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Portuguese Camino 2026
  • Regina Reed
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  • Regina Reed

Portuguese Camino 2026

A 16-day adventure by Regina Read more
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    🇪🇸 Madrid, Spain
    Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    Tapestry with gold threads- figures are time, past, present, etc.
    Actual parts of original fortress wall around Madrid.Female artist- she used her husband as the "model" for hell (devil figure).Altar in the Madrid Cathedral.Some of the pictures and artists should look familiar!Are these guys the cutest? There are 4.

    Madrid Day 2

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I made a pleasant mistake today! I thought I had bought a tickets to the Royal Palace, but had instead purchased a ticket for the Royal Collection Gallery- a hidden gem of a mix of Spanish history and art. To make it better, an English-speaking docent was ready to start a semi private tour of the collection. Amazing building, collection and tour! Some of it was artwork and some items (tapestries, coaches, clocks, thrones, furniture) from various monarchs /past dynasties -- and fun facts.

    I also spent time at the Madrid Cathedral, and then spent much of the afternoon at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. It's a huge private collection with pieces back to the 1300s-- and lots of very well known artists up to the early 1900s.

    Time to eat-- then Flamenco tonight (and yes- I'll need to eat again!)    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    Notice the horse head is disproportionately small--in order to have statue balanced w horse on 2 ft!You'll see this bear and tree symbol throughout MadridTapas!

    Madrid

    April 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Arrived last night at midnight. My hotel room is a postage stamp (100 sq feet) but a perfect location and everything I need! Quiet too!

    I slept so well and didn't have to get up early to walk 20! I did find some breakfast early and was at the Prado by 1015 or so. What a treat!!! Took mini breaks and stayed almost 4 hours- so much to see! I also did a "free tour" in the afternoon (tip based payment) and learned so much more about Spanish history...some of it is quite disturbing- perhaps every country has its disturbing history :( We saw the Royal Palace, Cathedral, plaza del Mayor, plaza del sol, and more. Tomorrow, I have ticket for in depth look at the palace.Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
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    Santiago- Easter Sunday

    April 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We were up early - we had been told we might need to wait in line 90 min-2 hours before the noon pilgrims mass to get a seat. At 930, we walked right in- stayed for 10 mass and just stayed on for the noon mass- which was crazy crowded (high mass and the botafumerio would be flying... see vid) The first mass was very peaceful and meditative (in Spanish). We got to walk around and view the crypt of St James for a second time.

    The botafumerio was pure delight- hundreds of pounds of smoking metal flying over everyone's heads- quite a spectacular end to our trip!

    We had a lovely Easter lunch after, walked through some of Santiago's parks and hung out in a cafe- then off to the airport. Madrid for me and DC for Nancy (who has to teach on Tuesday).    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    The Cathedral upon arrival this morning
    As you travel on the Camino, you collect stamps. These are needed to get the Compostela.View from our room at Pension (small hotel)A huge parade this evening! Let's talk about hoods and points! This was Saturday evening.Our first scallops on the trip (despite following scallop shaped signs the whole time!)

    Santiago de Compostela

    April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Saturday before Easter- we left in dark (with headlamp) and had less than 10 miles. Very exciting and everyone is in a happy mood. There was lots of elevation coming in- and (obviously perhaps), it's a different route into Santiago from the Frances two years ago. Arrived around 1030. Sadly the English pilgrims mass was not held today (Easter schedule is different) but we're planning on the noon pilgrims mass at the Cathedral tomorrow (which is likely to include the swinging incense thing... long Spanish word that starts with a B)

    We got Compostelas (certificate of completion of the Camino) and coffee and breakfast and pictures around the Cathedral! I spoke with a woman who had just finished the Primitivo (who was also was good at taking pictures!) in about 14 days, sounded interesting (generally fewer people). Maybe next time!

    We have a beautiful room with a small balcony just a short walk from the Cathedral. It's very nice (though likely to be loud tonight- that's okay since no significant walking tomorrow!)

    More time around Santiago this afternoon! And a search for the best gelato:)

    We did a "free tour" around Santiago this afternoon- interesting and informative! Then we needed a drink, followed by touring the Cathedral and seeing the crypt of St James. Dinner (scallops!), and then ran into a parade right by our room. How convenient!    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler

    A Picaraña

    April 3 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We left in the dark this morning- a wonderful snore-free night in the alburgue. We had a long walk ahead and knew we wanted to spend time in Padrón.

    In Padron, we visited Santiaguino do Monte- where James preached in Spain and miracles occurred.

    More soon- adding pics now- story later! Santiago tomorrows!    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    Still dark as we left town at 8am this morning
    Heading over the bridge out of PontevedraA gourd and staff that are pilgrim emblems.We have seen these all along the trail.I think this bull is on Camiño too. He didn't bother us- but we were very close!My pack (at first cafe con leche break, and delicious breakfast!)Here is our breakfast stop as we leaveCute! Like an old miniComing into town around 1Our Albergue211

    Caldes de Reis

    April 2 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Slept until 730... what a luxury! 😉
    Easy 13.5 mile walk into cute town by the river , known for its thermal baths. We had a wonderful late lunch by the river with Radler (on tap!), ensalade completa (a huge delicious salad Nicois) and some of the best grilled Padrón peppers. (Other places have been saying they are still out of season). The salad included these dark skinned tomatoes that looked more like a plum but tasted fresh tomato! We are enjoying some siesta time now and will go out for dinner (perhaps gelato instead?) and thermal foot bath! Almost everything is closed either 3-5 or 4-6. Cafes will serve drinks at 6, but hard to find food until 8 (which is really close to pilgrims bedtime😆).

    We continue to see and meet people and find them again. Lots of familiar faces. Most everyone is hoping to get to Santiago on Saturday or Easter Sunday. People last night had trouble finding an alburgue - much busier since it is Spanish holiday week. They said even the municipal turned them away. Two bunk mates in Albergue this evening are trying to leave at 630 am tomorrow in hopes of getting to municipal alburgue early (they don't have any reservations and municipals are on first come basis). We do have reservation for tomorrow and Saturday nights.

    So much more after I wrote this-
    Maudy Thursday is a big deal is Spain- after Mass there was a big parade around town with statues being held by pall bearers and marching band. It was very somber- especially compared to the lively marching band that played at 11 pm through town in Pontevedra (actually sounded like they were marching through our room!) Our Albergue mates thought the parade was quaint compared to what they are used to in Southern Spain. They showed us pics and videos that were closer to Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Lots of discussions about participants in pointy hats (faces covered or not... points up or not).

    Plus foot bath last night in thermal springs and cocktails with couple from Belfast.    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    These are like "corn cribs" typically used to keep stuff away from mice and other vermin!
    We see the water walking to Pontevedra when we are past the town of ArcadeWe cross a bridge coming into the city and will go over one tomorrow as we go outAwwww!

    Pontevedra

    April 1 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    A short ish walk today (so why does my watch show 50k steps) into this nice city! Bigger than Tui, I think- lots of hustle and bustle.

    Our walk today was much busier- so many Spanish pilgrims have joined. The first 2-3 hours were quiet then enough people to be a small parade. Very green- great weather and mostly off roads and on woodland paths-- with lots of up and down!

    Seeing folks here and there- the German medical student, Elizabeth from 2nd night auberge, the Upper Peninsula guy from Porto.

    In Pontevedra- a great Basílica, old ruins, and a super art museum (and free to pilgrims)!

    Of course, sangria in the late afternoon with tapas and relaxing in the sun!    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
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    Musicians were out along the way, including bagpipes.Pretty walking by the streamFewer cobblestones today:)Steam rising off the water in the distance1The best breakfast! Our first tortilla and coffee con leche1Here are our stats today. Nancy runs Strava.Post walking lunch-- tuna empanada and an Estrella Galicia. The best !Our Albergue, O CorsicaSangria on tap served here :)

    Saxamonde (close to Redondela)

    March 31 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We left Tui at 7am, in the dark by headlamp. We knew we had a solid 20 miles and the heat was getting up to the 70s. We did not book beds ahead and had heard it may be busy since its Holy Week- another reason for an early start. And we were not alone! Lots more pilgrims on the path compared to yesterday. Many Germans, many Spanish and Portuguese, a few Norwegians and an American living in the UK.

    Being in Spain meant Cafe con leche and Spanish Tortilla for breakfast! So delicious. We had also hit a grocery store last night so stocked up on trail food for the day- which always makes for a nicer walk. Also- saw more horses than prior and a goat. Of course, lots of chickens and sheep too.

    The uphill today was significant but the downhill for the last two miles was crazy- straight down! But since we are at beautiful clean auberge, O Corsico, we are drinking sangria in the sun and resting our feet!!    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    31The walled city of ValenciaA nice coffee break within the walled cityThis is the bridge dividing Portugal and Spain (and Valencia and Tui)This is the only sign indicating leaving one country and entering anotherWelcome to Spain!Living well tonight- hotel (not auberge) with sheets, towels and private bath! And a balcony!View from Pension balconyTui CathedralThis is the window for the cookie baking cloistered bunsHere's the little room with the window- hard to find!Within the Tui CathedralExterior of Tui CathedralAre these Crepe Myrtle's?Great pic- can see bridge in background too

    Tui

    March 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Short day today! About 15 miles, but with steps around town, I'm at 42000 steps. It was a fun walk through the walled town of Valencia (stopped for Gal-lo -- coffee, not cheap wine) and snacks, then fun to cross the bridge into Spain. (No guard, checkpoint or anything).

    Nice to relax this afternoon and explore the city. We went to the Tui cathedral and to visit the cloistered nuns who bake almond fish-shaped butter cookies with donated eggs and give them to you (for a donation) through a secret window (think of a reconciliation window, so both parties can't see each other).

    Of course, while having an Aperol Spritz on the sunny terrace, we ran into our Kazakhstans again. We also met a German friend who we will see on the road tomorrow. Definitely more pilgrims on the road once we hit Valencia. In order to get a Compostela, you need to walk a minimum of 100 km, so some folks start around Tui. It can be larger groups and not individual pilgrims.

    Early morning tomorrow as we have a solid 20 miles to Redondela, unless we cut it short at Mos (around 13)-- there is not much in between:(    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    Tons of wild calla lilies!
    Not sure if this is a type of palm tree?

    Rubiães

    March 29 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    It was a long day today! About 20 miles- similar to other days- but significant elevation gain late in the day, combined with later start than usual (group breakfast at Albergue) and long ish stop in Ponte de Lima... it was almost 5 pm when we pulled into Albergue tonight. Of course, we had a pleasant cafe stop before the last 2 miles as we had once again found our Kazakhstan friends at the cafe. We needed the break and the calories! The final 2 miles were Billy Goat trail style rock scrambling (mostly up, some down, rarely level for long).

    Second breakfast was a super cute cafe between our Albergue and Ponte de Lima- a comfy sofa to relax on. We've learned to order a Gal-lo (essentially a latte, but they don't recognize latte-- otherwise you get a super strong coffee w just an ounce of milk!

    Ponte de Lima was very fun- it's Palm Sunday so churches were busy, people outside and holding palms, also a marching band and outside marketplace including people in local costume. We found some amazing strawberries, then gelato then crossed the river and continued our hike.

    We really haven't seen that many pilgrims during our walks. Seems like today, we passed and chatted with maybe 5 groups (or individuals). The Albergue is full though so people are just spread out during the day. Lots of mountain bikes today (non Camino) and motorbikes zooming around.    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
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    Casa da Franando- Vitorino dos Paies

    March 28 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    What a great day! 19 (or more) miles today... lots of cobblestones....Early start out of the auberge- have met tons of people-- Germany, South Africa, Denmark, Norway, Romania, Spain, Brazil, Canada....

    At a lovely place tonight with an amazing pilgrims meal- lots of good, wine, port, song and laughter. Time change tonight, breakfast here tomorrow and then onward! There are only two in our room tonight and 6 pilgrims next door.    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler
    Lunch! Fried chicken salad, followed by a chocolate croissant:)Small local church along the wayOur alburgue tonight- quite new and clean!

    Pedra Furada

    March 27 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Great first big day! Some road walking, some fields and vineyards, and fun people to talk to along the way. Occasional detours to get off roads and into smaller roads or dirt paths. We're in an alburgue here and had a great pilgrims dinner up the road a bit. (A hearty meal including homemade vegetable soup, braised chicken with sauce and rice and potatoes for 10 Euros.)Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler

    Porto

    March 26 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Just as wonderful as before! Super fun day-- arrived around 1 pm, took metro/ light rail from airport to Cathedral area and we picked up our pilgrims passports. From there a lovely and much needed late lunch and planning sesh near the Cathedral.

    We walked about 30 minutes north to our alburgue which is right on the Camino. Our Alburgue has wonderful vibe and big courtyard garden with lemons the size of grapefruit and mandarins to pick! The alburgue was a preschool at some point, hence the little toilet flower pots!

    At dinner, we met a lovely Brazilian woman who apologized for her English which was still so much better than my zero Portuguese! The beer and port were amazing and she made the desserts herself. We were just happy to sit and relax and eat. It will be an early night tonight then off to Sao Pedro de Rates tomorrow. I've heard the alburgue there is an old monastery and the first dedicated pilgrim hostel in Portugal.    Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler

    Lisbon Airport

    March 26 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Only 4 hour time difference from DC. Easy flight. Flight for Porto leaves soon.
    See pics-what looked like a fun candy store meant to appeal to kids is really a whole store for tinned fish of all kinds! The Ferris wheel? Tinned fish! All about 20 Euros per- so pricey tinned fish. (No, I didn't buy any. Weighs too much and not feeling like chomping on tinned fish for breakfast!)Read more

  • Regina ReedPortuguese Camino 2026Traveler

    Dulles Airport

    March 25 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Woo hoo! 🤦‍♀️
    Flight looks on time and TSA was breezy. Even the metro out here was a speedy 1 hour and 20 minutes. Can't beat that! Next stop Lisbon, en route to Porto.

    Trip start
    March 25, 2026
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