• Ziguinchor, Senegal

    January 19 in Senegal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We cross over "The Gambian highway" bridge back into Senegal. Huge holes and dusty pistes make up the road. And then it happens, the Senegalese customs insist that the papers issued to us when entering Senegal should never have been issued, are invalid and that we are in "Infraction". Confiscation of our car is a real possibility. After half and hour of discussion they send us to regional customs in Ziguinchor, Casamance 150km away giving us 7 days to "declare" our car.
    I am seriously worried!
    When we arrive, customs is closed. We park next to the river and spend the evening at a restaurant watching Senegal win against Marocco in the African cup finals.
    The next morning customs has a day off because Senegal won the cup.
    GREAT!
    We drive to Cap Skiring to wait a few days.
    Read more

  • And now into "The Gambia" we go!

    January 16 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    A stream of colours and activity. This is Africa as I love it. ❤️
    We arrive in Georgetown (Janjanbureh), a small island in the Gambia river from where slaves from the deeper regions of Africa were shipped to the coast. This horrific piece of British history popps up again and again and is very much alive in the consciousness of local people. No country had slavery so thoroughly organised as the British.Read more

  • Nico lodge, sheer african bush luxury!

    January 15 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The last two days we spend at Nico lodge. A bush camp on a cliff edge with seven tents in total luxury.
    I sit on the terrase all day looking through the binoculars while Elfi ließ Like a crocodile in the pool.
    And then I see it, a absolutely huge crocodile below swimming slowly in the muddy waters. What an incredible sight!
    And then to top it I observe a fish Eagle catch a fish, and fly to a tree to eat in in absolute peace. He eats nearly 30 minutes.
    Read more

  • Boat ride with hippos,

    January 13 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We return to Simenti today to do a boat ride to look for hippos. These are very difficult to find because very shy. They pop up to look and disappear again. But we get some beautiful shots.

    And then a dream comes true when I discover an "African Fish Eagle".
    This bird has been my spirit animal ever since an encounter in 2018 and since the end of my Camino walk to Santiago di Compostela, has been tattooed on my shoulder.
    Read more

  • Game drive

    January 11 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Today our first game drive early in the morning.
    And discovery of how the bush sends whattsapp messages.
    Because the network is seldom available and very weak, you write your message in your phone, then via a pulley system connected to the highest tree, you pull your phone 40m into the tree top. Then you wait 30-60 minutes and then check your phone whether the message went out.
    Now that is creativity!
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  • What a welcome comitee😅

    January 11 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Together with our guide we drive to the "Campement du Lion". a very basic African style lodge, round huts, African style shower (a bucket of water over the head), hole in the floor toilets, (again with water bucket), but all this with crocodiles🐊 on sand banks and playful curious monkeys everywhere. I can watch these monkeys play all day, it is like a hilarious slap stick film,,♥️Read more

  • On to Niokolo Koba game reserve

    January 9 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Today we drive deep into the interior to the "Niokolo Koba" Game reserve on the border of Senegal with Guinea and Mali. The huge park was founded by "Sedar Senghor" the first president of Senegal and became UNESCO heritage in 1960. Since then the majority of the large animals have disappeared and since COVID visitors hardly come here anymore. We decide to give it a try and take on the two day drive.Read more

  • Lodji Island

    January 8 in Senegal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We take a boat ride into the mangroves of the delta visit the island village "Mar Lodji".
    This visit moves us deeply as the village guide proudly tells us about his village traditions, one of total tolerance between islam, Christianity and Animism, all practised next to each other with Moslems going to the Christian church on Sunday because dancing and singing is so fun.
    Everything here has meaning and everything is connected in the sense of "UBUNTU": connected to each other, to the earth, to the spirits and to the ancestors who are present at every moment looking after the living.
    In the village center are two huge trees, an Acacia and a Cheese tree (used for building canoes), both wrapped around each other, supporting each other and seen as the symbol of man and woman. Directly underneath is the "Tam Tam", the village drum, used for communicating with other villages, and the "meeting place" where the elders regularly meet to discuss and decide on village matters, also, judgement is spoken here when dispute exists. No police is needed here, criminality doesn't exist.
    Could it be that this is the kind of governance that our world needs.
    Read more

  • The enormous nasty old crocodile

    January 6 in Senegal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    For those who have read the adorable childrens book: "The enormous nasty crocodile" by Ronald Dahl, to day we met him! The beastly old croc who came out of the muddy brown river to waddle into town and eat at least three juicy little children:
    "because you mash it and munch it, you chew it and crunch it, it's lovely to hear it go squish!"
    Well Senegal seems to be the home of of the nasty old crocodile!
    Read more

  • Zebra bar, total relaxation, Saint Louis

    January 3 in Senegal ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Both of us are exhausted and simply do "nothing" for four days.
    Staring at the air, listening to the waves and watching exotic birds do crazy things. It is the total contrast to our time in Mauritania.
    Every morning we take our coffee and tea up the observation tower to watch the sun rise and listen to the morning concert of birds.
    Our colds go away and curiosity to discover, comes back.
    Saint Louis, nearby, was founded in 1659, is a potpuri exuding the cultures of the Arabs, the Portuguese, the Spanish the French and very much Black Africa, Senegal.
    This is Black Africa "pure!"
    And what strikes us most, is the joy of being alive, the joy of laughing and talking, community, and colours.
    Endless colours!
    This is the culture that Arabs, colonizers, and the church tried to suffocate over centuries, without success!
    It is the region where between 50 and 100 million people were violated, enslaved and taken to foreign countries.
    And now it is coming back with force and pride. People love their country, are happy with life and love their culture. No matter how poor, you see smiling chattering faces proud to share their culture with us.
    What an exhilarating experience!
    Read more

  • We race to Senegal

    December 31, 2025 in Senegal ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    One last look back at the sand and we race off south. After a few km a huge dune tries to stop us as it crosses the road. But no chance! We are off!
    The landscape changes into Sahel Savannah and then after 1000 gruelli g km we reach the Delta of the Senegal river and cross over into Senegal heading straight to the Zebra bar south of Saint Louis. Tropical birds are flying around, the Atlantic thunders in the distance and we are so incredibly happy "to do nothing"Read more

  • One last trip into the sand

    December 25, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We have decided to do one more trip into the sand of the Erg Amatlich desert and then leave the group for Senegal.
    It is an exhilarating trip through deep sand along river beds and up a steep sandy dune with beautiful evenings, starry nights and a moving last evening around a fire with part of the group.
    It is really difficult to leave, but we know that we need to do just that.
    Read more

  • Our spirits collapse! We are exhausted!

    December 25, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Despite all the Adventure, Mauritania is an incredibly tough country:
    The roads, when there are some, are better described as "holes with some tar around them", forcing us to drive very slowly to not destroy our car.
    We are surrounded mistreated animals and by extreme poverty and frequently by a desperateness and begging that completely eats us up.
    Driving in the Sand requires a degree of concentration that exhausts us, and food availability is reduced to a few tins and and some bread with jam. Very little is available.
    We have been keeping our spirits up with all our force so far, but both of us are showing "ware and tare" and have bad colds for days now.
    We are exhausted!
    And then on the way from Chenguetti back to ATAR we discover that we have been driving on a corrugated dust road for hours with the back window open creating a vacuum into the car!
    The whole bed, kitchen, equipment, books and food are covered with 5mm of fine dust!
    Our resistance collapses and we give up,
    Drive back to ATAR, clean the car for three days and decide to discontinue the trip and head to Senegal and relax at the sea.
    Our plan is to drive one more dessert round and then leave the group. We inform MANTOCO.
    Promptly we meet Christian and his Gerti on an ancient BMW motorcycle. Both are specialists on Senegal and fill us up with valuable tips supporting our endeavour.
    Read more

  • Chenguetti

    December 21, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Cenguetti is another of the seven holy cities of Islam and at a crossroads of various Caravan routes from Mali, Senegal and the Maghreb. It was from here that thousands of pilgrims over the centuries started their Hadsch to Mecca. In the 10th century It was a center of scholars in religion, medicine, astronomy and Technology.
    Then came the all consuming sand dunes, burying the city again and again. Because Cenguetti is home to numerous libraries with scripts from this age, it was put on the UNESCO heritage list and received funds to remove 3 meters of sand from the old town. Today 15years later the sand is back again. 11 private libraries exist still. I'll

    Driving to chenguetti was our most exciting desert drive so far. We drove ahead of the group and came many Kms off track. It took us hours working ourselves back 500m by 500m, walking ahead to find a route through dunes and large grass bushels and then back to the car to drive. It was both exhilarating but also frightening and a wake up call for how easy it is to loose orientation when everything looks the same and you distance yourself from the car looking for a route and suddenly discover that the wind has covered up your footprints.
    Read more

  • A Mauritanian family, camel races

    December 18, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    While all this craziness takes place we get into a conversation with Ahmed Moctar, a man in front of whose house we had parked. It turns out his family left Oadane for Noukchott, the capital, many years ago to become one of the richest families in the country.
    They keep this house solely to be able to network with ministers during this festival once every 4 years!
    We are invited into a huge tent for tea. Lying on the floor like Romans with cushions for support, we are introduced to his brother's, cousins, and nephews as well as grand son. Huge bronze trays of dates are served.
    As we leave, we are invited to lunch the next day.
    This time the tent is full (40 persons) in small groups of 8. Everyone sitting or lying on the huge carpet.
    First come various dates eaten with creme fraiche, then mutton meat, cooked or roasted which you have to rip off, one handed with the right hand (no left hand allowed!)
    And then as a next course, huge quantities of camel meat with couscous or rice which you rip off (right handed) wrap it in rice and sauce and then somehow maneuver it into your 👄 mouth.
    What a challenge!
    What an experience!

    In the process our guide Moustapha gives me a turban as a gift and shows me how to tie it.
    We leave with a huge invitation to visit the family when we reach Noukchott.

    What a visit!!!!!
    Read more

  • Ouedane, "Festival du Patrimoine"

    December 18, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We arrive in Ouadane, one of the seven holy cities in the Islamic world and dating back to the 12th century, and are amazed by a bristeling excitement in the air.
    I open the window and ask a bystander
    "what is going on?"
    "The president is coming tonight to open a one week " Festival du Patrimoine" which happens once in 4 years.
    My god are we lucky!
    Promptly nomads on beautiful stallions ride through the main street to line up on the dust track leading into the 500 person town which now swells to 3000 overnight.
    Every home has set up a tent in their courtyard to rent out to the people staying over, and as with every good president, he comes with entourage of hundreds of ministers, ambulances, media. In the early evening a never ending autocade enters the tiny town causing total chaos!
    And then something happens that I simply cannot understand, for the evening and day that the president is here no one except his entourage and the media are allowed to participate. Everyone else is locked out by hundreds of soldiers and police.
    Read more

  • Structure de Richat, "eye of the Sahara"

    December 15, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The Richat structure, also "eye of the Sahara", is a 50km wide structure and no one knows what it is,
    A volcano?
    A huge big bubble during when the world was created?
    Hundreds of geologists since the 60ies, when it was discovered from outer space have not got anywhere closer to a solution.
    Today we speeded ahead through the sand an had the night for us alone on the edge of this incredible space in the desert.

    The next morning a sand storm hits us. While the others continue in to the center of the structure, Elfi and I decide to head to Ouadane
    Read more

  • On to incredible rock etchings

    December 13, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After spending the night at a deserted French fort, we head into a beautiful but very sandy canyon lined along the sides with rock etchings dating back 4000-6000 years. By hitting the rock surfaces with a hard stone small holes add up to pictures showing antilopes, giraffes and elephants, once the natural fauna of a Sahara consisting of savannah.Read more

  • El Bayed, a Neolythical museum.

    December 12, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    150km into the desert we cross El Bayed, a village with 50 inhabitants that impressed us deeply. Instead of begging, which is normal in this country, Lydia and Dija, two sisters have created a small tent camp where they rent out tents, cook food for their guests, and their father has collected Neolithic artefacts he has found in the desert in a small museum.
    It is touching with what love they do this.
    We support them graciously, drinking tea, buying a fresh bread baked in amber's buried in the sand, and visit the tiny museum. It was a very moving afternoon!

    After leaving El Bayed, Elfi drives up an incredibly steep pass with rock steps and tight bends feared by off-roaders. We crawl up with all differentials locked. I am deeply impressed, and once again we see what incredible performance "Sprinti" is able to deliver.
    Read more

  • "Sebkehet Chemcham" salt pan

    December 11, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    As far as the eye reaches was salt, flat and hard. 70km further once again the dunes and one of the most beautiful night spots we have experienced so far. No one around, a view into eternity, total silence and a heaven full of stars. Can life get better than this?Read more

  • How people live. Atar

    December 10, 2025 in Mauritania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Atar is a dust bowl in a state of chaos. Tiny houses, families living on the floor with goats running in between the rubbish piles, Tiny stalls all selling the same few goods. 50year old Mercedes Benz, held together with tape, transporting at least 7 persons. Without lights or indicators, frequently without windows.. Donkeys and camels standing around waiting for their next task.
    Meat and fish stalls consisting of a table standing in the sun, where various pieces of meat, covered by flies, lie waiting all day.
    Women sitting on the sandy pavement, holding their baby and selling fresh bread.
    In between, the constant calling to prayer of the Muezzins already starting at 4 in the morning.
    Oh my god!
    What a tsunami of impressions,
    all making me shudder.
    Read more

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