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Bald eagle goes a walking
  • Michael Spies

Bald eagle goes a walking

For 10 years now I have been dreaming of walking the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) from Mexico to Canada. And now this moment has come. On 12.May 2023 I start my walk at the Mexican border with 6 months and 4.200km in front of me.
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  • Trip start
    May 9, 2023
    Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies

    This is where it gets serious!

    May 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    For days and days now, I have packed and repacked and repacked my rucksack again, taking 50 grams out each time until no more was possible, increasingly thinking that I am becoming neurotic. It was clearly time to leave!
    And now I am here, in SanDiego starting my walk on 12th May.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Scout and Frodo Mann holding their evening dinner talk in their garden
    Thirty hikers all worrying about the snow in the sierras this year, a record yearThomas, who was sitting behind me in the plane

    PCT- arrival in San Diego

    May 9, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today I arrived in SanDiego and the feeling is "oh my god, this is really happening"- HELP!,
    In the plane sitting directly behind me was Thomas Csencsitz from Graz in Austria. What a comfort, I'm not alone!
    We arrived at a hostel run by trail angels Scout and Frodo Mann who are dedicated to the PCT and open their home to 30 hikers every day from the beginning of march till end of may, cooking, advising and chatting and not wanting even a donation. That is absolutely incredible!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Farewell from Scout and Frodo Mann
    So, that's meAnd that is "flow"Trumps wonderful wall 5m high and 5m deep to prevent tunnelsThis ladies pack reminded me a lot of the lady in the film "wild"A little totem on the wayFlowers and scent of herbs everywhere.1So, that's my "cowboy camping" place. No tent!

    The first day of a long journey

    May 11, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    This morning I weighed my pack with food, and two bottles of water and screamed in shock. 18 kg! Despite all the packing and repacking.. so I am walking with about 18kg. The heaviest I have ever carried.
    I drove in an Uber to the border together with "Flow", a 22 year girl working in a bar in Michegan who just got back from climbing a 6000 in Tibet and has already walked the appalatian trail and the continental divide trail, AT 22 !
    How crazy is that!.
    Another man, had just come back from climbing a 6000m peak in alaska at -50 C together with his uncle. Before that he was working in an Australian mine and then sailed across the atlantic to do the PCT. This is a generation who works to live and is totally uninterested in career, family and house.
    I thought I would walk together with "Flow", that was very naiv, she started off like a porche and after 2 km I gave up. This is where I realise that there is a difference between 22 and 65, and so, during the day, I was constantly being passed by others. Quite a challenge for my ego!
    As we drove, the lady in the uber mentioned that she has never seen the region so green, the record snow also brought record rain, and so, instead of walking through an arid region I am walking through a flower paradise with a million different scents that I have never smelled before. Once again I am in God's garden!
    I stopped after 11 km after having filtered water at a stream and looked for a place to pitch tent. Nothing in sight, and so ended up "cowboy camping" on a flat rock with beautiful view over the mountains and valleys.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Sun rise from the rock I slept on. My sleeping bag soaked from the dew
    Usually brown at this time of year. Flowers everywhere, what luck I have!Not sure what bird this was, but I was sure he was greeting meAfter a 300m climb in the afternoon view from my tent spotHome for a night

    Day 2 in Gods garden, km 26

    May 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Already at 4am the first birds started to sing in the ice cold night air (probably 5 deg. C). With shock I realised that dew had been so intensive that the water had run off my sleeping bag and created numerous pools on and around my mat. Water and down don't really like each other!
    As soon as the sun rose temps shot up and within 20 min my bag and everything was dry. Within an hour we had reached 25 degrees and rising.
    The day got hotter and hotter, and to celebrate my first full day, it ended in a 300m climb.
    I was totally exhausted. The heat is killing!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Walking at sunrise is about the most invigorating thing in the PCT world
    Lake Morena in the distance.Morning glory!Flowers and scents everywhereAnd then the brutal sun starts beating down, already at 08 amJust met Thomas whom I haven't seen for two days.In the glowing heat this rushing stream beaconsIncredible views on the last 10km stretchAnd suddenly trail runners pass. They have been running since 06am!

    Day 3: Km 51, Fred Canyon

    May 13, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Yesterday the heat nearly killed me and so I decided to start hiking at dawn today. As the day progressed it got hotter and hotter reaching 45deg C crazy heat, draining all the energy out of you.
    I battled up the 400m climb we had during the day again and again crossing Thomas, I was totally exhausted and with constant cramps in my muscles, despite taking magnesium and drinking, hold tight, 4 liters of water!
    In the afternoon I passed a flowing river and met Thomas there, resting in the little shade there was. When getting up to go, cramps shot through my thighs totally incapacitating me. Thomas had some Gatorade rehydration with him, I took it and and an hour later felt literally reborn. (I have since bought myself such a miracle powder!)
    With a totally diferent muscles, I walked the last 10kms.
    Coming the other way were approx 50 runners that were participating in a, hold tight, 50 mile (80km) trail run through mountainous rocky terain at 45deg centigrade. 1/3 were women!
    What a crazy country, half of the population is totally obese, and the other half is runnung 80km in the mountains at 45 deg centigrade.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Walking before sunrise, the air is ice cold
    The general store of Mount Lagoona (60 inhabitants)The "luxury" French restaurant. For a hiker anything is luxury!View down into the desert below. That is where we will be soon!Walking in the evening light1

    Day 4 heading into Mount Lagoona km77

    May 14, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today again I started walking at sunrise and made it to mount Lagoona by 10am before the heat set in.
    Mount lagoona is 1800meters high and as I climbed up, the vegetation changed with pine trees oaks and maples appearing. I walked as the wind blew through the needles of the pines. What a wonderful world!
    Since then I have been sitting at the "luxury" french restaurant writing this blog . The only "french thing" was probably that they played "je t'aime" from the 60ties on the speaker system, again and again!
    Mobile reception on the trail is mostly non-existant and only available in villages, and then it is a question which provider you have, and it seems that with t-mobile I have the wrong one.
    Many have asked me how walking the trail is. 99% of the time I am walking alone. Despite 50 people starting per day till the end of may, each has their Tempo and distance per day, so everything spreads out and you are mainly alone, and when you do meet someone, they are passing you or you are passing them. A small conversation takes place and off you go again. The tent spots along the trail are quite frequent but usually only for one or two tents, so you never have large gatherings of hikers.
    So one is basically alone. But at least for the moment that feels good, I can walk the speed that my body needs, and stop when it wants to stop.
    After passing the hot period of the day in shade, at 16:00 when all the others went to the camping site, I decided to walk another 10kms and experienced the most incredible feeling of "flow". I was cruising along in cool evening air seemingly effortlessly until it started getting dark, when I discovered a beautiful tent site where I pitched camp.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    At 05:00 the alarm rings, by 05:30 I am on my way!
    Once again no flowing water, so we took this1The water filter process. The top bag has the dirty water.1My body is filthy, but I have no water to wash"Cowboy" camping on top of the empty sisterne

    Day 5, km 101 Km !!!!

    May 15, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Yea! I did it, I crossed the 100km mark today, actually wanted to go further, but my body didn't, and he's the Boss!
    As I walked, the terrain got dryer and dryer, cactusses started appearing and all river beds were without water. At one, I at least found a small pool full of mosquito larvae, but "beggars can't be choosers! This is a new section of the hike where water is going to become a topic. At present I am carrying 3 liters=3kg, I'm going to have to increase this.
    I started off the day with a guy from New Zealand, but as always after 30min he was gone. This is always sad, walking together is a great motivation but I am simply not able to keep up the pace of these young guys.
    The last water site was again without water and so I set up my camp on top of the empty cisterne.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    The alarm rings, it is dawn
    As the sun shows itself, I am already walkingWhat beautyThe new type of flowers, cactiMatt from Seattle. We walked together for 30 minWild sage in full bloom. What a scent!The terrain is getting drier and drierBoiling heat, the soil is so hot I cannot stand still on it2As I join the road, a trail Angel stops and offers me a lift

    Day 6, km 125, Stage coach

    May 16, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    At 05am the alarm called me. I am going to do this every day now. The early morning is the only pleasant time for walking. At 10 the sun is already massacring you. By this time I try to have complete 2/3 of my day's distance. Around noon I look for some shade (not very easy) and rest till 15:00 to then do the last 1/3 of my days hike. It is the only way to survive, and to reduce water consumption.
    Today the trail led lower and lower into dryer and dryer terrain coming down from 1800m to 700m, and the heat got worse and worse. On top of this the front skin of my left foot feels as if it is coming loose. I made a critical mistake by taking barefoot shoes (xero) that are super light but that I have never tested. The trail is extremely rough, strewn with rocks of all sizes. For normal shoes this would be a challenge, for my soft Xero's it is deadly. On top of this comes a ground temperature like boiling sand, which goes straight through the sole.
    By 11:00 I could no longer walk and found shade under a huge rock..At three I hobbled to arrive half dead at the road just as a trail angel arrived and offered me a lift. Oh my god, what a "God send"!
    I am now spending the night at a real stage coach stop on the edge of the desert and will hitch hike to Julian tomorrow morning to buy new shoes and get rid of some more weight. EG. I will send away my gas cooker and half of my clothes.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies

    Snakes

    May 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Snakes are not my "cup of tea". But the nice thing about rattle snakes is that that they warn you with their rattle. But what if he is sleeping and doesn't notice you comming?
    Unlike the South African Puff Adder, who lies in the middle of the path and doesn't move, the rattle snake likes to lie in the bush directly next to the trail. And so it was that I was walking along in the late afternoon, when suddenly, directly next to my ankle it starts to rattle like crazy! I must have jumped 5 meters! There in the bush directly next to my ankle a huge big fat bugger, rattling and rattling. My heart beat was at 309bpm.
    But all this was topped yesterday. At 10:30 the sun started to beat down and I desperately needed a break in the shade. Within 100m there was only one bush big enough to make shade. I spread out my mat and unpacked my bag to have a snack. Then Matt joined me and we chatted, when suddenly out of the bush directly next to him we suddenly hear an incredible rattling. The Rattler was exactly 30cm from his back curled up in the bush. We lept aside. The snake was so pissed off that he continued rattling for another 5 minutes even though we were gone. The problem was how to get my things out. We slowly pulled on my tarpaulin making sure nothing fell off, dragging it 10 meters before repacking my bag. OH MY GOD!!!!

    But talking of snakes., a PCT hiker posted the following pictures of two male snakes fighting over a lady who was waiting in the bushes watching them.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    73 year old deborah, full of hope and optimism
    Deborah's home on an empty property in the desertJulian, a cute "one street town"Hikers waiting under the bridge for the sun to get lessDry terrain and different plants"Dragon" taking a rest in the shade1This guy just didn't do anything, no rattle , no movement, nothing!My new "Laurence of Arabia Outfit to protect my neck and earsIs this one of those stories where the man is beheaded after having "done his thing"My site for the night

    Hitch hike into Julian.

    May 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 27 °C

    This morning I hitch hiked into Julian to buy some new shoes, waiting one hour untill a 73 year old lady gave me a lift on the back of her pick-up. She had to quickly drop off ice at home and so she proudly presented me her newly bought empty property in the desert and Trailer in which she lives with her dog. San Diego has become too expensive she said. I believe in this country there are many older people who no longer can afford an apartment and seek such a solution. But she was not complaining about life and was full of ideas of what trees she wanted to plant. How inspiring!
    After picking up some new shoes, and by god do they make a difference, the trail Angel "proffessor" drove us back to the trail where a whole group of hikers was passing the afternoon under a bridge. I decided to walk. My super new shoes and about 2kg less weight (which I had brought to the post office), led to a really good walking "flow" as I climbed 700m in the afternoon heat.
    Then suddenly directly next to my foot a fat rattler! Despite the fact that I was paying attention and expecting snakes, I had not seen him. I leapt screeching "oh shit!" And he didn't even rattle nor move. He was just sitting there, I think digesting his meal.
    After 15 km and just before dark I pitched tent.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies

    Pain

    May 17, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As my PCT came nearer my greatet fear was that my arthritis of the joints, right knee and left hip would prevent me from walking.
    Already 10 years ago Margot encouraged me to not give up on my knees and do regular low impact sport. This worked well and as long as I move regularly, things are more or less OK.
    Well! The only sports of the last 7 months has been sitting in our SPRINTER as we drove through Arabia. This only aggravated my hip which joined the arthritis club just before we left.
    The first days of the PCT were hell! While the joints did well during the day, at night they "came back to roost" keeping me awake all night. But now, as I walk, both hip and knee are getting better and better, despite the heavy pack and long distances.
    At night I sometimes have to move the joints to relieve the pain.
    BUT I AM WALKING!
    Also the pain in my back from carrying the pack has disappeared as my back has become stronger and stronger.
    Arn't our bodies something incredible!
    Thank you dear body, my best buddy.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    "Honey Bee" from EdinburghHiding from the sun in a tiny holeMy small hole, to hide from the noonday sun

    And on to Barrel Spring

    May 18, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today walking led through extremely dry territory in a glaring sun that had no mercy. The worst was that nowhere was shade. The tiny bushes on steep slopes offered no respite from the incredible sun that shone on us from 06 in the morning till 07 at night. This is for me the worst thing about this hike, not being able to escape from the sun. We measure temperature in the shade, how do we measure temperature in non-stop sun for 12 hours????
    At around 1pm I found a small shaded "slot" in a curve and disappeared into it for two hours to then continue at three, walking until sunset which brought me into a valley with trees called "Barrel Spring" named after a half-barel with a spring running into it. One after the next the hikers lept into the bereits to cool off and wash. Lets not talk about the hygiene of this!
    I also met Honey Bee from Edinburgh today, a game ranger in the castle park on "leave of absence" to do the PCT. This small girl astounded me. In her pack she had a french coffee maker among numerous other utensils!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies

    On to "lost valley spring" km190

    May 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This day was walking paradise with the trail taking me across open prairie fields and then ever higher along a stream lined with ancient trees offering shaded walking. After 3pm we came out of the trees and climbed 700m up to lost spring. But the morning had been so cool that the afternoon in the sun was ok to handle. The spring at 1700m, and source of our water was only a trickle. About 5 hikers set up tent as the sun went down on a totally calm evening.
    And then all hell broke loose!
    I had just gone to be at 07pm when a breeze started this getting stronger and stronger till gale force at around 2am blowing fine sand into my tent. And then it happened, at first "honey bee's tent collapsed, shortly after mine followed with my main tent peg, that had been hammered into rock hard ground, shooting out of the ground like a bullet and hitting the guy behind me who had just started packing his things. Total chaos broke loose with me trying to gather my things, get them into my rucksack and then start walking with headlight at 3am in the morning. I hadn't slept all night, and what followed was a 30km day in searing heat without shade.
    A total nightmare!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    1My magic umbrella!DawnWalking at night

    Nightmare night followed by daymare day

    May 20, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    At 2am the wind ripped my tent out of the ground with me simply holding on to everything I possessed and somehow getting it into my rucksack. The only option was to start walking, with a headlight, which I did. As soon as we started walking the wind dropped! BASTARD!
    A beautiful sunrise followed. And then the sun hit us! By 9am the had heat set in without the slightest possibility to hide all day, on top, no water along the route. It was hell.
    At 5pm I arrived at "Tule spring" the only water source of the day, reddish water in a reddish brown trickle with a silvery shine on the surface. We had no choice, the next water was 16km away.
    As I left, Scott, whose trail name is "trip" for good reasons, asked me why I was not using my sun umbrella and showed me how to mount it. The effect was incredible with I lowering the temp underneath significantly. I walked another 3 km's before finding a calm place for my tent after a gruelling day!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Rising up above the valley, hikers below just waking up
    Trail Angel Mary's place, water and shade

    Hikers cafe, civilization at last, km244

    May 21, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The alarm rang at 04:45, by 05:30 I was walking. As soon as the sun came up my magic umbrella went up and turned the next 20kms and 760m climb into relatively good walking.
    The incredible sun could no longer get at me and I stayed sane.
    And then comming down, I could see the "hikers cafe", and from a distance of 3 km's feel the ice cold beer going down my gullet and the juicy Hamburger between my teeth. My phantasy flourished and reality did not dissappoint!
    Feeling like a king after the second ice cold beer I decided to take my first "ZERO" day to wash my body, wash my clothes, and sleep in a soft bed. A trail Angel drove me up to Idlewild to a cute lodge where I now write these words. Tonight I will sleep, and how!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies

    When the world passes you by

    May 21, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Its great passing by others, you have things under your control, how fast you go by and who you talk with.
    But my reality is different, the world passes me by, constantly!
    These young kids, and the occasional older one, who make up 90% of the hikers all seem to be walking twice as fast as me. It feels like standing on the roadside watching the cars go by.
    THAT IS DEPRESSING!
    Constantly I am reminded of my age, but worse still it is impossible to take up contact with any one, because you never get beyond saying "hi, where do you come from?" And then they are gone!
    That is sad and makes me lonely!
    But yesterday I noticed that some young kids have the same problem. I met "purple". Purple had just walked 50km in one day and when he arrived at "Tule spring" in the afternoon, and was still bouncing like a young springbok. His speed fascinated me and simultaneously angered me because it showed me once again how slow I am. In the discussion that followed he confided that he is lonely because his speed prevents him from ever getting beyond the" hi how are you? where do you come from?"
    Now! That's a new view on the problem!!!!!
    Another lady I spoke with, mentioned: "the trail teaches you to stop comparing yourself to others".
    When will I stop comparing myself to those racing by, and just do my thing? And simply trust that at some stage someone will appear who walks just as fast as me?    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Elisabeth Hofman from the Netherlands on a sabatical from her job
    Don Grey, 67 years from Portland, on a section hikeRivers of water apearing in minutes in the thunderstormAnd then clear skyHigher and higherCamping at 2000m1

    Idlewild and up, up, up we go

    May 22, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    In Idlewild, I found lodging in the cutest of small lodges, with a bathtub into which I sank immediately, not before taking a shower however, because I was black with grime. Even after showering the following bath ended up leaving black rims of dirt. I dont think I have ever been so dirty!
    In exhaustion I fell into bed and slept like an angel.
    The next morning I met Elisabeth from Holland and Don from Portland and had a wonderful Hiker breakfast together. They were both staying on for a second night, I decided to get a ride back to the trail despite the thunderstorm that was brewing. And so it was, one hour in, all hell broke loose. I opened my umbrella and just stood still watching the rain and streams becoming rivers within minutes.
    An hour later the air cleared and I continued climbing up the 700m in a good flow of energy.
    The night was different, a gale force wind developed and temperatures dropped real low. I froze and listened to the tent rattling all night while I mused on how stupid I was not to have stayed another night in Idlewild!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Burnt bushesWhole slopes with burnt treesA charcoaled trunkMy tent embedded amongst low shrubs to protect from the windLooking happy, but bloody cold1Andy and Elke's "emergency ration"Howling wind

    Higher and higher, San Jacinto mountains

    May 23, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Throughout the day I climbed up, then down and then up again. This is a typical PCT Trail which is connecting together various existing trails in various naure reserves and state parks. The result is that you weave around mountains, through valleys and over peaks walking many kms and altitude meters.
    The whole region I walked through must have been victim to a huge fire several years ago, because whole slopes were covered with the burnt stubs of trees and bushes. A sad sight, but also how nature functions with many pine trees only sowing their seeds when fire comes. But when I stop and count the rings of a fallen tree, I notice that the first 50 years the rings were wide indicating good growth and water, then they became narrower and narrower, indicating less water. It seems this region is getting dryer and dryer which might also be the region why the fire could do such vast damage.
    In the afternoon the ice cold wind picked up again, but this time I knew what was needed and luckily found a site embedded among low bushes that prevented the wind from getting at the tent. None the less temps dropped below zero, and despite me wearing all the clothes I possessed I froze bitterly.
    A short video at night records the howling wind over my head.
    To bring light into my life, I opened the "emergency ration" which Andy and Elke Hoyler had given me in Saudi Arabia, before I left for the PCT. What a delight in the howling cold.
    Thank you you two!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    The Terrain is getting steeper and wilder
    Burnt slopes that will probably never carry pines againAs we get closer to 3000m snow patches everywhereSnow covering the trail and making it extremely difficult to followThe pine trees grow in a spiral to make the trunks stronger in the extreme windsHuge fallen trees make hiking even more difficult.It starts getting dark, this site on a slope was the only I foundI placed rocks on the slopes side to stop me slipping downhill in the night

    2900m, just under the San Jacinto peak

    May 24, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    As I get closer to 3000m, the slopes get steeper and wilder, and snow fields start covering the already stony and difficult trail and making navigation really hard.
    It starts getting dark and really cold and I am desperate. I take the only free space on a slope for my tent and make a row of large rocks to prevent me from sliding down the slope.
    Another really cold night at -5degrees without sleep!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Continuous snow cover
    Another huge tree, 150 ringsPhillipe, a portrait photographer from Monpelier, Yu-huan, choreographer from TaiwanThe two cooking their dinner

    Snow fields and lost orientation

    May 25, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    In the mean time I am walking in snow the whole time, on extremely steep, slippery slopes, wet cold feet, and constantly loosing the trail. I am exhausted and a state of panic is rising up in me. I am alone and if I slip here there is no stopping and no one to help me. Again and again I loose the trail and suddenly find myself 50m above or below it and have to battle over fallen trees, huge boulders or wet slippery snow to regain the right location.
    Suddenly I realise that I am seeing the same boulders and trees I saw 10 minutes ago. Oh my god! I am walking in circles! I try to sort myself and notice that the gps is doing the opposite to what it should. I reboot my phone and notice that it is doing an update. But the problem doesn't change. Then suddenly I realise, I have mistakenly crossed over a ridge, this explains why everything is the opposite.
    I am on the verge of panic.
    Then Phillippe and Yu-huan, call to me from 50m away. They are also lost. Together we orientate ourselves and walk together for the rest of the afternoon.
    Yu-huan slips and shoots down the slope to be caught by a tree. We are all exhausted and decide that we must stop.
    At the next free piece of ground we pitch camp. Me again with rocks to not slide down the slope.
    Another Ice cold night follows. This has been the most strenuous day of my life.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    In the distance, the mountains I will be climbing next "Big Bear" rangeI slowly descend back into desert drynessMount San Jacinto, where I come fromThis snake had probably eaten a lizard in the hole and couldn't get out anymore when I touched him wAbsolutely gigantic wind farms document; this valley always has windLooking back at San JacintoIncredible wind gusts bowl me over again and again

    25km and 1800m decent

    May 26, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Today we come off the San Jacinto mountain range down into the desert plain of Palm Springs to then go up the other side into the Big Bear mountains.
    But I am exhausted. The last 4 days have been the most strenuous of my whole life and I need a break. But first we have to descend 1800m and walk 25 km. What initially looks like a three hour hike is actually a 10hour hike in extremely rocky terrain and with a gale force wind whith gusts so strong that I am thrown off the trail twice, thank god in the direction of the mountain. I can hardly walk a straight line. Once again a superlative. I have never experienced such a strong wind. I am sick of superlatives, I want a normal trail again!
    Again, totally exhausted and 10 hours later I arrive at the foot of the mountain hoping to pitch my tent. NO CHANCE! The wind is so strong that my tent would not last 5 minutes. I simply have to get to Cabazon where there is a hotel. The highway is 5 km away. I start walking but am thrown over several times. I am on the verge of tears. Furious, exhausted, sick and tired. Then a car suddenly appears. A toothless Mexican with a warm heart drives me the 15km to the hotel that was recommended to me at 90 dollars a night. At the reception I fall over. 470 USD per night! It is long weekend. I am about to scream!
    Many phone calls later, and 40 taxi kms later I arrived at a motel directly next to the highway (20m) .
    The rest of the night I listened to honking trucks!
    When is this going to end?    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Leaving the highway for the San Bernadino mountains
    The shade structure built by a trail angelSimon from GermanyElisabeth from NetherlandsAndrew from KentuckyLouise from ParisComming down into the river valley.Crossing the river1Happy and satisfied

    Over san Bernadino valley on to Big Bear

    May 28, 2023 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    After two dubious nights in a motel directly next to the highway, an UBER brought me back to the trail.
    We had come down from the San Jacinto mountain range, had crossed the San Bernadino valley, and are now walking up the San Bernadino mountains on the other side, heading towards Big bear. While this also leads up to 3.000m, the terrain is not as steep and dangerous and is therefore less stressful.
    After the first hours, I arrived at a small roof construction that a trail Angel had constructed in cooperation with a wind farm to supply shade to hikers. How nice! And even nicer was that I meet several hikers there that I haven't seen for days: Elisabeth, Simon, Louise, and Andrew. What a nice reunion.
    The path leads higher and higher over a mountain and into a valley with a fast flowing river. This will be our first river crossing among many.
    Once, on the other side, I set up camp near the river bank listening to the roaring of the river all night. This is the most beautiful tent site I have experienced so far, and my heart is filled with gratefulness. I am in the middle of god's garden.
    I take a bath in the river, lying down in the raging stream. WOW! WHAT A FEELING!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    Andrew, my savior, operating the thorns out.
    Taking a bath with all clothes onStacy from Darwin, Australia

    A prickly night

    May 29, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Never a quite moment!
    When I got up last night to have a pee I tripped over a rock and onto a catus. My whole leg full of big thorns and a blood bath. Most of the thorns came out easily but four had broken off and were deeply embedded creating endless pain. The problem is, they dont come out but go deeper and deeper with each movement.
    The next morning, surrounded by hikers, Andrew did "hiker surgery" cutting the holes open with a pocket knife and then going deep inside with very pointed tweezers. Endless time later we had four 1/2 cm thorns out. And I was a sweating wreck miles from nowhere. This was a moment where I seriously considered quitting the trail.
    I was through!
    All this hardship, freezing nights and now this! I had had enough.
    These are the moments where it is so beautiful to have buddies around.
    I carried on!
    We spent the whole day hiking up a river valley, criss crossing the stream. At first I took my shoes off and then reaching the third crossing just walked through. 14 crossings followed! Ever seen feet that have been walking all day in soaked shoes and socks??????    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    This is not grass but an insect
    Burnt slopesAndrew with me at Mission creekA stream in paradise, just right to take a bathThese guys love blocking the way!

    Up, up, up to mission creek

    May 30, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    And up up up we climb back to 2700m and Mission creek. A beautiful site with a spring coming out of a cave.
    A one moment 14 hikers were there, but then decided to hike on. Among them, one called "Trip" a crazy young guy hiking with his girl friend. He took his flute to the spring and played to the water. Hearing this sound drifting through the trees and mountains touched me deeply.
    Such magical moments.
    My body was still battling with my cactus wounds and I decided to call an early stop.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesBald eagle goes a walkingMichael Spies
    A group of czechs taking down their tents
    Magic morning light1Freezing but happy

    Ice cold and beautiful

    May 31, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Last night, as the sun wend down an ice cold fog came down the slopes dropping temps to just above zero. These temperatures followed us the next day. Once again I froze all night and decided that the time has come to get another sleeping bag which I shall order when we get to big bear.
    The other side of ice cold air is that it is totally clear making for beautiful landscapes.    Read more

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