Sep – Nov 2023

France, Spain & England 2023

Getting over jet lag in Oloron Sainte Marie, exploring Zaragoza, volunteering at Pilgrim Welcome center in Santiago, walking the Camino Frances, and visiting Lucas & Liz in England Read more

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Trip start
September 10, 2023
Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 2
- Monday, September 11, 2023
- ☀️ 86 °F
- Altitude: 137 m
- France Gare de Toulouse-Matabiau 43.611037, 1.45370643°36’40” N 1°27’13” E
Made it to Toulouse!
September 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F
Our first two flights were delayed by about an hour, so I was afraid we might not make it in time, but we caught the last flight to Toulouse and just spent one evening here. It’s a lively and interesting city, it would be fun to have more time to look around. But now we’re at the train station with our backpacks and our walking sticks and ready to head to the city of Pau and then to Oloron Sainte Marie, where we will explore for a couple of days before going to Zaragoza and then to Santiago.
After some really atrocious food on the American Airlines flight yesterday, we were both very hungry. After we arrived in Toulouse , we walked just a few blocks from our room and found a wonderful little vegetarian restaurant, they had a vegetarian buffet that was fantastic! Roel had fish, and it was also good.Read more
Travelerwelcome to Europe. Have a good time
9/12/23Reply
TravelerThank you, Marlies! We are here to work on finishing another Camino, I wish we had time to stop in Germany!
9/12/23Reply
Except for the airline food, looks like you're off to a great start! Happy Camino!! [Susan Starr]
9/13/23Reply
TravelerThank you Susan, yes, you’re right, it’s been very nice so far!
9/13/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 3
- Tuesday, September 12, 2023 at 2:48 PM
- 🌧 72 °F
- Altitude: 256 m
- France Notre-Dame 43.188572, -0.60419243°11’19” N 0°36’15” W
1st Day in Oloron Sainte Marie
September 12, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 72 °F
We arrived in Oloron Sainte-Marie yesterday afternoon after riding two trains from Toulouse, then walked a long and rather steep hill (good Camino, practice!) to our guest house. Oloron is a beautiful small city, very old and graceful, nestled in a valley fronting the Pyrenees.
Our guesthouse owners are a retired couple from Paris, very hospitable and accommodating. They insisted on driving us to a restaurant last night, and would have come to retrieve us, but we managed to walk back up the hill instead.
Today we walked back down the hill to explore the city a bit, buying lunch from the grocery store.Read more
TravelerSo happy for you both being there better then living here
9/19/23Reply
TravelerUSA doesn’t have beautiful old buildings older then all of us 😀
9/19/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 5
- Thursday, September 14, 2023
- ☀️ 77 °F
- Altitude: 227 m
- France Oloron-Sainte-Marie 43.191933, -0.60637243°11’31” N 0°36’23” W
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OSM: more churches & a walk
September 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
On this day we checked out the other two Quartiers of Oloron Sainte Marie, each with their respective churches: Notre Dame, and Sainte Marie. Then we walked about 5 km to the village of Moumour and back. We learned that this is located in the French region of Bearn, and visited a museum that was all about the Béarnaise people. Yesterday we ate only from the grocery store, but today we visit a crêperie.Read more
Traveler I couldn’t eat all of it, too filling.
9/18/23Reply
Traveler Wow
9/18/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 6
- Friday, September 15, 2023
- 🌧 57 °F
- Altitude: 1,208 m
- Spain Los Arañones 42.75209, -0.51493842°45’8” N 0°30’54” W
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Traveling to Zaragoza Spain
September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F
To reach Zaragoza, we had to take a bus from Oloron Sainte Marie to Canfranc Estación, an old international train station located in the Pyrenees just across the Spanish border. There is currently no rail traffic on that route so we had to take the bus to Canfranc and then change to another bus that went to Saragossa. It was a beautiful ride, and I was glad that we got to see the new Canfranc Estación which has recently been converted to a luxury hotel called the Royal Hideaway

After arriving in Zaragoza, we took a walk to the downtown area that’s best known for its lively neighborhood tapa bars and the beautiful Basilica del Pilar.Read more
Traveler So many beautiful places in this world! Thank you for sharing the pictures of some of them
9/18/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 7
- Saturday, September 16, 2023 at 7:02 PM
- ☁️ 82 °F
- Altitude: 215 m
- Spain Plaza deNtra Senora del Pilar 41.656845, -0.87978341°39’25” N 0°52’47” W
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Street scenes in Zaragoza
September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F
Traveler Wish they would do that here so Bart can really see the fire truck engine
9/26/23Reply
TravelerYes that would be great
9/27/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 7
- Saturday, September 16, 2023
- ☁️ 81 °F
- Altitude: 203 m
- Spain Almozara 41.657158, -0.89588341°39’26” N 0°53’45” W
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Palacio de la Aljafería
September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
We paid 1 Euro each (courtesy of being over 65) for a guided tour of the Aljafería Palace, fortified medieval palace built during the second half of the 11th century in Al-Andalus, present day Zaragoza. It was the residence of the Banu Hud dynasty during the era of Abu Jaffar Al-Muqtadir. (thank you Wikipedia) . That particular dynasty didn’t have long to enjoy it because with the Christian re-conquest of 1118, it was taken over by the kings of Aragon.
Today it houses the Cortes (regional parliament) of the autonomous community of Aragon. It is one of only 3 remaining, almost complete examples of Islamic architecture in Spain, along with the Alhambra in Granada, and the Alcázar in Córdoba.Read more
Traveler impressing building
9/18/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 7
- Saturday, September 16, 2023
- ☁️ 81 °F
- Altitude: 219 m
- Spain Museo Goya - Colección Ibercaja 41.655287, -0.87794541°39’19” N 0°52’41” W
Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar
September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F
Saragossa not only has a beautiful palace from the Moorish period, it is also home to a quite impressive Basilica, and also a Cathedral. Altogether there was way too much excess between these last two buildings: dripping with frippery, but still quite impressive. We were unable to take photos in the cathedral, you’ll just have to believe me when I say that it had even more gaudiness about it. It is truly hard to imagine so many resources devoted to these buildings —- they are so beautiful and yet they make me wonder….Read more
TravelerWill you guys get to be with aunt Connie or aunt Donna ?
9/19/23Reply
TravelerOh, not this trip, in April will get to be with aunt Connie and maybe aunt Donna also but this trip is just us and of course we see Lucas and Liz 🥰
9/19/23Reply
TravelerI Genevieve would love that chandelier
9/19/23Reply
TravelerOver the top!
9/21/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 14
- Saturday, September 23, 2023 at 8:43 AM
- ☀️ 48 °F
- Altitude: 240 m
- Spain Praza do Obradoiro 42.880539, -8.54571742°52’50” N 8°32’45” W
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Volunteer time in Santiago de Compostela
September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F
We’ve been here for a week doing our volunteer stint at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela. It’s been a busy time, I thought it would feel like we’d have lots of free time when our shifts are only five hours, but we have to walk almost an hour to get there, or take a bus. Then we work for five hours straight, interacting with pilgrims from all over the world to issue their compostelas . It’s very rewarding work and interesting, but it is tiring.
We are living in a separate section only for volunteers, of a pilgrim albergue. No complaints about the living conditions, it’s very nice to be with the other volunteers! We’re just starting our second week, after which we will be taking the train to Leòn, and then to Belorado to start our own CaminoRead more
Traveler That’s cool
9/28/23Reply
Traveler The view is beautiful
9/28/23Reply
Traveler Cute pic mom
9/28/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 24
- Tuesday, October 3, 2023
- ☁️ 70 °F
- Altitude: 277 m
- Spain Museo Pedagóxico de Galicia 42.887495, -8.51391342°53’15” N 8°30’50” W
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Finishing our volunteer stint in SdC
October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
Our second week volunteering at the pilgrims office went by quickly, all too quickly. Every day we walked or bussed the 3 km to the Pilgrims office, then worked nonstop for five hours, then found something to eat, and either walked or bussed back. We often had communal dinners together with the other volunteers at the Albergue where we were staying, and we got to know several outstanding Volunteers from many different countries. We also met and heard such interesting stories from pilgrims from all over the world. And we even got to stamp the credentials of two pilgrims, who turned out to be friends of my sister, Connie Johnmeyer ! This is definitely a volunteer stint that I’d be willing to do again.

Now we are off to visit with our special Camino Friends, and then to start our own Camino for this year.Read more
Traveler That’s will be fun
10/5/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 25
- Wednesday, October 4, 2023
- ☁️ 73 °F
- Altitude: 837 m
- Spain Plaza San Marcelo 42.593567, -5.57088742°35’37” N 5°34’15” W
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Stop in Leon to visit with friends
October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
In between our volunteer time in Santiago, and starting our own Camino, we had the tremendous joy of spending a day in Leon with our Camino Friends, Larry and Carolyn Hatch, and also got to meet their sister-in-law, Juliana, who lives in Newport, Oregon! We had a delightful visit with them. Unfortunately, I have come down once again with a case of bronchitis, and I had to spend the first evening in Leon waiting to see a doctor in urgent care. I was so happy to get seen there and to get medicine so that I can stop coughing! They examined me and took x-rays (lungs are good!) and gave me a breathing treatment and prescribed the exact medicines I needed and all for $240! Sometimes I’m tempted to just stay in Spain!Read more
Traveler That’s fun mom happy for u
10/5/23Reply
Traveler Oh that late for them but fun Bart would love that park
10/5/23Reply
TravelerYes, Bart would love that park, it was a huge park and had several different play areas and so many children! And nine in the evening is not at all late for Spanish children, they’re often up after 10 PM enjoying the nightlife with their parents. It’s a whole different lifestyle here.
10/6/23Reply
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- Day 25
- Wednesday, October 4, 2023
- ☁️ 73 °F
- Altitude: 850 m
- Spain Catedral de León 42.598883, -5.567442°35’56” N 5°34’3” W
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León Cathedral
October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F
The cathedral in León deserves its own footprint. It is the most outstanding example of late Gothic architecture than I seen in cathedrals thus far. It is exceptionally airy and bright, with 125 Stainglass windows, some of them quite large. Apparently, they went a little too far with the light and airy construction and there have been a couple of collapses since it was built in the 13th centuryRead more
TravelerThank you for such beautiful pictures of my favorite building in the world!!!
10/7/23Reply
TravelerIsn’t it spectacular?!
10/7/23Reply
Traveler Airy indeed. It's as if the sky is inside...
10/14/23Reply
TravelerExactly!
10/15/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 27
- Friday, October 6, 2023 at 9:05 AM
- ☀️ 57 °F
- Altitude: 775 m
- Spain Belorado 42.419105, -3.19550542°25’9” N 3°11’44” W
Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca
October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F
We spent the previous night in Belorado at Casa Wasala, the place that we spent our last night on the Camino last year. It was very nice to see the host, Paul, again, he is a true Pilgrim. He has written a book about Pilgrims, in fact.
We started off from Belorado with nice weather, cool and sunny. But within a couple of hours, the sun turned quite warm, and even though it was a short day, it became very hot and tiring. I found out that I am not over my bronchitis yet, and the last couple of kilometers became very difficult for me. At one point, Roel even had to carry my bag, so today I am skipping the uphill section and hoping to walk only the last 6 km into San Juan de Ortega. I am also shipping my bag ahead with the backpack shipping service. Hoping that soon I will have my full breath back.Read more
TravelerTina, my findpenguins app just updated so I’m able to catch up with your feed. So lovely! Where did you stay in SdC? Sounds perfect! And thanks for your contributions to pilgrimage! I’m sure it was hard work but fulfilling. Hope you’re feeling and breathing better … I’ll be doing something similar in a couple weeks— going to Burgos and walking backwards along the Camino to Nájera, if my feet let me, to volunteer there. Following your notes with great interest! Give each other a hug from me. Buen camino!
10/7/23Reply
TravelerHey Ana, sounds like we will miss you by almost 2 weeks, because will be in Burgos tomorrow, then staying one extra day. I hope you have a great time as hospitalera in Nàjera. In Santiago de Compostela, they put us up in a special volunteer section of the municipal albergue that’s 3 km from the cathedral. We were separate from the pilgrims With our own entrance and kitchen and everything. We never even encountered them in the Albergue but of course we saw them every day at the pilgrims office when we issued compostelas.
10/7/23Reply
Traveler❤️ sounds just about perfect!
10/8/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 28
- Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 12:32 PM
- ⛅ 79 °F
- Altitude: 972 m
- Spain Agés 42.3698, -3.47852842°22’11” N 3°28’43” W
Villafranca to Atapuerca
October 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F
After yesterday’s fiasco, (me almost not making it from Belorado to Villafranca) I let Roel start today’s walk on his own, because there was a severe ascent for the first several kilometers out of town until San Juan de Ortega. I took a cab and met him at the bar in San Juan, he made it in such good time! He had a hard climb, but then afterwards, a couple of kilometers of good level path and he was quite happy when he came strolling in to meet me at the bar Marcella.
After a short break, we continued on together for the last 6 km into Atapuerca and I did fine. Hopefully, tomorrow I can do the entire route. (But I’m still shipping my bag ahead!)

Atapuerca is a small town just 20 km from the much bigger city of Burgos. It is also the site of a major archaeological dig where many discoveries have been made about human evolution. We are staying in a Casa Rural here with a few other pilgrims. The owner told us that this house used to be a chicken coop on the ground floor and the owner lived on the upper floors but the old chicken coop is now the dining room, and the chickens are now housed across the alley.Read more
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- Day 29
- Sunday, October 8, 2023 at 8:06 AM
- 🌙 52 °F
- Altitude: 1,036 m
- Spain Olmos de Atapuerca 42.379262, -3.52747542°22’45” N 3°31’39” W
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Atapuerca to Burgos
October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F
We had a 20 km day today, neither of us had any difficulties, so that was good! We left Atapuerca when it was still dark, although just barely. Got some nice pictures of the sunrise as we were crossing the hill above Burgos. After we got near Burgos, we had to walk 7 km around the airport and then along the river before we got into town. We don’t have any pictures from that because it was hot and we were tired at that point.
When we arrived in Burgos, we saw there was a Ren Fair going on, although different than the kind of Ren Fair that we have stateside. After taking a nap, we went out to see the evening and enjoyed watching the children and families play and eat in the streets and alleys and plazas until quite late at night.Read more
Traveler A stork nest in Castañares
10/9/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 30
- Monday, October 9, 2023 at 1:34 PM
- ☁️ 77 °F
- Altitude: 882 m
- Spain Burgos Cathedral 42.340613, -3.70401242°20’26” N 3°42’14” W
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A Day in Burgos
October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F
Traveler 1. 2 pees in a pot
10/9/23Reply
Traveler 2. Boys will be boys
10/9/23Reply
Traveler 3. So this is where holy water comes from
10/9/23Reply
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- Day 31
- Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 8:14 AM
- 🌙 46 °F
- Altitude: 876 m
- Spain Plaza Mayor 42.3419, -3.7039542°20’31” N 3°42’14” W
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Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas
October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 46 °F
Traveler That’s what the sunflowers are looking like here but just a little bit more green, but it is also, the trees are beautiful
10/12/23Reply
TravelerYes, many fields of ready to harvest sunflowers here, although I can’t tell if some of them were maybe stunted due to lack of water, some look very small
10/13/23Reply
Traveler Happy you guys are with friends
10/12/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 32
- Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 9:05 AM
- ☀️ 45 °F
- Altitude: 841 m
- Spain Rabé de las Calzadas 42.34045, -3.84689242°20’26” N 3°50’49” W
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Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas
October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F
Traveler pretty!
10/14/23Reply
Traveler beautiful
10/14/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 33
- Thursday, October 12, 2023 at 9:18 AM
- ☀️ 50 °F
- Altitude: 849 m
- Spain Hontanas 42.31073, -4.06785342°18’39” N 4°4’4” W
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Hontanas to Castrojeriz
October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F
Traveler Good picture
10/12/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 34
- Friday, October 13, 2023 at 8:10 AM
- ⛅ 54 °F
- Altitude: 813 m
- Spain Casa de los Gutiérrez Barona 42.289897, -4.14371442°17’24” N 4°8’37” W
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Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino
October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F
Traveler Beautiful. Interesting window design above the door
10/14/23Reply
Traveler 12% - wow!
10/14/23Reply
Traveler 18 % - wowza!
10/14/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 35
- Saturday, October 14, 2023 at 9:01 AM
- ☁️ 54 °F
- Altitude: 792 m
- Spain Boadilla del Camino 42.258438, -4.3467742°15’30” N 4°20’48” W
Boadilla d Camino - Villalcázar de Sirga
October 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
This was another 20 km day, which is short for some people, but is pretty much the max for us!
TravelerMax for me, too. Such beautiful photos!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
10/17/23Reply
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- Day 36
- Sunday, October 15, 2023
- ☁️ 63 °F
- Altitude: 832 m
- Spain Carrión de los Condes 42.33735, -4.60215842°20’14” N 4°36’8” W
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Villalcazar de Sirga to Carriòn de los C
October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
This was a rest day, we only walked about 6 km to our lodging on the far side of Carrión de los Condes. It was also a splurge night: I had reserved a room in a hotel that was inside an old monastery in Carriòn, it was a four-star and super nice, but it cost less than a Comfort Inn in the US.Read more
TravelerSan Zoilo❤️❤️❤️ such a restful, beautiful place. Hope you got to tour the museum, supposedly only open to guests? And what a beautiful place to hear Bach’s Goldberg variation #1…honestly, I feel I’m walking with you guys…
10/17/23Reply
TravelerAna, we did not get to tour the museum because we were there on a Sunday and it was closed on Sunday afternoons! It’s a little disappointing, but otherwise the place was fantastic
10/17/23Reply
Traveler Love the bridge I can throw some Pooh bear sticks with Bartholomew.
10/17/23Reply
Traveler❤️love that idea! 😍
10/19/23Reply
Traveler That nice and peaceful
10/17/23Reply
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- Day 37
- Monday, October 16, 2023 at 9:43 AM
- ☁️ 55 °F
- Altitude: 818 m
- Spain Carrión de los Condes 42.34152, -4.62377242°20’29” N 4°37’26” W
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Carrión dl Condes to Calzadilla dl Cueza
October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
Our walk today was 17 1/2 km with no intermediate stops other than the bus that you see in the pictures. These are the kind of days that you hope to find well screened areas off the road to use in lieu of porta-potties, for some reason in Europe it seems that people don’t plan for restroom facilities so often as they do back home. It has been raining prior to our start but when we walked, it was just cloudy and quite cool.

The town, where we’re staying is a small farming community with the addition of three albergues.Read more
Traveler…one of my favorite days on the Camino…sky, earth, footsteps…(and yes, no bathroom…)
10/17/23Reply
TravelerI really enjoy the Meseta also, it’s been very calming so far
10/17/23Reply
Traveler Now that would be a place I like to drink a cup of decaf coffee
10/17/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 38
- Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 9:22 AM
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Altitude: 864 m
- Spain Arroyo Cueza de Cabañas 42.329145, -4.80314742°19’45” N 4°48’11” W
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Calzadilla to Terradillos dl Templarios
October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
Our walking day was shorter than I had thought it would be because I made a math error when doing the itinerary. But I t was nice to have another short day.
We walked mostly on gravel paths and some tractor roads between villages.
We saw a lot of Adobe buildings and walls, and also noticed that many tractors were parked inside the small villages, quite different from the isolated farms where tractors are normally kept in the US - I remembered this difference from sociology class, but the social implications are quite interestingRead more
Traveler That building looks so isolated.
10/17/23Reply
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Traveler France, Spain & England 2023
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- Day 39
- Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 8:34 AM
- 🌬 55 °F
- Altitude: 872 m
- Spain Terradillos de Templarios 42.36187, -4.89362242°21’43” N 4°53’37” W
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Terradillos de los Templarios to Sahagún
October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 55 °F
TravelerThat walk looks like miles away to get to your destination
10/22/23Reply
Traveler The oranges look good and sweet
10/22/23Reply
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- Day 40
- Thursday, October 19, 2023
- 🌧 57 °F
- Altitude: 868 m
- Spain El Burgo Ranero 42.421646, -5.21825842°25’18” N 5°13’6” W
Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F
I didn’t take any photos today, it was wet and cold, and I was just wanting to walk fast to get warm. I am including a couple of photos that Roel took of me that show the wet conditions on the trails.
We walked from the monastery albergue in Sahagún to a nice little albergue in El Burgo Ranero, just about 18 km. We had to use a hairdryer to try to dry our shoes and socks and other things enough so that maybe they’ll be dry by morning. Oh, and I ate the most delicious vegetarian meal I’ve had so far, check out the picture!Read more
TravelerIf u jump in the water puddles it can give you reminisce of your childhood 😀
10/22/23Reply
Traveler😆 yes, I suppose it would have been, but it was also pretty cold, so we tried to avoid getting more wet! 😂
10/23/23Reply
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Trip end
November 8, 2023