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St Cuthbert’s Way
  • Susan Wagland
  • Susan Wagland

St Cuthbert’s Way

From Melrose in Scotland, where Cuthbert started his religious life in 650 AD, this 100km (62.5 miles) route ends at Holy Island off the Northumberland Coast, where he was Prior and where a pilgrimage shrine was established. Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 2, 2026
    Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Melrose Abbey at dusk

    Melrose

    August 2 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Arrived in Melrose, Scottish Borders, this evening, to start St Cuthbert's Way tomorrow. After a lot of planning - and finding some already fully booked campsites - I'm ready to start! St Cuthbert was fostered as a child to monks at Melrose Abbey, became a monk there and then Prior.
    At Gibson campsite, I chatted with camper Michael, then ate in the Ship Inn. It's still light here at 9pm. Alison another camper, has been walking and canoeing here and loved it.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    2Throwing stones into the Tweed
    2Throwing stones into the TweedMelrose AbbeyAbbey gardensMelroseNorth EildonHarebellsPant (public) Well, BowdenVery dry Bowden BurnEildon HillsCamping spot, sandstone cliffs on opposite bank

    Riverbank near St Boswells

    August 3 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    They have had less rain than normal here, but it's nothing like the drought in the south of England. It rained on my tent in the night and most fields have new green grass under dried grass. I'm new to wet weather camping. I waited until 8:30 when AccuWeather app said the rain would stop, and it did stop. I wiped down my tent with my small tent wiping sponge and packed up the damp tent. This evening the tent dried very quickly.

    I visited Melrose Abbey, which has an excellent audio guide.

    Setting off from Melrose just before midday, it was dry, cloudy, and a good temperature for walking. The path crosses the Eildon Hills. I wanted to climb the first one but was defeated by gorse and wild raspberries, delicious but thorny, and turned back to the official path.

    I crossed heather, woodland and common grassland and met dog walkers in Bowden.

    After St Boswells, where I bought tea and a caramel doughnut, and quiche for dinner, I found a wild camping spot on the bank of the Tweed. A good day, 24 km.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Tweed, low
    Tweed, lowCrystal WellLilliard's Stone

    Jedburgh

    August 4 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A lovely morning, starting in rain, along the Tweed. Rich landowners built the Crystal Well and a pumping system to raise water to their house. Lilliard's Stone is the tomb of a woman who may have been a fierce fighter against the English in the 16th century, or is maybe a legend.
    I developed a headache and became desperate to reach a garden centre cafe. The rain stopped and it was warm, 25 degrees, and very humid.
    I met three young, friendly northern lads who camped at the other end of my field last night. They were suffering in the heat. They had decided to wild camp this route on a whim, but weren't used to walking.
    Another customer at the garden centre cafe kindly gave me a lift to this campsite. After a rest I'm fine. Abandoned walk at 14 km.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Rain over Town Yetholm
    Rain over Town Yetholm16th century Cessford CastleMorebattle churchWideopen Hill topWith Miles at Wideopen Hill2Excessive gnomery

    Town Yetholm

    August 5 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I ate breakfast and stocked up at an Esso service station (egg roll made to order) and caught a bus to the trail. After 500 m I met a hiker who asked if I was doing St Cuthbert's Way in the wrong direction. At first I thought he was pulling my leg, but I had actually started the wrong way! The hiker was a teacher called Miles and we walked together all day.
    Cessford Castle was the stronghold of the Kers, a family of reivers and cattle stealers in a lawless time.
    We were soon in the Cheviot Hills and made it to Wideopen Hill, the highest point of this Way. Super views today.
    Today's promised rain was always somewhere else, and I'm safe and dry in a caravan park in Town Yetholm.
    Unfortunately one of the pubs here has no chef and the other pub is fully booked, so I'm eating leftover lunch tonight.
    Update: the pub with no chef made me fish and chips!

    27 km.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Kirk at Kirk YetholmLooking back to the three Eildon HillsHethpool cottagesWeathered crossroadsBlack Bull Hotel

    Wooler

    August 6 in England ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Crossing more of the Cheviot Hills has been amazing. Open views, bracken, heather, sheep and cows. In the valleys, lovely wildflowers. I met eight walkers today, including two Australian girls and an older couple from the the Netherlands.

    This was the toughest day so far with an ascent out of Kirk Yetholm, imperceptibly crossing in to England and down to Hethpool, then up again and a long walk on the moors before descending in light rain to Wooler. I ate in the Black Bull Hotel, a very noisy pub, and stayed long enough to get some charge on my phone, which is now for essential use only.

    The soundtrack to this campsite is sheep, wind and the nearby stream. There are ducks roaming free. 27 km.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Cuthbert story pole
    Cuthbert story poleCampsite ducksWooler churchThere had to be a Wooler wool shopWooler from aboveWWII pillboxKind peopleSt Cuthbert's CaveIn St Cuthbert's CaveFirst view of Holy IslandBean GenieOld Mill campsite with common roomSunset from campsite

    Fenwick

    August 7 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today there was more moor, then farmland and St Cuthbert's Cave. Here, the monks carrying his remains to save him from Viking invaders halted for a while. There would have been plenty of room. His final resting place was Durham, where I am going on Sunday.

    I had a late lunch at the wonderfully named Bean Genie Coffee House with 70s music. My campsite is on a farm, a mile from the road. The barn is a common room for campers and has that wonderful thing, electricity, so I can charge my phone. 23 km today.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Lindisfarne Castle, now a holiday home
    Lindisfarne Castle, now a holiday homeHoly Island from the campsiteSafe crossing times for vehiclesGrey sealCausewayOn my way2nd refuge and polesOn the sandsPrioryLobster potsCastle from afarReused boat, 1905

    Holy Island of Lindisfarne

    August 8 in England ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Crossing over the sands to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne was a remarkable experience!

    I had to wait until the tide went out, so chatted at the campsite with Irish cyclist Vincent, explored the campsite farm, crossed an electric fence to avoid a field with a bull, and dawdled to the coast via the Barn at Beal cafe and a full English breakfast.

    At the causeway I met young Australians who had done no tide research at all and were about to set off. My info was to cross at 15:30 for the lowest water. In case I slipped on the mud, all my belongings were in plastic bags.

    Many people started crossing before me. I went at 15:15. I soon met mother and daughter, plant scientist Trish and anaesthetist Lizzie. They were nervous too, and they'd done the same research as me.

    We carried our walking boots, and walked through mud and ankle-high water. It was further than it looked (4 km) but easy following the poles, and none of us slipped. The mud was nice to walk on, and seals sang to us from a nearby sandbank.

    At the priory, I finished St Cuthbert's Way. I had a few hours to explore the island before my taxi back to the campsite. 14 km to the end of the Way.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandSt Cuthbert’s WayTraveler
    Durham Cathedral, Palace Green
    Durham Cathedral, Palace GreenTomb of St CuthbertSt Cuthbert as bishopSt Oswald as warriorCuthbert with Oswald's head which was buried with himTomb of the Venerable BedeApprentice pillarSanctuary knocker, knock for 37 days sanctuaryTransformation windowMade from old window glassMillennium Window 1997

    Durham

    August 9 in England ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I had to visit Durham on the way home and see St Cuthbert's tomb in the Cathedral.
    He has a plain tombstone with the simple inscription 'CVTHBERTVS', his name in Latin. There's also the tomb of the Venerable Bede, and the apprentice pillar, spot the error on the 5th zigzag.
    I stayed for evensong which was with a visiting choir, Alleyn Singers, and was marvellous. A fitting end to the trip.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 9, 2026