festival in January each year at Hokitika Beach, participants are invited to express themselves using beach-finds. Artists and public work side by side with professionals turning driftwood and other materials they find on the beach into sculptural pieces.
    Some of these remained albeit in a dilapidated condition with some still recognisable and others returning to be a pile of sticks. We had a go and created a sort of dog.

    Leaving Hokitika:

    Up early, Amanda visited the Glow Worm Dell at dawn where she witnessed the undergrowth lit by these little luminous creatures. We packed, shopped, made a packed lunch with some hard-boiled eggs to take with us. The ride will be around 34 miles and we identified a spot in mind to wild camp for the evening, to split the ride and try to avoid the upcoming weather front due to arrive in the next couple of days.

    A nice place, Hokitika.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Rowi kiwi wombling up and down in front of the glass inches from Lilz. We watched him for ages.
    Kiwi lay huge eggs - x-ray shows egg inside female. Equivalent human birthing 6yr old child1Looks like the habitat of a T-RexWhataroaHari Hari park artHari Hari Hotel's warm bar1Tent ice1Hari Hari camp4Amanda rolls along Highway 6 which penetrates thick, dense bush, dark and lush.Sun came out to dry up all the rainLilz having lunch in the sunRoss teapot gardenTeapots! Loads of them. Short and stout.Motorcycle museum in Ross2Needs a bit of oilRoss's old Historic Empire Hotel3We had a ball in Ross' goldfieldsThe stillness of the lake in the evening sunset1Sunset over Lake Mahinapua

    Franz Josef to Lake Mahinapua

    19–21 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    19 June - Franz Josef. Heavy rain thundered on the roof all night and continued through the day: it can really rain here! Perfect day to visit an indoor attraction: the West Coast Wildlife Centre. Happily watched two Rowi kiwi snuffling about in the dim light of the nocturnal house. We were enchanted - the smallest kiwi is much larger than we were both expecting the birds to be, with an earthy mushroomy smell, and an eerie call that we realised we’d heard before whilst camping. They sound like the stabbing shower scene music in Hitchcock’s ‘Psycho’. So glad we cleared that sound up!

    20 June - Cycled to Hari Hari. Rain came down hard in the night - woke listening to it snug amongst the warm covers. There is nothing like feeling safe and warm in bed with the elements being elemental outside. As we cycled today, the rain came and went. As it eased off we climbed a brutal switchback hill before Hari Hari. Reaching Hari Hari we enjoyed the community mosaic art in the local park, and info boards on Guy Menzies, the Australian 21-year-old aviator who made the first solo flight across the Tasman Sea to NZ in 1931, crash landing in a swamp near Hari Hari.

    We pulled into Hari Hari Hotel, a no-nonsense, no-frills place, with little welcome as the proprietor silently took us down back corridors of the run down hotel to show us the shower/toilet we could use (in an old disused room) and where we could camp (effectively the pub car park). Setting up camp on the sodden grass was very depressing - but the upside was hot food in the warm bar and an unusual ‘veggie burger’ experience (fried egg, tinned pineapple slice, pickled beetroot, lettuce). The place was packed with a hunting party and a handful of locals. The tent when we went to bed was dripping with moisture and starting to freeze.

    21 June - Hari Hari to Lake Mahinapua. Was grim packing up as the tent and bikes were covered in a hard icy frost. We both wrestled with frozen fingers and being dispirited. Once on the bikes the mood lifted and greeted the warm sunshine, with a long panorama of mountains with their white peaks stretching out behind us. Cycling through tall thick bush was made magical with the sun piercing through the foliage. Had lunch on the beach. We enjoyed the quirky gold rush town of Ross when we reached it - a front garden full of teapots, a colourful historic pub, closed motorcycle museum, and closed gold mining visitor centre. Amazing to see old photos of Ross as it grew in the gold rush, with a peak of 3000 people in its heyday. Now a sleepy village of 300 people there are still some employed at the (much smaller) gold mine, with most people in farming and moss-picking (for Japanese orchid growers!).

     10 more miles to the DoC campsite on the coast at Lake Mahinapua. We met Matt, who came over bearing cup-a-soup and told us of his 4-week holiday travelling with his family - wife and two girls - from most northerly to most southerly lighthouse. He’s not had an easy life, with experience of the army in Afghanistan, a death of a son, and discrimination for the colour of his skin. A very spiritual man he told Lilz he had good energy and gave him a stone. Beautiful encounters like this are very special.

    Before bed we went down the to lakeshore and the water was so inky and still that the Milky Way was reflected in the water. I was looking down at the stars! Was totally bewitching and I was spellbound by the beauty of it. What a place.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    1
    1Bruce BayBruce BayMāori cemeteryMemorial church lunch spotFont detail4Spot the little rubber duckie in the reed reflection on the water1Creepie hut...1Fox GlacierMt Tasman (left, 3497). Mt Cook (right, 3724m)2Lake Matheson. "Look deep into nature and then you will understand everything better" EinsteinLake Matheson4Three jolly hills...2Waaaaaaah!You can't see, but we could see the road we'd been cycling from the sea1Lilz in Glacier CountryMt Elie de BeaumontFranz Josef glacier1Love these photos. Makes me feel so much more equipped. Or maybe I should have a bonnet...?

    Fox Glacier (no mints) to Franz Josef

    17–18 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    17 June - The morning at Lake Paringa Campsite was bitter damp cold which gets into your fingers and makes packing the tent away hard. Was glad to get back on the bike to get the blood circulating.

    After 5 miles we were pulling into a remote cafe - the only one on this stretch of road: seemed rude not to - and got chatting to Matthew. From Cumbria, he’d been working at the cafe for the last 18 months after seeing the job advertised on a backpacker info board in Auckland. He loved it - the remoteness, the pristine environment, the sense of community amongst the few who lived there. They get their post twice a week and he does his food shop in Wānaka 125 miles away. He told us the road we just cycled from Wānaka hadn’t been built until 1968, and wasn’t completely sealed until 1995.

    Back on the road and the sun started to shine through the cloud cover. Some great wild mountain scenery as we crossed bridges over large braided rivers. Hit the coast at Bruce Bay where driftwood littered the huge sweep of beach. Passed a Maori burial site at Urupa and then a small Anglican Church, or at least its memorial as the original was destroyed in a cyclone in 2018. Found it very peaceful and graceful - had our lunch there.

    Coming into Fox Glacier we could just see the glacier glowing brightly in the sunlight above the cloud line.

    18 June - Shorter cycling day today - 22 miles compared to yesterday’s 44 - as we wanted to do a side trip to Lake Matheson in the morning, and the road over to Franz Josef consists of three big hills.

    Waking to a sharp clear morning we had stunner views of Aoraki (Mt Cook: NZ’s highest mountain) and Mt Tasman. In their blazing white livery, they presented as majestic against the bluest empty sky.

    We were at the lake early, a sheen of mist still burning off. Quiet of tourists, but not of the loud flotilla of honking geese. For 1.5hrs we walked around the lake taking in the changing views of the mountains reflected in the still waters - Lake Matheson is known as a photographic icon and it didn’t disappoint. Very peaceful. Very beautiful.

    Three large hills later - great to look back at the road we’d travelled - we were treated to more stunning snowy mountain views: this time of Mt. Elie de Beaumont, and then the Franz Josef glacier itself. Stopping in Franz for two nights in a motel as heavy rain is forecast, and we want to see the rescue kiwis: a good chance to rest the legs.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    2FOOD! This made me laugh. The only sign a touring cyclist ever wants to see! (Coming into Haast)2Play on NZ known as the Land of the long white cloud1Crossing the Haast River2On Ship Creek beach: you can just see a pair of Hector's Dolphins dorsal fins3Fantails were ever present, keeping close company.1Golden sedge, and kahikatea peeking aboveShip Creek beach stretched wonderfully on and on1Lilz silhouetted against the sea sprayFantails never stop movingWee fantail a-top the 'eye' of some sculptural driftwood.Bands of green1Woven wild flax weave1Tall towering ancient kahikatea11You can just see Lilz bottom right - still doesn't give a sense of towering height of these giants1All shapes and textures of greenery everywhere you looked1Tiny red plane dead centre...Paringa. DoC campsites are great. Free/cheap and often have toilets and sheltered picnic benches

    Haast to Lake Paringa

    16 giugno 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Reaching the west coast feels like a milestone and our first day cycling alongside the Tasman Sea enjoyed bright sunshine.

    When you’re always moving and don’t have a home I’m learning I need to live in the moment more (hard for a planner like me). I’m starting to really appreciate unexpected gifts that come to me, in contrast to those anticipated on the route. Ship Creek came along as one of those gifts, a beautiful surprise ten miles from Haast. Days on I still hold a parcel of the peace the place offered and instilled in me: I hope I always will.

    At Ship Creek we were greeted by fluttering Fantails fussing around us as we secured the bikes. Lovely characterful wee birds we delight in their quick acrobatics and how close they come: landing on my feet. Walking along the boardwalk we could hear the pounding surf, and reaching the sand Lilz caught sight of black rounded dorsal fins skirting the beach. Hector’s Dolphins! Just beyond the breakers the world's smallest (1.5m) and one of the rarest dolphins - 7000 individuals live only in NZ, 75% on this coast - were cruising the nearshore waters in front of us.

    The beach itself stretched to the horizon, encased by the sequence of golden sedge, wind-clipped forest, and hazy mountains, and was littered with fantastic sculptural driftwood and pebbles (only pocketed one or two).

    When the sandflies (like midges) drove us from the bright shore, we delved into the dark interior of a remnant swamp grove behind the beach. A different place of magic. In South Westland, one tree towers over all others - the kahikatea. NZ’s tallest tree, its straight distinctive silhouette reaches for the sky up to 65 metres above its buttressed roots, that interlock with their neighbours’ to hold themselves upright in the bog. Kahikatea swamp forests are now rare. Demand for timber and land for agriculture (largely dairy farms) have seen these forest giants hacked away and their wetlands drained. Their pale, odourless timbers were perfect for packaging butter and cheese as they did not taint or stain the produce, and from the early 1900s the ancient kahikatea trunks were fashioned into millions of crates to service dairy exports from New Zealand to Britain. By the late 1940s kahikatea covered areas had slid into mythical status.

    But at Ship Creek a sliver remains and what a beautiful place of respite it is: a breathing space of indescribable variety of green life. Lilz described it as one of the best places he’d ever been, and it had such calming effect on us both.

    Reluctantly leaving our coastal paradise (it was now past 2pm and we still had 20 miles to go) we climbed several hills - giving glimpses of sparkly ocean behind us - and arrived at inland Paringa Lake as chilly dusk fell. For once, we weren’t the only ones at the Department of Conservation campsite and it felt strange to hear human hubbub amongst the nightly nature sounds.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Lake Hāwea Trail
    Lake Hāwea Trail1Lunch spot by the weirMountain View2Approaching Kidds Bush camp groundMan, make fire good. First use of liquid fuel!3Amanda by star light.2The Possum Party Hut. We had camped next to this on the right.1Tuck tries his big eyed sorrowful look but is forbidden to tuck-inMakarora Cafe number plate decorNothing but trees for milesIll advised diversion. Retreat back to tarmac.Boardwalk to the Blue Pools1Blue River reflections6The Blue Pools2Cameron Flat camp spot as the sun goes down3Thunder Creek Falls2Haast River, vast glacial valleyCamping kit chaos at the motel. Drying out in the evening sun.How to make a tidy room untidy.

    To Haast, with haste, across the divide

    13–15 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Making for the West Coast Region and Haast, through the Haast Pass, we left Wanaka using a shared bike path, taking us out of town and then onto another part of the Clutha River Track, joining the Hāwea River Track, all the way to Lake Hāwea. It was a super nice off-
    road track along the fast clear and blue flowing river and we found a nice spot to eat our packed lunch (out of NZ Tupperware, some of you will be pleased to know). Back on tarmac after a stop at the Hāwea Store & Kitchen, sitting outside in the afternoon sun, the route then followed State Highway 6.

    Camp for the night was the Department of Conservation (DoC) ground at Kidds Bush, along the Hunter Valley on the North side of the large lake formed by the Hāwea Dam. After another ~29Km and a few hills, of course. Stunning views along the lake and quiet highway made for a nice cycle (other than the pushing up the few steep inclines). Pulling off the highway, that last bit along the Hunter Valley road was dirt, newly laid and quite ‘clarty’ - we were slow and the surface and tired legs meant we dragged ourselves into the small camp ground with porta-toilets, a covered picnic bench and sink as dusk hit. A very cold, damp and dank evening. The beautiful Milky Way and Southern Cross, overhead - a companion for several of our camps. A visit from a possum in the early hours with its head under the tent apron sniffing around our bagged food was a surprise. It appeared bold as brass, unconcerned by my
    ‘Shooing’. Also evident by lots of possum pee all over the sinks. Possum party maybe?
    Early start, next morning and brekky of gruel, eaten cold (we call it gruel - but it’s a nice mix of oats, granola, apple juice, and mixed berry puree).

    Rejoining Highway 6, initially alongside Lake Wanaka which again provided some epic panoramas. A welcome stop at the Makarora Country Cafe & Camp for a ‘nose bag’ (second breakfast and brew). A pie, coffee and a tray bake guzzled by an open fire, served by the lovely owner and under the watchful eye of the resident cafe dog, Tuck, who gave us the big eyes but was under strict instruction from his human that human food was not good for him.

    Onward - following the Makarora River to DoC Cameron Flat campsite. We arrived with light and quickly parked the bikes at the sheltered kitchen area and fired across the road to walk the 3km return track to the Blue Pools, through mature beech forest to the swing bridge and viewpoint for the clear blue water. And it really was beautifully blue!! The blue water is a result of light refraction on the clear snow-fed icy cold water and we could see large trout languishing in the current below.

    Back to the bikes as the sun set with light now tickling the mountain tops and temperature dropping, with cold hands, hard to unpack and set up camp. We made a noodles and veg tea (hot food is such a boost).

    Why…when it is cold and you are in your tent and have taken an age to get set and you are warm and cosy, do you need to get up to pee? Even though you have been at least twice, and one of those a ‘safety pee’.?!

    Awoke to a cold morning. Next section was to cycle the Haast Pass, our 2nd Pass but at a lower elevation.
    Crossing from Otago to the West Coast Region there was a very steep descent from the summit (glad we rode East-West and not the other way!) that was claustrophobic as the road squeezed between the mountain folds and river. We viewed several waterfalls along our route with wonderful names including Fantail Falls, Thunder Creek Falls and Roaring Billy.

    The landscape felt Jurassic and then majestic full-on LOTR as the glacial valley opened up, with the braided river bed a mile wide, coloured a rocky grey and a sight to see making a vast furrow that meets the Tasman Sea.

    The last 10 miles was tough but flat as we made for our overnight. We booked a motel stop in Haast as a treat after the camping and pass. Our ‘treats’ always end up adminy with drying of wet gear and clothes, washing our pots in hot water, washing smalls, washing ourselves, maxing WiFi use (Penguin catchup!) and charging all our electricals. We had dinner in the motel pub which served great hearty food. Tomorrow we start the next section of the journey, North along the West Coast.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Our local friendly Cat
    Cloud inversion1Shake on itLucky to get a wee window in the gloom1For the Wasters out there - found some great refill places: so useful to top up just what we need.Downtown WanakaPersistent wee birds - Amanda gets mugged by the Sparrow Gang1Give us a crumb645 tiles mark the Te Ara Maumahara pathway, which acts as a memory lane, noting significant eventsThe lakefront with Lake Wanaka behindBig gum treeThe Lady of the LakeThat Wanaka Tree. Most Popular but not a Poplar tree 2022 - 20242The Tree (no people!)2The National Trust amongst others rejuvenating the indigenous trees and shrubs3Amanda visits the local Cinema (like our Cameo). Note it's not a Drive-In1Trying to fathom the use of liquid fuel for our stove after our canister valve failed1The Lake and distant mountains on a sunnier, less grey day

    Wanaka

    10–13 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We reached Wanaka after a long previous day and traverse of the Lindis Pass. The 53 mile day prayed heavily on our legs and the final ride into Wanaka via Albert was via a trail more suited to a mountain bike. Safe to say we were both pretty ‘gubbed’ by the time we arrived at the AirBnB. We looked forward to a couple of days off the bikes and to replenish our energy levels.
    Wanaka has a resort feel and sits on the edge of the lake of the same name. It seems to cater for the outdoor type but seems a bit more relaxed and tranquil compared to Queenstown. We’d imagine that it’s banging on the summer with boating, water ski and other water based pursuits and also in winter with skiing, snowboarding, such is its proximity to Mount Aspiring National Park - an area of mountains, lakes and forest, with many walking trails and peaks to climb and frolic upon.
    We arrived in shoulder season month, so it was ticking over with camper van tourists but not massively busy. We rented a small house up the hill out of town, nice and quiet and perfect to base ourselves at.
    The lake is surrounded by hills and with mountains in the distance offers spectacular views. Unfortunately, due to the time of year and climate, it often experiences cloud inversions and the low formed cloud obscures the tops as it did while we were there - only teasing views of the snowy caps.
    It has a famous tree, which has probably been photographed and Instagrammed a million times. Apparently it grew from a sapling seeded in a fence post. It sits on its root island on the shoreline and offers us all a tree ‘money shot’ with its delicate bonsai pose and serene backdrop. You can easily find it. Just look along the shore to the west side of the lake for a largish gathering of people* and that’s your tree location!
    *yes - we went to it to photograph it too. How could we not. It is one of those things you have to do for fear of missing out!

    Ode to Mount Aspiring National Park:
    O’ Mount Aspiring,
    Thou art so inspiring,
    That you would cause us much perspiring!
    Our thighs, our knees and buttocks, the muscles all firing.
    The long roads, gradual ascents and hills hidden behind corners,
    Make us wish a car, we were hiring.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    1Clay Cliffs seen from highway 8 on our climb towards Lindis Pass
    We didn't take the misnamed Short Cut RoadMaybe Thom and Sexy Pete having a rest1Snowy Mountains (no Tolkien reference here)2Almost there! You can see the Summit Lookout if you follow the road to its end.2Visions of FrodoLooking back at our efforts from the Summit Lookout11Wee snowman, with the road just about to descend in the background.The dirt road taking us away from the highway went over hills with sweeping valley views.Still looking for a camp spot...Our camp spot - the tent just squeezed in under the trees, sheltered from the road.2Breakfast above the river on the Upper Clutha River TrailClutha River as the sun comes upLilz cycling along on the river ridge.The Clutha River starts at Wānaka and meets the Pacific south of Dunedin

    Lindis Pass and Upper Clutha River

    9–10 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    9 June - Lindis Pass. It has loomed large in our minds for the last few days. The highest point on the South Isle’s highways at 971 m (3,186 ft), we needed to cross it on our route over to Wānaka. Covered in snow it had been too dangerous for us to attempt, but now the snow had melted… it was time.

    Found it hard from the start. A long, long straight road leads you in, energy-sapping in its ever-so-slight but relentless crawl uphill (imperceptible to a driver), before the gradient increases up into the mountain folds. Although a hard slog, the gradual climb meant the Pass felt manageable and we reached the Lookout Point at noon, feeling elated, to join the other tourists taking photos.

    Wrapping up well we plunged down the other side, which was steep and freezing cold. The sun couldn’t reach the road over the mountains and the world became a blur of blue and grey as the icy wind whipped past as we hurtled down. It felt quite hazardous trying not to skid in the loose scree at the side of the road, or lose our cool when the few trucks thundered past. Glad to reach the lower levels, where the sun found us making it considerably warmer and we started to thaw out.

    We were happy to finally leave hwy 8 and join a dirt road that took us up through high sheep country, with wide sweeping views across the valley. Looking for a place to wild camp nothing appeared and we had to rejoin the highway. Dusk was upon us and the tank was empty. As the sun dramatically edged the darkening mountains on the horizon in gold, we found a less-than-ideal camp spot amongst some trees. Trying to cook, we realised our stove was broken - the thread on the gas canister valve was worn out and we could no longer attach the gas. Glumly, we chewed cold cheese rolls in the dark tent before bedding down.

    10 June - Having survived the possums through the night, we were up before light to collapse the tent and get away lickety split. Only stopped for breakfast once we had reached the Upper Clutha River trail and could leave the highway once more. Had watery, but welcome, oats at a bench overlooking a horseshoe bend in the river far below. The river was wild: huge and deep and fast, cutting a deep swathe through the land, and the rising sun was fiery in an otherwise grey expanse. A beautiful start to the day!

    Enjoyed cycling above the river. The trail was long - with the river as company all the way - sometimes taking us down to the fast flowing turquoise water, sometimes taking us back to the river’s ridgeline. With lots of stoney scree and large bouldery pebbles making it almost impossible to cycle it was hard going and Maybe Thom hated it. Reaching a patisserie in Albert Town was the. most. welcome thing. Amanda was beyond hangries, poor Lilz. From there it was an easy roll to our Airbnb in Wānaka which was an absolute treat. Never before been so excited to have pizza and wine and a film. The simple things truly are the best.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Welcome shelter for afternoon brew.
    Elephant Rocks lit up by the setting sun was the highlight on our first day on the A2O1Merino or not? Chewing it over...Steve, who let us stay in the camp hut, pictured outside the old blacksmiths, with his horseGetting cosy for the night ahead in Duntroon's camp hut. Thanks Steve!3Love a good guest book - Duntroon campsite's didn't disappoint!Making friends with Duntroon's first pioneersAmazingly preserved blacksmiths in Duntroon1Amanda gets her feet wet on creek crossing!Lake WaitakiGum tree beauty1Lake Aviemore1Benmore DamCan you spot Lilz?1

    Inland on the Alps2Ocean trail

    5–10 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    New Zealanders, although not great cyclists - only 18% regularly ride a bike compared to global average of 35% - have created an amazing ‘Great Rides’ infrastructure of off-road cycle trails crisscrossing the country which we’re really enjoying. We made use of the ‘Alps 2 Ocean’ (A2O) bike trail from Oamaru to Omarama for 160km/100miles heading back inland on our way over to the west coast.

    5 June - It was exciting to see the Southern Alps in the distance with dustings of snow. Quiet roads and tracks through agricultural countryside at first, with groups of wee birds flitting from hedge to fencing keeping us company as we pedalled. As the day wore on the landscape became more varied and interesting with limestone outcrops and cliffs. Elephant Rocks lit up by the setting sun was the day’s highlight, before rolling into Duntroon campground as it was getting dark. With minus degrees and snowfall forecast that night, Steve - the caretaker who made his living doing saddlery and livery (!) - kindly let us sleep in the camp hut. No heating, but warmer than our tent, and a wonderful guest book to read and keep up our spirits!

    6 June - We woke to a bright clear perfectly crisp winter morning (no snow!) and enjoyed exploring Duntroon village - with sculptures honouring the first pioneers, fossil museum, sink hole, amazingly preserved blacksmiths, old gaol, English-looking church, Flying Pig cafe, and community wetlands. We had lovely friendly chats with locals - Peter and Trevor - who, interested in us as a new spectacle in the village, came over to speak to us. An easy day cycling took us up to Kurow, only 15 miles away, over some streams forded with freezing feet. Defrosted slowly in a motel, with rain thundering down outside.

    7 June - A sunny cold morning slid into a grey afternoon taking us along edges of big expanses of water - Lake Waitaki and Lake Aviemore - with blue skies and wintery mountains icily reflected. We crossed a series of hydro power dams (57% NZ electricity needs are supplied by hydro), with the last and largest, Benmore Dam, pretty impressive. Lilz remarked it looked like something out of Star Wars - could imagine starships flying out.

    8 June - Climbing back up to Benmore dam from Otematata where we’d stayed, we continued up past the dam, going up, up, and then over, with views unfolding around each tight high corner. Far from any roads, the A2O took us around a remote peninsula where we were treated to cycling along the foreshore of Lake Benmore, in full sunshine, no other soul, framed by snowy peaks on all sides. Was stunning and a lot of fun! Powering up to Omarama the temperature was now perceptibly colder and the mountains a lot whiter. Luckily, the snow that had fallen heavily a few days ago had now cleared on the road over Lindis Pass enabling us to stick to our plan to cycle over and reach Wānaka on the other side. Feeling a little bit daunted tbh.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Ōmarau harbour at night
    Limestone liveryIt has some hillsBuilding used by Snooker and Billiards Association1Old timey shop fronts1Main high streetThe old bank of NZ (left) and Australian Mutual & Provident (right)1More painful than it looks1Steampunk HeadquartersMachines of SteampunkNuff said1Bosca (the gorilla) by Chris Meder1Amanda enters 'The Portal'2Upcycled crab creation by Chris MederInside Steampunk HQMad MaxEasy riderA nice sentimentYou looking at me!?

    Ōamaru

    3–5 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We arrived in Ōamaru via the coast road from Dunedin after our previous nights stay. We decided to spend a night in town, which enabled us to do some washing and plan the next section of our journey, when we will again be off-roading and picking up the Alps-to-Ocean (A2O) Great Ride, for about 160Km (about half of the full route, all being well) and will be in need of some thought, due to possible inclement weather approaching.
    Õamaru is clustered around a harbour and backed by hills (it’s a former deep water port for this part of North Otago, but now only used by fishing boats and leisure craft).
    Architecturally wonderful, with a mix of Victorian era buildings built from limestone. Many of the building edifices are
    carved or signed with the names of various banks, proprietors and other civic organisations. Next to them are the later 1900’s buildings and more modern structures. It has a seaside town sort of feel with some industrial heritage . Many of the machines driving industry here were powered by water motors fed by a water system created by an engineer to pipe a new water supply from far up in the hills.
    The train line runs right through town and the frequent good trains punctuate the day as they pass through the open level crossings.
    It has a Heritage Precinct which we explored and this Whitestone City, born of prosperity of the mid 1800’s - supporting grain, wool and meat production in the surrounding areas, is now home to artists - we noticed many galleries and boutiques.
    It is the centre of Steampunk
    (which draws inspiration from Victorian-era design and technology, imagined in a world where steam power and other mechanical inventions have advanced further and encompasses fantasy and science fiction, with advanced technology and alternate histories - we learned).
    Visiting the interactive museum housed in an old grain elevator building was a highlight, with many artworks by local and international artists, including a local sculptor and artist called Chris Meder, who sadly died aged 39. His metal creations of animals were wonderful and his love of bringing old and broken bits of metal machinery back to life to form new works that are full of character and this shines through in his animal sculptures.
    Unlike anything we have been to, it’s a unique experience, and alongside sculptures, it housed imagined technology, interactive displays and fashion, all within a retro-futuristic vibe.
    Ōamaru is home to the annual Steampunk NZ Festival (we just missed it by a day 😞 as we rolled in just after the Bank Holiday Weekend) It attracts Steampunk enthusiasts from around the world.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Ambling into Port Chalmers
    Port Chalmers from the Scott monument. Enjoyed watching all the containers being moved (left pic)1Lovely Dee and Mark who we chatted with in Union Co Cafe1Scott monument viewpointSteeper than it appears (honest)!Stunning views across the bay and peninsula to reward the climbWarrington beachSpaceship House (a Futuro House)KaritaneYumbo hot soup!Deciding on our second tent pitch a bit further from the shoreline!2Breakfast at Shag Point. No birds (shags) and no sexy time. Just porridge and fur seals.2Fur seals at Shag Point as we ate our breakfastSun rising over Maybe Thom and Sexy Pete.Moeraki Boulders4One more pebble for AmandaInside a boulder!2Huge chicken hedge!!!

    East coast: Port Chalmers - Oamaru

    1–3 giu 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Cycling the 80ish miles up the east coast from Port Chalmers to Oamaru has been full of delights: lovely folk, fur seals, giant pebbles.

    Sun 1 June: Port Chalmers to Warrington…
    We ambled into Port Chalmers on a sunny morning. Dunedin’s port town, it is interesting to watch the port mechanics: the heavy machinery manoeuvring timber and containers ready to be loaded onto waiting tankers. To brace ourselves for the big climb ahead (4miles up 1190ft) we stopped for coffee in the Union Co Cafe, a community hub. Here we met lovely Dee and Mark who we had an interesting wide-ranging conversation with and who convinced us to visit places ahead: including Oamaru which we hadn’t intended including in our route.

    The hill was tough, but it was sunny and we enjoyed colourful sweeping views across the bay and peninsula. We ate our sandwiches at the Captain Scott monument - Port Chalmers is where he set off from for both his trips to the Antarctic. Nice roll through the countryside down the other side of the hill, joining highway 1 for a bit before turning off to make our way to the free council campsite at Warrington Domain. Walked along the beach and cooked noodles by our tent in the dark. A chilly cold dank night.

    Mon 2 June: Warrington to Shag Point…
    Stunning views over Karitane, where, when we reached it, we lingered enjoying hot soup at the lovely general store/cafe. After a long cycle along Highway 1 we realised we weren’t going to make the campsite we’d planned to reach and so in the dark we opted to wild camp at Shag Point. We had to move the tent from its first pitch, as we realised seals were nearby and felt we were too close to the shoreline for comfort! All through the night we heard the seal calls and their very human sounding coughs!

    Tues 3 June: Shag Point to Oamaru...
    Packed the tent up in the dark and had breakfast up on the Point. Looking out across the sea to the rising sun to our left, and watching the 20+ fur seals waking up to our right, bathed in orange morning light. Marvelled as we watched the seals quickly manoeuvre over the rocks - how high they can climb, to loll on the top of the cliff in the grass like solid velvety slugs. Their calls are eery - like nothing you’d expect from a seal. These moments seem unreal, like living someone else’s life you read about.

    We reached the Moeraki Boulders at 10am. Loved them! So strange and unique. Exposed by the erosion of surrounding mudstone the large spherical boulders are made up of a calcite cement shell that formed around pebbles: as the process continues they ‘grow’ larger. Cracks form and are infilled with calcite crystals - visible as striking patterns on their otherwise smooth surface. Erosion has left the harder boulders behind on the beach for us to play with and enjoy.

    Reached Oamaru late afternoon, where we plan to stay for two nights before heading inland along the Alps2Ocean bike trail.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    111

    Dunedin

    30 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Our day in Dunedin was wintery cold but bright and sunlit. Which was great for pottering about discovering all the street art. Loved the architectural mishmash of the small city centre - colonial grandeur, 1930s chic, industrial warehouse. The railway station - which only services one intermittent ‘experience’ train (no regular passenger services) - takes pride of place in the city and is so grand with its mosaic floors, stained glass, and swirling ironmongery. Only there for a short while, but Dunedin we like you, a lot.Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    1Hello there...don't mind me...
    New Zealand Fantail1Sandfly BeachSea lions as the big dark slugs on the beach.1Big fella is going to find a sleepy hollow4Makes me sad. This sea lion did chase the closest man away. But exhausted him. 😞Yawn.... I am tiredSeal Lion roly-poly1Wants you to tickle his tummyFlipping us the flipper!

    Sea Lions (Pakake)

    29 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    From our Airbnb in Pukehiti we walked down to Sandfly Beach to see if we could see any Sea Lions.

    Pakake are the rarest Sea Lion in the world. They once lived all around New Zealand's coast, but were hunted to near extinction over 200 years ago for their fur (after the sea otter they have the densest warmest fur of any mammal). A small and slowly declining population survived in the harsh environment of the subantarctic islands. From there, and after a long absence, Pakake are returning to this coast to breed. Pakake rest on the shore to recover from deep sea diving for food. Rest replenishes oxygen levels in their muscles and builds insulating fat layers.

    It was recommended that humans stay back more than 10 metres from sleeping sea lions to allow them to rest, and that if are in a group, not to surround the animals. Sadly some humans present on the beach didn’t comply with this, getting ‘in the face’ of the sea lions: which just enrages me.

    Adult males range between 2.5-3.5m and can weigh up to 350kg. They are quite formidable. I almost thought Lilz was a goner at one point when a sea lion walked right up to him (see the vid)!! He was about 15-20m away but the angle foreshortened the distance from where I was sitting so I was quite frightened for him!

    We liked watching them roll around waving their flippers in the air. They also looked so tired: they would just dramatically flop onto the sand immobile when they came out of the sea.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Look out Amanda.....
    Views of the Otago PeninsulaOur speed would not trouble any ducks1I see no Lions. I mean Sea LionsAn Albatross chick sits patiently1One of the birds I have always wanted to see and I feel privileged to have done so1Me holding a full sized chick prop weighing 10kgs. One heavy baby!1The world’s largest seabird with wingspans reaching 3.5metres2😞2Pictures of the rangers in the centre give you a sense of the size of them! Huge!How to weigh an Albatross 1011Albatross pair up for life, living up to 60 years old and return to the area every 2 yearsTo stay hydrated they have a special gland in their head to desalinate sea water & salt excretedSpend 85% of their time out at sea.22 albatross species, 19 in the southern hemisphere (2 in the north are based near Hawaii).Well adapted to life at sea, they have a tendon along their back that locks their wings in placeOn the lookout for penguins on the beach belowPenguin peek-a-boo1Fur Seals, up close

    Albatross!!!

    28 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Seeing an albatross was one of the main reasons I (Amanda) wanted to visit New Zealand. The Royal Albatross Centre is the only mainland place in the world where you can easily see them. I just love this amazing poetic bird. A sleek, totally efficient, dodo-like dynamic creature soaring effortlessly above the water. And the chicks are huge, fluffy, white lumps of cuteness. What’s not to love?

    We cycled the 10 miles to The Royal Albatross Centre right at the tip of Taiaroa Head* taking in beautiful views across the peninsula, surrounded by sea and green (*the centre is at the top of a hill climb).

    Tabatha, our guide took us up to the viewing room where we saw about 8 x four month old chicks. So big! So fluffy! The rangers weigh them regularly to check their health - these ones ranged between 7-10kg.

    We had a Triple Combo ticket so went from the Albatross Centre to Monarch Wildlife Cruises. Water in the bay was calm and so clear. Saw the chicks up on the headland, and some adults up close - Royal North, White Capped and Bullers (yellow beak). They gave us a fly by and then landed and stared at us humans in the boat. We also saw some Dusky dolphins very briefly under the boat.

    Quick cycle (uphill, of course) to the OPERA centre for 3.45pm (Otago Peninsula Eco Restoration Alliance). Adrian our guide took us up in a minibus over to the reserve where there are very rare Yellow Eyed Penguins, Little Blue Penguins and Fur Seals. There is only a small population of 1500 Yellow Eyed’s left in the world, with 500 based in this area (who are likely to go extinct in the next 10-20 years). We saw one far away on the beach below, and another two in the rehabilitation area.

    Cycling back in the dark (via Portobello village - also by the sea at home in Edinburgh) and up the big hill to our base at Putehiki , I was filled with such a contented calm feeling. What an amazing day: we were incredibly fortunate to see these beautiful and rare birds and mammals.

    Lilz got to tick one of his bucket list birds off! One he has wanted to see but thought he never would, outside of a David Attenborough doc.

    “At length did cross an Albatross,
    Thorough the fog it came;
    As if it had been a Christian soul,
    We hailed it in God's name.”

    (From the Rime of The Ancient Mariner)    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    Pukehiki library11Tin of haggis for £7.50 that we saw in the Scotland shop in Dunedin. Alongside the £2.50 irnbruMaggies - cafe recommend to us by Angus (our lovely Airbnb host)Dunedin lights seen from our Airbnb in Pukehiki

    Pukehiki

    27–31 mag 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A special mention for this wee Airbnb where we stayed for 4 nights (originally booked for 2) and where our host, Angus, looked after us so well and made us feel at home. Thanks Angus for your warm welcome, hospitality, and tips for our journey to come!
    We loved your cafe recommendation: ‘Maggies’ in Dunedin which was a great place and full of character.
    The house was perfect for us and cosy during the wet day and windy gale! We loved the spectacular views from the garden, and the warbling trill of the Bellbirds (they sound a bit like R2D2).    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    2After our panniers had been whisked away, only for us to hope we would be reunited with them!
    Big Sky Country1The start of the first climb, looking back down at Lilz.3We did a lot of pushing our bikes up the hills!2The ribbon of road behind us as we climb the second big hillArriving in Dunedin!My kind of place. I miss my plants... 🌱How much cake is too much?1Loved the wee sparrows (top right) that cheekily hopped about our crumbsProudly, he holds his bag of dirty clothes (which were v smelly)

    Arrival at Dunedin (Ōtepoti)

    26–27 mag 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Two days to cross the horrendous 2km high hills from Middlemarch down into the fine city of Dunedin and along the Otago Peninsula coastline to Pukehiki, where we are staying for the next few days.

    Luckily, a lady we met outside a cafe in Middlemarch took one look at us and our overly laden bikes and promptly took charge. She volunteered her friend Liz to take our panniers ahead for us on her commute to work. Before we knew it, all our worldly goods were whisked away across the hills to be safely deposited at a cafe in Outram, ready for us to collect once we’d puffed our way up and down the 40 miles between. I never asked her name but we will be endlessly grateful to her. Climbing the hills with all our panniers would have taken us much much longer (and almost killed me).

    Even without having had to carry our panniers over the hardest bits, we were done in by the time we rolled into Dunedin. Here we did essentials: coffee, cake, washing at a laundromat, a food shop, before heading to our Airbnb (which is, of course, at the top of an incredibly steep hill. Took us over an hour to push our bikes all the way up it 😆).    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    The Dunstan House Cafe
    The cafe as it used to look back in the dayClyde StationMy bike a.k.a 'Sexy Pete'Amanda hates gravel but she is smiling so can't be that bad eh?Follow that bikeFirst on-trail coffee!!1Wedderburn Rail StopLoads of these bridges which have been maintained or upgraded to allow bikes to follow the rail.Tom and Karolina's new School House B&B ventureFirst tunnel!1

    Otago Central Rail Trail

    24–26 mag 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Kicking on from the Lake Dunstan Trail, we connected to another trail at the small town of Clyde. We arrived, passing through eerie white cloud above the lake and large dam on our descent into Clyde, where we warmed up with second breakfast (embracing the habits of a Hobbit). Clyde has an old frontier like feel and exists mainly due to the gold rush of the 1860’s which attracted many folk to the area during the gold boom. The town has many traditional buildings, including the less utilised stone and also mud brick. We called in at the local bike shop (Bike it Now!) to try and get mirrors for our bikes and although they had none in stock, Hunter kindly helped us out with a map and some guidance for our route ahead. Very helpful - always good to visit a friendly bike shop.
    We next called at the local store for a few provisions and bumped into a friendly man called John Wilkie, who asked us where we were heading for. John’s ancestors hail from Scotland, and emigrated to New Zealand in the 1800’s and John mentioned that his great, great grandfather was one of eight! John helpfully gave us some tips to easily get into the next stage of our ride. We joined the Otago Rail Trail, the first of NZ long-distance bike routes (the Original Great Ride) following the old 152km line that had been used to transport supplies to and from the gold fields, along with wool, livestock and supplies (1880-1980s). Passing through Alexandra, Chatto Creek and Omakau, we overnighted at a B&B in the town of Lauder (also a town in the Scottish Borders) where we met Tom and Karolina. Tom had spent 6 months cycle touring, travelling from the UK to Central Asia and had some great stories to tell and also useful info. Karolina hailed from the Czech Republic and had travelled solo around NZ. They met and eventually moved to Lauder where they have taken on the B&B at the Old Schoolhouse, after the former owners sold up. They were great hosts and made us feel more than welcome. Thanks Tom and Karolina for your kindness and hospitality. Passing by the settlements of Oturehua, Wedderburn and Ranfurly, through varied and changing terrain was wonderful. Over many bridges and through several tunnels, the information boards along the way, made us feel immersed in the history of the line and surrounding region. What it took to make it and save and transform it into a great path for bikes and people. Last night on the trail was spent sheltering in one of the old ‘stations huts’ - now home to many birds judging by the amount of bird poo! We set up our tent inside the hut, which sheltered us on a wet and windy night.
    The final leg into Middlemarch next morning, stopping for some food and a coffee at the Kissing Gate Cafe, which was most welcome and where our off road trail adventure ended.
    The next stage was along the road and three brutal climbs which Amanda and I both were not looking forward to…more to follow on that.    Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
    We're not too proud to push! 😆Very steep, long hard climbs. Brutal.22The 85.5m-long Hugo suspension bridge, named after an Irish philanthropistWild goats!Camping spot by the lake (later visited by Possums and Wild Pigs!)

    Lake Dunstan Trail

    23–24 mag 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    From our fab camp above the Gibbston River Trail we sped along HWY 6, trying to avoid a gazillion possum roadkills and some large trucks, onward towards the town of Cromwell. We had a break randomly at The Highlands Motorsport Park - the nearest cafe for breakfast. Here we met lovely Steph and Don (who both had just taken a very fast Lamborghini ride around the track). It was lovely to meet them and after ten mins chatting to us, they generously invited us to stay with them when we reach Wellington! We very much hope to take them up on their wonderful and very kind offer and will endeavour not to be too smelly 😊. Joining the Lake Dunstan Trail, we initially rode past vineyards, and then hugged the lakeside. Linking the heritage towns of Cromwell and Clyde, the trail witnesses land shaped by nature and also the gold miners and dam-builders who toiled along it during the last couple of hundred years. We rode along constructed clip-on boardwalks, an 86m suspension bridge, around craggy bluffs, past a floating boat cafe (!) sadly closed, and two very challenging switchback hills. One of which was called the Cairnmuir Ladder - grade 3 in mountain NZ biking parlance but much harder on bike weighing in at 28kg with 20+kg of kit strapped to it! Rising 130 vertical metres over several switch backs it was tough. Our camp at days end was beside the water, with some possums and two noisy feral pig visitors at night! 🫣😳 The wee pig was spotted on a moonlit walk and was bold as brass. Not bothered by our presence at all. The big one may have been its mum and sounded like a T-Rex. Although anything snuffling around outside a tent when you’re in it sounds large! 😆Leggi altro

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    Twin Rivers Trail

    22–24 mag 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    First day cycling! Setting off on our loaded bikes felt pretty momentous. And it was a good start. We are making use of NZ’s brilliant ‘Great Rides’ network of long-distance cycle trails to link up a nearly off-road route from Queenstown on the west to Dunedin on the east coast. First two days were along the Two Rivers Trail to Cromwell, with one wild camp at an excellent remote spot. Exciting Indiana Jones bridges, gold mining history, and we watched someone jump from the Kawarau Bridge, the site of the world's first commercial bungy jumps.Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
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    Milford Sound

    19 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We have truly entered the land of Middle Earth. Forgive the Tolkien reference (soz for the nerd out. It probably won’t be the last time). A side day trip to see one of Earths Wonders - Milford Sound. The preceding cold night with cloudless sky after a wet evening setting up camp meant we woke today with ice on the tent and a necessary defrosting (even the car wouldn’t open). We drove to this vast valley carved by glaciers with walls that rise 1200m from sea level and mountain peaks over a mile high. It feels far away and remote and is south of the 45 degree parallel. Too much to take in and the pics don’t do it justice. Like Scotland but amplified. Similar trees and plants but with some exotic tropical looking plants thrown in, with alpine flowers and shrubs, and mossy woods, where the trees take on a mystical feel (very Entish). We met a strange wingless chicken, which is called a Weka (a flightless bird). Also encountered a lovely man called Geoff. A fellow seasoned cycle tourer from Aberdeenshire who has travelled all over, and is most inspiring gent (74 years young). Now, how to dry a wet tent? Hmmm…..Leggi altro

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    Key Summit, Routeburn Track

    18 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Drove from Te Anau to The Divide today, to walk the very start of the Routeburn Track. The whole 3-day track winds 32km over two spectacular glacier-sculpted sandstone ranges and NZ’s Fiordland’s Darran Mountain granite peaks. It’s wild and I’m in awe of the (beautifully bonneted) folk who pioneered routes here in the 1880s. We just went up to the first summit, a 3hr there-and-back, but was spellbound from the start. We climbed through a magical green world of ferns and moss dripping beech forest, with high mountain peaks peaking through the gaps, to emerge in a huge mountain range panaroma. One of those pinch me days. We camped in Upper Eglington, making friends with a resident robin, and cooked tea in the heavy rain, before curling up under canvas. Perfect.Leggi altro

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  • Big Rambling Ride
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    Arrowtown

    17 maggio 2025, Nuova Zelanda ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We’ve hired a wee car to explore Milford Sound before we set off proper (we start cycling Thursday). 20 mins east of Queenstown we visited Arrowtown, firmly on the tourist trail, being a picturesque gold mining town, established in 1862. Wandering around the restored streets was strange, like being on a film set or in a living museum. Beautiful autumnal colours. I was struck by the haunting tiny huts on the edge of town, hidden in an isolated gully, which made up a ghost settlement of Chinese miners. Victims of harassment and discrimination, they lived on the fringes of the European settlement, and it was frightening to think how cold they must have been in the harsh Otago winters.Leggi altro

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